The RR Journals: ATF drain and refill 3G Garage #C-012
06-13-2009, 05:47 AM
#81
practicing nihilist
I'm gonna drop it off the lift and take it for a spin each time. IMO, I wouldn't feel comfortable even starting a Geo Storm on a set of jack stands.
06-13-2009, 11:51 AM
#82
the 3x drain and fill can actually go quicker using ramps instead of jack stands. i just remove the plastic shield on the bottom of the car, 3/4 tighten all of the bolts and drive around the block and then back to my garage where the ramps and tools are waiting after the first change.
06-15-2009, 11:39 PM
#83
I am sorry for asking this as it might sound stupid question but what do they mean by making sure it goes into torque convertar lockup?
For example: 5. Make sure that the trans shifts through all the forward gears and goes into torque converter lockup.
For example: 5. Make sure that the trans shifts through all the forward gears and goes into torque converter lockup.
06-16-2009, 10:18 AM
#84
Ak Ting Up
If your comfortable doing this, you can drive your car onto the ramps, then jack up the passenger rear (if you have a big enough floor jack). This is how I did the flush. Jacking up the passenger rear 'leveled' the car and tilted it toward the drivers side providing a slightly better drain. I got 3.8 quarts per drain. Yes, I measured.
06-16-2009, 12:20 PM
#85
If your comfortable doing this, you can drive your car onto the ramps, then jack up the passenger rear (if you have a big enough floor jack). This is how I did the flush. Jacking up the passenger rear 'leveled' the car and tilted it toward the drivers side providing a slightly better drain. I got 3.8 quarts per drain. Yes, I measured.
06-17-2009, 08:58 AM
#86
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Sorry guys, it might be a stupid question, but what is going to happen if I use regular flash machine instead of drains/refils? I know a few people who has done that and everything has been fine since that. They did it in this way because they did not know and mehanics in private garages did not know either, they just did it. Honda recommends many things which majority of people never follow and everything is OK. May be it is one of this marketing recommendations?
06-17-2009, 10:12 AM
#87
Sorry guys, it might be a stupid question, but what is going to happen if I use regular flash machine instead of drains/refils? I know a few people who has done that and everything has been fine since that. They did it in this way because they did not know and mehanics in private garages did not know either, they just did it. Honda recommends many things which majority of people never follow and everything is OK. May be it is one of this marketing recommendations?
It might be more of a pain in the ass, but I'd change it they way Acura says to change it, 3x3.
06-17-2009, 11:19 AM
#88
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Use of flush machine can lead to tranny failure
06-17-2009, 11:42 AM
#89
Given the fact the trans on the TL's isn't known for being robust to start with, and the fact that Acura specifically recommends aginast it, I wouldn't do it on these cars.
06-17-2009, 12:24 PM
#90
Hey, I just got 10 quarts just in case and I am doing this 3x3 method.
I know I need to make sure the tranny shifts through all gears and my question is it has to go into torque convertar lockup? Do I need to do any thing to make the tranny go into torque convertar lockup?
I know I need to make sure the tranny shifts through all gears and my question is it has to go into torque convertar lockup? Do I need to do any thing to make the tranny go into torque convertar lockup?
06-20-2009, 07:45 AM
#94
practicing nihilist
I don't think Amsoil has any dealers. From the searches I did, you can only buy direct from them.
I did 3x3 flush and filter change this week. Not a bad job. Got a little exhausting with all the lifting and setting on stands. Filter wasn't that bad but be aware of a washer than will fall loose on the filter side of the fluid pressure line (the one that looks like a fuel line). Filter wa just as black as fluid. Car was really needing this.
I went for a quick drive each time being sure to hold all gears for a good amount of rpm's, then did a healthy reverse run when I got back from trip.
Honestly, can't say I notice a dramatic difference, bit smoother when shifting for comfort. I do feel there's an added level of protection with the Amsoil, though. The parts guy didn't even know we had a replaceable filter which makes me skeptical of the entire dealer tranny service procedure. This is a must DIY if you want comfort in knowing it was done right.
I did 3x3 flush and filter change this week. Not a bad job. Got a little exhausting with all the lifting and setting on stands. Filter wasn't that bad but be aware of a washer than will fall loose on the filter side of the fluid pressure line (the one that looks like a fuel line). Filter wa just as black as fluid. Car was really needing this.
I went for a quick drive each time being sure to hold all gears for a good amount of rpm's, then did a healthy reverse run when I got back from trip.
Honestly, can't say I notice a dramatic difference, bit smoother when shifting for comfort. I do feel there's an added level of protection with the Amsoil, though. The parts guy didn't even know we had a replaceable filter which makes me skeptical of the entire dealer tranny service procedure. This is a must DIY if you want comfort in knowing it was done right.
06-28-2009, 05:53 PM
#95
Finally got around to doing the flush this morning. Had some help but it was actually quite simple.
I dunno, but I did.
Lol I was wondering about this too, I think like others said its better if you drive the car, but Im a lazy bum so I ran it through the gears while the car was in the air. I just followed what it says on the pdf file. It was kind of scary, definitely didnt feel safe doing it.. so yeah Im not gonna recommend doing this. As far as going through the torque converter, Ive no idea but I figure if it ran through all gears its good.
I ended up using 8 quarts (about 2.7qt per fill - I measured how much was drained and added that amount). Right now the fluid level is a bit over the top dot. Looks like the manual states you should drain it until it is inbetween the two dots. I dont think Im going to, dont think it would hurt anything? I didnt change the filter though. Should I've done that? Is it pretty easy and where did you buy the filter?
I dunno, but I did.
I ended up using 8 quarts (about 2.7qt per fill - I measured how much was drained and added that amount). Right now the fluid level is a bit over the top dot. Looks like the manual states you should drain it until it is inbetween the two dots. I dont think Im going to, dont think it would hurt anything? I didnt change the filter though. Should I've done that? Is it pretty easy and where did you buy the filter?
06-28-2009, 06:03 PM
#96
NedShneebly did you replace your filter? This is what I get from google:
"This filter is not replaceable during normal maintenance. Replacement of this filter requires removal and disassembly of the transmission."
"This filter is not replaceable during normal maintenance. Replacement of this filter requires removal and disassembly of the transmission."
06-28-2009, 10:06 PM
#97
practicing nihilist
it's a paper type element and not very hard. The pressure line that feeds into the filter is a bit of a pain cause it doesn't want to move very much. And the spring inside the filter housing that keeps tension on the element is a bit sketchy. replaced on the final fill.
my dipstick is showing a tad over the top dot, too. not worried about it.
07-30-2009, 09:32 AM
#98
Cruisin'
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Just did this last night. Thanks for the writeup! The only problem I had was I underestimated how fast the fluid would come out the bottom... what a mess.
I've only had this done once before on my 06 with 60K miles... I'm definitely going to make this a part of my regular maintenance... maybe every other oil change.
I've only had this done once before on my 06 with 60K miles... I'm definitely going to make this a part of my regular maintenance... maybe every other oil change.
08-03-2009, 04:22 PM
#99
Pro
Just had a quick question. I did my 3X3 over the weekend with Z1... Then checked the level after and I am exactly at the bottom dot on the dipstick. How much Z1 should I add to get to the middle of the dipstick? I'm thinking i should go with 1/4 of a quart. Since the drain and refill is supposed to technically be 3.2 quarts as stated in the manual. Anyone?
08-03-2009, 05:17 PM
#100
Drifting
iTrader: (13)
horsecrap. I ordered the filter parts from my dealer and the parts guy didn't even know it existed.
it's a paper type element and not very hard. The pressure line that feeds into the filter is a bit of a pain cause it doesn't want to move very much. And the spring inside the filter housing that keeps tension on the element is a bit sketchy. replaced on the final fill.
my dipstick is showing a tad over the top dot, too. not worried about it.
it's a paper type element and not very hard. The pressure line that feeds into the filter is a bit of a pain cause it doesn't want to move very much. And the spring inside the filter housing that keeps tension on the element is a bit sketchy. replaced on the final fill.
my dipstick is showing a tad over the top dot, too. not worried about it.
08-03-2009, 06:33 PM
#101
Senior Moderator
25450-RAY-003 ELEMENT (ATF)
#7
#7
Last edited by fsttyms1; 08-03-2009 at 06:35 PM.
08-03-2009, 06:36 PM
#102
Senior Moderator
Though there is a NON serviceable filter in the trans
08-23-2009, 11:48 PM
#108
I fixed the glitch
This thread came in handy today. I didn't use Amsoil but I used Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. The results were the same as those who used Amsoil. It took me 2 hours overall but I was taking my time.
Great thread!
Great thread!
01-16-2010, 07:46 PM
#109
2003 TL-S w/Navi NBP
Sorry to resurrect this, but instead of doing the 3x3 Amsoil change, I'm only doing 3qts for starters. I will do more changes over time...just not all at once. Okay to mix with Z1?
02-18-2010, 04:10 PM
#110
6th Gear
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This thread was amazing, thanks a lot guys
I've got a 99 TL and the splash guard doesn't cover the drain bolt so it's not necessary to take it off. It is a little rusty however, so it's been a bitch to take off.
I went to the dealership and mentioned that I was changing my tranny fluid. They said I only needed 3 quarts and that when taking the drain bolt off to;
A). Take a look at the bolt, which is magnetic and will attract any wear and tear.
B). If there is a lot of sludge attached and the tranny has been acting up you may want to take it in.
C). Clean the bolt up before putting it back in
The dealer didn't mention the 3X3 so I am going to do it the one time and change it more often
Thanks again for the help
I've got a 99 TL and the splash guard doesn't cover the drain bolt so it's not necessary to take it off. It is a little rusty however, so it's been a bitch to take off.
I went to the dealership and mentioned that I was changing my tranny fluid. They said I only needed 3 quarts and that when taking the drain bolt off to;
A). Take a look at the bolt, which is magnetic and will attract any wear and tear.
B). If there is a lot of sludge attached and the tranny has been acting up you may want to take it in.
C). Clean the bolt up before putting it back in
The dealer didn't mention the 3X3 so I am going to do it the one time and change it more often
Thanks again for the help
02-21-2010, 03:40 PM
#111
I'm going to borrow a jack stand from a friend and try a 3 quart drain and fill. Can someone post a picture of the "aero/splash shield" that needs to be moved and which bolts to loosen to do it? I looked under the car and I'm not 100% sure.
02-21-2010, 09:37 PM
#112
Area on my XM
Has anyone attempted a transmission drain and refill from the top of the motor with a siphon pump through the transmission dipstick tube? I understand that this isn't the best way to do the job since I will not be able to inspect the filter or what's on the bottom of the pan, but for somebody like myself who has limited accessibility and tools, this will be the best way to at least get some fresh Z1 fluid in there every so often.
I read somewhere online that this is an acceptable method when one is in a pinch, but I'm just looking for other opinions.
I read somewhere online that this is an acceptable method when one is in a pinch, but I'm just looking for other opinions.
02-28-2010, 09:42 PM
#113
4th Gear
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Sealing Washers same as oil drain plug?
Does anyone know if the sealing washers for the trans fluid filler and drain are the same size as for the oil drain plug? I have a few of those and want to know if I can re-use those or if I'd need to get specific ones (if I decide I can't reuse the old ones).
Thanks.
Thanks.
02-28-2010, 10:48 PM
#114
practicing nihilist
The trans filler plug washer on top of the transmission was much larger than the oil drain plug washer. The drain plug was a recessed, 3/8" drive bolt that didn't have a crush washer.
03-01-2010, 07:08 AM
#115
Safety Car
All three require an aluminum crush washer. All three are a much different diameter.
Look out. That trans filler plug washer is expensive compared to the other washers.
ENGINE DRAIN PLUG WASHER = 94109-14000 WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (14MM) $0.24
TRANS DRAIN PLUG WASHER = 90471-PX4-000 WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (18MM) $1.46
TRANS FILLER PLUG WASHER = 90441-PK4-000 WASHER, SEALING (24MM) $2.94
Ned - Someone failed to install the crush washer. It should have one.
Look out. That trans filler plug washer is expensive compared to the other washers.
ENGINE DRAIN PLUG WASHER = 94109-14000 WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (14MM) $0.24
TRANS DRAIN PLUG WASHER = 90471-PX4-000 WASHER, DRAIN PLUG (18MM) $1.46
TRANS FILLER PLUG WASHER = 90441-PK4-000 WASHER, SEALING (24MM) $2.94
Ned - Someone failed to install the crush washer. It should have one.
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04-20-2010, 07:23 PM
#116
2nd Gear
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Wow... excellent post! I just hate that I'm just now discovering this. I was only able to do one drain/refill due time constraints, but plan on doing at least two more ASAP since I'm approaching 55K and it's never been done. Thanks RR for posting this-- it's definitely a HUGE help! All the descriptions down to the smallest detail were spot on for my '05. Finding the fill plug was the most difficult step...
05-20-2010, 12:41 AM
#118
Piece Of Cake...Almost
So, I have read all the posts here and did the 3x3 (Actually have to do the last one tomorrow in the morning, ran out of daylight) first bolt I loosened on the slpash gaurd(front one) broke off, looks like it was cross threaded
. Also, my drain plug did not have a "Crush Washer" either. Everything else was a cinch. A few pointers worth repeating 1. The Plastic electrical box above the filler bolt DO REMOVE THIS!!!, just pull back with a little flatblade screwdriver the little black tab. I could not re-thread the filler bolt/washer W/O removing this. 2. At least 2 LONG extensions to get to filler plug ( 12" at bare minimum all together) , also long filler funnel( the hard little plastic ones work well, you just have to push it down in there a little.) 3. Auto Zone employess and their computers are idiots, there is a tranny filter, look it up at Advanced Auto.com, there is a pic. Also, i only used jack stands on the front, then jacked up the rear pass. side when came time to drain,fill. Leveled the car nicely. Got almost 3 qrts out each time. 4. Buy Z1 fluid from ebay. I had 9 Qrts of Acura Z-1 delievered to my door for $53.50
from seller mawvin5. 5. ENJOY NICE COLD BEER!
. Also, my drain plug did not have a "Crush Washer" either. Everything else was a cinch. A few pointers worth repeating 1. The Plastic electrical box above the filler bolt DO REMOVE THIS!!!, just pull back with a little flatblade screwdriver the little black tab. I could not re-thread the filler bolt/washer W/O removing this. 2. At least 2 LONG extensions to get to filler plug ( 12" at bare minimum all together) , also long filler funnel( the hard little plastic ones work well, you just have to push it down in there a little.) 3. Auto Zone employess and their computers are idiots, there is a tranny filter, look it up at Advanced Auto.com, there is a pic. Also, i only used jack stands on the front, then jacked up the rear pass. side when came time to drain,fill. Leveled the car nicely. Got almost 3 qrts out each time. 4. Buy Z1 fluid from ebay. I had 9 Qrts of Acura Z-1 delievered to my door for $53.50 from seller mawvin5. 5. ENJOY NICE COLD BEER!
Last edited by AJHardee; 05-20-2010 at 12:46 AM.
05-20-2010, 08:22 AM
#119
Ak Ting Up
2nd 3X3 with Mobile 1 ATF
I did my second 3X3 last week. I used the Mobile 1 synthetic ATF.
So far, my car is shifting smoother (more "slush") at normal speeds, and when I get on it the downshifts are crisper. There is less tranny whine also.
I'm not saying the Mobile 1 fluid is great, but the Honda fluid is average, making any synthetic replacement an upgrade.
So far, my car is shifting smoother (more "slush") at normal speeds, and when I get on it the downshifts are crisper. There is less tranny whine also.
I'm not saying the Mobile 1 fluid is great, but the Honda fluid is average, making any synthetic replacement an upgrade.
09-19-2010, 07:27 PM
#120
Just started my 3x3 and want to thank everyone who posted with tips. Between the two major topics, with and without pics, this went fairly easy. The only problem i ran into was loosening the ATF fill nut. What a.... well i'll keep it clean and say a breaker bar or pipe IS required! Otherwise follow the directions and you're good to go. So far i did 2 exchanges today, will complete the 3rd next weekend and i seem to notice a difference in the shifts. My car is an '04 with about 90k on it. Not sure if previous owner ever had it changed but it was pretty dark.
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