2017 Advance Running Boards Install DIY
#1
2017 Advance Running Boards Install DIY
Since the Advance running board installation process has changed significantly for the 2017 models I thought I would add some photos and commentary to the steps provided by the official installation instructions. As someone who likes to perform routine maintenance at home, I thought I'd save $1000 and order the running boards to install them myself. It ended up being a larger job than expected, but it was a good challenge.
The overall process is very similar to the Sport running board installation started in another thread:
Recommended Tools
Other Tips and Thoughts
The final result:
I can see why the dealer charges so much. Hope someone finds this helpful!
The overall process is very similar to the Sport running board installation started in another thread:
- Remove the existing side sill panel
- Prepare the new side sill/running board unit
- Install supporting brackets
- Install the new side sill/running board, praying everything lines up
Recommended Tools
- 12mm socket and wrench - used on the 30 flippin' flange bolts used in this kit
- 10mm deep socket or open end wrench (This is NOT mentioned in the instructions but is needed to tighten the flange nut)
- 3-in-1 Painter's tool (Also not mentioned in the instructions but needed to score and scrape undercoating near the brackets)
- 2 short flat head screwdrivers to pop the round plastic trim clips, in the absence of having a real trim tool
- Touch up paint - I picked this up from my Honda dealer for $15. Figured I'll want this anyway for touching up the inevitable rock chips.
- Torque wrench - I only had a 1/2" wrench that went down to 25 ft lbs, so I ended up using the "snug + 1/4 turn" technique on the bolts
- Gloves to protect your hands when removing the side sills
- Right-angled Phillips screwdriver, used to unscrew the self-tapping screws at the front and rear of the side sill. I picked up this kit at Harbor Freight a while back:
Other Tips and Thoughts
- Step 2 refers to a clip that is effectively buried inside the side sill. Interestingly enough this clip was missing on the left side of my 2-day-old vehicle. On the right side, I found it easier to push it out from the back.
- Step 5 (Removing the existing side sill) just about made me throw in the towel. I am not the strongest guy out there so getting these off took multiple full exertion efforts. As tommypenguin mentioned in his post, remove the clip from step 6 before attempting step 5. Then adjust the front and rear of the side sill so that neither end catches when it slides forward. What worked for me better than pulling was to push it from the rear, where I could use the tire for leverage. If everything goes well, all 14 clips will come out cleanly.
- Steps 6 and 7: In both cases the plastic "support" piece stayed on the vehicle instead of remaining in the factory side sill. Carefully slide it off the existing clips and affix it along its slots in the new one.
- Step 9: Interestingly these clips come out when pushed down, as opposed to the '14-'16 instructions to turn them to remove them.
- Step 10: I found it easiest to pop these back out with a flathead screwdriver. Tip: Make doubly sure the new clips are slid into their slots completely. Usually they will "click" and be nearly flush with the left edge of the plastic panel, but not all.
Bonus advice: There are white block-ish clips that attach the new side sill to the running boards themselves. The instructions never mentioned anything about them needing to be attached so I used screwdrivers to make sure each one was pushed in.
- Step 17 (Remove undercoating and apply touch up paint): In most cases I had very little undercoating in the areas where the brackets would go, but I went ahead and scraped off areas and painted them over.
- Step 19 (Install Support Bracket A) required I cut off and paint the caulk line so the bracket could sit flush against the frame.
- Step 23 (Install the new running board): This is also a huge pain especially if you are working alone. The doors are open, blocking a good view, and the weight of the new unit is much heavier than the original side sill. I worked from the back and used my foot to hold up the front end, making sure the fender well fit into the back slot, and carefully pushed in each pin from back to front.
- Steps 24-26: You'd think the hard part was over but you'd be wrong. There is a very good chance that one or more bolts will not line up right on one or more of the 3 brackets. Using a flat head to make small adjustments on alignment may be needed here.
The final result:
I can see why the dealer charges so much. Hope someone finds this helpful!
The following 3 users liked this post by TLXinTX:
#2
FWIW, I posted more pictures in my Flickr album.
The following users liked this post:
vicbastige (09-04-2016)
#3
Excellent, helpful post. After reading the instructions that Acura had for their dealers on installation, I decided to let them do it. It, as you illustrate, is not a simple 30 min. bolt on. Still, the results are fantastic. I also added the splashguards which really tie everything together nicely...I think.
#4
Excellent, helpful post. After reading the instructions that Acura had for their dealers on installation, I decided to let them do it. It, as you illustrate, is not a simple 30 min. bolt on. Still, the results are fantastic. I also added the splashguards which really tie everything together nicely...I think.
Appreciate the kind words. Looks like I may get the splash guards as well.
#5
OMG, I installed the wrong year running board to my 2017. I ordered the advanced runningboard from Amazon, and I guess it is for 2016, but the good news is that installation is the same as for 2016 and it actually fits. The only difference is that the existing side sill panel with the chrome remains intact. My wife, who loves bling bling actually loves I, lol. I'll post some pictures of it later if anyone is interested. It only took me about 45 minutes for the install.
#6
OMG, I installed the wrong year running board to my 2017. I ordered the advanced runningboard from Amazon, and I guess it is for 2016, but the good news is that installation is the same as for 2016 and it actually fits. The only difference is that the existing side sill panel with the chrome remains intact. My wife, who loves bling bling actually loves I, lol. I'll post some pictures of it later if anyone is interested. It only took me about 45 minutes for the install.
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#11
LOL - looking at Acura's website I see where the confusion is. The link to the non-chrome version says "Chrome trim with custom step plate provides added eye appeal" and clearly shows a chrome strip on the board in the detail image. The chrome version duplicates that description twice and has a broken image link. Acura's web team needs to get their act together. I'll see if there is a Site Feedback link anywhere...
#12
Both Advance running boards have a chrome stripe on the side, but the "chrome" version has the chrome step surface, while the non-chrome version has a black step surface. $26 difference. The Sport ones are basically the same as the 14-16 sport boards, albeit with a slightly different rocker portion look and it is missing now the chrome stripe.
#13
Both Advance running boards have a chrome stripe on the side, but the "chrome" version has the chrome step surface, while the non-chrome version has a black step surface. $26 difference. The Sport ones are basically the same as the 14-16 sport boards, albeit with a slightly different rocker portion look and it is missing now the chrome stripe.
#14
Very good to know! With this difference in mind I can see the difference now on the Acura website but they really should have done a better job to show the running boards. Thanks for the information. Glad I got the Chrome version -- even though it's more of a silver with black diamond skid material.
#15
Pretty much right on. Im ok as I wouldn't want the glare of chrome. Bottom line is it looks really good to my eye.
#16
#17
I guess any material used for a step can/will wear. What is not so evident from the pictures is that the edge and the diamonds are raised significantly from the metal surface below meaning that unless you plan on jogging on the running boards, your sole will not touch the finished surface below. From how I get in and out of mine so far, I'm mostly stepping on the rubber edge.
#19
If I were you I would check underneath the vehicle to confirm the bolt holes are present. There should be 6 total: a pair near each wheel and one pair in the middle.
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mdxrebel (12-21-2016)
#20
I don't see why not. The Sport boards for the 2016 also require removing the side sills, where there appear to be the same cutouts and holes in the body.
If I were you I would check underneath the vehicle to confirm the bolt holes are present. There should be 6 total: a pair near each wheel and one pair in the middle.
If I were you I would check underneath the vehicle to confirm the bolt holes are present. There should be 6 total: a pair near each wheel and one pair in the middle.
#21
I don't see why not. The Sport boards for the 2016 also require removing the side sills, where there appear to be the same cutouts and holes in the body.
If I were you I would check underneath the vehicle to confirm the bolt holes are present. There should be 6 total: a pair near each wheel and one pair in the middle.
If I were you I would check underneath the vehicle to confirm the bolt holes are present. There should be 6 total: a pair near each wheel and one pair in the middle.
#22
Ditto on this. From what I look at the installation guides between the 2014-2016 Sport Board and 2017 Advance Boards, the mounting are the same. I'm hoping someone can confirm this with their 2014-2016. I have a 2016 and don't like the 2014-2016 Advance Boards. The 2017 seem more integrated than an add-on.
This guy seems to have installed the rocker at least from a 17 onto a 14-16, so I think it's reasonable to assume that 17+ boards will work on 14-16s.
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Texas325 (12-30-2016)
#23
Just sharing - Acura MDX Forum : Acura MDX SUV Forums
This guy seems to have installed the rocker at least from a 17 onto a 14-16, so I think it's reasonable to assume that 17+ boards will work on 14-16s.
This guy seems to have installed the rocker at least from a 17 onto a 14-16, so I think it's reasonable to assume that 17+ boards will work on 14-16s.
#25
Erm.. you might be in the wrong forum if you're asking about the RDX using MDX boards. MDX boards seem to be cross compatible from 2014 up to current, or at least the rockers from a 17 fit a 16 fine, so the boards should work too but hasn't been verified yet.
#26
Hi,
I'm in the middle of doing this install, working on the left side of the vehicle, and have a question:
Step 19: install Left Bracket A and Left Bracket C, loosely, onto the car frame.
Step 20: install Support Bracket A to Left Bracket A
Step 21: install Support Bracket B to Left Bracket C.
so far so good
Step 22: torque down the Support Bracket A and Support Bracket B
Step 23: this is where I got confused.
Instructions say to REMOVE the Left Bracket A and Left Bracket C. These were installed (loosely) in Step 19 above. Why installed at Step 19 and remove now?
Step 24: install the running board.
Step 25: install Left Bracket A, Left Bracket B, Left Bracket C. So these 3 brackets get put on AFTER the running board?
Is this correct directions?
Thanks!
I'm in the middle of doing this install, working on the left side of the vehicle, and have a question:
Step 19: install Left Bracket A and Left Bracket C, loosely, onto the car frame.
Step 20: install Support Bracket A to Left Bracket A
Step 21: install Support Bracket B to Left Bracket C.
so far so good
Step 22: torque down the Support Bracket A and Support Bracket B
Step 23: this is where I got confused.
Instructions say to REMOVE the Left Bracket A and Left Bracket C. These were installed (loosely) in Step 19 above. Why installed at Step 19 and remove now?
Step 24: install the running board.
Step 25: install Left Bracket A, Left Bracket B, Left Bracket C. So these 3 brackets get put on AFTER the running board?
Is this correct directions?
Thanks!
#27
OMG, I installed the wrong year running board to my 2017. I ordered the advanced runningboard from Amazon, and I guess it is for 2016, but the good news is that installation is the same as for 2016 and it actually fits. The only difference is that the existing side sill panel with the chrome remains intact. My wife, who loves bling bling actually loves I, lol. I'll post some pictures of it later if anyone is interested. It only took me about 45 minutes for the install.
#29
Hi,
I'm in the middle of doing this install, working on the left side of the vehicle, and have a question:
Step 19: install Left Bracket A and Left Bracket C, loosely, onto the car frame.
Step 20: install Support Bracket A to Left Bracket A
Step 21: install Support Bracket B to Left Bracket C.
so far so good
Step 22: torque down the Support Bracket A and Support Bracket B
Step 23: this is where I got confused.
Instructions say to REMOVE the Left Bracket A and Left Bracket C. These were installed (loosely) in Step 19 above. Why installed at Step 19 and remove now?
Step 24: install the running board.
Step 25: install Left Bracket A, Left Bracket B, Left Bracket C. So these 3 brackets get put on AFTER the running board?
Is this correct directions?
Thanks!
I'm in the middle of doing this install, working on the left side of the vehicle, and have a question:
Step 19: install Left Bracket A and Left Bracket C, loosely, onto the car frame.
Step 20: install Support Bracket A to Left Bracket A
Step 21: install Support Bracket B to Left Bracket C.
so far so good
Step 22: torque down the Support Bracket A and Support Bracket B
Step 23: this is where I got confused.
Instructions say to REMOVE the Left Bracket A and Left Bracket C. These were installed (loosely) in Step 19 above. Why installed at Step 19 and remove now?
Step 24: install the running board.
Step 25: install Left Bracket A, Left Bracket B, Left Bracket C. So these 3 brackets get put on AFTER the running board?
Is this correct directions?
Thanks!
The directions are correct. IIRC, you put the brackets on first to get the support brackets lined up correctly, then remove the brackets to make room for attaching the running boards. Once the boards are on, put the support brackets on underneath the boards and tighten the bolts through both brackets.
#30
TLXinTX,
Thanks for the confirmation! After much more body aches and pain, I was able to finish everything: roof rails, cross bars, and the advance chrome running boards. The posts on this board have been super helpful. There was 1 spot on each running board that I had to use zip ties: at the front, on the inside, the black flabby plastic part did not line up with anything else.
Thanks for the confirmation! After much more body aches and pain, I was able to finish everything: roof rails, cross bars, and the advance chrome running boards. The posts on this board have been super helpful. There was 1 spot on each running board that I had to use zip ties: at the front, on the inside, the black flabby plastic part did not line up with anything else.
#31
Hello I have the 2017. Same color. And I like the look. Can you show me more picture and I guess you don't have take out the side sill too. I'mean glad to show this. It's very nice. And you have intrusion to install.
#32
So recently installed aftermarket RBs on our MDX and they fit great. Company is called Vangaurd and got them on EBay for $200.
Was very to install just bolt down on the brackets provided. No removal of the chromed side strip required and def. not as complicated as some posts here have mentioned Driver side installed
Was very to install just bolt down on the brackets provided. No removal of the chromed side strip required and def. not as complicated as some posts here have mentioned Driver side installed
Last edited by like2ace; 10-21-2017 at 01:39 PM.
#33
So recently installed aftermarket RBs on our MDX and they fit great. Company is called Vangaurd and got them on EBay for $200.
Was very to install just bolt down on the brackets provided. No removal of the chromed side strip required and def. not as complicated as some posts here have mentioned Driver side installed
Was very to install just bolt down on the brackets provided. No removal of the chromed side strip required and def. not as complicated as some posts here have mentioned Driver side installed
#37
I guess any material used for a step can/will wear. What is not so evident from the pictures is that the edge and the diamonds are raised significantly from the metal surface below meaning that unless you plan on jogging on the running boards, your sole will not touch the finished surface below. From how I get in and out of mine so far, I'm mostly stepping on the rubber edge.
#38
We decided to stay away from these R. boards as it was too much metal shiny material for our Silver MDX. We wanted a board with a uniform black surface for this reason.
These boards suit a White MDX however. I see that you had to remove the side chrome strip. Our boards just bolted on without the chrome strip removal, we just had to remove out the three cutouts in each side where the supports go.
These boards suit a White MDX however. I see that you had to remove the side chrome strip. Our boards just bolted on without the chrome strip removal, we just had to remove out the three cutouts in each side where the supports go.
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maveric267 (03-16-2019)
#39
Another advantage of having running boards installed is that you can stand on them and reach the roof. Great help and realized this when I washed and waxed my X today. Used the board to stand and reach the middle roof areas.
So glad to have done this.
So glad to have done this.
#40