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So I've just received a reply from Vleds.com. In order to fix the issue they would need to know the voltage at the original Drl bulb. Anyone?
Originally Posted by JakeF
The ones that I had in were 12.8V but list as 12 V on the bottom of the bulbs.
Pretty sure that's not what they're asking. They're asking at what voltage is your DRL circuit running at. That determines what you'll need. Most DRL systems work at half voltage (6v) and full power (12v) for High beams
Lights got here this morning they are awesome! Plug and play at its finest no problems at all and they are so bright and I think they match my switchbacks pretty good. You can see they have 3 chips in them and when in drl only one chip is on and when you turn on the high beams all 3 chips light up. I can see the beam they make even in the sunlight. Ill get some night pics later. The only consistent negative thing I read on the reviews is that the fans are noisey. You can hear them if you are listening for them when the car is parked, with the radio off and with no other noises. Otherwise its not noticeable.
@JakeF, Love the look of the micro DRL! Can wait to get mine! So I received more info from VLEDS and they suggested that i buy an error cancelling kit for 26$. An extra 26$ for no annoying replace bulb message if well worth it IMHO. This being said i wrote back to them to know what order to plug the error cancelling kit. Before or after the control module. I'll let you know what they say.
@JakeF, Love the look of the micro DRL! Can wait to get mine! So I received more info from VLEDS and they suggested that i buy an error cancelling kit for 26$. An extra 26$ for no annoying replace bulb message if well worth it IMHO. This being said i wrote back to them to know what order to plug the error cancelling kit. Before or after the control module. I'll let you know what they say.
Yeah, looks like I got the wrong resistors lol. They told me to send them back and they’ll exchange them for me.
So here's the order of connections
Factory wiring to resistor kit
Resistor kit to control module
Control module to bulb
Note that the control module is polarity sensitive. So if the DRL don't come on, unplug the control module from the resistor kit and give the connector a 180
Factory wiring to resistor kit
Resistor kit to control module
Control module to bulb
Note that the control module is polarity sensitive. So if the DRL don't come on, unplug the control module from the resistor kit and give the connector a 180
I got the VLR's instead of the R2's. I tried switching the direction and no dice. VLEDS support told me that if the control module wasn't correct the high beams would not work, which they do without the resistors - I just get the warning message. I should be good once I put the R2's in.
Big fan of the Morimoto LED fogs when matched to a 6k set of OSRAM bulbs. They match very closely to each other once warmed up. I have had both installed in the car for nearly 60k miles without issues. This is on a 2013.
I have a little update for those bulbs I bought and linked on here. I know I said id be the guinea pig for them so heres what happened with them. Let me first say that when they worked they were awesome. So bright and perfectly white, I really liked how they looked. I also used them while driving to Ottawa and back which was a 5 hour trip one way and a 6 hour trip back. No problems at all during that trip and again loved how they looked. After about 3 months of having them installed one of the bulbs went out. I was able to get it working again by playing with the connection of the bulb to the resister but after about a day it went out again. Repeat that cycle about 3 more times of getting it to work again only to go out and each time it worked for less and less time. I tried switching sides and resisters and it was always the same bulb that wasn't working. Anyways that one bulb pretty much stopped working for more than 10 seconds at a time. so I gave up on it and put the stock bulbs back in. I contacted the seller and pretty much told them the problem and that I wanted one new bulb. They told me I had to ship them back to them, they would test them and replace anything that they found to be defective. So I said ok send me your shipping info. They did and I told them I've shipped it all back to them (at a cost of $16) and await their response. Two weeks later I hadn't heard back from them and the package arrives back at my house with a Canada post sticker on it marking it as "refused". I look up the tracking info and can see it went to the address they provided, spent a whole day there then was shipped back to me. I contacted the seller and asked them whats going on with this. I specifically asked them if they received the package and tested the bulbs. They asked me for the tracking number, then told me they sent the package back to me with one new bulb and never answered the question as to whether they tested them or not. Im lookin at the bulbs and im like 99% sure they are the exact two bulbs that I had sent them. But I try them anyways and its the exact same problem. So im like these f***ers just send the package back to me without doing anything. I come back inside the house from trying them again and I call amazon right away, told them the situation, they looked at our email correspondence and in under 5 minutes they decide to refund my purchase in full for both the bulbs and resisters. So I got all my money back and still have the bulbs and resisters.
The search for quality and reasonably priced LED drl/high beams continues.
Last edited by dopeboy1; Feb 21, 2018 at 10:28 AM.
I got the Putco LEDS for DRL and FOGS and they are still going strong and it comes with a 2 year warranty. I got it from T-Dot Performance. .I choose the braided head sink so there wasn't any moving parts.
I got the Putco LEDS for DRL and FOGS and they are still going strong and it comes with a 2 year warranty. I got it from T-Dot Performance. .I choose the braided head sink so there wasn't any moving parts.
NOTE: Order the ones without the anti-flicker module!!
Do you have a link to them?
What is the best way to get the DRL's out of the car with the least amount of disassembly?
Open the hood and remove the plastic trim pieces. Remove 3 clips from the plastic duct on the drivers side and then the duct itself. Then remove the coolant reservoir on the passenger side by unscrewing the top and pulling it out. That gives you access to reach the drls from the top.
Please double check the numbers but this should be the ones without anti-flicker module.
Putco Silver-Lux LED Headlight Conversion Kits 309005
Putco 280011P Silver Lux Pro H11 LED Headlight
The ones I got has anit-flicker module but I didn't need it.
