Jequan_Sparxxx

iTrader: (1)

Hey Guys,

I know I've been posting a LOT of question lately but it is because I am new to this site and a new 3G TL owner so I look to all of you for ADVICE so please bare with me

With regards to Switchbacks / LED corner lights (Front & Rear), I know it is common to experience the Hyperflashing issue if you do not use resistors. I've read many, many articles about this. However, I do not see much information on the use of LED Relays to fix this issue.

Have any of you used one of these LED Relays to fix your hyperflashing issues? If so, was it fairly simple to install? Is there a direct OEM replacement? Was it plug and play? Did you have to wire things in? How many PIN's did it have vs the stock one?

At the end of the day, if you decide to go with the Relay option, can one relay attend to the LEDs for the 2 front corners and the 2 rear corners and fix the HyperFlashing? I've seen the articles but no one has confirmed that it works or how to do this.

Also, this question is more the the TL owners that have Bi-Xenon HIDs, have any of you installed LEDs for your DRLs? Are there any impacts to the car if you install LEDs for the DRLs? Do you need a relay or anything to prevent any other issues? I have Halo's in my headlights and I do not like seeing the regular lights on if I decide to turn on all my marker lights without my HIDs. Honestly, if I could disable the DRLs or even JUST in that mode, that would be great... but I think that would cause errors on my dash.

Guru's, what do you suggest?

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

I've only heard of hyperblinking fixed in one of the two ways:

1. Buy load resistors and splice into turn signal wires.
2. Take turn signal relay out from fuse box and remove shunt resistor and replace with a .24 ohm resistor.

I know there are "direct replacement" relays out there that fixes hyperblinking, but I'm not sure if there are any for the TL. At least I have not seen them, yet.

Cheapest method is to buy a .24 ohm resistor and solder it on. It's cheap, and more efficient.

In regards to DRL LEDs, if you install a DRL LED, you will not have full power and in addition you'll get an error on the dash without a harness.

What you want IS possible.
So what do you want?
Do you want normally functioning LED DRL?
Do you want to disable DRL?
Do you want to have it disabled in parking light mode?

You listed scenarios that you'd like but I can't explain all scenarios lol

dezymond

i have bi-xenon HIDs and I installed LED DRL bulbs about a week ago. You'll need a relay harness. I went with an iJDMToy one and it's been working great.

I ran LEDs in them before the harness for a few days and never got a dash error, but the bulbs themselves only lit up maybe 30% and were very dim. You need a harness for it to work at 100% brightness.

Easiest way to disable the DRLs is the probably pull the fuse. Though I'm sure that would throw up some error codes.

Jequan_Sparxxx

iTrader: (1)

For the Hyperflashing issues, #2 sounds like the best option to me since they are already installed lol. The local LED man told me they had resistors built in.....but.... so much for that... Anyhow, that is abother story lol.... do you know where I can find details about this? I don't know much about that stuff nor do I have the equipment but I know a good auto electrician who can probably sort that out for me. The LED man said he's getting some relays but I don't know how those will work.

As for the DRL, option #1 & #3 are the better choices but if I had to pick one, I'd go with #3. During the day, I don't really care about how the DRLs look. It's not like I need them for visability. Having the LED would just make it look.... more attractive and cleaner vs the OEM bulb w/ yellowish tint. However, with #3, disabling them during parking mode would be perfect since during dusk hours, I could just run the Halo's, Side Markers and whatever else comes on by default without the OEM DRL clashing with the colour!

Jequan_Sparxxx

iTrader: (1)

Okay, so they can work without the harness.... but would be dimmer..... hmmm... that is a possible quick solution option. Dimness or Brightness don't really bother me since running DRL during the day.... desn't make a differece visability wise.

You were able to install that without taking off the bumper / headlights?

dezymond

Yeah you can access the bulbs from the engine bay. Very easy.

Mondo375

iTrader: (3)

This is what I followed for #2. Cheap and easy.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/g-109-diy-eliminate-led-bulb-induced-hyper-flashing-without-load-resistors-815219/

vietxquangstah

iTrader: (7)

half of the leds will be lit up dimly the other half will not even light up at all.

Jequan_Sparxxx

iTrader: (1)

Raspekk Mondo! Seems like you've me found a simple solution for the hyper flashing issue! Strange how I didn't come across that article. Let's see how this goes!

Jequan_Sparxxx

iTrader: (1)

So, is it a .12 ohm resistor that I need or a .24 ohm resistor? Would they need to be 1 watt? I am seeing all types of options. I just want to make sure I buy the right one.

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

Get .24 ohm 1 watt.

.12 ohm works if you're only planning to use front signal LEDs, or only rear signal LEDs, but not both.

.24 ohm works for both if you plan on getting front and rear turn signal LEDs.
It also works if you only have front LEDs, or if you have only rear LEDs.

It does what .12 ohm does, but has that ability to work with rear LEDs if you ever want them.

Future proof your purchases.

vietxquangstah

iTrader: (7)

I want to add one more thing to that list.

a 0.24 ohm resistor will still work even if you don't have any LED turn signals and are still using factory non-LED bulbs.

Worked in my 08 TL and my friends 95 Accord

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

That is true. I did my relay resistor a few days before I received my bulbs in the mail and it worked fine with oem bulbs.

Jequan_Sparxxx

iTrader: (1)

Okay, so .24 ohm 1 watt resistor it is. I already have front and rear LEDS so this word be the best option.

@ guitarplayer16 - What about my DRL scenario for option 3? 3 being the most important (Disabling DRLs during parking mode). How can I go about this?

projectsfz

The DRL was a no win scenario for me. From what I've looked at searching through old posts was either you roll with them or you have an error light in your gauges with the fuse disabled.

On that note, the search function and a little reading does wonders.

1black_seven

iTrader: (2)

The resistor worked to an extent for me. The switchbacks didn't hyperflash, but they strobed white/orange when I used the turn signal. It started after about a week of installing the resistor.

I would just buy the plug n play resistors, in my experience shortcuts don't work.

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

I have one scenario and it should work - don't know if there's a better way, but it should work.

Order 9005 DRL resistors. These will trick your car to think that your bulbs are not out. Very important if you don't want the "DRL" error on the dash.

Order a 9005 relay harness.

Wire it up so that the relay switches to off when the parking light is enabled, and on when the parking light isn't enabled.

rockyfeller

iTrader: (6)

Modding the flasher relay really does work, it is genius. We were looking for a solution for years, load resistors were the only option before that was thought of.

But I will warn you that you have to be careful with this mod. Mine worked for awhile but somehow I shorted out my relay by my stupidity. Or I think I may have melted something on the board with the soldering iron. I didn't want to risk another $80 relay so I went back old fashioned load resistors.

vietxquangstah

iTrader: (7)

You got it wrong. Soldering a resistor into the relay isn't a short cut. it's the only real proper way to do it.

The method you suggested using in line load resistors is a short cut.

What brand switch back were you using?

I've has my flasher relay modified for well over 2 years now and used 3 different pairs of bulbs no problem

1black_seven

iTrader: (2)

^V3 Tritons, and before that I had the LED towers

wilztlxs

iTrader: (8)

If you had the Gen 1 V3 Tritons, the alternating white/orange when using the turn signal was a defect of the Gen 1. I experienced it with the Gen 1 before doing a warranty exchange to the Gen 2.

I've had the modded relay installed for 2 years now with no issues.

vietxquangstah

iTrader: (7)

I also have Gen 2 v3 tritons no problem