ljluck

Hi all -

I am about to perform a valve adjustment on my 2005 TL. Can you confirm a few things? I know you have to perform this on a cold engine, right? Also, is the firing order 1-4-2-5-3-6?

Lastly - the correct clearance for this is .22 or intake and .30 for exhaust, correct? If standing in front of the engine, the intake valves are closest to you, correct?
This will be my first attempt at doing a valve adjustment, but it seems easy enough. I'd like to think I am pretty handy, but if you feel there is anything additional I should know, please let me know.

Thanks so much!

Jon

P.S. while I am at it, I also own a 2001 MDX - could you tell me the firing order on that, or is it the same? Valve clearances?

SpiderX1016

No, think of it like this. The intake valves are closest to the intake manifold and the exhaust valves are closest to the cats. So the exhaust valves would be closest to you if you were standing in front of the car.

Yes, cold engine. Best to do in the morning after it's been sitting and that's the correct firing order.

ljluck

Thanks so much Spider - this helps. Did I get the valve clearance right?

Do you know the clearances for an MDX?

gideon's_test

The clearances you listed are essentially correct:

Intake 0.20-0.24mm

Exhaust 0.28-0.32mm

gideon's_test

Here is the procedure

ljluck

A big thanks Gideon..!

ljluck

Sorry all - I know I am asking a lot of questions, but is the firing order the same for a 2001 MDX? Valve clearances as well, or different? Just want to be sure I have all the facts before I attempt to do it myself.

Undying Dreams

iTrader: (3)

Post over in the MDX forum. You'd get a faster answer.

ljluck

Out to buy my box wrench to finally do this valve adjustment. I am getting all sorts of info - that it should be a 10mm, 13mm and even a 12mm wrench - could you set it all straight and let me know the size of wrench needed to loosen/tighten the locknuts on the valves?

ljluck

Also does the firing order really matter when doing a valve adjustment? You'd think that you can just turn the engine so the cam lobe is on the opposite side of the rocker arm for each valve you're adusting to get the play you're looking for and then move onto the next. Am I correct, or does doing this in the firing order really matter? If so, why is that?

Thanks again all, Jon

Chad05TL

I tend to read a book or do some "gathering of information" BeFoRe I start a job. ya.

leedogg

How do you know when a valve adjustment is needed?

I hate cars

Mileage or noise. The intakes get noisy so if they get too bad you can do an adjustment before the mileage recommendation. The exhausts do not usually get noisy because they typically get tighter, not looser. Exhausts will eventually get burned when there's not enough clearance so you have to go by mileage even if everything is quiet.

I hate cars

I believe that's the purpose of this thread.

To the OP, I know Spider said it as well but the car needs to sit for a minimum of 12 hrs, I would do 24hrs if possible.

Legend2TL

1) Cold engine, overnight or 12 hours is plenty of time.

2) Intake valves are inside the V or clostest to the center of the motor.

3) Get used to the amount of drag on the feeler gauge when the clearance is correct. The best technique I've found is to

a) loosen the adjuster nut and loosen screw the adjuster a turn.

b) Insert the feeler gauge (try to use a single blade vs using multiple blades).

c) Gently tighten the screw while carefully moving the feeler gauge around.

d) When you cannot pull or push the gauge, slowly turn the screw until the gauge can move with a slight amount of force.

e) before removing the gauge, use a closed six point box end wrench (I believe it is 12mm for the J motors), hold the adjuster in position and tighten the adjuster lock nut.

f) pull and push the feel gauge to make sure it the clerance has not changed.

4) I also follow the instructions since they've done all the work to figure the best postion of the crank to adjuste the valves. You can look at the lobe but it seems also more involved than looking at the crank and cam spoket markings.

5) Good luck

Chad05TL

Well, it sounded like "I'm about to do it", like "I'm about to go out there now".. And by the way, please confirm this and that and specs and everything.. Procedure too.. my gosh. Like I first said, I think it would be a good idea to get a book with the firing order and all the rest of his questions. haha such as the firing order on a 2001 MDX. Just while you're at it.!

Chad05TL

also.. while you're at it.. Can ya scratch my back for me? I dont really wanna reach around. thanks.

I hate cars

You want a reach around? Try your local craigslist.

Chad05TL

*DON'T*

me thinks IHC is still sore. haha

I hate cars

You just go back to belittling people, don't worry about what the adults do.

Chad05TL

I belittle while other ppl say search is your friend. Ppl on here say search is your friend on less important subjects. So I'm not being unreasonable. It's fundamental to get a correct procedure when doing a valve adjustment. So the book.is the best source. I think your just bored and want to engage me. Haha

Chad05TL

Where's your gf? U need mental stimulation.

Legend2TL

I'm pretty sure it's a 12mm, use a 6 point closed box end wrench. I also torque them to spec (~7-10 ftlb) after using the box end to tighten some, then use the torque wrench to tighten. One problem with the torque wrench is it's not possible to use a socket and hold the adjuster in position. If you tighten enough on the box end wrench ot should not be a problem since then the adjuster has enough torque/force holding it in place.

gideon's_test

This makes the job a lot easier:

I'm not 100% certain the 10mm is the correct size, by the way.

Shipit

Here are the procedures form the SM:
Take your time it is not hard job just time consuming, start with cylinders 4,5,6 closest to the front of the car, and my advice is to recheck the first 2 cylinders you did you will have a better feel for what is the right amount of drag.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Why do people keep taunting IHC...he does nothing but come on this forum and help people.

I thought the same thing he did...the OP posted a question and is trying to gather all this information as he goes along. He didn't use a watermelon and tubesock and answers.com to do the adjustment then come back in here and ask why his engine doesn't sound right!?

lilsid112

iTrader: (7)

^ +1, I always enjoy reading and learning from all his posts.

Anyways I just completed my valve adjustment and all mine were out of spec expect 3 of them. All the intakes were tight and most of the exhaust were loose. On the intake side we used the .22mm spacer and .30mm on the exhaust side. I noticed a pretty significant improvement in how the car ideals, performs, and sounds. All in all, just take your time and don't get frustrated.

nfnsquared

Just the opposite of my job: intakes loose, exhaust tight:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...18&postcount=1

And I couldn't tell a bit of difference...

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

interesting...I'm going to have this done at the 105K service, for sure.

subinf

I think I did my adjustment at around 90k. Most were in line with what the specs were but one was pretty far gone. It is getting to be about that time again.

Overall it is a relatively simple process if you just follow the instructions

lilsid112

iTrader: (7)

Your correct, intakes loose and exhaust tight. Sorry I mixed them up, yesterday was a long day.

nfnsquared

OK, yeah, I was wondering... Most of what I've seen so far fits this scenario. Thanks for clarifying.

I hate cars

You missed the Chad meltdown about a year ago. He seriously flipped out unlike anything I've ever seen on the internet before and took a year's vacation probably out of embarassment. It looks like the mullet man is back for now until he flips his lid again. I'll try and find some of his old posts for entertainment.

94eg!

I did my wife's Pilot a few weeks ago. The hardest part is getting into the damn engine. Here is what I found helpfull.

- Exhausts were tight, intakes were loose.

- Get a good angled feeler gauge with a shit-ton of different blades. I like the Craftsman 40802 26-leaf offset gauge cause it has one of EVERY SAE thickness from .005" to .030": http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2000P?prdNo=10

- Yes it's fine to use the SAE thickness specs instead of metric.

- After making an adjustment and locking it down, re-check with the next gauge larger to be sure it won't fit (without force).

- When you have 2 or 3 blade options that are "within spec", use the thinnest one on intake valves, and the middle or fattest one on exhaust valves. This will buy you more time before your next valve adjustment.

- Your valve lash specs are on one of the stickers under the hood. You never have to worry about loosing them.

- Forget making adjustments in perfect firing order. Just do one complete cylinder head at a time. This avoids possibly dropping dirt or anything into the other cylinder head while your not paying attention.

- Pull the rubber plug on the front cam gear cover to see which cylinder is at TDC. There is an arrow on the cover and numbers on each spoke of the cam gear.

- As you turn the crank with your ratchet, the point where the crank gets loose is always TDC for a given piston. I almost always spin the crank a little too much. It's okay if you go a little bit past the TDC mark though. The exhaust valves don't start opening for many degrees past. It's not a good idea to turn the crank backwards to try and line the mark up on the cam cover perfectly.

nfnsquared

I found a cheapo non-angled set at O'reilly's for $7. I removed the 4 blades from the set and bent them myself. Worked great.

Yep, also know as the "go, no go" method.

Yeah, I wondered about doing that: setting the exhaust to loosest spec and intake to tightest spec, but decided to just go middle of the road. But in spec is in spec. I may do that at 210K

94eg!

I really like that idea. Probably wouldn't be ideal for me since I have 4 cars, and they are all different.

Legend2TL

^ I use a SK 6 point flare box end wrench. It is a 10/12mm combination, the one side of far wall has enough space to allow a screwdriver shaft to pass through. I've been using it since the 80's, one of my better tool purchases.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

sub'd....am thinking of keeping the procedure in mind when i do my build....thanks all

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Matt, I'd seriously appreciate that...always love reading others' meltdowns as I'm not immune to them myself.

Hmmm...83K...I'm getting close to needing all these maintenance items. I wish some you gurus were local, I don't mind paying, I mind trusting the tech.

Joelito2983

Is there any other gains to this than engine noise that you can have... my car has 68k and i really dont seem to hear a loud noise except what i think is the belt tensioner thats whats making a little bit of chirping noise.

My car is not a DD , so my car sees me probably once a weak...