When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was going to do it myself but it's cold outside now :P I'll keep taking it back for another drain and fill and then another a few days later. Hopefully that's it lol.
Sounds good thanks. I'm trying to find a place that will do a drain and fill without charging me out the ass. Unfortunately it's really cold and snowy here now so I don't want to do it. The QuickLube place told me there isn't a filter on that transmission and they'd have to look up how much it'd they'd charge me to do it. The shop I had replace the clutch oil pressure sensors is saying $189 for FLUSH or $240 for a 3X3. They also said there isn't a transmission filter for the 2007 TL. The guy at the shop told me he wants to check it for codes before he does a flush or 3X3. He was adamant that he's never seen a transmission (that didn't have issues before) blow after a flush. Right now my fluid is a tan color and I can feel up shifts. Before I replaced the clutch oil pressure sensors I couldn't feel any upshifts. This leads me to believe that the trans itself is fine and now that the sensors work I can feel it because the fluid isn't up to spec in terms of viscosity which would cause me to feel up shifts? Still a little rough out of 3rd into 2nd but no where near as bad as it was before I changed the sensors.
...throw any more money into fluid changes just yet.
Look here first:
" Before I replaced the clutch oil pressure sensors I couldn't feel any upshifts. This leads me to believe that the trans itself is fine and now that the sensors work..."
I've received 'wrong' sensors that came in Honda-logoed bags a couple of times. It happens.
If you have your old ones, you can compare the sensor hole-size, or even put them back in and note the difference, since you've done the fluid (which I would have done FIRST) and it's RED.
Hey, at least your car isn't dead, like some people's.
Get in the car and close the door.
Put the key in the ignition, turn it to on and turn off all accessories (radio, A/C,etc.) but don't start it. Turn key off.
Press and hold the gas pedal to the floor for 2 seconds.
Turn key to on and don't start it.
You should hear some electronic clicking noises.
Turn key off and remove it. Take foot off gas pedal.
Wait maybe 10 seconds...
I'll try the reset right now. Thanks xD. Unfortunately I'm assuming the shop doesn't have the sensors any more -_- that would make sense given that the up shifts were perfect before but not now since the sensors could be incorrect. Short of replacing all of them with parts from another site idk how I could figure that out without having the old ones? The mechanic I took it to, after I picked it up, reiterated that the fluid coming out was the same color as the fluid going in. So, with that being the case, I'm assuming I got shit sensors now if the rest doesn't' help.
Get in the car and close the door.
Put the key in the ignition, turn it to on and turn off all accessories (radio, A/C,etc.) but don't start it. Turn key off.
Press and hold the gas pedal to the floor.
Turn key to on and don't start--wait it for 2 seconds.
You should hear some electronic clicking noises.
Turn key off and remove it. Take foot off gas pedal.
Wait maybe 10 seconds...
I'll try the reset right now. Thanks xD. Unfortunately I'm assuming the shop doesn't have the sensors any more -_- that would make sense given that the up shifts were perfect before but not now since the sensors could be incorrect. Short of replacing all of them with parts from another site idk how I could figure that out without having the old ones? The mechanic I took it to, after I picked it up, reiterated that the fluid coming out was the same color as the fluid going in. So, with that being the case, I'm assuming I got shit sensors now if the rest doesn't' help.
Since you don't have the old ones, about all I could suggest is to remove them and go to the Honda parts desk and compare them to new ones.
But see if the reset does anything, first. Good luck!
Did the reset before I even saw your correction LOL. It made a big difference. Now, the 3rd to 2nd down shift is 1/10th of what it was before the sensors and a 3x1. Now, the only thing it does is when I shift from 2nd to 3rd, if the shift takes place between 1900 and 2300 RPM then the RPM's will jump up 300 to 400 RPM as it's shifting from 2nd to 3rd, dropping back down right away as third gear engages. I figure that's either what the trans does or the 3rd gear pressure sensor I got either isn't OEM or partially broke? Or maybe I try again with the corrected steps? I heard the clicking and what not so I'm guess I actually fucked up on your original instructions and accidentally did it right. 100% goof ball over here rofl.
All other up and down shifts are pretty much seamless. Like I can tell it's shifting gears but it's not throwing me around the car anymore like it was.
Did the reset before I even saw your correction LOL. It made a big difference. Now, the 3rd to 2nd down shift is 1/10th of what it was before the sensors and a 3x1. Now, the only thing it does is when I shift from 2nd to 3rd, if the shift takes place between 1900 and 2300 RPM then the RPM's will jump up 300 to 400 RPM as it's shifting from 2nd to 3rd, dropping back down right away as third gear engages. I figure that's either what the trans does or the 3rd gear pressure sensor I got either isn't OEM or partially broke? Or maybe I try again with the corrected steps? I heard the clicking and what not so I'm guess I actually fucked up on your original instructions and accidentally did it right. 100% goof ball over here rofl.
I'll try the reset again for S&Gs. I'm guessing the RPM lift coming out of second won't mess up the trans and I can just deal with it until it's warm outside to continue the transmission quest of smooth shiftiness. Not like it slams into 3rd, just sounds weird, like the engine is trying to be sporty. High RPMs shifts are perfect. See why I try not to fix things lmfao? It's always wrong and I can't afford to fix my mistakes lol. Like when I couldn't get the outter tie rod off but the bolt that goes into the steering knuckle was snapped so I couldn't put it back together and drive it to a shop. Got lucky and found some guy to climb in the wheel well and use his foot to loosen it. The other guy used a torch like a smart person but I didn't wanna try that because my luck I'll melt a boot or set the car on fire.
Zoo, first of all please stay away from those Quick lube places, dem guys don't know dick. I just did pressure switches and the first ATF drain & refill on my 2004 TL. Searched these forums extensively for opinions ...I settled on Valvoline MaxLife ATF, Now some guys on here will disagree, but I feel safe, plus it's WAY cheeper - $18.00/gallon at Walmart. Check out the site "Bob is the Oil Guy" , he is regarded as THE expert on all fluids. Also on the OEM switches, there online for $55.00 delivered.
You have the RL tranny for 07-08, but still, I'd be careful... IDK, Valvoline tranny fluid may be alright, but I've been told too many times, Honda fluid for Honda trannys only... The 3x3 procedure is kinda hard to explain to a shop... Very few shops know about this... I'd personslly just have a standard drain and fill anually or something... And to the pressure switches at purchase of vehicle...
I had an 08 base in silver with 102,900, and sold it at around 106,500... IDK why... My situation changed from what it was and the TL will be necessary for me again sometime soon... So, I'm imagining how I'll maintain my next one... That idea of what I'll do myself is what I suggested to you above... Sorry to be so technical and enjoy the TL, they can have their drawbacks, but ultimately probably one of the best cars ever made!!!
Well, I had thought the reset helped but it didn't. Now the RPMs jump about 400 RPM when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd before it engages in 3rd gear. It did not do this before I changed the sensors. So now I'm thinking either the shop put the wrong sensor in the 3rd gear spot or the 3rd gear sensor I got wasn't OEM or is broke? The shift feels smooth from 2nd to 3rd, so, I'm thinking that at least it's not damaging the transmission. Just disconcerting to have the RPM's jump like that. Either way, over all, it's WAY better driving the car than when I first got it. That rough down shift was intense. I have 2 more fill and drains to go but I'm pretty much tapped out financially at this point. So, as soon as I sell my 2001 I'll finish the other two drain and fills but I don't want to spend $50 on another sensor and $80 on labor again. At least the car is otherwise in great shape, right? -_-
Zoo, I don't know what to tell ya about those sensors, maybe wrong part, or not OEM may be problem. I just had my second Tranny ATF change today. I have a local mechanic that is doing the 3x3 and switches for about $60.00. BTW, there is a thread w/ pics covering the 07-08 Acura TL ATF and pressure switches. When you find that thread, someone should know about your problems.
.
Well, I'm ordering the transmission fluid and getting this shot done by next week. Right now it's a had a 3x1. Just gonna have to deal with the cold. So, I'll be doing the other two 3 x 1's. If it isn't right after that I'll just leave it until the trans blows or sell it. Really sucks how people let thier cars go.
I live in Michigan, so, today was 28F. That fluid was checked when it was cold. It doesn't seem to shift or run all that much differently when it's warm or cold outside or when the motor is cold vs warm, at least not that I am noticing. The only thing it's doing now is what I am perceiving as a hard shifts, at least in the case of 2nd to 3rd but only when the shift takes place
between like 1800 and 2300 RPM. With hard shifts being define as being able to feel it when the car shifts up (not moving around in car from G Force) and on down shifts it feels like it "sticks" and will move your head at the very least if you're not expecting it, particularly going into 3rd to 2nd. Hard down shifts were greatly improved by replacing the 3 clutch oil pressure sensors while simultaneously deteriorating up shifts. Very odd. I have test drove a couple of the 07/08's and the one I have no definitely shifts like shit compared to the others. Granted, mine is the highest mile one I've drove.
Last edited by zoopzop; 11-21-2018 at 11:48 AM.
Reason: Can't get the fuckin' pics to work lol
i'll still complete the 3x3 to have it fresh, then leave it alone. i notice it shifts smoothly in manual mode so now I'm thinking it's some computer related thing or the computer is fine and the programming they use just sucks or wasn't programmed for super smooth seemless shifting idk i'm out here dumbfounded. just found some rust on the rear i'm researching as well in the mean time. next to muffler next to other sides muffler, wtf is that anyway
Noticed a 2G parked in front of the 3G TL.......have both as well, much happier with the 2G, but I’m more old fashion, don’t care for all the bells and whistles!!!!!
Yep, just took the 2G out to wash it and take pictures. Seat are softer and the trans shifts better but I cannot stand the 90's look. Also the stock woofer is better in the 2G. Unfortunately my 2G TL STINKS like a mechanics shop from this one time a mechanic had the car for 2 months. It's worth mentioning that the 2G's transmission was rebuilt 97k miles ago. Probably why it shifts better since the 3G TL's trans has not been rebuilt and it's at 180k miles. Hopefully my 3G's trans is at least good for another 20k miles, maybe I'll get lucky and it'll last to 250k lol. Funnily enough the 3G's transmission is cheaper than the 2001's on eBay. My 2G has a ton of little issues. Makes random turn signal noise, pulls to the left, leaks oil and power steering fluid, rusty, stinks. My 2G was treated very poorly compared to the 3G which is in crazy good shape considering how shitty the leather is in 07/08 lol
11-14-2018, 01:21 PM
I wouldn't...
thanks. I'm trying to find a place that will do a drain and fill without charging me out the ass. Unfortunately it's really cold and snowy here now so I don't want to do it. The QuickLube place told me there isn't a filter on that transmission and they'd have to look up how much it'd they'd charge me to do it. The shop I had replace the clutch oil pressure sensors is saying $189 for FLUSH or $240 for a 3X3. They also said there isn't a transmission filter for the 2007 TL. The guy at the shop told me he wants to check it for codes before he does a flush or 3X3. He was adamant that he's never seen a transmission (that didn't have issues before) blow after a flush. Right now my fluid is a tan color and I can feel up shifts. Before I replaced the clutch oil pressure sensors I couldn't feel any upshifts. This leads me to believe that the trans itself is fine and now that the sensors work I can feel it because the fluid isn't up to spec in terms of viscosity which would cause me to feel up shifts? Still a little rough out of 3rd into 2nd but no where near as bad as it was before I changed the sensors.
It happens.
