been wanting to control my drls for awhile now with an accord fog switch but still unclear on how to splice ur into my led drl harness. usually just pull the fuse when I want them off but am also interested in having them on with my headlights once in awhile. as of right now I have the harness wired up using themachine's diy and have had it like so for a few years now. if anyone could help with alittle insight as to where to tap into would be a great help

 

its pretty easy, i'll be able to write something up later today

 

thanks bud, I have te switch with a add a fuse sliced to it already just not sure where to connect the other leads to by the harness relay or where it needs to go lol

 

I'm assuming/hoping you went with the OEM accord switch.

There's 5 pins on the OEM accord switch. Top to bottom of the switch:

Pin 1 - Fog control - trigger wire (Goes to add-a-fuse to a fuse like fuse#32)
Pin 2 - Fog control - goes to engine bay to tell fogs to turn on (goes to relay from DRL LED kit - details below)
Pin 3 - Switch Illumination
Pin 4 - Switch Illumination
Pin 5 - Ground - (Black wire)

Currently, you have the relay wired to automatically turn on the DRLs when it detects power from the OEM light socket.

We're gonna change that.
We will make it turn on when it detects power from the accord switch.

Take a look at the DRL LED kit's relay in the engine bay.

Pin 86 & 85 are what we need to look at.
They should be labelled on the relay so you know which pin is which.

One of them will be positive, and the other negative.
You will take pin #2 from the accord switch and wire it through the firewall and attach it to pin 85 or 86 (depending on which one is the positive) and voila. Done.

How do you know which one is positive? Use a multimeter.
Unplug the connector from the relay.
Turn on your car, or set it to the "ON" position. Make sure handbrake is down.
Take the positive prong from the multimeter and put it to pin 85 (on the connector, not relay), and the negative to the battery negative terminal. If no voltage, put the multimeter's positive prong to pin 86. Whichever one shows voltage will be the positive wire.

 

wow thanks bro... when u making the connection at the relay do u mean splice directly to the relay or to the wire that was on that pin and bypass the pin?

 

also I believe that 85 is usually positive on most relays but have no clue if that varies

 

You're right, it's usually positive, but works both ways sometimes.
Better to make sure with a multimeter, though.

 

GP the MVP!!!

 

lol doesn't get any easier than that. thanks man will update if I get around to it on Thursday. I'm assuming I'll have the drl warning light. anyway I can throw a resistor in somewhere to get rid of it?

 

so should pin 4 and 5 on the accord switch be spliced together and to ground , and pin 3 and 1 together to the add a fuse?

 

to get the switch illumination to work

 

then pin 2 to the led drl relay

 

Pin 1 - Goes to add-a-fuse connected to fuse #32.
Pin 2 - Goes to the LED DRL Relay to pin 85 or 86 (whichever is positive)
Pin 3 - Goes to Pin 3 on the VSA button.
Pin 4 - Goes to Pin 4 on the VSA button.
Pin 5 - Ground, connect to any ground bolt such as the bolt under steering column.

Since the VSA button uses the same pin layout, just splice into it's wires for illumination

Cooltip: VSA button can be directly replaced with accord fog button so VSA can be set off or on and stay off or on whenever you start the car again.

As for the DRL dash error, you used The Machine's same kit and DIY right? As long as you don't have an error right now, you shouldn't have an error after this rewire. The DRL kit you installed should already take care of the DRL error with the included resistors =)

 

cool so I just T tap into the vsa (just so I got this straight)? and also what fuse do u recommend for the add a fuse? just match what circuit 32 is?

 

thanks again bro been very helpful once again!

 

Yup, t-tap is what you'll need, or splice connector.

I recommend fuse #32, check out the fusebox diagram, should be labelled ACC

You're welcome buddy!

 

nice gotcha! and ud just match the amperage of the #32 fuse with the add a fuse or does the switch get a different amp rating

 

a 3A fuse is fine for the add-a-fuse

 

really!? didn't think it could be that small. so one fuse is whatever was in plot #32 and the other a 3A fuse on the add a fuse? only reason I ask is cause I used an add a fuse for my independent fog mod and could of sworn I used a 15A or 10A on the side of the add a fuse with the lead coming off it

 

3A fuse is fine, the actual DRL is fused already in the engine bay.
I use 3A fuse on all my add-a-fuses such as my shock sensor, puddle lights, dash cam, footwell lighting, and reverse cam.

 

shit just left autozone and the smallest they had was 5A

 

5A is fine too.

 

bro ur the man. everything working great and no errors!!! only problem I'm having is the button illumination. the status light works but not the actual button so I'm gunna try and find a bulb and swap fast. will post pics later if it's not too late

 

yea swapped bulbs and still only the status light at the top works but the actual button illumination won't work. I even tried flip flopping the wires I T-Tapped into on the vsa switch and still same result. any ideas? also should I switch those back? lol

 

wow that's frustrating lol everything went and works flawlessly except that haha. looks terrible when the vsa and mirror buttons r lit and it isn't (except that little light at top that indicates the drls r on of course)

 

see

 

im glad it worked out for you buddy

now to deal with the button illumination

sorry for the previous instructions.
try this, it will work:

put pin 3 from accord fog switch to solid red wire from VSA switch.
put pin 4 from accord fog switch to red with black stripe wire from VSA switch.

use t-tap or splice connector

cheers

 

so instead pin 3 goes or pin 1 on the vsa? (doesn't pin 1 go to the add a fuse)I thought pin 3 went to the vsa's pin 3 red wire . and then both red with black wires which is pin 4 on switch and pin 3 on vsa instead of pin 4 to 4 which was the switches red with black to a red on the vsa

 

sorry buddy, i have given you wrong information,

pin 4 on the accord switch is supposed to be red with black stripe wire.
please put this pin to the red with black stripe wire on the VSA switch (pin 3?)

pin 3 on the accord switch goes to red wire on vsa switch (pin 4?)

in short :
Accord switch pin 4 -------> vsa switch pin 3
accord switch pin 3 -------> vsa switch pin 4

my friend just confirmed.

 

that's exactly what I tried and it didn't work. I tried that after the 4-4 and 3-4 didn't work

 

there are two red wires on the vsa and also a red with black stripe but it's the other two that look similar.

 

k but there is another red wire on the #1 pin of the vsa. could it be that one?

 

just weird since I did try that configuration unless the red wire without the black striped off the fog switch goes to the red wire on pin 1 of the vsa and not the other red without black

 

maybe I'll try and just splice them all together and eliminate the T Taps. not sure what to do, so aggravating. with GP's help everything went perfect and without incident.... except lol

 

I'm not sure why it didn't work.

Try using a multimeter to test it.

4 to 3 and 3 to 4

Leave pin 1,2 and 5 alone as those ones are for fog control instead of illumination.

 

damn bro I'll have to give it a try when I'm outta work. I'm so close lol. I'm thinking maybe the T Taps haven't bit into the wire enough so I'll just splice them together under a barrel using the configuration that has the red/black wires going together and the reds together. if u don't mind PM me ur cell number just for a few quick questions. either way thanks again bro ur the man!

 

all good!!!

 

glad to hear

 

I had it wired right just the T taps weren't making a good connection and biting into the wires so I just cut them and spliced into them with a couple butt connectors