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A-110(a): DIY Guide to replacing 3rd & 4th gear pressure switch for 3G TL (2004-2006)

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A-110(a): DIY Guide to replacing 3rd & 4th gear pressure switch for 3G TL (2004-2006)

 
Old 11-21-2011, 05:24 PM
  #361  
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does anyone want to do this for my 01 honda accord v6?

Houston TX.

PM ME.

I need this done.
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Old 11-26-2011, 12:44 PM
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After continuing to feel the pulsating trannt shift and reading the threat of this becoming a expensive repair in the near future due to complete failure of the AT... I pulled the trigger and made my purchases neccessary per this thread...
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/
Thanks for the informative write up!
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Old 11-26-2011, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by corrado85 View Post
does anyone want to do this for my 01 honda accord v6?

Houston TX.

PM ME.

I need this done.
Where in Hou are you located?
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Old 11-28-2011, 11:38 PM
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I have a 2004 TL and want to know is there in place in Kansas City or if someone in Kansas City will be willing to do this for me when I get my part in?
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Old 11-29-2011, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by sparkleRed View Post
I have a 2004 TL and want to know is there in place in Kansas City or if someone in Kansas City will be willing to do this for me when I get my part in?
On the 04 it is a piece of cake.
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Old 12-01-2011, 11:53 PM
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Can this only be done to the 3rd and 4th? Because I bought a 2005 Acura Tl with 108k and now almost 118k. When I take off in sport mode, shifting from 2nd to 3rd, I want to say it "slips" and doesn't engaged into 3rd quickly. Would I need to buy a 2nd gear pressure switch (if there is one) or a 3rd pressure switch?
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Old 12-03-2011, 11:05 AM
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Did this on my '06 and it helped out a lot.
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Old 12-03-2011, 11:42 AM
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Just got done with mine this morning... WORKS PERFECT NOW! Instant fix! I am so happy!
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Old 12-03-2011, 02:14 PM
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QUESTION: when changing the fluid (with the switches or without...) is there any shavings found on the fluid drain magnet? or is this found only when changing the switches from damage starting? Because my magnet had hair shavings on it and I know some makes/models then can be normal to some extent, is this the case with the Acura TL? Or is this damage starting to take its toll from the switches going bad?... Either way, like I said above, WORKS GREAT! and shifts with fluid motion and feel!
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Old 12-04-2011, 12:23 AM
  #370  
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^ Having fine metal needles on the drain plug is very normal when using Z1 ATF. If you use any of the Redline fluids, you will not have metal on the drain plug.
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Inaccurate View Post
^ Having fine metal needles on the drain plug is very normal when using Z1 ATF. If you use any of the Redline fluids, you will not have metal on the drain plug.
Got It! Thanks!
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Old 12-04-2011, 11:33 AM
  #372  
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Originally Posted by sparkleRed View Post
I have a 2004 TL and want to know is there in place in Kansas City or if someone in Kansas City will be willing to do this for me when I get my part in?
I may be able to help you out. Shoot me a PM
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Old 12-04-2011, 03:17 PM
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Mods: Is there anyway to take post 303 from this thread and make a seperate DIY in the garage for '07 and '08 owners? Saves us from reading through 30 pages to get what we need.

Well I changed out the 3 pressure switches on an '08 TLS in about an hour and 45 minutes. I also did a 1X3 yesterday. The transmission shifts as smooth as silk now. Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread, especially RaviNJCLs who laid everything out for those of us with '07 and '08 models.

After putting these things in I am certian that the people who built these cars have small hands and are left handed. Man stuff was tight getting to these things. Here are some tips for people with big hands. On the second switch remove the bracket in front of the switch ( 2 10mm bolts). On the third switch do yourself a favor and remove the fuse box and swing it to the side. No need t remove the hose once you do this, plenty of room.

Last but not least be careful with the gasket washers. They are aluminum and can't be retrieved with a magnet if you drop it down in the engine. This will require a special tool called a "6 year old". On the last switch I dropped the new washer down on top of the transmission. I lifted my son on top of the motor and told him I'd give him a fruit rollup if he could get it out for me. Worked like a charm.

Originally Posted by RaviNJCLs View Post
I used the information that was posted by JDM RICe. His pics are a lot better than mine so I stole some of them.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...&postcount=195

Parts and Tools Needed/Recommended:

2 x 28600-RKE-004
1 x 28610-RKE-004
3 x 90471-PW7-A00
10 mm Socket
7/8 Deep Socket
Screwdrivers
Breaker Bar (PLEASE BE CAREFUL WHEN USING BREAKER BAR)

I started with the sensor on the bottom of the transmission.



I accessed the sensor through the driver side wheel well. Remove tire. Please use jack stands for support.



Once the cover was moved you will see a wire harness and a couple plugs.



I unplugged the ones marked above and when you move the harness out of the way you will see the sensor.



Be careful when removing the sensor. I used a deep 7/8 socket and a 16 inch extension. I did not need to use a breaker bar for this sensor. When you remove the sensor there will be some transmission fluid that leaks out. Wipe clean before replacing the sensor.

DO NOT FORGET THE GASKET.



Plug everything back in and DOUBLE CHECK before mounting the wheel and lowering your car.

Second one I did was the one under the intake. Removing the intake is simple. My pics sucked again.



This one was very simple. I did not need to remove the 10 mm bolts above, but it will not hurt to remove them. Again I used a 7/8 deep socket and a 3 inch extension. I did use a breaker bar for this one.

The last one I did was the sensor in the back of the transmission.



I removed the hose in the image below to get a bit more room to get my hands down to the sensor. It is tough to see in the pics but that sensor is about 12 inches from the top of the engine.





Overall it took me about 2 hours to replace the three sensors. I also did a 1x3 this weekend.

I drove about 150 miles since I replaced the fluid and the sensors. The up and down shifting is a lot smoother than before. When I floor it the shifting is a lot cleaner. I have 2 long road trips this week and I will have a better chance to test it out.

I also realized that I need to learn how to use my camera better.
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:36 PM
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^^^ "6 Year Old".
Effing hilarious!!!
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Old 12-05-2011, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by TecSavi View Post
Mods: Is there anyway to take post 303 from this thread and make a seperate DIY in the garage for '07 and '08 owners? Saves us from reading through 30 pages to get what we need.

Well I changed out the 3 pressure switches on an '08 TLS in about an hour and 45 minutes. I also did a 1X3 yesterday. The transmission shifts as smooth as silk now. Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread, especially RaviNJCLs who laid everything out for those of us with '07 and '08 models.

After putting these things in I am certian that the people who built these cars have small hands and are left handed. Man stuff was tight getting to these things. Here are some tips for people with big hands. On the second switch remove the bracket in front of the switch ( 2 10mm bolts). On the third switch do yourself a favor and remove the fuse box and swing it to the side. No need t remove the hose once you do this, plenty of room.

Last but not least be careful with the gasket washers. They are aluminum and can't be retrieved with a magnet if you drop it down in the engine. This will require a special tool called a "6 year old". On the last switch I dropped the new washer down on top of the transmission. I lifted my son on top of the motor and told him I'd give him a fruit rollup if he could get it out for me. Worked like a charm.
Here you go.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...2#post13402092
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:45 AM
  #376  
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I've said it before...AZine is amazing. The dealer was doing some other work on the car (new HFL and front CV joints) and I had them do a coolant and 3x3 tranny "flush." After reading several threads on the 3x3 process and the 3rd/4th pressure switches, I had the dealership change these out as well (didn't cost much extra). I was skeptical of whether or not I would detect any noticeable difference - call it proactiveness/protection on my part - but a difference was noticeable. My home is 50 miles away from the dealership and the shifting points/smoothness was amazing. As always, thanks AZine!
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Old 12-21-2011, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by sixsixfour View Post
Since there is no formal guide other than the one in the service manual, I decided to document the replacement of my 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches.

For the record, my transmission has about 35,xxx miles at the time and I am the first owner. The shift quality is decent, I haven't noticed anything unusual other than 3rd gear holding on steep inclines under load. I just recently did a 1x1 drain/refill of the transmission fluid at an Acura dealer as well (about 1K miles ago prior).

Materials needed:
x1 3rd Gear Pressure Switch (28600-P7Z-003)
x1 4th Gear Pressure Switch (28600-P7W-003)
x2 sealing gasket (90471-PW7-A00)
x1 brake cleaner (to wash away residual AT fluid)

Tools required:
10mm wrench
22mm wrench
flathead screwdriver
lift (or jackstands)


On to the pictures.





I brought my car to my friend's shop (where he did the Accord foglight install). the car was raised and immediately, you will have access to one of the switches. You first undo the two 10mm bolts that hold a shroud, and then unplug the two connectors just so that you can swing the shroud out of the way:



to see which bolts im talking about, see this pic from e30cabrio:



that open hole in the middle of the pic is for one of the bolts. the TL has two holding that shroud.

the other switch is visible once you remove part of the splash cover along the inner fenderwall. this is what you should see:




You will need a 22mm wrench to unscrew each switch from their location. once you got them loose, unscrew by hand. unplug the connectors as you go and reconnect them once you put everything back. I suggest doing one sensor at a time.



Now for the details.

I noticed that the transmission housing has moulds on it that actually tell you which is which. Now, those who may know which switch is which may have no problem, but in the event you forgot (like me), one way to determine which goes where is by looking for these indicators, see below:



The amount of fluid that drips out is not much, but to get a sense what to expect, I took a shot:



You will need to use the brake cleaner to remove the residue of the AT fluid on the parts of the suspension. depending on how much got out and where, you can just spray liberally:




Finally a pic of the switches I replaced. 3rd gear on the left, 4th gear on the right.





Driving Impressions

Immediately after having these put in, I did notice an improvement of the car's shifting habits. I can't really quantify it much, but the shift from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th now happen much quicker. Put it in another way, they arent as "sloppy" as before. Even after applying load and a couple of WOTs, they are just noticeably different. Frankly it feels like Im driving a brand new car.

I would definitely recommend this as a Preventive Maintenance item. I likely will do it in around 70K miles just to keep the 35K mile mark I set. for the low cost and ease (even though I personally didnt do it), I think it is a worthwhile investment, along with doing the drain/refill procedure for the 3G TL AT transmission.


thanks to I hate cars for starting the transmission thread and credit goes to those that provided the part numbers as well as e30cabrio for one of his reference pics.
What are the signs of a totally bad switch?? (either one)
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by DaddysOnehotAck View Post
What are the signs of a totally bad switch?? (either one)
Perhaps someone else may have a better answer, but if you are talking about a switch "failure," I assume (say that with caution) that your car would produce an error code. Most of us did this as a precautionary measure (and to provide better/smoother shifting points). Again, perhaps someone else can chime in with a better answer.
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Old 02-10-2012, 04:41 PM
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Sorry to bump an old thread, but I wanted to highlight an easy DIY for the newer members/owners of 04-06 TL's, like myself.

I just tackled this procedure on my "new to me" 06 TL this past weekend.

Replacement went relatively smoothly, except for a fight I had with the 3rd Gear shroud cable. After about 15 minutes, I ultimately showed it who's boss.

Thanks to all the members who posted excellent advice, knowledge, and helpful tips in this thread, as well as props to sixsixfour for the guide and DUHockey9's informative reply.

For me, there was no appreciable difference afterwards, but I'm glad was able to knock this simple preventive maintenance off my list.

Thanks again AZ!!
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:15 PM
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I would say what I have now is a failure. While on the highway, my check engine light came on, and while going about 65mph, I attempted to pass another car and my rpm's jumped from around 2k and redlined and came back down and gears were not shifting. I had to cruise the rest of the way and when stopped at a red light, the light turned green and it would not come out of 1st gear. I will try these tips to see if this will solve it. Will post results when done.
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:08 PM
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Just tried the paper clip deal with the odb II and it gave me for the D-Light, 4 long blinks and 0 short blinks, then also the Check Engine Light gave me 7 long blinks and 0 short blinks, so it comes down to the "40 - Torque converter clutch circuit performance or stuck off". I talked to a mechanic I know and he told me that it appears that the fluid is not flowing to allow it to shift normally, and I would have to drop the pan and change it on the inside. Will call the dealership and see what they say.
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:20 PM
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Just called the Acura Parts Dept. and asked about the torque converter clutch circuit and they couldn't find any part of such with the transmission. I asked him about the "70 - Shift solenoid valve A stuck (ON, OFF) and he advised me there are two and they are $39.73 a piece. Might just buy those two and switch them out and see if that solves the problem. I'm really trying to avoid taking it in and letting their service department bend me over.
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by lilnate View Post
Just called the Acura Parts Dept. and asked about the torque converter clutch circuit and they couldn't find any part of such with the transmission. I asked him about the "70 - Shift solenoid valve A stuck (ON, OFF) and he advised me there are two and they are $39.73 a piece. Might just buy those two and switch them out and see if that solves the problem. I'm really trying to avoid taking it in and letting their service department bend me over.
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:22 PM
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Something funny happened...Dad told me to unplug the battery for about 15 minutes and see what happens. Did just that and drove car around the block and ran like normal. Will put it on the highway and really test it out.
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Old 03-19-2012, 01:25 PM
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Did not work...car left me stranded on the road! Will do the sensor switch repairs and see if that works.
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Old 03-21-2012, 10:32 PM
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did this today i ordered the sensor and 4 bottle of redline atf and i change the sensor using jack and jack stand. once u take off the driver tire u can easily see the senors which took 2 min to change. than i change from oil form dw-1 to redline atf... there a NIGHT AND DAY difference in the car now. drives 70% BETTER
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Old 03-24-2012, 11:41 AM
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Just wanted to thank OP's direction and SharksBreath as he helped take care of this on my TL. Made a difference.
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Old 03-24-2012, 11:56 AM
  #388  
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^it was nice meeting you, Sam. let's take care of that 3x3 ATF soon!
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Old 03-30-2012, 09:34 AM
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I did the 3 and 4 pressure switch and know my D light is blinking i put them the right way need help anybody have any advise i have a 04
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Old 03-30-2012, 09:37 AM
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Check the wiring connectors. Unplug each that you worked on, blow air thru the plactic connector and blade terminals to clear out any dirt, look for anything that would prevent a good electrical connection.
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Old 03-30-2012, 10:24 AM
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Ok iam going to try soon as i get home from work
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Old 03-30-2012, 01:27 PM
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Just to make sure.... you had no blinking D light before changing the switches, right?

If resetting the connections does not solve the issue, then here is something else that you might try.

The following is a "long shot" but possible. It is possible that you received a defective switch. Do you still have the old switches that you removed? If it was me, I would replace the old switches to see if that resolved the issue.
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Old 03-30-2012, 01:47 PM
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BTW: For future searchers, here is how you read the flashing D-light or Check Engine Light codes without an OBD2 or Honda scan-tool (OBD2 scanner can't pull D codes anyways). You still need a scan tool to delete CEL codes, and only Honda can delete stored D codes...

Originally Posted by 94eg!
Just grab a paper clip and read the codes yourself. Stick the paper clip in the DLC by the drivers right knee (as shown in this picture). Then switch the ignition to the "ON" position and watch all the lights start blinking. Long blinks are 10's & shorts are 1's. Just add them together to get the code for that light. If there is more than one code stored, they will be separated by a break between blinks:



This link has the definition for all check engine light blink-codes:

K20Tuned LLC*::*DC5/EP3 Codes

And here is a link to show the Transmission "D" light blink-codes:

http://www.piloteers.org/forums/14-p...tml#post387236

Write down all your codes and come back to THIS thread and let us know.
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Old 03-30-2012, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SharksBreath View Post
^it was nice meeting you, Sam. let's take care of that 3x3 ATF soon!


Teach a shark to fish and see what happens.

Edit - My brain just realized that this was an 04-06.

Last edited by RaviNJCLs; 03-30-2012 at 02:32 PM.
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Old 03-31-2012, 07:01 AM
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So i check it yesterday and it was that one of the plugs was not proper sited i put it on right and everthing is back to normal and the car shift feels great thank you for. Your replys
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Old 04-14-2012, 04:58 PM
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Ok. Im new so please help me out. Recently I bought an 04 tl with 139k from a private seller. I test drove and did the usual ( gun it, check brakes, switch gears etc). I know a little about cars but I did not gradually press the gas to find the shudder that everyone talks about. I took the car home and sure enough the next day I felt the shudder. I took the car to Acura for a 3x3 and I changed my 3rd and 4th pressure gear switches. The shudder got a lot better but its still there. My question is should I do another 3x3 with a different fluid besides the Acura fluid or is there no use? If u recomend me changing to a new fluid which one should I use? If there is no use how long have some of you lasted with this shudder hesitation or whatever you guys call it?
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Old 04-15-2012, 08:44 PM
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@ TL_Silv I recommend Redline when you perform your next 3x3. Do a search keyword: REDLINE. That should help you get some information on the fluid.

Question: When I switch out the 3rd and 4th pressure switches do you guys want me to make a video on it? Or is this topic pretty beaten with pictures?
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by lusid View Post
Question: When I switch out the 3rd and 4th pressure switches do you guys want me to make a video on it? Or is this topic pretty beaten with pictures?
A video may be nice, though the pics surely do help. Granted Sharksbreath helped me as this was the first under the hood engine/transmission related DIY that I considered. I truly appreciate the DIY's. I just did the 3x3 transmission fluid change on my own due to great DIY posts on this forum. Love the site!
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Old 04-27-2012, 06:54 PM
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i have a 2006 acura tl and i need to know the part numbers for the switches i need.

can someone please tell me. i read back a few pages and its alot of differnt answers.

thanks!
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Old 04-27-2012, 07:20 PM
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For 2006

1-each
#12 28600-RAY-003 SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS)
#13 28610-RAY-003 SWITCH ASSY., AT OIL PRESSURE (TEXAS INSTRUMENTS)

2-each
#17 90471-PW7-A00 GASKET (10MM)

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