BMA1078

My 08 TL sounds like the front pads are starting to wear, so I was wondering what you guys recommend/use for brake pads? I thought about just getting some OEM ones, but I was looking for recommendations on some of the ceramic ones.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

it sounds like you want a ceramic pad; a pad that doesnt dust that much and will stop the car.

head to autozone and pick up their Duralast gold cmax pads. Great ceramic pad, that ive installed in my buddies TL's and RL's.
I'm about to install the Cmax golds on my Kia sportage.

the cmax pad stops great!!

But honestly, any pad is a great pad. buy whatever you feel like. they all do the same shit.

BMA1078

Thanks, those sound good.

DuoDSG

+1 for the Duramax Gold Cmax pads.

When I replaced my brakes a few years ago, I got some opinions here on AZ and ended up going with the CMAXes, as suggested.

I haven't yet had to replace them, low dust, no screeching noises, good stopping power. Granted, I haven't tried that many different combinations of brands, but these definitely have performed the best out of the ones I've tried.

Plus

I saved a bundle by installing them myself on a nice spring day. If *I* was able to do it myself, alone, and didn't screw it up, that basically means anyone can. It's a great way to train yourself on how to do this kind of work on your TL (or any car), in case you haven't already!

GKinColo08TL

I also have the CMAX pads on my TL based on some members recommendations...very little dust and the car stops well...

06nhtsx

Centric pads are the best pads for the money. Centric is the maker of stoptech. I have the 104 series on my car now and they stop better then the factory brembo pads. Also much less dust. If you want ceramic look for the centric 105.07870 for regular TL and 105.10010 for brembo brakes.

robocam

Another vote for the Duralast Gold Cmax pads! I like them mainly for their lifetime warranty, but they do last longer than their cheaper versions (my rear Duralast Gold Cmax pads lasted more than twice as long as the regular Duralast pads). I'm not sure about low dust though (maybe they're low dust relative to other pads but I can't tell). If I want my wheels clean, I have to clean them pretty much every day, but the dust cakes on evenly, so you might not notice it for several days.

I hate cars

The true no compromise pad is a sintered pad. No dust, almost impossible to fade. Last almost forever, very gentle on rotors, great cold bite with little to no frictional change from cold to hot. Only problem is finding a set and the $300+ price tag. I'm probably going to install mine before my current pads are worn out.

subinf

I assume non-brembo brakes?

BMA1078

Correct, non brembo brakes.

350

iTrader: (4)

I had a mechanic buddy recommend Centric Posi-Quiet, put them on my wife's car and they rock, no dust, quiet, no fade noticed, and stops great. I'm probably gonna go with them from now on.

felixthecat

I just did my brake pads less than a week ago, and I used Akebono (ACT787 for 5A/T non-Brembo, ACT536 for rear) per someone's comment (I forgot whose) on this forum a while ago. Stops great (tried to get ABS to kick in but it hasn't so far), quiet, and no fade during break-in but I haven't had them on long enough to comment on the dust. The Centric Posi-Quiet ones are dirt-cheap on Amazon compared to the Akebono and recommended by people here, so I'd say go for that.

At any rate, do the job yourself; I knew nothing about how to do brakes, but I watched this video ( ) and spent a rainy day in the garage doing it. It's not hard (requires only a few tools), a great learning experience, and it saved me money.

The video doesn't mention this, and neither could I find it on the forum, but the caliper bolts for the front and back 5A/T should be torqued to 37ft-lbs per the service manual. Not sure about the 6M/T.

tones160

+1

Been using Cmax Golds for a few years and they last for a very long time and almost no dust. It all depends on how you brake of course.

I hate cars

That's great that you're working on your car, it can be very rewarding and most of the time you find out a lot of jobs are not as hard as you thought. Also, those Akebono pads are OEM pads I'm pretty sure. I know Akebono supplies the stock pads. You should have great luck with them.

My fiancée watched me do most of the shock, strut, 4 wheel brake job, and the axle replacements on her car and she was surprised at how easy and how cheap ($600) it was to do what everyone said was a huge job along with a $3,500 quote from the dealer.

What I'm curious about is not being able to hit ABS. If you still can't hit ABS after a few days of break-in I would investigate. It's very important to be able to have full braking when you need it.

aIRpeACE

iTrader: (2)

Wearever Gold Ceramic Brake Pads

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

any idea what company makes one for the tl with brembos? Or should I be looking for evo/sti/350z brembo/g35 brembo pads as those cars usually have more parts options?

nate_0022

iTrader: (2)

I've replaced my brake pads last year, i believe around fall time. I've used Duralast Cmax gold brake pads. Ever since then I could always hear my left side rear tire sounding like the brake is always engage, also it seems like my parking brake doesn't grab at all when I engage it. So right now I have to change my left rear brake pads and rotor because there is no pad left after a year and I will have to investigate why the brake pad wore so fast.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^it seems common on the TL's as there are multitude of threads with your same problem, nate.
the rubber brake hose may have a slight tear in it, causing the rear caliper to stick.
i think if you look at it, it will be rusty.

i think ihc recommends changing the brake fluid often to prevent or to find the problem.

I hate cars

Essex makes sintered pads and they have a pretty good fitment search. If the search comes up empty for the TL, you might find out which pad they actually use and search by pad. I found only two for my Stoptech calipers and they use a very common pad.

I'll post a link to the website when I get home in a few hours.

I hate cars

Changing the fluid probably won't help with a collapsed hose but it will definitely help with the stuck pistons. I guess the rear calipers are a low spot and collect the moisture in the system. Of course, his problem could be the slider pins too.

It's been almost 2 years since I bled the rears, I'm going to take a sample next time just to see how much moisture is in it. I wonder if Blackstone labs does brake fluid. Or I could just use one of the cheap kits just for that purpose.

subinf

For the brembo brakes - I've tried probably six or seven different pads and keep coming back to the OEM ones. Nothing else really compares.

tones160

How oftern you bleed your brakes? . I read before that when changing brake pads is good to bleed the brakes just a little.

nate_0022

iTrader: (2)

I had Motul 5.1 put in the brake lines the previous fall, so fall of 2012 flushed the brake fluid replaced with motul 5.1 and put on drilled and slottled rotors. Fall of 2013 replaced rotors and pads ( I didn't care for the drilled and slotted rotors).

felixthecat

Yeah, I read that Akebono's supply to many OEM so I figure I couldn't go wrong with them.

I hope to be proficient enough to do more major work like you mentioned. The brakes was a big hurdle for me because I was afraid to touch the only things that stopped my car besides a wall. This should be an encouragement to others that are hesitant to touch these major components.

I'm worried about not being able to hit ABS, but only a little since the brakes don't feel like they're slipping under hard braking from 40mph-0. I'll try again in increasing speed increments as I continue the break-in period.

Also, just in case people stumble in this thread later, a wooden block used in the video I linked isn't necessary to clamp the piston back into the caliper; just use the old brake pad.

nokkieny

I don't know much about brake brands, but I got some wagner thermoquiet ceramic off amazon they were about $30 for the set after $30 rebate which is still active.

I hate cars

It seems like a lot of people really like the stock Brembo pads. I pretty much agree with you except when it comes to the sintered pads, they're an entirely different animal.

I hate cars

I try to do mine at least every other year. I don't track the car anymore and the BBK lessens the chances of the fluid boiling so I've gone a little longer than normal lately.

It's always a good idea to open the bleeder when you push the pistons back in when installing new pads. It's a way to push some of the old fluid out instead of back into the reservoir. Actually bleeding the brakes would be better but letting a little fluid (and air) out each time the pads are done is a whole lot better than nothing.

subinf

I'm always looking for options when it comes to the pads. Any specific manufacturers you would suggest? I will be needing new pads in about 2 months.

tones160

I haven't bled mine for almost 3yrs. I'm painting my calipers in about 2 weeks so ill prolly changed pads and bleed the car once and for all.

ExcelerateRep

The Stoptech (Centric - Parent Company) Posi-Quiet Ceramic pads are a great pad if you're looking for a clean and quiet pad. They are cost efficient and they get the job done. If you want a clean and quiet pad, this is a great option. Stoptech carries a pad for the Brembo and the Non-Brembo TL. I have both of those pads in stock at my facility.

The Brembo pad on the TL fits an array of different vehicles. In certain years it fits the Buick Regal, Cadillac ATS CTS STS XTS, Ford Mustang, Genesis Coupe, the Evo's, Pontiac G8, Saab 9-5, WRX STI, and the Volvo S60 and V70. From Stoptech it's the part number ending in 10010. The 3 numbers before the 10010 determine the pad compount.

BMA1078

Thanks for all the recommendations guys. I plan on doing it myself with the YouTube video posted in this thread.