summerayu

Just share with you guys with some of my experiences. I am kinda of a car noob and have just started to work on my TL a couple of months back.

Have replaced brake caliper, rotor, pad and stuff. Also started doing the oil change myself since I don't really trust some shops and it would be cheaper anyway.

Saw a deal from Advance Auto Parts with 20 dollars off 50 or more purchase. The total cost of the spark plugs is 40 bucks.

You definitely need to take off the strut bar to get access to the rear ones. Six bolts to take off for the swaybar. Make sure you also take off two other bolts securing the right fusebox and a cable holder. On the left, another bolt for a cable holder. Then the swaybar will come right off

Use 6" extension socket to take them out.

I did the rear threes first and then the front threes.

For the front driver side one, you need to take the coolant reservoir off to get access, pretty easy job.

Even though I found out NKG doesn't recommend using AntiSeize on these spark plugs. I still put some on, but not to the top threads.
This is their link.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-...1antisieze.pdf

Make sure the Spark Plug Torque is 13 lbs ft.

Here are some of the pictures.

Also, it should be a good idea to seafoam the engine before changing the spark plugs. I did it twice, once two months back, once today before changing.

These are some of the pictures.
The old plugs are not really bad but still 6 years old and 92k miles already.

I drove 20 miles after changing on highway with average 34MPG, very satisfied with the results. The throttle can be felt a little bit when accelerating. It's 6MT but I don't do shots so might not feel a big difference.

summerayu

Also be careful not to drop this guy, even though I don't know what it is.

Can anyone tell me what it is? Fuel Injector?

There is a big round cap thing on the left side.

I accidentally pushed it and dropped it into the compartment when removing one spark plug in the back. But fortunately found it and grab it using a torchlight. My arm hurts now

Anyway, hope it helps, guys!

MandoTL

I just bought 6 tonight from Autozone but no rebate type promotion. Total price: $66.08 incl. Anti-Sieze .14OZ But plan to get them done first thing tomorrow morning.

My dad wants me to seriously order parts through CarQuest for my car since I can get a mechanic discount using my uncle's mechanic shop to save me money that I could use for the college school yr. But I am worried that they wont be any better as far as prices go, but my curiosity is going to get me to my local Carquest and ask what their pricing is.

My uncle will give me discount on labor since I will tackle the front but he will do the back ones.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Good job summer!!!

tl_from_hell

Why didn't u wait till your 105k and about the sea foam it's not reccomeneded..

summerayu

Saw the deal and thinks it shoudn't be a bad idea to change them with better results. It's been 6+ years, just like someone change the timing belt earlier than 105K. I saw I lot of members here changed their spark plugs around 60K. I plan to keep the car for 5-6 years. So it should be fine to change it a little bit earlier.

Why is Seafoam not recommended? I know I lot of people used it here in this forum.

summerayu

For the back one, it's not that hard. Just make sure you remove the sway bar then everything is the same as the front ones.

Good luck and FYI, the deal on Advance Auto Parts is still going on till 08/31

MandoTL

Well I bought them already so dont have time to get it done later. leave to San Diego for school on Saturday. So I wont be back home to get this done since I trust him with my car and he does a great job

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

Seafoam doesn't do anything. They're a lot of people that use it, but, at the same time, all of them are getting duped.

LaCostaRacer

Great writeup! Thanks

mau108

Thanks op, added to the Garage under A-122 section.

Eternal 28

If i buy these NGK's from Advance auto parts do I have to gap them or did you just install them as is? Thanks

SpiderX1016

They usually come gapped already but I would double check with one of those gap tools you can get for a buck.
I just put them all side by side and eye-ball it. Not accurate but I've had no problems.

cinobyte

They are pre-gapped just put some in

VanyDotK

iTrader: (6)

If I remember correctly, you're not supposed to gap iridium plugs, it will damage them.

*Edit you can gap them, don't use the coin style gapper.

connork53

iTrader: (1)

Great write up!!

IntactACK

iTrader: (1)

You should always check the gap size.....they are not set for every car correctly, of course they will run fine without it, but this is a huge part of your engine. Just check them its so simple. Your seafoaming your car but not checking the gaps on plugs? cmon. smaller the gap/stronger the spark, bigger gap/bigger/weaker spark. When we used to turbo cars I would get misfires if we didn't shorten the gap up from the stock recommended gap.