cjj2d

What's the process for not having to drive the car between each drain and fill? the link provided is not working.

thanks!

JohnCollins

Here is a good link. It's just the first page if you want to print it. Don't print the whole thing.

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/p0420/B080100.pdf

cjj2d

Just completed a 3x3 ATF change.

I had a bit of a freak out for a minute. I followed the instructions on that link and while I had the car up on jacks and went to run it through the gears like it said, it never says to turn the VSA off, so when I applied the gas peddle once it hit second gear at about 1500 rpm, it dropped back down and applying more to the gas peddle did nothing, and the ! light was flashing. I thought I had some how done something wrong, but pulled out the manual and looked it up.

If you follow the instructions on how to perform the 3x3 without driving it while up on stands, make sure to press the VSA button before cycling through the gears, etc....

Took it for a test drive and it is shifting smooth as silk. I hope this helps the issue I was having, but only time will tell. Every once in a while the transmission would drop to a lower gear and not shift up for a bit. This has only happened 2 or 3 times, so I hope this helps.

JohnCollins

Glad it worked! I've been driving mine this week, will do the second of the 3X3 on Saturday. I feel better about just driving it a bit rather than all that spinning of the wheels on the jacks. Probably not necessary, but I'll have it done over 3 weekends.

JohnCollins

Second drain/fill today with 2 X Lightweight Racing and 1 Racing ATF, Red Line. Went much better this time (see post #160), since I had experience from last week. Took maybe half an hour this time.

Same tips as before, the Rhino Ramps are just dandy, no need to bust your ass jacking up the whole car unless you enjoy that sort of thing. If you are level front/back and side/side, you'll get your 3 quarts out on ramps. I measured in a milk jug again today and got just about 3 qts again, maybe a tad more. I will not be fiddling with jack stands for this job, ever. Put my 3 quarts in and I have fluid right between the two holes on the dipstick after two cycles of this.

The fuse box still did not move much but I detached a square thing from the side over the fill bolt using a flathead screwdriver. made it easier to get the bolt back in, but it is still kind of fiddly. The washer gets cockeyed on it and it can be hard to thread. But with the little extra room and knowing where I wanted it this time it only took me 5 minutes to get it back in, not the half hour it took me last week. Everything underneath was fine.

I must sound like a total klutz to you mechanics, but I think today went much better. If you are not a car guy, don't be afraid of this. If I can do it, anyone can!

I'm trying to work up the nerve to replace the tranny filter. I still can't figure out if it is necessary and am wondering why the manual does not call for it. But I might. My biggest fear is the filter coming apart on me. Car runs and shifts great. Last X3 next weekend, 1 Racing, 1 Lightweight Racing, 1 D4, Red Line.

Project 04TL

is dw1 the same thing as z1?

JohnCollins

No. Apparently Z1 was total crap, and Honda discontinued it. DW1 is their new stuff which replaced Z1.

But why use that? Why not just go to Red Line or Amsoil? I decided to follow the advice given here and do that rather than upgrade from crap to what might be slightly improved crap. Get the good stuff.

Project 04TL

this?
http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?code=ATFQT-EA

or

one of these?
http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=9

MikeTC

Are there instructions or pics for tranny filter replacement? Thanks in advance.

MikeTC

I did a 1X3 last week thanks to this post. I have a 06 with 75K mi; some observations during my drain:

1. Did not have to move the fuse box to get to the fill bolt.
2. Did not have to use breaker bar at all, just a 1/2" ratchet for fill bolt and a 3/8" ratchet for drain bolt.
3. I just jacked up one side of the front to loosen the drain bolt then lower the car and remove the bolt by hand and let the fluid drain into a oil pan that fits between the floor and the tranny's drain hole.

BTW, my fifth posts.

JohnCollins

Here:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/c-036-diy-transmission-filter-replacement-pics-787078/


For some reason, Acura does not recommend changing it. I have not done it. just providing the link. Not sure I'll bother. third X3 change for me today.

MikeTC

Thanks John. I should have check the 3G Garage. Maybe I get to it one day...

JohnCollins

Yep, the Garage!

You don't think I remember where this stuff is, do you?

teeeejaay

Hey quick questions guys, super noob with this maintenance stuff. My car has 120,000 miles on it now and I do my oil change every 3-4k miles.
Just got my 105k kit from Actl05 and it comes with (3) 1 qt ATFDW-1
Should I just get 6 more qt's and do the 3x3?
I don't know when the previous owner did any of these fluid changes.
What would be the best fluid to use with my miles? This one or that Z-1
Also would I just do the normal 3 quart every 7-15k miles? (IDK i see multiple different people posting their miles they do the 3 quarts of new ATF)
Thank you guys in advance!

TLlove07

Very very helpful thread. Going with the Z1 just because I always like to put OEM parts/fluid if possible.

Thanks for the help. Video was great also. Very helpful!,,

JohnCollins

Well, it's your car. But why would you go with an inferior fluid just because it's OEM?

I'm not a gear head, but I've read a ton of these threads and NOBODY with more knowledge about the subject has posted that the OEM stuff is anywhere near as good as Redline/Amsoil or other premium fluid. Why would you want to use an inferior fluid?

Just curious.

sho423

So I need to get 9 quarts total to get a thorough ATF drain?

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

if you want to do a 3x3, then yes.

hybrid0175

I did my trans fluid change today. I bought 9 quarts so I could do 3x3. However, I ended up doing only two times. The first drain, 4 quarts came out; replaced with 4. The second, 3 (and about a pint) was replaced. My question is, is it "ok" for more than 3 quarts of fluid to come out? At the end I did check the level and it's ok. I guess I'll settle with just two changes. Thanks in advance.

hybrid0175

BTW, the car is 08 TL-S.

05_NBP_TL

iTrader: (1)

It is OK for more than 4 qts. to come out. Just depends on how level the car is when draining the fluid out. As long as you put back what came out, and everything checks out fine when confirming the level on the dipstick, you are good to go. When I done my drain/fill I got around 3.5qts drained at a time.


ps. and two drain/fills will be fine until you decide to do another 1x3. After my initial 3x3, I do a 1x3 yearly

jaredb03

Anyone know what the range is between to high and to low on the fluid? I'm slightly high(about 1/4 inch above full) but not sure how much to drain out. My other car is a Saab and i know the difference between high and low is a very small amount like a few ounces.

Knight Rider 357

I was about to do a trans fluid change, drain 3 qts, put in 3 qts in a 2008 TL. I have been having a tough time with the bolt, it is in the worst location and I can't get any leverage to make it budge plus I am worried if I put too much pressure I am going to slip up and hit the fuse box which is in the way and cut wires. I don't want to go out and get more tools to try to get better leverage.

Could I just put the transmission fluid in the transmission dipstick hole instead of the fill hole/bolted hole or will that create some kind of problem? I will have to make a funnel with a small enough hole which I should be able to do and it will take longer but I am getting tired of trying to mess with the bolt. I have put transmission fluid in the dipstick hole before on my other car, it had a bigger hole though.

Thanks

rbailey86

question

the tranny fluid was done 30k ago but because i am the new owner id like to do it

can you fill it through the dip stick using a funnel? i did that with my RSX

rbailey86

also to add to last post

i believe there is probably z-1 fluid in there is it ok if i do a 1X3 drain and fill to put the DW-1?

the fluid is red and not dirty at all but its slightly low so i want to do a drain and fill

rbailey86

should have read the entire thread before commenting

answered my own questions

will be doin a 1X3 since the fluid looks red and clean for peace of mind since i just bought it

much easier to fill through the dipstick tube!

Knight Rider 357

Thank you, just wanted to make sure you can put the fluid in the dipstick hole before I drained it.

Unfortunately they had to make the trans bolt circular so I had no tool to fit around it to loosen it. It is of course also way overtightened. It was so overtightened that when I put a socket wrench head attachment in the square opening which fit, the metal head snapped off inside the square opening of the transmission bolt when I gave it my all to try to loosen the bolt so I had a chunk of metal inside the square head. After a lot of swearing and throwing things I took it to Pep Boys the next day and got them to loosen the bolt and remove the metal piece.

Taking those plastic caps off the plastic tray under the transmission bolt is not fun either and waste of time, I broke one and mangled another one. Why do they have to make it so difficult? Just use 10mm bolts.

rbailey86

guys I am a quarter of an inch below the low line, is that about half a quart?

rbailey86

i added half a quart


it is 2 millimeters above the fill line...im not draining it


should be ok

quantum7

Ditto on the clips....everytime I remove the plastic shield to get to the drain I break or butcher another clip...buy a few to replace.

I also like the fill from the dipstick method shown above. Very quick and easy. No need to try to get to the filler nut under the fuse box or buy the washer for the fill nut.

2Quik

Question, when preforming ATF drain and refill x 3 can you just jack up the front of the car when running through the gears, the car won't take off since it'a front-wheel drive right? or does the whole car have to be jack up before you run through the gears?

polobunny

Correct. However the procedure calls for having the car level to drain and fill the proper amounts.

Make sure to use wheel chocks on the rear wheels. Not only is jacking up the front dangerous without them, but switching gears even with the wheels in the air can shake it enough to make the car move if the chocks aren't put properly.

2Quik

I don't mind jacking the whole car up. I have just done it the old fashion way; drain, fill, drive it, park, neutral, reverse X 3. If anyone has done it like i described please let me know which way is best.

polobunny

I myself prefer to do it the "old fashioned" driving way. With like a good while in between so it's thoroughly mixed. First time I did a drain and fill of 3 qts the car felt brand new for a 30 minutes + drive. That alone makes me feel like just switching the gears a few times is not enough to mix the old ATF with the new ATF.

2Quik

Cool deal, i will stick with the old fashion way.
Thanks for the reply's.

2Quik

Sh**t i broke the plastic clip retaining screws of the shield under the transmission. Any one know the part number for these? i have 2004 acura tl. thanks.

I found these, but not sure if they will work... anyone?

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...nid=409&jpid=0

Them damn things are hard to remove.
I saw pic of a tool, does anyone know what this tool is called?

polobunny

Bring one to your local parts store, they got a bunch and they'll be able to sell you a pack of 10 or similar.
The Honda clips as jokingly called are prone to drying and then breaking. Not a big deal, they're readily available.

quantum7

I ordered these from Amazon for my 2007 TL and they fit the underside cover for the transmission drain area. I always end up breaking these when I work on car, so having cheap replacement is just easier than trying to remove them carefully.


I think it is 40 of them for less than $5....I don't worry about the tool...just pop them off and replace if they break. Much cheaper and less hassle than buying the tool and trying to fight with them.

imJimmyToo

Very helpful, shifts much smoother now!

4drturbo

Why is it so specific on when to check the transmission fluid? It says that you have to check it after the car has warmed up where the fans come on and then it needs to be checked at 60-90 seconds. What happens if you check it at 132 seconds on a flat surface? Will the reading be off? lol I just drained it for the 2nd time. About 800 or so miles since the 1st time. Mine is right in the middle of the high and low, maybe to the low side a tad. I should be fine but I might add a tiny bit in there. 1st time I drained it 3.5 qts came out. This time a bit over 3 quarts came out. I just pout what came out into an old 5 qt jug so I know how much to put in.