Silva95teg

I have a 2006 Base and i found a local set of Type S headlights on craigslist for a good price so i picked them up. After getting them home i realized the Marker lights would not plug into my harness.

I came on here and searched and never really found out how anyone did it besides cutting and soldering a new harness, or using silicone to secure their 7443 holder in the Type S headlight.

I did not want to modify my stock harness and don't like the idea of silicone so i made these.

First i cut the oem 1157 holder from the S in half using a dremel cutting disk :


Next I used a small sanding attachment to smooth out the inside :


Then i removed the seal and sanded the tabs off the oem 7443 holder and inserted it into the 1157:


Put some epoxy between the two flat sections and you have a sealed oemish bulb holder that will use your original harness and fit the Type S headlight:


To finish it you will need a set of these 7443NA :

LoveMyTL-S

Very nice. Thanks for sharing.

Silva95teg

No prob, hope it helps someone out.

Fresh23

iTrader: (2)

NICE! You defiantly helped me out I was going to cut the wires. Thanks!

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

This is for the turn signal right?

Silva95teg

Yeah, oh I should mention because I am in Canada we already have the drl in 06. So the only thing different was the turn signal.

Chad05TL

Did your car come with factory fog lights in Canada?

What DRL bulb came with your factory setup? 9005 or 9006?

What bulb did you use in the TLS headlights? 9005?

The wattage on the 9005's are 65watts. That as much wattage as many fog lights. But someone said a fog light bulb would melt the shroud. true?

Thanks.

Sutitan

base TL's foglights will melt shrouds on a type-s



Either run LED's or never turn on your fog lights. You've been warned.

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

Never needed to do anything to mine. Wrapped some painters/masking tape around it and it has lasted over a year with bumps 24/7 where I drive.

Chad05TL

Sutitan obviously has had some melting and heat issues. Every resource I can find says to use a 9005 bulb for DRLs in a TLS. Those 9005s are 65w. I compared that to a 9006 at pep boys and the 9006 is 55w. I have a helms book and it illustrates on my car the fog light circuitry and the Canadian DRL. Both the DRL and the fog light are powered up by the same relay and they use the same 20 amp fuse from.the "underhood fuse box". The only thing different is where the switching pin on the relay is connected. For drls, the relay goes to pin H3 on the relay control module, but on fog lights, the relay is connected to H4. So the switching on & off is different but the power source is the same. Same fuse. Same relay position too. That's why it would be tricky to connect both at the same time, but the capability appears to be there to support both drls and fogs simultaneously. The tricky part would be to find a location for another relay and electronically we don't want to overlead any circuit. But my guess is, fog lights should never be on when drls are on. So wouldn't it be cool if H3 and H4 are already setup to work in this manner? Just 1 or the other but not both... Anyway, testing would be required for that part, but I can tell you from what I read on the helms book, and comparingthe bulb wattage and swing the same fuse connection for power, everything looks like the factory DRL bulb will generate more heat than a fog light bulb in the same location.

I see your evidence, but you might have had another.problem somewhere. Maybe you have the wrong fuse in your underhood fuse box? See I don't know everything you did. And btw, painters masking tape is not a heat shield barrier ime I checked so, in my opinion TheChamp could go without the masking tape and be fine. I would like to hear from more people on this subject.

I can post helms schematics later if interested.

One other thing, the factory 05 foglights have plastic all the around it. I see no melting of that plastic. Is there something different about the plastic on the TLS? Something sounds fishy here. Nothing is adding up to meltage. If the fog lights cause melting in the TLS headlight then there has to be an identifyable reason.




Sutitan: I have another question for you. Is that picture of a part from a Honda OEM headlight or DEPO or another knock-off?


If it is a real Honda part, then the only reason I could see why it may melt would be because maybe the 9006 Bulb is longer than the factory 9005 DRL bulb. If it is longer then it may be closer to the rim that melted. Otherwise, the current of the both circuits are the same, or at least, they are fused at the same amperage. That is, the Canadian DRL (presumably a 9005, no one answered my 1st Ques.) and the US 9006 Fog light are tied to the same fuse. And actually the TLS DRL 9005 bulb should burn hotter than the 9006 because it may draw a little more current since it is a 65w bulb instead of the 55w 9006 Foglight bulb.

Chad05TL

swing = using . my phone tries to autocorrect.

Silva95teg

The reason that ring is melting is because it was not designed as a fog light on the 07-08. I doubt that the light output is even useable in fog. When you are running a 9006 at full power it is generating too much heat. Wen a 9005 is being run as a DRL it is ran at usually a lower voltage, the bulb is probably only seeing 6 volts so it is dimmer and not generating as much heat.

Chad05TL

"probably seeing 6 volts" is guess work. Can you back that up?

And saying "its not designed" is vague.. and you may be thinking that a fog light has more wattage but in this case it doesn't because the DRL is rated higher and its tied to the same fuse. So,I have more proof so far that the voltage is same because of the fuse location and it has the ability to carry the same amount of current because the fuses are the same 20 amps. FYI an AMP is directly related to heat dissipation. And evidence shows the ability to have more amps and heat using DRL's because the voltage sources is likely the same because of the fuse location and both fuses are 20 amps. So, if a bulb is rated at a high wattage, like the DRL, then odds are it will pull more current because normally the voltage remains constant. Voltage times current = Watts.

This is the design. I am looking at the design.

If you want to test it.. With your DRL's on, and the bulb installed, set a voltmeter in parrallel with the drl bulb. That is, poke the positive lead on the wire going to the fuse.. And put the negative lead on a ground. That will tell you the voltage drop over the DRL. And if you want to meaure current through the DRL, put an ammeter in series with the dRL. You will have to unplug the DRL. Probably tricky because of the socket. 1 has to remain connected while you put in series the ammeter with the other wire. If you can do that, then you can multiply the measured volts times the measured current.. and that will tell how many watts of power is being disippated into heat.

Chad05TL

Ohms law: Power = Volts X current

Your best theory:
a 9005 65 watt DRL bulb with 6v as a source equates to 10.8 amps worth of heat dissipation

05 Factory Foglights:
55watts divided by 12v = 4.5 amps of heat dissipation.

Again, DRL's burn hotter.

Here is another question for Sutitan: Did both rings melt? or only 1? And were the bulbs burned out? Or do the bulbs still work?

i'm still trying to figure out why this 1 ring melted.

In some regard this exact senario does not apply to what I am doing because I am extending the foglight connection down to the bottom. But when I connect DRL's it does matter what I fuse it at and I would like to connect 9005's.

I think my analysis is correct even without measuring.. Because all we need is Watts and "assumed" volts to calculate current. And I picked the worse case voltage levels in the math. Remember, the fuse is not a current source. The fuse will pop if Voltage drop is large enough over a 65w load so that the load pulls more than 20 amps. It would pop the fuse in that senario. So you cannot use a constant current. The only thing is constant is Volts and the load (watts in this case)

Chad05TL

Since the bulbs wants to juice up to 65watts, it will draw as much current as it will based on the voltage source and ohms law. So, that is what determines current. If a bulb has a short circuit inside, it may burn brighter and hotter but usually it will pop the fuse soon if that happens, if not melt something first. just depends.

Silva95teg

Sorry i don't think that is how bulbs work. The filament in the bulb is in essence a resistive load. That resistance will change slightly depending on the filament temperature though. If voltage is reduced and current is = to voltage/resistance the current is also reduced. I could go out and measure the voltage to the DRLs but it is raining like crazy here. Like most drl systems though they probably use a duty cycle to switch the power on and off rapidly resulting in a lower voltage to the bulb.

If a bulb has a short inside it will burn much hotter but only for a second until the filament burns up and creates an open. That is because the resistance goes way down and thus the current goes way up.

As far as mentioning the design of the headlights, acura only put those rings on the lights that had only DRL operating in that location. I just don't think they intended anyone to operate a "fog light" there. If they did they would have not moved the fogs to the lower bumper.

Chad05TL

I agree. I found last night the foglight harness has the bulbs in parrallel. Wheresas the newer DRL harness has the bulbs in series. Same source but they are wired to the source differently. You could rewire it but I don't have a use for it.

But I did need to know that the drls are in series so when I hook up mine, they work right.

It's best to not assume the drls are actually running at 65 watts unless we measure the out of circuit resistance of the drl bulb and also measure the voltage at the socket with the key on. With the voltage, which is probably 6 because it is halted between both drls, and the resistance of the drl bulb, we could calculate a real value for current draw and power dissipation.

Basics:
Series circuits, both loads add together to get a total resistance.
Resistance is higher in a series circuit and current is reduced.

In parrallel, total resistance is lower and voltage of each bulb/load equals the source.

Chad05TL

I went through some calculation and assigned an arbitrary 5 ohms to each bulb so I can get a comparison of the wattage on each bulb. I posted a pic in my albums but acurazines albums dont display properly for IE8 and 9 I think.
https://acurazine.com/forums/album.p...ictureid=56878

Anyway, the result is when the bulbs are in parrallel they will burn 4 times as hot as when they are in series. This is not because they are "foglight lights" in name, its because in the 05 models, the bulbs are wired in parrallel. And actually, the "fog lights" are only 55w bulbs so the would not burn as hot as a 65w DRL IF they were in series.

When I get home later I can post up the picture from an external website.
And my calculation does a little bit of handwaving and estimates the same resistance for the 55w bulb and the 65w bulb. I did that just for simplicity sake in comparing both bulbs.

And unlike the reason I said above that "there is plastic all the way around this bulb and nothing has melted", well, while the housing may be more protected, the little plastic ring is right smack dab in front of the bulb that is burning 4 times hotter than what it should. So no wonder it melted.

Chad05TL

The 5 ohm value and the current that I derived from the 5 ohms is only a generic number I used to calculate the difference in power between these bulbs in series vs. parrallel. So the ohm load is not actual, and the current is not actual. Instead, it only represents an arbitrary number that I used to estimate the difference in power/heat dissipation between these 2 circuits which take the voltage and current from the same source. The calculation yields that fog lights burn 4 times hotter than DRL's, whatever the ohm load or current draw actually is. And the reason I gave both cases a 5 ohm load is because both DRL and Foglight circuits use a 55w bulbs or a 65w bulb. So, odds are the ohm load of these 2 bulbs are real close. So, just for grins, I set them equal to each other and estimated a "real" power output based on an arbitrary ohm load which I assigned to both, rather than assuming they are max wattage which is 65w and 55w. Because 10w difference is not enough to cause melting. So, I knew it had to be something else.

pay attention to that total wattage as a relationship to the other, not the actual current or ohm load itself, because as I just said, I assigned an arbitray number to perform calculations.. the key point is the difference between both wiring styles.

Rt = total resistance of the circuit
It = total current of the circuit.
use ohms law for all calculations.
P= power
E = volts
I = current.

Formula's:
E = I * R
P = I^2(R)
P = I * E (PIE!! haha)

The rest is algebra

Chad05TL

it works.. 9005 bulbs.. those are 65w bulbs. Higher power than the 55w 9006 fog lights..

DesertMistTL

iTrader: (2)

just did this. good idea! thanks.

A.Sensation

I did this earlier today and I didn't need bondo. I used the seal from the 7443 between the 7443 socket and 1157 bulb holder. Then put the 1157 seal on top of that so it's doubled covered. And yes some will say "Ohhh, he should've bondo-ed!!" But trust me, the socket is as tight as can be. Nothing in, nothing out!