MandoTL

I'm getting my fluid changed right now. I have been using all Redline D4 for the last 30k miles. But I'm going to dry the racing and D4 switch for better shifts so

So with that I got 3 qts racing ATF and since my car drains nearly 4 QTS. I just bought a D4 bcuz I was scared atf fluid was too low along with lack of FMs.

I know this is not following the steps but my car always drains very close to 4 QTS and since this is my first hand to a mixed atf ratio is this okay?

M1N1

Has anyone had their ATF cooling lines leak after switching to Red Line?
I just notice three of the four hoses are slowly leaking on my 07 base. I've had the Red Line fluid from 87k to now at 94k.

I hate cars

Does the '07 base come with an external cooler? I added a cooler to my '06 base at around 20,000 miles and switched to Amsoil ATD at the same time. Switched to Redline D4 and then to Type F "racing" around 75,000 miles. Now at 124,000 miles and no leaks. I am getting what looks like a rear main leak but no drips yet.

M1N1

I don't believe it has an external cooler. I just assumed they are cooler lines since they attach to the radiator. I'm talking about hoses # 22,23, and 25

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

A little more about the ATF history:
Did 3X2 with DW1 at 80k when I purchase the car
Then at 87k 4x3 with 2 D4 and 1 Racing ATF

I hate cars

That's definitely different than the '04-'06 models. On the earlier ones there's a heat exchanger on the transmission and coolant is plumbed to the transmission. It looks like the later ones bring the ATF to the radiator instead. Same thing just two different ways of doing it. You're right though, they are trans fluid lines. Any chance you can use fuel injection hose clamps to tighten them down a bit? Obviously check to make sure the rubber is not brittle or cracked.

M1N1

Yeah hoses aren't cracked nor ripped. They're also just wet and not dripping, yet, so I will add some clamps now and see how that works out.

I had a leak at the return line of the PS pump in my old civic, I added a clamp but that didn't help. Fluid level was never affected though, it was only annoying to see the fluid stain.

Since you were kind enough to reply to my question; what do you think about my atf mix? I'm using 2 d4 and 1 racing. From what I've read in this thread there is a difference in viscosity from the Honda atf. Can that affect my transmission since we see single digit temperatures during winter here in chicago?

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

WERD TO WERD with this....

I am seeing some rear main leak as well but no drips....

also started with Redline (directly from Z1) at 147K and am at 177K and no leaks

I hate cars

Racing (type f) is about 1.5x thicker than stock at 10cSt. I would not run it into single digits.

D4 (DexIII) is close to stock viscosity at 7.5cSt.

RL Lightweight Racing (Type F) is thinner than stock at 4.9cSt.

Stock Z1 is in the 7cSt range. DW-1 is thinner than Z1, in the low 6cSt range I think but I would have to look it up.

Having just one quart of racing isn't going to make it that much thicker and at the extreme cold end the synthetic fluid will eventual be thinner. If it were me in those temps I would do 2 quarts of D4 and one quart of lightweight. You get the same frictional properties as what you have now but with far superior cold performance. It will be a little thinner than stock which is perfect for the winter there. The cooler circuit is a low pressure circuit usually running less than 30psi on most cars. If it were beginning the plug the pressure would go up but there's usually a pressure relief valve in the system which can also mean no cooler flow.

There's also Amsoil ATF that is the correct viscosity and the equivalent of D4. Amsoil also makes it's Super Shift which is their type F but it's stock viscosity so you don't have to worry about being too thick in the winter.

Now before everyone panics the D4 and Racing mix is fine for most places. The single digits is where I would draw the line for the mix of the thicker racing fluid and D4. The transmission will operate over a wide range of temps and viscosities but even if you had the stock viscosity it would benefit slightly from a thinner fluid in that kind of cold. I'll look at one of the temperature charts but I'm sure the lightweight fluid will be thicker on startup in the Chicago winter than the racing fluid would be in the winter here.

The transmission creates heat very quickly when driven. I used to powerbrake it slightly for a minute when I had it in a place that got into the teens and the cooler would have some warmth after only a minute. Even putting it in gear while you warm it up (if you warm it up) will heat the engine a little quicker and the transmission a lot quicker.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

I agree....it does get cold here but the trans heats up relatively quick....by the time am out of my subdivision and past the stop sign, even in single digit weather, the transmission is shifting just fine

I need to get a trans temp gauge in there....

M1N1

I hate cars, thank you for answering my questions. I will take your advice and run the lightweight stuff from now on.

jhumbo

iTrader: (1)

M1N1,

I am also in Chicago and ran a blend of Redline lightweight racing and regular racing and was very pleased with the improved shifting on cold winter mornings. It ended up being a huge improvement over the stock fluid when driving cold. You probably already notice the harsh shifts when the car is cold. That will go away.

I did various blends over the life of the car, but eventually settled on 1:1:1 ratio of Lightwight : Racing : D1.

killer8rican

Anybody using AMSOIL? i really dont like that redline stuff and im about to buy a case of amsoil atf but there are two types:
-Signature Series Multi-Vehicle Synthetic Aut Trans Fluid ATFQT-EA
-Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Aut Trans Fluid ATLQT-EA

I hate cars

Why don't you like Redline?

The fuel efficient ATF is thinner. My guess is it's close to the DexVI spec but I haven't looked. In reality you will never see a difference in mpg unless you live in a very cold area and do mostly short trips.

Chevelle66

Has anybody used or looked into using D6 instead of D4. Red line lists it as a DW-1 replacement and D4 as Z1.
mixing equal parts D6, Racing, and light weight atf gives you a Vis @ 100°C, cSt of 7.1. While using D4 in the mix is about 7.5.

ashdec87

I'm planning on changing out the trans fluid. However I don't remember what fluid was put in when I had the pressure switches changed. I vaguely remember buying D4 but can't be sure. Should I go ahead with the type F for the first two changes then a type F/D4 for the third and subsequent changes?

tones160

>.> anyone car to do a quick explaning of what is the meaning of 3x3 or 1x3 or 4x3? lol...Like refill 3 times or 3 quarts?

hleapha

The Acura hold 9 qts of ATF fluid. When you pull the drain plug, only 3 qts come out. So a 1x3 is simply draining and adding 3 qts, leaving you with 33% new fluid. Doing the drain and fill 3 times is a 3x3 and leaves you will a higher percentage of new fluid and is universally considered a "flush" although a percentage of old fluid remains.

tones160

Omg i feel like a damm noob...i do a lot of work on my own cars and been driving over 8 yrs but i also had other people do my tranny oil. Never imagined that it would only drain out 3 qts instead of the whole thing

tones160

Also, in order to keep flushing i need to plug it back in then off again? Thanks dude

ALarsh

You should drive around after you fill it up with new fluid to get the fluid moving around.

tones160

Ahh thanks dude..so i ma do a 3x3 like suggested with Redline Type F followed by Redline D4 ..hopefully i wont fuk up my TL lmao.

1KLRTOY

You won't muck it up if you use 65% RL racing (type F) and 35% RL D4/D6.

Groover

So if I have Z1 in my engine now, if I can drain 3 qts, do 1 qt D4/D6 and 2 qt RL racing and be ok until my next 2 oil changes to do the same thing? All this in the meantime as I have a ton of Z1 won't muck anything up?

Thanks!

TheTitus

Had a mixture of Z1 and DW1 in my TL until it hit about 105k miles. I then changed the pressure switches and did a 1x3 with Redline Racing, and immediately noticed an improvement, but it wasn't until I did my second 1x3 with the Racing ATF that my car began shifting incredibly well. It now shifts super quickly and smoothly. No more of that annoying lurching forward due to slipping.

I plan on doing one more 1x3 with a mixture of D4 and Racing. Thanks for all the help!

1KLRTOY

I did my 3X3 within 2 weeks with no problems, did one more 1X3 at 3 weeks and am getting ready to do one more 1X3, this will make 15 qts. total, 10 racing and 5 D4 for a 65-35% mix, the transmission shifts perfect, and the fluid stays red now instead of turning black

tones160

Whoa you did 3x3 followed by 2 consecutive 1x3? lol That's a big of a change.

@ ALL: Would it be bad if i just do 100% Type F?

1KLRTOY

You don't want to do all type F, the transmission needs some FM, you could do all D4 / D6 with no problems but if you'll read most of the posts on this subject the ratio of 60-65% type F and the rest D4 /D6 is the way to go, just do not do all type F

tones160

Jeez thanks for clarifying dude ...all this pouring different quarts to make up the 65% of Type F is still a bit confusing. Sorry i was a little bad at math back in high school and college .

So the TL holds 9 Qts of ATF.

To make a 65% Type F / 35% D4 ratio I will need to do the following.

1x3 (3 times) 2 qts of Type F & 1 qt of D4 each 1x3?

1KLRTOY

Here is a calculator to help with the percents, if you do a 3X3 thats 12 qts. just input 12 and then 65% and it will tell you how many qts. but its pretty easy each flush is 2 type F 1 D4/D6 https://www.google.com/search?q=calc...ie=UTF-8&brd=1

Groover

Actually I plan to follow this formula from the top of this entire thread.....
------------------------------------
For anyone that is beginning to use Racing ATF for the first time

Refill #1 = 3 quarts Racing ATF
Refill #2 = 3 quarts Racing ATF
Refill #3 = 2 quarts Racing ATF + 1 quart D4

The above will produce a 65% Racing mixture.

For any subsequent refills (If you choose to do any additional refills in the future), you should use 2 quarts Racing ATF and 1 quart D4. This will maintain a 65% Racing mixture indefinitely.

-----------------

Because if you have OEM in your car now, 100% racing on the first change (if you drain/fill 3 qt) will only get you to 33% total Racing ATF as you only doing 1/3 of the total. Then up to 66% by the 2nd change, after that you're good and do 2 racing and 1 D4. Not good at math either but this way makes more sense as you go it seems, gradually increasing that Racing ATF %

Edit: meant to quote the last message you had tones

1KLRTOY

tones160

Wow dude you definitely sugar coated it for me perfectly! Thanks alot!...now if i want to do a 3x3 the same day..how long do i wait after each 1x3 on the same day? Do i do 1x3 and drive the car for bit so i can do the next 1 x3 the same day or is there a little trick to flush the whole 9 qts and put it the whole 9 qts in the order you suggested? ..i got the percentage down pack, now i need to know the timing.

Nick216

I wouldnt do it all in one day. Especially with the type f. Maybe like a week so you can get a feel for it.

tones160

Ok so i will do it like that..now...you rather have me do 2 qts of Type F and 1 D4 first or go with all 3 qts of Type F first? The last 1x3 i can just add the 1 qt of D4 along with 2 qts as my last drain/fill. Good??

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

hasnt this thread gone down the shitter....


FIRST OFF the transmission DOES NOT hold 9qts, but only 7.4 qts

Since most of the fluid is locked in, 3-3.1qts drain out, hence you drain 3qts and fill 3 qts...now when you do that, you have 3 new qts of fluid and 4.4 old qts of fluid and hence we have to do the drain and refill multiple times in order to get as much new fluid in there as we can....

here are the drain and refill %'s
1=39.5%
2=63.4%
3=77.8%
4=86.6%
5=91.9%
6=95.1%
7=97.0%
8=98.2%
9=98.9%
10=99+%


which mean if you drain and refill the transmission a total of 5 times, you will only have 92% of fresh fluid in there...so even after going through 15qts, you are not at all fresh fluid in there.



MY EXPERIENCE:
I live in KS, so we get our share of hot and cold....

I was running OEM Z1 in my car...when I was at 147K miles, I decided to make the switch to redline and wanted to run straight Type F fluid. I was driving ~1000 miles/2 weeks, so I decided to do the following:

147000 miles: Transmission 1x3
148000 miles: Transmission 1x3
149000 miles: Transmission 1x3
150000 miles: Transmission 1x3

This way, I thought if something happens which I dont like, I can always revert back to the OEM Z1. It was all good and I was running all Type F fluid.

At 165K miles, I did another drain and refill with Type F and I noticed very very slight flaring...nothing alarming....

At 175K miles, I installed the B&M Transmission cooler and added some Type F and boy I was experiencing a lot of flaring going from 2nd, into 3rd.....

Next drain and refill was scheduled for 180K miles, so I just went ahead and did a drain and refill at 176K miles, this go around I did 2xType F and 1xD4 and all the flaring was gone....

I am at 181K miles now and been issues free....next drain and refill is scheduled for 195K. I will be using 2xType F and 1XD4....

tones160

wow dude you're a genius lol...thats a huge difference from 9 qts down to 7.4 qts.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Actually qts:
'04-'06 7.6
'07-'08 7.9 Type S 8.1

MafiaBoy

I would like to ask Innacurate. I have a second gen 03 TL with a tranny out for a rebuild. Putting it back together now. What I would like to know is
1. If i drive just a bit faster than a gramma, is this 65% mix necessary? I take my RPMs to red once a week, twice would be max?
2. Did you notice any trash on the magnet after you had your 65% mix for some time?
3. What is my other option equivalent to OEM but cheaper at price?

MafiaBoy

4. I found D4 fluid at oreilly, but which brand of racing flauid do i use?

1KLRTOY

Redline