Hawk Racing Pads, shop online, FREE SHIPPING from HEELTOE!
#1
Hawk Racing Pads, shop online, FREE SHIPPING from HEELTOE!
Hey guys! I have answered SOOOOOO many PMs and emails about pads I FINALLY got off my keister and put them online. I added all Acura models online:
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/Pads-c-1464.html
Through the end of July we will be offering FREE SHIPPING for Acurazine members! Use coupon code "azhawkpads" when you check out. International order online and if we need a lil' more I will let you know.
Ceramics and HP+ will be up in the next week or so. HPS are easily the most popular, and my pick for the streets. You will have all the noise and dust benefits of a stock pad, with better braking characteristics. I am not going to lie (like some brake manufacturers do) and claim these don't dust, but they certainly don't dust any more than stock, if that much.
Anyway, thanks for looking and shopping!!!!
#3
selection question
Hi Marcus
Great improvements to the site www.heeltoeauto.com
On my 01 TL, I have the RacingBrake UP rotors with Hawk HPS pads
The combo works great and I am always amazed at how late I can brake into a corner during mountain fun runs- time after time without worry
What I am looking for now--- is a bit more bite without trashing my rotors
What do you suggest?
Tom
Great improvements to the site www.heeltoeauto.com
On my 01 TL, I have the RacingBrake UP rotors with Hawk HPS pads
The combo works great and I am always amazed at how late I can brake into a corner during mountain fun runs- time after time without worry
What I am looking for now--- is a bit more bite without trashing my rotors
What do you suggest?
Tom
#4
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Hi Marcus
Great improvements to the site www.heeltoeauto.com
On my 01 TL, I have the RacingBrake UP rotors with Hawk HPS pads
The combo works great and I am always amazed at how late I can brake into a corner during mountain fun runs- time after time without worry
What I am looking for now--- is a bit more bite without trashing my rotors
What do you suggest?
Tom
Great improvements to the site www.heeltoeauto.com
On my 01 TL, I have the RacingBrake UP rotors with Hawk HPS pads
The combo works great and I am always amazed at how late I can brake into a corner during mountain fun runs- time after time without worry
What I am looking for now--- is a bit more bite without trashing my rotors
What do you suggest?
Tom
We normally would never recommend the HP+ rotors for a street application, but because the Racingbrake UP rotors has an enhanced metallurgical compound over a standard rotor you can use the HP+ with confidence.
For the ultimate street braking, UP and HP+ is a winning combo.
Marcus
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#10
Originally Posted by cheepung
Just received and installed during the weekend, best price available. Brake feel is about the same. Hopefully it is getting better after few weeks.
Well, the pedal should feel the same as before. Will will notice an improved bite ones the pads are broken in. Of course, upgrading the rotors to Racingbrake UPs would certainly help.
Marcus
#12
brakes
cheepung
If you have installed only new Hawk pads on old rotors- you need to make sure and either resurface the rotors, or clean the rotors with 130 grit sandpaper to remove old pad contaminents.
Thats per the Hawk website instruction on install and bedding in.
Then there is the very fun bedding in the pads procedure
You can follow the one on the Hawk box or use Stoptechs method
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
The idea is to heat the rotors and the pads in a progressive manner then superheat them to establish a transfer layer of material to the clean rotor.
Then cool them off to let that layer become permanent= less noise and more grip
My HPS pads took about 500 miles to really feel good to where I had the confidence for a mountain fun run to Yosemite- thats sea level to 7000 feet in 2 hours of twisty roads.
They work so good I left foot brake so I can go deeper into the corner at speed- then super late brake- turn into the apex and accellerate out of the corner,
They work better and better the more I use them
If you go for the RB rotors and the Hawk+ pads- you get a stopping machine beyond belief!!!!
If you have installed only new Hawk pads on old rotors- you need to make sure and either resurface the rotors, or clean the rotors with 130 grit sandpaper to remove old pad contaminents.
Thats per the Hawk website instruction on install and bedding in.
Then there is the very fun bedding in the pads procedure
You can follow the one on the Hawk box or use Stoptechs method
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
The idea is to heat the rotors and the pads in a progressive manner then superheat them to establish a transfer layer of material to the clean rotor.
Then cool them off to let that layer become permanent= less noise and more grip
My HPS pads took about 500 miles to really feel good to where I had the confidence for a mountain fun run to Yosemite- thats sea level to 7000 feet in 2 hours of twisty roads.
They work so good I left foot brake so I can go deeper into the corner at speed- then super late brake- turn into the apex and accellerate out of the corner,
They work better and better the more I use them
If you go for the RB rotors and the Hawk+ pads- you get a stopping machine beyond belief!!!!
#13
01tl4tl,
Yes, i have Pepboy installed HPS and cut the OEM rotor for me. I did the bed in myself per Hawk. The brake feel is about the same and make some low Jet-engine-die-down noices. Nothing serious like look at me, you have to turn off eveything to hear it.
I may try to bed in again. I used the complete stop method per Hawk instead of no complete stop per Stoptech since i got HPS.
As you said, it is going to take some miles for it to feel good. Will keep you update. Btw, it is for my 04 TSX.
Yes, i have Pepboy installed HPS and cut the OEM rotor for me. I did the bed in myself per Hawk. The brake feel is about the same and make some low Jet-engine-die-down noices. Nothing serious like look at me, you have to turn off eveything to hear it.
I may try to bed in again. I used the complete stop method per Hawk instead of no complete stop per Stoptech since i got HPS.
As you said, it is going to take some miles for it to feel good. Will keep you update. Btw, it is for my 04 TSX.
#14
re- bedding
Ok - so to make sure I understand- you read the Hawk instructions as meaning ~come to a full stop each time and then accellerate and repeat?
I wish they would write better directions!
Full stop is the one thing you do not do!!
It causes hot spot and uneven transfer layer
Heavy slow downs to 20 mph- which will really be about 10 by the time you get off the brake and on the gas again- with increased pushing effort on the pedal each time- start medium and work up to just shy of ABS engagement
Full throttle back to speed and right away on the brakes- a little harder each time
To remedy- do the full stoptech method and probably have to do it twice to
first clean off the problem and then make the bedding happen
That should fix your prob
I wish they would write better directions!
Full stop is the one thing you do not do!!
It causes hot spot and uneven transfer layer
Heavy slow downs to 20 mph- which will really be about 10 by the time you get off the brake and on the gas again- with increased pushing effort on the pedal each time- start medium and work up to just shy of ABS engagement
Full throttle back to speed and right away on the brakes- a little harder each time
To remedy- do the full stoptech method and probably have to do it twice to
first clean off the problem and then make the bedding happen
That should fix your prob
#15
Also take a look at the back of the pads thru the wheel and check for caliper grease on the backing plate and the ends of the pads where that tab sits in the bracket- they may have been lazy and not used the grease as our cars need
#16
Yes, i came to full stop each time. For me, Stop=Stop, not slow down to 10 or 15mph. Shhh. I am going to try the Stoptech method this week.
Per Hawk,
Burnishing Instructions on HPS
After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
I think we hijack the thread. Btw, best price i can find anywhere due to the free shipping.
Per Hawk,
Burnishing Instructions on HPS
After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph.
DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!
Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
After step 4 your new pads are ready for use.
I think we hijack the thread. Btw, best price i can find anywhere due to the free shipping.
#17
I like to brake from higher speeds....like from 80-40. They get nice and hot and really allow a good pedal pressure let those pads rub hard into the rotor surface.
Either way, don't come to a full stop and keep your foot on the pedal. If you need to stop the car, hold it with the ebrake, not the brake pedal.
Marcus
Either way, don't come to a full stop and keep your foot on the pedal. If you need to stop the car, hold it with the ebrake, not the brake pedal.
Marcus
#18
I did the bed in again over the weekend using Stoptech's way. 10 60mph to 10mph, rest for 30 minutes and did another 10 60 to10.
The car stops much better and the brake does not fade early like the OEM. I am happy.
The car stops much better and the brake does not fade early like the OEM. I am happy.
#19
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Dear Marcus,
I have a 2.3 CL. My front rotors are warped and the pads are worn. I was viewing your website and did not see a front set for 2.3 CLs. What are your recommendations for better replacements, doctor?
Sincerely and respectfully,
Ken
I have a 2.3 CL. My front rotors are warped and the pads are worn. I was viewing your website and did not see a front set for 2.3 CLs. What are your recommendations for better replacements, doctor?
Sincerely and respectfully,
Ken
#20
cheepung
When you say rest 30 minutes then did again- did you drive at freeway speed letting air cool the rotors and pads and then repeat the bedding?
Or did you stop and let them bake? then redo it?
Glad the procedure worked- just making sure the directions were clear this time for you
Ezek and others
Please note the post by Marcus at the top of this page
It ask you please email for fastest reply
Or call for immediate personal service
When you say rest 30 minutes then did again- did you drive at freeway speed letting air cool the rotors and pads and then repeat the bedding?
Or did you stop and let them bake? then redo it?
Glad the procedure worked- just making sure the directions were clear this time for you
Ezek and others
Please note the post by Marcus at the top of this page
It ask you please email for fastest reply
Or call for immediate personal service
#21
Ezek
If you have a 3.2 CL? ( I only know my car) then the CL and TL have the same brakes!
Same transmissions too
If you have a 3.2 CL? ( I only know my car) then the CL and TL have the same brakes!
Same transmissions too
#22
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
cheepung
When you say rest 30 minutes then did again- did you drive at freeway speed letting air cool the rotors and pads and then repeat the bedding?
Or did you stop and let them bake? then redo it?
Glad the procedure worked- just making sure the directions were clear this time for you
Ezek and others
Please note the post by Marcus at the top of this page
It ask you please email for fastest reply
Or call for immediate personal service
When you say rest 30 minutes then did again- did you drive at freeway speed letting air cool the rotors and pads and then repeat the bedding?
Or did you stop and let them bake? then redo it?
Glad the procedure worked- just making sure the directions were clear this time for you
Ezek and others
Please note the post by Marcus at the top of this page
It ask you please email for fastest reply
Or call for immediate personal service
Man, i stop and let them bake for 30 minutes, then redo. Please don't tell me i am wrong again. Am i right? What is the difference?
#23
I just checked the article again. I am wrong again. Should i do it again. Car stops much better than before with very tiny noice. I never hit so many vtec in my TSX by doing the bed in. I guess it is not worth it to do it again since the car stops great. I am going to break something else.
#24
Cmon chee
One more time following the instructions
Got to drive at freeway speed- after the last heat cycle (you already know not to stop during the process) Driving allows the proper cooling
You wont hurt the pads doing this again- dont worry- they kinda like it!
And the final result will amaze you- stopping good and stopping great are very different
One more time following the instructions
Got to drive at freeway speed- after the last heat cycle (you already know not to stop during the process) Driving allows the proper cooling
You wont hurt the pads doing this again- dont worry- they kinda like it!
And the final result will amaze you- stopping good and stopping great are very different
#25
BUMP for an awesome deal with free shipping!!!!
#28
see www.heeltoeauto.com for some great new tech section info
especially how to properly bed in your new brakes and coming soon-
DIYs for parts sold by heeltoe.
especially how to properly bed in your new brakes and coming soon-
DIYs for parts sold by heeltoe.
#31
Can you imagine what it would cost to ship 45 lbs to Australia, a mere hemisphere away, plus they have import fee- value added tax-box inspection fee, because we can tax etc...
Canuks should expect 60-80 USD to get RB rotors shipped to them
Canuks should expect 60-80 USD to get RB rotors shipped to them
#33
For fun I looked up the normal airfreight and it was $420-480 USD and still takes a week! Must be a slow plane...
Ocean freight would be cheaper- and a month or 3 to get sometimes
no info available today as its the weekend
Marcus doesnt check these forums often- so email him direct for fast service
marcus@heeltoeauto.com and give your city and post code, its needed to look up prices
Ocean freight would be cheaper- and a month or 3 to get sometimes
no info available today as its the weekend
Marcus doesnt check these forums often- so email him direct for fast service
marcus@heeltoeauto.com and give your city and post code, its needed to look up prices
#36
Check heeltoe main website for all the NEW brake pad options including RacingBrakes in-house designed pads.
I switched from HPS to RBs ET300 and am very happy with them!
http://heeltoeauto.com/Acura-TSX-2004-CL9-c-2076.html
I switched from HPS to RBs ET300 and am very happy with them!
http://heeltoeauto.com/Acura-TSX-2004-CL9-c-2076.html
#37
Racer
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Toronto, CAN
Age: 39
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i'm looking for a set of Ceramic Pads Front and Rear for my 05 AT TL, as well as a pair of rear rotor as well. how much is it gonna be? and how much extra for shipping to canada, L4E4S8? thanks!!
#38
You can check the prices on heeltoes main website here:
http://heeltoeauto.com/Heeltoe-Build...-pr-40006.html
Email marcus direct (click on his sig in his post here) for addittional shipping $ to Canada and approx paperwork and import fees you have to pay as well.
What front rotors are you running? Ceramic pads dont dust much, but dont stop as well either!
here is some good brake info
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?board=tech_brakes
RacingBrake now has it own in-house designed pad series, and my ET300s are very low dust- especially for the stopping power- no noise issues or other problems with them. They continue to impress and sometimes amaze me!
For the rear rotors the Stoptech are hi quality and a visual match to the RB front rotors.
http://heeltoeauto.com/Heeltoe-Build...-pr-40006.html
Email marcus direct (click on his sig in his post here) for addittional shipping $ to Canada and approx paperwork and import fees you have to pay as well.
What front rotors are you running? Ceramic pads dont dust much, but dont stop as well either!
here is some good brake info
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?board=tech_brakes
RacingBrake now has it own in-house designed pad series, and my ET300s are very low dust- especially for the stopping power- no noise issues or other problems with them. They continue to impress and sometimes amaze me!
For the rear rotors the Stoptech are hi quality and a visual match to the RB front rotors.
#39
Racer
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Toronto, CAN
Age: 39
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thx 01tl4tl
i'm currently running powerslot front rotor with HPS pad all around. but my rear pad (with stock rotor) has worn down to almost none (i installed all pads and front rotor at the same time though). my mechanics suggested me to replace the rotor and rear pad. so i might as well replace all front and rear pads as well. HPS pad are great. i do occasional tracking in the summer (few times a year) and they stop great. but for everyday use, they generate QUITE amount of dust and i've recently purchased a set of rims and the rims can't hide the dust well (gold color rims).
regarding the ET300 pad, how are they compared to the ceramic?
Thanks =)
i'm currently running powerslot front rotor with HPS pad all around. but my rear pad (with stock rotor) has worn down to almost none (i installed all pads and front rotor at the same time though). my mechanics suggested me to replace the rotor and rear pad. so i might as well replace all front and rear pads as well. HPS pad are great. i do occasional tracking in the summer (few times a year) and they stop great. but for everyday use, they generate QUITE amount of dust and i've recently purchased a set of rims and the rims can't hide the dust well (gold color rims).
regarding the ET300 pad, how are they compared to the ceramic?
Thanks =)
#40
My experience comes from running HPS all around on RB rotors.
I then switched to ET300 pads and they outperform the HPS across the board
Awesome for street driving and occassional track day fun. They also make a more aggressive pad that replaces Hawk Blue for hardcore track day use
Both will outperform Ceramic in stopping power, the ET300s will dust far less than the HPS. Ceramics are good for low dust but not greatest thing for stopping
18 Enkei rims with chrome lip- I understand about brake dust!
I then switched to ET300 pads and they outperform the HPS across the board
Awesome for street driving and occassional track day fun. They also make a more aggressive pad that replaces Hawk Blue for hardcore track day use
Both will outperform Ceramic in stopping power, the ET300s will dust far less than the HPS. Ceramics are good for low dust but not greatest thing for stopping
18 Enkei rims with chrome lip- I understand about brake dust!