My Venture for A 6mt (Type-S)
The clutch in my car has been exhibiting signs of being tired since I first bought the car last May. So far I've driven it nearly 15,000 miles and don't quite need it yet; that said, I've already purchased a new LUK flywheel, clutch kit, and slave cylinder (which I will remove the check valve from). I have the parts on hand just in case, but hopefully the current clutch will last until the weather gets a bit more spring-like.
That said, make sure it is the ACDelco Synchromesh Friction Modified.
FWIW, my car had a very mild grind going into third and the whole "popping out" issue you've experienced. The ACDelco Synchromesh Friction Modified cured both issues.
is the procedure of using synchromesh the same as the 3x3 drain and fill that is used for the base models' transmission fluid drain and fills?
No, the 3x3 thing is exclusive to the automatic transmissions. For the 6MT, simply drain the MTF, replace it with the Synchromesh Friction Modified, and then repeat every 30,000 or so miles. The 6MT requires 2.3 quarts of MTF.
We keep harping on the "Friction Modified" thing because the ACDelco Synchromech product is available with and without the Friction Modified element. The MTF not so endowed has been accidentally purchased by some of our members and it does not perform well.
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,249
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Listen, in some regards...I can't compare...I'm in a far superior vehicle in the Cadillac...still have the 6MT in the S2000 and A3...
BUT, the TL was a better jack off all trades, that's for certain.
BUT, the TL was a better jack off all trades, that's for certain.
okay so this is the one I'm looking at getting:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
looks like I will need 3 of them in order to have enough for the drain and fill
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
looks like I will need 3 of them in order to have enough for the drain and fill
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,249
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I don't recall every pumping out almost 3 full bottles...
I'm going off recollection here though...and how much of a pita it was to pump the bottles out from under the car.
I'm going off recollection here though...and how much of a pita it was to pump the bottles out from under the car.
I didn't pump anything out; I opened the drain plug, drained the MTF out, closed the drain plug, opened the fill plug, and filled until overflow.
Ahhh, I understand now. To the best of my knowledge, all 6MT transmissions used in the V6 models use 2.3 quarts (i.e. 74 ounces).
I dont understand this sentence. I just picked mine up last Saturday. It has 132k miles. I don't think it has had any clutch work done to that I was told and none shows on the carfax.
You ruined his jokes.
I ruin jokes. That's my job. Pls don't do that again.
Self adjusting clutch, so no need to replace it until it is worn down. You will know when it goes and as long as you are driving it properly there should be no damage done. Basically why fix whats not broken? You could get many years out of the clutch if you drive it properly. If you wanted to launch it from vtech then that might be a different thing...
True that. I have always been a manual driver who will down shift when slowing down, usually to second and then pop it into neutral and apply brake only.
I was not aware that this is not necessary, and that "popping" the vehicle into neutral from any gear and applying solely the brake to slow down is acceptable, unless of course you will be moving the vehicle shortly thereafter. I'm speaking about coming to a complete stop....but yeah I will need to change this driving habit and it will definitely save the clutch life......
Thank god I learned this within the first week of owning and driving this car
I was not aware that this is not necessary, and that "popping" the vehicle into neutral from any gear and applying solely the brake to slow down is acceptable, unless of course you will be moving the vehicle shortly thereafter. I'm speaking about coming to a complete stop....but yeah I will need to change this driving habit and it will definitely save the clutch life......
Thank god I learned this within the first week of owning and driving this car
True that. I have always been a manual driver who will down shift when slowing down, usually to second and then pop it into neutral and apply brake only.
I was not aware that this is not necessary, and that "popping" the vehicle into neutral from any gear and applying solely the brake to slow down is acceptable, unless of course you will be moving the vehicle shortly thereafter. I'm speaking about coming to a complete stop....but yeah I will need to change this driving habit and it will definitely save the clutch life......
Thank god I learned this within the first week of owning and driving this car
I was not aware that this is not necessary, and that "popping" the vehicle into neutral from any gear and applying solely the brake to slow down is acceptable, unless of course you will be moving the vehicle shortly thereafter. I'm speaking about coming to a complete stop....but yeah I will need to change this driving habit and it will definitely save the clutch life......
Thank god I learned this within the first week of owning and driving this car

Rev-matching in the TL/TL-S is pretty easy too IMO.
As long as engine RPM's match the speed of the gearbox (hence the term rev-match), there are absolutely zero side effects on your gearbox components (clutch, syncros, etc.) from downshifting. It's a more efficient way of driving too.
Last edited by mtiaz; Dec 19, 2017 at 08:12 PM.
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,249
Likes: 20,202


Yeah, if you have experience driving stick, there's no harm at all and the oem clutch is pretty robust...don't dump it though, go easy on it...like a new girlfriend. It'll last you.
I would look into removing the slave cylinder checkvalve though...I do recall having a bitch of a time taking off smoothly originally even with a lot of years of experience driving manual Hondas.









