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Best oil for '07 TL Type S

 
Old 04-17-2010, 11:15 AM
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API Certified dino oil in any car i've owned in the past 20 years. even in cars that i've used on track or abused never showed any abnormal engine wear with regular motor oil. these are mass produced low tolerance engines... including the TL engines.
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Old 04-19-2010, 01:40 AM
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I'd be more concerned about other fluids. Like Tranny Fluid. Engine oil, every 3-5k change out w/ the filter and you should be fine... even at places like jiffy lube. They use Penzoil if I'm not mistaken.
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Old 04-19-2010, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by kidrocking79 View Post
I'd be more concerned about other fluids. Like Tranny Fluid. Engine oil, every 3-5k change out w/ the filter and you should be fine... even at places like jiffy lube. They use Penzoil if I'm not mistaken.
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Old 04-19-2010, 10:13 AM
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^ - No worse than the dealer
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Old 04-19-2010, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by tech_rcd View Post
Amsoil is the only oil that is ever inside anything I own with a motor. With the use of their filters you can safely have extended oil change intervals which saves you money and helps the environment. Please don't take my word for it do your own research. There is no better oil.
Actually these are the only oils that are certified:
Amsoil PCO 15W-40 CI-4/SL
Amsoil XL 10W-30 SM/CF
Amsoil XL 10W-40 SM/CF
Amsoil XL 5W-20 SM/CF*
Amsoil INC XL 5W-30 SM/CF

Originally Posted by S PAW 1 View Post
Amsoil is an extremely trusted name in the oil business, so if they say 25K, they have the evidence to back it up.
Most of us are unwilling to take the risk, so we just use the standard length changes.
I'm sure we will hear more on this in the near future.
Sorry, but got to chuckle on this one. From their site:

AMSOIL Ea Oil Filters
Continuing on the path to revolutionize the filtration market, AMSOIL is introducing the new Ea Oil Filter line. Ea Oil Filters feature advanced full synthetic nanofiber technology, making them the highest efficiency filters that are available for the auto/light truck market.

Now they are off the market. Here's the TSB from Amsoil dtd 5-1-09, so it looks as if the defective filter line is expanding:
http://www.sinwal.com/data/TSB_FL-20...01_Toyota1.pdf
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Old 04-19-2010, 04:23 PM
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Actually these are the only oils that are certified:
Amsoil PCO 15W-40 CI-4/SL
Amsoil XL 10W-30 SM/CF
Amsoil XL 10W-40 SM/CF
Amsoil XL 5W-20 SM/CF*
Amsoil INC XL 5W-30 SM/CF
[Quote from Turbonut]

Isn't the Signature Series 0w-30 also certified?

That is the one they hang their hat on for the extended drain interval (if used with the Ea filter)

In regards to the TSB, the sludge problem in limited to Toyota's. Acuras should be in the clear. Note the date of the TSB.

Last edited by S PAW 1; 04-19-2010 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 04-19-2010, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by S PAW 1 View Post
Actually these are the only oils that are certified:
Amsoil PCO 15W-40 CI-4/SL
Amsoil XL 10W-30 SM/CF
Amsoil XL 10W-40 SM/CF
Amsoil XL 5W-20 SM/CF*
Amsoil INC XL 5W-30 SM/CF
[Quote from Turbonut]

Isn't the Signature Series 0w-30 also certified?

That is the one they hang their hat on for the extended drain interval (if used with the Ea filter)

In regards to the TSB, the sludge problem in limited to Toyota's. Acuras should be in the clear. Note the date of the TSB.
The aforementioned oils are the only oils listed on the API site.

Yes, I mentioned that the TSB was from 5-1-09, but they are now pulling more off the shelves, a year later.
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Old 03-17-2014, 10:55 AM
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Question 08 acura tl type s which oil should I use

What kinda oil should I use on my 08 type s?have 78k
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Old 03-17-2014, 11:02 AM
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Old 03-17-2014, 11:33 AM
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I don't have any scientific data to back up the oil I use, but I have always used Mobile 1 synthetic in my vehicles with OEM filters. Never any issues. I do my own oil, screw letting some moron touch my vehicles. And yes there are people that can screw up even oil changes.
For the TL guys asking what oil to use, just use what's recommended 5w20, mobile 1, oem filter. Can't go wrong.
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Old 03-17-2014, 12:19 PM
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True...if you go to Jiffy Lube. I've dealt with Jiffy Lube before (just for a code lookup) - I wouldn't trust them with a car wash.
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Old 03-17-2014, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by upcitykrew View Post
What kinda oil should I use on my 08 type s?have 78k
20w-50. The 20wt is what the factory specifies and the 50w is after it gets hot for more protection plus 50 is closer to 78 which is your mileage.

Last edited by I hate cars; 03-17-2014 at 01:53 PM.
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Old 03-17-2014, 01:51 PM
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I wonder if that should have been in red lol.
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:30 PM
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:45 PM
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Holy shit
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Old 03-17-2014, 04:52 PM
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Whatever is on sale, for example I just picked up 18 qts of [some major brand that I can't remember] full-synthetic for $3/qt after mail-in rebate at Menards. If nothing's on sale then Wal-Mart's full-synthetic house brand for ~$17 for four or five quarts. 5w20 for summer, 0w20 for winter. I will probably start using Denso filters but have used Fram or Purolator in the past.
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Old 03-17-2014, 05:02 PM
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Wally world synthetic bar none
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Old 03-17-2014, 05:02 PM
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Just let the dealer do it. You can usually (at least around here) find a coupon for a $25-$35 oil change which is either cheaper than or the same as my cost for parts/oil alone. I used to change the oil in my BMW because the dealer charged an arm and a leg (~$100) to do the work but for less than $35, I couldn't be bothered.
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Old 03-17-2014, 05:12 PM
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Sure if you like to wait 2 hours for the lowest guy on the totem pole to fuck up your drain plug / bolt, fill with some cheap "syn" if that, and and use the cheapest filter.
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Old 03-17-2014, 05:22 PM
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^ I wouldn't take it to a jiffy lube but a dealer would use the OEM parts and I'm ok with that. Also, if they fuck up the drain plug, they get to deal with it the next time.
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Old 03-17-2014, 07:05 PM
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Veggie oil the best
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Old 03-17-2014, 07:25 PM
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Amsoil signature series
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Old 03-17-2014, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by pearl905 View Post
Amsoil signature series
Why?
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Old 03-17-2014, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SamDoe1 View Post
^ I wouldn't take it to a jiffy lube but a dealer would use the OEM parts and I'm ok with that. Also, if they fuck up the drain plug, they get to deal with it the next time.
Not necessarily, it's a maintenance item. You wouldn't be the first they charged for a new drain bolt / oil pan even though you had proof that they did the lasts changes. Also, have you seen a fucking honda filter cut apart? Shit is garbage. Might as well stuff a sock in soda can.
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Old 03-18-2014, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars View Post
Why?
easier for me to acquire and I get Amsoil products at wholesale cost. and cause of there extended drain intervals. I'm not saying is the best oil out there but it keeps my engine happy
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Old 03-18-2014, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by pearl905 View Post
easier for me to acquire and I get Amsoil products at wholesale cost. and cause of there extended drain intervals. I'm not saying is the best oil out there but it keeps my engine happy
You're right, it is a good oil. I was just wondering what your reasons were. I tried it when it first came out but I was too afraid to try an extended drain interval.
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Old 03-18-2014, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by pearl905 View Post
easier for me to acquire and I get Amsoil products at wholesale cost.
Well.. since you suggested the newb to use it, you going to pass down the savings.
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Old 03-18-2014, 08:36 AM
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I'm located in Canada , if he wanna pay for tax and shipping I have no problem taking orders it's up to the buyer
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Old 03-18-2014, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars View Post
You're right, it is a good oil. I was just wondering what your reasons were. I tried it when it first came out but I was too afraid to try an extended drain interval.
i did it back in 2012, changed the filter midway. after a year the oil was still a golden brown an still held its viscosity, didn't experience any engine ticking or abnormal noises or smells. but after that Ive changed it every 4-5 months just cause I like to keep the oil n filter fresher.
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Majofo View Post
Not necessarily, it's a maintenance item. You wouldn't be the first they charged for a new drain bolt / oil pan even though you had proof that they did the lasts changes. Also, have you seen a fucking honda filter cut apart? Shit is garbage. Might as well stuff a sock in soda can.
No I've never seen one cut apart. Care to post a picture? What about them makes you say "shit is garbage"?
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Old 03-18-2014, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by SamDoe1 View Post
No I've never seen one cut apart. Care to post a picture? What about them makes you say "shit is garbage"?
When I bought the TL, it had a honda filter on it. First oil change I cut that sucker apart. It had a anti-drainback valve, spring clamps and a cardboard filter media. It didn't seem much better than a cheap fram filter. I wouldn't trust it past 3k miles. If you use their filters and run a decent oil for a long OCI, I'd at minimum change the filter in between.
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Old 03-18-2014, 10:33 AM
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The one I cut open didn't look as good.. spacing of the filter media was more sparse and erratic

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Old 03-18-2014, 10:36 AM
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Only company I trust that makes a decent filter is champ labs. Same maker of KN, M1 and RP. The RP filters will last 12k miles without a hitch as long as you have decent intake filtration and run a good oil.
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Old 03-18-2014, 10:40 AM
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I've never cut open a more finely built / constructed filter. It was a bitch and a half to separate the media filter. I've cut several open for the X and TL at 7k, 10k and 12k miles. Looked pretty much the same. 10 and 12 looked richer / darker but filter construction and media was exactly the same. They're pricey, but well worth it. I still run a M1 filter but change it out in shorter intervals.

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Old 03-18-2014, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Majofo View Post
The one I cut open didn't look as good.. spacing of the filter media was more sparse and erratic

Such sexy hands...
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Old 03-18-2014, 03:15 PM
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Those aren't my hairy mitts..
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Old 03-18-2014, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Majofo View Post
When I bought the TL, it had a honda filter on it. First oil change I cut that sucker apart. It had a anti-drainback valve, spring clamps and a cardboard filter media. It didn't seem much better than a cheap fram filter. I wouldn't trust it past 3k miles. If you use their filters and run a decent oil for a long OCI, I'd at minimum change the filter in between.
You've been around here for a lot longer than me and have a lot more experience on the TL than I do (I've owned one for all of 3 months now) so I'm going to acknowledge this right now and say that I mean no disrespect in what's to come.

We'll lead off with this picture which describes the differences between a Fram filter and a Honda spec filter:



If you look at the picture there are quite a few differences between the two and the picture does point out all of the differences. That said, I don't really care who makes a product as long as it is built to the appropriate standards.

Originally Posted by Majofo View Post
The one I cut open didn't look as good.. spacing of the filter media was more sparse and erratic

This picture shows a used filter which will have erratically spaced media because it has been used. There has been gallons of oil that has flowed through that filter that soften and deform the media but that doesn't mean that it doesn't work. With the flow pattern of an oil filter, with the oil coming up the sides and pushed inwards through the media by means of oil pressure, it doesn't really matter what spacing you see when the filter is dry and in your hands because it'll likely be different when under pressure.

Originally Posted by Majofo View Post
Only company I trust that makes a decent filter is champ labs. Same maker of KN, M1 and RP. The RP filters will last 12k miles without a hitch as long as you have decent intake filtration and run a good oil.
Originally Posted by Majofo View Post
I've never cut open a more finely built / constructed filter. It was a bitch and a half to separate the media filter. I've cut several open for the X and TL at 7k, 10k and 12k miles. Looked pretty much the same. 10 and 12 looked richer / darker but filter construction and media was exactly the same. They're pricey, but well worth it. I still run a M1 filter but change it out in shorter intervals.

Just because it was a pain to take apart does not make it a better filter. I can probably make you one that's damn near impossible to disassemble and would be utter crap at filtration but I understand the aspect of quality you're after.

Next on to the claims of the filter...which should be fun:
Thicker Shell - Why? According to this it's because these don't get punctured by road debris. Well...my OEM one doesn't either so this is a moot point and a waste of money.

Metal End Caps - Metal is one of the worst sealing materials ever conceived by man, why this is touted as a method for "positive sealing" is beyond me. Additionally, there aren't any engines out there that generate so much oil pressure that it would pass by the "normal" paper end caps without blowing something else up along the way.

Center Tube - Again, there aren't any engines out there that generate so much oil pressure that it collapses the center tube without blowing something else up along the way.

Bypass Valve - This is present on the Honda filter as well, shouldn't be needed but it's there in case of emergency.

Anti Drainback Valve - Again, this is present on the Honda filter. The fact that nitrile lasts longer means nothing if you're swapping these out every 5k miles. If your oil filter is full of oil when you change it then there's no reason to fork over extra money for silicone since the anti-drainback is working fine at the end of its service life. FWIW, Honda filters have silicone anyway.

Steel Backplate - For burst strength? Really? What kind of pressure are you planning on seeing that you need a steel backplate to prevent blowing your oil filter up? This is marketing and a good way to sell stuff, that's it. Not to mention that the gauge of steel is quite thin on these and you're more likely to blow the seal from the backplate to the shell than the backplate itself.

Filter Element - Ah the part we all came to read so I saved best for last. Let's begin with the superior filtration comment. How do you propose we get superior filtration while keeping flow restriction low? The only way to get more filtration is to have a finer screen which therefore increases flow restriction. That's the way a filter works and no amount of marketing lingo will change that. The fact that's it's synthetic vs paper is the only part that could possible make a difference and that's only to prevent the breakdown of the filter media and nothing else. I've seen a couple OF cut opens showing the filter totally breaking down but those were fairly long OCI's and were a fairly rare occurrence.

I will, however, leave you with this. Honda spent hundreds of millions in engine development costs over the years to develop their engines and engine oils to perform the way they want and to maintain their reputation as a reliable car brand, that's how they sell their cars. Of those tens of millions, they probably dropped a few million into the development of the appropriate oil filtration system. What makes you think that they got it wrong?

Also, putting in a super duper heavy duty oil filter is like putting race gas in your street TL. Will it hurt? No, but you're just wasting money.
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Old 03-18-2014, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by SamDoe1 View Post
How do you propose we get superior filtration while keeping flow restriction low?
Increase the media surface area.

Originally Posted by SamDoe1 View Post
The only way to get more filtration is to have a finer screen which therefore increases flow restriction.
Only if the media surface area is constant.
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Old 03-18-2014, 06:57 PM
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You're so delusional it's pathetic..

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Old 03-18-2014, 07:03 PM
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At least I kept you busy in your otherwise uneventful day at work
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