3G TL (2004-2008)
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My Venture for A 6mt (Type-S)

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Old 12-18-2017, 08:25 AM
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I wouldn't worry about the clutch till it gives you reason to worry..
Old 12-18-2017, 09:12 AM
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Agree on the clutch as others have stated...wouldn't worry until it shows signs. If the previous owner knew how to drive, the clutch may last a long time.
Old 12-18-2017, 09:25 AM
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The clutch in my car has been exhibiting signs of being tired since I first bought the car last May. So far I've driven it nearly 15,000 miles and don't quite need it yet; that said, I've already purchased a new LUK flywheel, clutch kit, and slave cylinder (which I will remove the check valve from). I have the parts on hand just in case, but hopefully the current clutch will last until the weather gets a bit more spring-like.
Old 12-18-2017, 01:03 PM
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sounds good. I noticed today on my commute to work that the third gear seems to "pop out" or at the very least struggles to shift into.
gm synchromesh will probably fix that right?
Old 12-18-2017, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by MyGuti
sounds good. I noticed today on my commute to work that the third gear seems to "pop out" or at the very least struggles to shift into.
gm synchromesh will probably fix that right?
Bingo!

That said, make sure it is the ACDelco Synchromesh Friction Modified.

FWIW, my car had a very mild grind going into third and the whole "popping out" issue you've experienced. The ACDelco Synchromesh Friction Modified cured both issues.
Old 12-18-2017, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by horseshoez
Bingo!

That said, make sure it is the ACDelco Synchromesh Friction Modified.

FWIW, my car had a very mild grind going into third and the whole "popping out" issue you've experienced. The ACDelco Synchromesh Friction Modified cured both issues.
is the procedure of using synchromesh the same as the 3x3 drain and fill that is used for the base models' transmission fluid drain and fills?
Old 12-18-2017, 01:15 PM
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ahem...
with friction modifiers!
Old 12-18-2017, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by MyGuti
is the procedure of using synchromesh the same as the 3x3 drain and fill that is used for the base models' transmission fluid drain and fills?
No, the 3x3 thing is exclusive to the automatic transmissions. For the 6MT, simply drain the MTF, replace it with the Synchromesh Friction Modified, and then repeat every 30,000 or so miles. The 6MT requires 2.3 quarts of MTF.
Old 12-18-2017, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by horseshoez
No, the 3x3 thing is exclusive to the automatic transmissions. For the 6MT, simply drain the MTF, replace it with the Synchromesh Friction Modified, and then repeat every 30,000 or so miles. The 6MT requires 2.3 quarts of MTF.
thanks man!
Old 12-18-2017, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
ahem...
with friction modifiers!
lol are you ever sour about letting your 6mt go eh?
Old 12-18-2017, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by MyGuti
lol are you ever sour about letting your 6mt go eh?
We keep harping on the "Friction Modified" thing because the ACDelco Synchromech product is available with and without the Friction Modified element. The MTF not so endowed has been accidentally purchased by some of our members and it does not perform well.
Old 12-18-2017, 01:37 PM
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Listen, in some regards...I can't compare...I'm in a far superior vehicle in the Cadillac...still have the 6MT in the S2000 and A3...
BUT, the TL was a better jack off all trades, that's for certain.
Old 12-18-2017, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MyGuti
lol are you ever sour about letting your 6mt go eh?
I'll speak for him.


Hell to the yeah.
Old 12-18-2017, 01:55 PM
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okay so this is the one I'm looking at getting:
Amazon Amazon

looks like I will need 3 of them in order to have enough for the drain and fill
Old 12-18-2017, 02:08 PM
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I thought it was 2...but I could be wrong.
Old 12-18-2017, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by MyGuti
okay so this is the one I'm looking at getting:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

looks like I will need 3 of them in order to have enough for the drain and fill
Yup, dat be da stuff!
Old 12-18-2017, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143

I thought it was 2...but I could be wrong.
I believe the actual spec is 74 ounces (i.e. 2-Quarts and 10-Onces).
Old 12-18-2017, 02:11 PM
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I don't recall every pumping out almost 3 full bottles...
I'm going off recollection here though...and how much of a pita it was to pump the bottles out from under the car.
Old 12-18-2017, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
I don't recall every pumping out almost 3 full bottles...
I'm going off recollection here though...and how much of a pita it was to pump the bottles out from under the car.
I didn't pump anything out; I opened the drain plug, drained the MTF out, closed the drain plug, opened the fill plug, and filled until overflow.
Old 12-18-2017, 02:14 PM
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I meant pumping out of the bottle into the case...
I mean, if it's 3 it's 3...but for some reason I recall it being less. Maybe I'm thinking in the S2000.
Old 12-18-2017, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
I meant pumping out of the bottle into the case...
I mean, if it's 3 it's 3...but for some reason I recall it being less. Maybe I'm thinking in the S2000.
Ahhh, I understand now. To the best of my knowledge, all 6MT transmissions used in the V6 models use 2.3 quarts (i.e. 74 ounces).
Old 12-18-2017, 02:25 PM
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yeah, trust me...I'm suggesting following YOUR advice...it's been a while since I've had to do this.
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Old 12-18-2017, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by horseshoez
I believe the actual spec is 74 ounces (i.e. 2-Quarts and 10-Onces).
Might help if I could freakin' spell; lets try that again...

I believe the actual spec is 74 ounces (i.e. 2-Quarts and 10-Ounces).
Old 12-18-2017, 02:31 PM
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I figured you meant 11 and said onzes!
Old 12-18-2017, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
I figured you meant 11 and said onzes!
Sounds like something I'd say; you're getting to know me too well.
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Old 12-18-2017, 03:22 PM
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The total capacity for the trans is 2.5 quarts, for a fluid change your looking at 2.2 quarts. Helps that I did this 2 weeks ago ..
Old 12-18-2017, 03:26 PM
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okay thanks guys!
going to do this myself as local acura and Honda dealers here want 70 bucks for the job before tax, and I have to supply the fluid LOL
Old 12-18-2017, 03:30 PM
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could I get away with just getting 2 bottles?
Old 12-18-2017, 03:33 PM
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I just remembered, I only bought 2 because I had that little bit leftover from last time.
Old 12-18-2017, 03:33 PM
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Just do it yourself, it's too easy & get the 3 bottles..
Old 12-18-2017, 03:39 PM
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sounds good. appreciate all the help!
Old 12-18-2017, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
the 6MT does have a pressure switch but it's located in the driver footwell area to the left of the brake pedal. Be sure to apply it regularly when changing gears too to save your synchros.

I dont understand this sentence. I just picked mine up last Saturday. It has 132k miles. I don't think it has had any clutch work done to that I was told and none shows on the carfax.
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Old 12-18-2017, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Joecop67
I dont understand this sentence. I just picked mine up last Saturday. It has 132k miles. I don't think it has had any clutch work done to that I was told and none shows on the carfax.
He was making a joke about the pressure switch being the clutch pedal.

You ruined his jokes.

I ruin jokes. That's my job. Pls don't do that again.
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Old 12-18-2017, 05:06 PM
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Sorry for being dense. Lol
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Old 12-18-2017, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by BROlando
He was making a joke about the pressure switch being the clutch pedal.

You ruined his jokes.

I ruin jokes. That's my job. Pls don't do that again.
^^:gheylaugh:
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Old 12-18-2017, 07:15 PM
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Bought my TL with 80k and now at 145k still on original clutch
LOL Rockstar almost got me .
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Old 12-19-2017, 10:52 AM
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Self adjusting clutch, so no need to replace it until it is worn down. You will know when it goes and as long as you are driving it properly there should be no damage done. Basically why fix whats not broken? You could get many years out of the clutch if you drive it properly. If you wanted to launch it from vtech then that might be a different thing...
Old 12-19-2017, 11:27 AM
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True that. I have always been a manual driver who will down shift when slowing down, usually to second and then pop it into neutral and apply brake only.
I was not aware that this is not necessary, and that "popping" the vehicle into neutral from any gear and applying solely the brake to slow down is acceptable, unless of course you will be moving the vehicle shortly thereafter. I'm speaking about coming to a complete stop....but yeah I will need to change this driving habit and it will definitely save the clutch life......
Thank god I learned this within the first week of owning and driving this car
Old 12-19-2017, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by MyGuti
True that. I have always been a manual driver who will down shift when slowing down, usually to second and then pop it into neutral and apply brake only.
I was not aware that this is not necessary, and that "popping" the vehicle into neutral from any gear and applying solely the brake to slow down is acceptable, unless of course you will be moving the vehicle shortly thereafter. I'm speaking about coming to a complete stop....but yeah I will need to change this driving habit and it will definitely save the clutch life......
Thank god I learned this within the first week of owning and driving this car
No harm with downshifting as long as you rev-match properly... I always downshift before coming to a complete stop usually - I get to hear some nice burbles and pops from the exhaust from the back-pressure too haha.
Rev-matching in the TL/TL-S is pretty easy too IMO.
As long as engine RPM's match the speed of the gearbox (hence the term rev-match), there are absolutely zero side effects on your gearbox components (clutch, syncros, etc.) from downshifting. It's a more efficient way of driving too.

Last edited by mtiaz; 12-19-2017 at 08:12 PM.
Old 12-19-2017, 10:39 PM
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Yeah, if you have experience driving stick, there's no harm at all and the oem clutch is pretty robust...don't dump it though, go easy on it...like a new girlfriend. It'll last you.
I would look into removing the slave cylinder checkvalve though...I do recall having a bitch of a time taking off smoothly originally even with a lot of years of experience driving manual Hondas.



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