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You can't be assured of anything. It really isn't surprising they have never serviced the transmission fluid. I would say a large majority of people generally don't service their transmission fluid on a regular basis. I know prior to my TL, I don't think I have ever changed transmission fluid in any car I have ever owned unless it was a last ditch effort just before failure.
Out of the majority of my friends...only one I know gets his transmission fluid changed and that was initially since he was a sucker for the up-sell at the oil change place.
If the seller has any type of records showing service history, you can somewhat get an idea of how the overall vehicle was serviced. I wouldn't worry too much about that low of a mileage TL never having the transmission fluid changed. As long as the vehicle itself appears to have been cared for, the oil looks ok, and the price is right, just buy it.
You can't be assured of anything. It really isn't surprising they have never serviced the transmission fluid. I would say a large majority of people generally don't service their transmission fluid on a regular basis. I know prior to my TL, I don't think I have ever changed transmission fluid in any car I have ever owned unless it was a last ditch effort just before failure.
Out of the majority of my friends...only one I know gets his transmission fluid changed and that was initially since he was a sucker for the up-sell at the oil change place.
If the seller has any type of records showing service history, you can somewhat get an idea of how the overall vehicle was serviced. I wouldn't worry too much about that low of a mileage TL never having the transmission fluid changed. As long as the vehicle itself appears to have been cared for, the oil looks ok, and the price is right, just buy it.
Originally Posted by doggydog
Looking to purchase Acura 2007 Type S but mu only concern is transmission oil has never been changed.
This is coming from the seller who is original owner.
This brings another concern and that is if he never changed trans oil , how can I be assured that he did engine oil change in a timely manner?
I would go take a look at it. Pull the dipstick if it's an automatic and look at the colors of fluid and make sure it's full. You can also pull the oil cap off and with a flashlight and look inside the engine, That will tell you a lot. Smell also says a lot. Look in the oil cap itself. Is it black and sludge. Many thing to look at as well as service records.
I would go take a look at it. Pull the dipstick if it's an automatic and look at the colors of fluid and make sure it's full. You can also pull the oil cap off and with a flashlight and look inside the engine, That will tell you a lot. Smell also says a lot. Look in the oil cap itself. Is it black and sludge. Many thing to look at as well as service records.
Any USED car that is being purchased, I ALWAYS drop ALL fluids and change it myself or have it done at a trustworthy shop. Unless the seller has paper work showing ALL fluids have been dropped at the local stealership within 3mo. Other than that I never trust any previous owner esp used car dealerships unless they are a very close friend/relative. You should always just swap in your own preferred fluids anyhow since the car is used and you have no idea what the previous owner did.
another fluid that no one EVER changes is the brake fluid.
I've seen 200,000 mile cars that have never changed brake fluid.
brake fluid absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and can cause rusty brake lines or stuck calipers.
another fluid that no one EVER changes is the brake fluid.
I've seen 200,000 mile cars that have never changed brake fluid.
brake fluid absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and can cause rusty brake lines or stuck calipers.
mine got replace annually since Htown give you a lot of sweat.
another fluid that no one EVER changes is the brake fluid.
I've seen 200,000 mile cars that have never changed brake fluid.
brake fluid absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and can cause rusty brake lines or stuck calipers.
like mine. haha
i backed out of my garage 1 day last week and when I let me foot off the brake, I heard a clunk. It was the right rear brake caliper sticking. So, I was like hmmm.. oh brakes... what are you telling me.. So, this morning I look at the brake fluid in the reservoir and it is green. haha So i evacuated the reservoir and put in new dot3. I have the russel bleeder valves but I have not done it yet. I'm afraid of tapping the hydrualics and having only 1 car and 1 man. Plus I heard that the bleeder valves can rust. But who knows if mine are. I'm just weary about doing it without a 2nd set of wheels. Also, I know the brake fluid circulates because the reservoir is dirty. And only 1 way that can happen is by circulation. So I think if I just keep doing it, it will replenish the brake fluid. Anyway, I did the evac once last year, but I need to keep it up a few more times. sitting at 91k miles. never had brake fluid tapped since 2005. I'm skeeerd haha and this is the guy who has done ball joints, bearings, inner and outer tie rods and stuff. Is that sad or what..
Also, I know the brake fluid circulates because the reservoir is dirty. And only 1 way that can happen is by circulation.
Ummm...no, it does not circulate. The lines leave the ABS module and go to each caliper. There is no return. There is no circulation.
Also to note...on my '05, I just did a flush/bleed in the garage this past fall using the $7 one-man bleeding kit from the local auto parts store. The bleeders were just fine with no rust and no issues.
one time i changed oil in my old 2001 TL, 2 month later transmission dies, tranmisison shop guy told me its no recommended changing oils ever, that why BMW transmissions are sealed, i had 2004 TL for 120k never changed transmission oil 0 problems
actually yes it does. Every time you press the pedal it pushes fluid into the lines... and then when you release the pedal it draws it back out. That is why the reservoir gets dirty, because it Does get circulated. Its not because of "air".
Circulate would be a circular motion within the system....as in there is an actual loop....there is no loop. Yes some fluid may leave the master cylinder and make into the lines and come back out...but for the most part all of the fluid in the lines that go back to the caliper is pretty much static and stays there until you bleed/flush the entire system.
Originally Posted by restron
one time i changed oil in my old 2001 TL, 2 month later transmission dies, tranmisison shop guy told me its no recommended changing oils ever, that why BMW transmissions are sealed, i had 2004 TL for 120k never changed transmission oil 0 problems
Again...horrible advice. You know, one time I put air in my tires, and I got a flat. I will never put air in my tires again.
one time i changed oil in my old 2001 TL, 2 month later transmission dies, tranmisison shop guy told me its no recommended changing oils ever, that why BMW transmissions are sealed, i had 2004 TL for 120k never changed transmission oil 0 problems
Clearly you have no idea what the hell you are talking about.
Clearly you have no idea what the hell you are talking about.
find me one acura, with failed transmission on 120k that that never had transmission oil changed. transmission oil changes fuckup transmision, especially of you purchased used car and dont know what maintenance was done
find me one acura, with failed transmission on 120k that that never had transmission oil changed. transmission oil changes fuckup transmision, especially of you purchased used car and dont know what maintenance was done
If you have never changed the transmission fluid in your vehicle and have more than 100,000 miles on the odometer, should you change it now?some mechanics suggesting you should just leave well alone if you aren't having shifting problems.
If you have never changed the transmission fluid in your vehicle and have more than 100,000 miles on the odometer, should you change it now?some mechanics suggesting you should just leave well alone if you aren't having shifting problems.
clearly you have no idea what you are talking about
Oh touché. Care to share with us your educational and professional background which qualifies you to make such absurd statements regarding never changing ATF?
And before you ask, I am a consulting engineer with decades of experience and have done high level failure and remediation analysis for three automotive manufacturers.
one time i changed oil in my old 2001 TL, 2 month later transmission dies, tranmisison shop guy told me its no recommended changing oils ever, that why BMW transmissions are sealed, i had 2004 TL for 120k never changed transmission oil 0 problems
you shouldn't do a FLUSH on honda/acura transmissions is probably what the guy meant... ANY AND ALL fluids NEEDS to be changed out at some point.. honda/acura recommends a drain and fill only unless youre rebuilding a tranny
if you really believe its safe to use the same tranny fluid for 200k+ miles, then i REALLY hope you stick to that advice with all your other future cars as well.. I also hope you encourage your family members with that same advice with their cars.. just tell them it has to be right because some guy in a tranny shop agreed with you
this forum is filled with knowledgeable car enthusiasts, most that know more than the general population of people that own cars.. so don't expect to say some retarded bull shit like that and NOT expect to get called out.. it's not okay to say dumb shit like dont change your ATF ever unless you have problems because other new comers that really dont have a clue will read your statement and think its true
Last edited by champaned_out; 03-17-2018 at 09:32 PM.
If you do a drain and fill, that is 3 quarts for those who are new to this site. And the entire system holds 9 quarts I think. So, 1 drain and refill is the safest way to go. And by the way, the transmission needs a little bit of time to adjust after a drain and fill. Such as while idling, traverse through drive and reverse and neutral and let it idle. Then drive really slowly around the block a few times so it can relearn. I had to do that once. It would not go into reverse or drive! Scared me like that cat up there.. So, I just slowly worked it for 15 minutes and and then went for several trips around my block so I did not drive out too far in case it totally broke. And it was fine. Just takes time to relearn. But that is with a single drain and fill .. I couldn't imagine doing a full Flush.
I'm going to resurrect the thread here since my question is relevant.
I just picked up an 07 Type S with 130k. Previous owner bought it two years ago at 80k and drove it all over for work. He had the timing belt/water pump done at 105k, but other than oil changes, hasn't touched a thing. He also didn't know anything about prior service records to him purchasing it. I'll be replacing all fluids, spark plugs, looks like the PCV valve is supposed to be replaced, and doing some thorough cleaning of the car inside and out. I also have a 2006 MDX so I'm familiar with all the Honda transmission fun, thus why I came to check with you guys.
What's the recommended fluid on these? Stick with factory or something different? According to Chad05 the system holds 9 quarts but a drain and fill only replaces 3 quarts, so you'd need to do multiple changes to replace all the fluid. Is this recommended?
I'm going to resurrect the thread here since my question is relevant.
I just picked up an 07 Type S with 130k. Previous owner bought it two years ago at 80k and drove it all over for work. He had the timing belt/water pump done at 105k, but other than oil changes, hasn't touched a thing. He also didn't know anything about prior service records to him purchasing it. I'll be replacing all fluids, spark plugs, looks like the PCV valve is supposed to be replaced, and doing some thorough cleaning of the car inside and out. I also have a 2006 MDX so I'm familiar with all the Honda transmission fun, thus why I came to check with you guys.sh
What's the recommended fluid on these? Stick with factory or something different? According to Chad05 the system holds 9 quarts but a drain and fill only replaces 3 quarts, so you'd need to do multiple changes to replace all the fluid. Is this recommended?
I did some more reading, notably here and here regarding a 3x3 walkthrough and the general forum how-to on transmission fluid. Sounds like you can stick to either Honda fluid or do a mixture of fluids, and going off the how-to, it doesn't sound like it's any issue to go ahead and do the '3x3'. However, is this any different on the Type S or is the transmission the exact same?
Same method for typeS . I would stick with dw1 Honda/Acura fluid. I just did another 3x1 fluid swap and I think I will be good for a long while because it's been a while since I did it last and yet, I could still see some red in the fluid that I drained. Too much mixing is not good. Stick with dw1. I had too much racing fluid at one time and my car didn't like it. So all I have been doing now is blending back in the dw1.
I too did the brake fluid bleeding. Just siphoning out the old fluid in the reservoir and replacing with new helps more than you would think. I also installed new pads and 2 new front rotors. Brakes like new. Very sensitive.
also I have seen these cars with 260k miles and 309k in a salvage yard that was wrecked. So 130k with a new belt is good. Hopefully that guy did the water pump too and I think there is something else in there. I didn't do my own timing belt.
I think you can edit up to 10 minutes or so..Maybe 5. I don't know.
Same method for typeS . I would stick with dw1 Honda/Acura fluid. I just did another 3x1 fluid swap and I think I will be good for a long while because it's been a while since I did it last and yet, I could still see some red in the fluid that I drained. Too much mixing is not good. Stick with dw1. I had too much racing fluid at one time and my car didn't like it. So all I have been doing now is blending back in the dw1.
I too did the brake fluid bleeding. Just siphoning out the old fluid in the reservoir and replacing with new helps more than you would think. I also installed new pads and 2 new front rotors. Brakes like new. Very sensitive.
also I have seen these cars with 260k miles and 309k in a salvage yard that was wrecked. So 130k with a new belt is good. Hopefully that guy did the water pump too and I think there is something else in there. I didn't do my own timing belt.
I think you can edit up to 10 minutes or so..Maybe 5. I don't know.
Thanks for the response. They limit editing ability when you're a new member, but that's understandable.
I have a lot of confidence in this being a good car for a long time, but fresh fluids are of course a key part of that. This is my third Acura and my luck so far has been excellent. The previous owner literally kept the old timing belt and water pump, and he's a cousin of a close friend, and said friend trusts him so I rather doubt he went to a junkyard to fake the replacement of them.
I'll be doing brake fluid, coolant, and looks like a 3x3 with Honda fluids this weekend. If the power steering fluid looks fine I'll leave it, else I'll have a shop take care of that.
Just siphoning out the old fluid in the reservoir and replacing with new helps more than you would think.
Not criticizing your statement, but just wanted to add that the major problem arises inside the caliper where condensation accumulates. As the condensation is prevalent at the bottom of the caliper, the lower pistons (on a multiple piston caliper) get attacked first.
Best to remove the old fluid from the calipers to be certain. Don't forget, the Brembo's have 2 bleeders on the front opposed to the base, only one bleeder.
Not criticizing your statement, but just wanted to add that the major problem arises inside the caliper where condensation accumulates. As the condensation is prevalent at the bottom of the caliper, the lower pistons (on a multiple piston caliper) get attacked first.
Best to remove the old fluid from the calipers to be certain. Don't forget, the Brembo's have 2 bleeders on the front opposed to the base, only one bleeder.
So I'm assuming bleeding the front brakes on the Type S is the same as any other vehicle, just be sure to run some fluid through the second bleeder valve?
I don't know what the 2nd bleeder valve is. But sure, bleed the brakes for best results, like any other car. And i would only do 1 drain and fill of the transmission fluid at a time. To let the tranny adjust itself slowly. I would just do 1 drain and fill every 2 or 3 days (assuming you drive it everyday) for safety and plus I think it takes a little while for the fluid to get fully circulated.
So I found this link on the whole pressure sensor issue (he's got some other great stuff in there too). Are these pretty common to replace as preventative maintenance?
So I found this link on the whole pressure sensor issue (he's got some other great stuff in there too). Are these pretty common to replace as preventative maintenance?
Its a preventative maint, mine shift was harsh from 3rd to 4th and down shift from 3rd to 2nd (even after 5x3 ATF change)
So I found this link on the whole pressure sensor issue (he's got some other great stuff in there too). Are these pretty common to replace as preventative maintenance?
Yes, go ahead and replace the pressure sensors while you're at it. The 07/08 transmissions have 3 sensors. There's a pretty good DIY on the forum for it.
01-24-2018, 07:24 PM
