View Poll Results: best brand of oil for tl
penzoil
13
6.60%
vaseline
19
9.64%
mobil
114
57.87%
other
51
25.89%
Voters: 197. You may not vote on this poll
Best brand of oil
05-08-2012, 12:13 PM
#41
I voted for Vaseline. Keeps all my engine's rods well lubed. Of course, petroleum jelly liquifies at around 100* F, and then the vapors become flammable. That quickly becomes something of downer for my engine. The rods quickly heat up and then blow. Causes premature explosion. ....and I don't even want to discuss how Vaseline affects the butt dyno...
05-08-2012, 12:15 PM
#42
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
05-08-2012, 02:18 PM
#43
Racer
I read this post and my mind was in the gutter the entire time. All I'm thinking about is how well vaseline keeps your rod lubed, how quickly your rod can heat up and blow, and the premature ejaculation..ermmm..I mean explosion. Oh and how vaseline affects the butt entry...ermmm.. I mean dyno.
And on a more serious note, after everything IHC has written on the subject, I'm about ready to just use SuperTech dino (or whatever's cheapest) and call it a day.
Last edited by Pat04TL; 05-08-2012 at 02:24 PM.
05-08-2012, 02:23 PM
#44
Senior Moderator
5w30 Pennzoil Platinum is what my TL gets. It's cheap when on sale, readily available and good additive pack. I pair it with Bosch Premium oil filter.
Good enough for me as I follow the MID.
Good enough for me as I follow the MID.
05-08-2012, 03:25 PM
#45
Race Director
iTrader: (1)
So what are you guys saying? Those of you who use RL don't follow the MID but instead go to...8,9,10k miles? More?
05-08-2012, 05:25 PM
#48
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Westside!!!!
05-08-2012, 05:26 PM
#49
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Majofo has gone 12k miles.
Of course, if you guys are doing Extended OCI, and using a shitty filter. I suggest you change your filter every 4-5k max.
05-08-2012, 08:18 PM
#51
5w-30 because of the slightly thicker viscosity. Although when the oil is at operating temperature once the car is warmed up there will be hardly any difference whatsoever between the viscosity of 20w vs 30w. The 30w may cause a slight decrease in gas mileage depending on your daily driving. If you take short trips and the car is not running for long, the mileage decrease will effect you more so than if you were taking longer trips and the car was at operating temperature for the majority of the trip in which case the viscosity would be non discernible between the 20w and 30w.
05-19-2012, 06:29 PM
#52
i have used honda, castrol,mobil1,and royal purple
i base my op on performance and nothing else and i rate these as follows
for the first 2-3 weeks after a fresh change mobile1 is the best. followed by castrol.
the performace with royal purple stays the same from the day i put it in to the day i change it again for witch is why it is my fave
the about 1-2 weeks before the oil life hits mobil1 and castrol starts to get noticebly get sluggish.
i like royal purple for the consistant performance. and since i got enough for about 4 oil changes for free with a video i made for them the the high cost really isnt a issue at the moment
i base my op on performance and nothing else and i rate these as follows
for the first 2-3 weeks after a fresh change mobile1 is the best. followed by castrol.
the performace with royal purple stays the same from the day i put it in to the day i change it again for witch is why it is my fave
the about 1-2 weeks before the oil life hits mobil1 and castrol starts to get noticebly get sluggish.
i like royal purple for the consistant performance. and since i got enough for about 4 oil changes for free with a video i made for them the the high cost really isnt a issue at the moment
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DMZ (06-07-2015)
07-27-2012, 10:53 PM
#56
Racer
This stuff all the way! Instead of just changing my oil every few thousand miles, I just disassemble the whole engine and rub everything down with this stuff.
Lol, in all seriousness, I typically just use whatever full synthetic NAPA has on sale. I'm a bit partial to Castrol though, for no other reason other than the fact that I like the look of the container....
07-28-2012, 12:07 AM
#57
Team Owner
I saw this thread and thought surely it was a joke. People are really posting this crap, making a poll, and not listing a single good choice instead of just searching the hundreds of oil threads, some of which have some good factual info.
I've explained it a hundred times. Look up HTHS and look at how it directly relates to engine wear. Look up CAFE and the real reason for it existing if all of the white papers haven't been taken down. Look at what hot idle oil pressure is on a stock J with a 5w-20 vs a 30. Redline is one of the few 20wts I would run since it's very close to a 30wt in hot viscosity and it has an HTHS value higher than most 30wts, even as high as some 40wts. But in my climate, it only gets down to freezing once in a while in the winter and a "cold" start at 5am is 80F. There's no reason not to go with a 30wt over here. It's still thinner than the 20wt with a 60 degree starting temp.
You should cite the source of that test you quoted. Even if the test is in Redline's favor, the wear metals have nothing to do with actual wear. In this case it's comparing the factory fill break-in oil to an aftermarket oil which is not valid. Redline will look terrible in the wear metal department on the first few changes especially on a higher mileage engine because it cleans and removes oxidation. Oxidation shows up as wear metals in this very flawed test.
I've explained it a hundred times. Look up HTHS and look at how it directly relates to engine wear. Look up CAFE and the real reason for it existing if all of the white papers haven't been taken down. Look at what hot idle oil pressure is on a stock J with a 5w-20 vs a 30. Redline is one of the few 20wts I would run since it's very close to a 30wt in hot viscosity and it has an HTHS value higher than most 30wts, even as high as some 40wts. But in my climate, it only gets down to freezing once in a while in the winter and a "cold" start at 5am is 80F. There's no reason not to go with a 30wt over here. It's still thinner than the 20wt with a 60 degree starting temp.
Here's a little factory tested comparison of Redline vs Factory oil
Al- Pistons, 2ppm is normal if not on the higher side. Again, from the clean-up of soft wear metals or additive clash.
Cr- Rings. 1ppm is normal ring wear.
Fe- Valvetrain wear. It is still high since the engine is new, plus a lot of this may be leftover from the factory oil. In addition, there may be some additive clash taking place with the new installation of Redline. Lastly, Redline tends to clean up soft, residue wear metals from the engine which will go into the oil, and make elemental wear values appear high (making you think its wear), when it is simply residue wear metals being cleaned up.
Cu- Bearing overlay (special) in Honda V6. It tends to remain high due to the construction of the bearing overlay, but will drop to more normal levels by 50K.
Pb- Bearings. In this case, it went up because Redline reacts with the bearings. It is normal and will drop eventually.
Sn- Tin, from the bearings. In this case, it may be some slight bearing wear from hard driving or may simply be a lab error.
Ni- From wear at the intake valves, usually present when there is dirt ingestion.
Mo- Molybdenum Disulphide (I think). Known as MoDTC, its used as an anti-oxidant and a friction modifier. Rings also contain some Molybdenum, so 1ppm of this to show up in a MoDTC-free oil is ring wear, which is normal.
B, Ca, Mg, P, Zn- All oil additives. Remember that cheap spectro analysis like this will show that the additive packs are still present even after they are depleted and unable to do their job.
Si- Dirt, silicates (from antifreeze), or an anti-foam agent. In this case, its leftover dirt from the manufacturing process.
Na- Road Salt, Antifreeze, or additive. Mobil is starting to use this now as an additive in their oils, known as sodium sulphonate, and Redline contains small amounts of this.
K- Can be either antifreeze (most common), road salt, or an additive. Redline contains some of this in its additive pack, so this reading is normal.
Mn- Fuel additive, usually the presence of this shows that the rings have not fully seated, and fuel additives are burning past the rings. It should drop to zero unless you're using a fuel that contains a lot of it.
Ba-usually from some type of manufacturing contamination, it should drop to zero
Solids- Shows the amount of blow-by, reflects combustion efficiency, effectiveness of oil filter, and sludge precursors. 0.3% is high for this amount of miles, 0.2% is probably ideal. Its high mainly because new engines do have higher levels of blowby for the first 10K or so before the rings fully seat.
Flash- Shows the volatility of the oil, and it'll drop with contamination. Generally, the target is >400F to keep the oil in a "like new" condition.
TBN- Total Base Number. Reflects the amount of detergency left in the oil. Good indicator of an oil's reserve acid capability, but this is where it gets tricky. Redline's TBN will drop very rapidly, but a 0.0 cutoff with Blackstone Lab's scale is safe. Redline's Ester baseoils will still protect and have the ability to neutralize acids for many miles after the TBN may appear to be depleted. This is different for other oils, however. Remember that many people put too much emphasis on TBN as you must consider other factors as well, such as wear, flashpoint, solids, and viscosity.
Viscosity- Should stay at a solid 20wt, which it is right now. If the viscosity changes by more than one grade, it may be a change indicator.
Al- Pistons, 2ppm is normal if not on the higher side. Again, from the clean-up of soft wear metals or additive clash.
Cr- Rings. 1ppm is normal ring wear.
Fe- Valvetrain wear. It is still high since the engine is new, plus a lot of this may be leftover from the factory oil. In addition, there may be some additive clash taking place with the new installation of Redline. Lastly, Redline tends to clean up soft, residue wear metals from the engine which will go into the oil, and make elemental wear values appear high (making you think its wear), when it is simply residue wear metals being cleaned up.
Cu- Bearing overlay (special) in Honda V6. It tends to remain high due to the construction of the bearing overlay, but will drop to more normal levels by 50K.
Pb- Bearings. In this case, it went up because Redline reacts with the bearings. It is normal and will drop eventually.
Sn- Tin, from the bearings. In this case, it may be some slight bearing wear from hard driving or may simply be a lab error.
Ni- From wear at the intake valves, usually present when there is dirt ingestion.
Mo- Molybdenum Disulphide (I think). Known as MoDTC, its used as an anti-oxidant and a friction modifier. Rings also contain some Molybdenum, so 1ppm of this to show up in a MoDTC-free oil is ring wear, which is normal.
B, Ca, Mg, P, Zn- All oil additives. Remember that cheap spectro analysis like this will show that the additive packs are still present even after they are depleted and unable to do their job.
Si- Dirt, silicates (from antifreeze), or an anti-foam agent. In this case, its leftover dirt from the manufacturing process.
Na- Road Salt, Antifreeze, or additive. Mobil is starting to use this now as an additive in their oils, known as sodium sulphonate, and Redline contains small amounts of this.
K- Can be either antifreeze (most common), road salt, or an additive. Redline contains some of this in its additive pack, so this reading is normal.
Mn- Fuel additive, usually the presence of this shows that the rings have not fully seated, and fuel additives are burning past the rings. It should drop to zero unless you're using a fuel that contains a lot of it.
Ba-usually from some type of manufacturing contamination, it should drop to zero
Solids- Shows the amount of blow-by, reflects combustion efficiency, effectiveness of oil filter, and sludge precursors. 0.3% is high for this amount of miles, 0.2% is probably ideal. Its high mainly because new engines do have higher levels of blowby for the first 10K or so before the rings fully seat.
Flash- Shows the volatility of the oil, and it'll drop with contamination. Generally, the target is >400F to keep the oil in a "like new" condition.
TBN- Total Base Number. Reflects the amount of detergency left in the oil. Good indicator of an oil's reserve acid capability, but this is where it gets tricky. Redline's TBN will drop very rapidly, but a 0.0 cutoff with Blackstone Lab's scale is safe. Redline's Ester baseoils will still protect and have the ability to neutralize acids for many miles after the TBN may appear to be depleted. This is different for other oils, however. Remember that many people put too much emphasis on TBN as you must consider other factors as well, such as wear, flashpoint, solids, and viscosity.
Viscosity- Should stay at a solid 20wt, which it is right now. If the viscosity changes by more than one grade, it may be a change indicator.
07-28-2012, 01:45 AM
#59
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
You know better than to open an oil thread IHC.
07-28-2012, 12:02 PM
#60
I use whatever full synthetic is on sale ever since i got the car back in 2005. Now, about 5-20 or 5-30. Since i live in chicago, winter time can get really really cold and i ran 5-30 once and trust me, it had some hard time to start. So, what i do now is- run 5-30 spring summer time and 5-20 fall and winter time. But i do this because of the chicago winters. Otherwise, i will be running 5-30 at all times.
07-29-2012, 04:55 PM
#61
I read this post and my mind was in the gutter the entire time. All I'm thinking about is how well vaseline keeps your rod lubed, how quickly your rod can heat up and blow, and the premature ejaculation..ermmm..I mean explosion. Oh and how vaseline affects the butt entry...ermmm.. I mean dyno.
07-30-2012, 02:58 AM
#63
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
07-30-2012, 11:42 AM
#65
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
07-30-2012, 05:41 PM
#67
Team Owner
07-30-2012, 05:56 PM
#68
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
04-21-2015, 09:43 PM
#70
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
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sopmodm14 (08-25-2015)
04-22-2015, 06:35 AM
#72
Race Director
04-22-2015, 07:14 AM
#74
Senior Moderator
I find peanut provides a nice crispiness and crunch
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polobunny (04-22-2015)
04-22-2015, 09:42 AM
#75
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
The older the 3G gets.. the dumber it gets in here.. and the bar wasn't set very high to begin with. 
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I hate cars (05-26-2015)
04-22-2015, 10:29 AM
#77
One on the right for me
04-22-2015, 10:58 AM
#78
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
04-22-2015, 11:36 AM
#79
Team Owner
I voted for Vaseline. It always keeps my rods well lubricated.