2010 mdx vibration problem

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Old Apr 1, 2017 | 11:26 PM
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Arran Biggart's Avatar
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2010 mdx vibration problem

hello all and thank you for having me here! I have always wanted an mdx and finally purchased a 2010 with the tech package! Me and my family love it but are having a vibration issue when sitting in gear and also when in reverse and turning, it's a really loud rattling noise that seems associated with the power steeering. The vibration in gear at a stop from my experience seems like a bad engine mount. I replaced the front engine mount today and it didn't change. After replacing it I noticed an inch gap between the stopper that bolts to the top of the mount with two 17 mm nuts and the mount itself. Is this normal? Is this stopper a common failure? Did something fall off causing the gap and excessive engine movement? I can't find much on the internet on the second gen engine mount issues. Heck I couldn't even find directions or videos on how to change em. I'm kinda stuck on this issue at the moment and hope someone can help. Thanks in advance!
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Old Apr 1, 2017 | 11:55 PM
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There was a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for the Intermediate Shaft heat shield getting loose.. That will cause a rattling while in gear.
Vibration is like 99% of the Times bad engine mounts..

Which in order of difficulty:
Side = Stupid easy to replace and also cheap! This one gets damaged easily if the Front or Rear are bad
Front = Kinda annoying to replace but doable, This one will make it hit under Drive and changing gears
Rear = Absurdly difficult to replace, This one will in concert with the Front make most of the vibration felt in the car.

There are 2 Transmission mounts too both of them are easy and cheap to replace.
You don´t need a specific video for the MDX to change Engine Mounts since basically all J-Series engines share the same procedure, Just find a Pilot or a Ridgeline video which looks and works almost the same as the MDX but any V6 Equipped car from Honda & Acura have the same 3 Engine Mounts Location and change procedures.
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Old Apr 2, 2017 | 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Skirmich
There was a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) for the Intermediate Shaft heat shield getting loose.. That will cause a rattling while in gear.
Vibration is like 99% of the Times bad engine mounts..

Which in order of difficulty:
Side = Stupid easy to replace and also cheap! This one gets damaged easily if the Front or Rear are bad
Front = Kinda annoying to replace but doable, This one will make it hit under Drive and changing gears
Rear = Absurdly difficult to replace, This one will in concert with the Front make most of the vibration felt in the car.

There are 2 Transmission mounts too both of them are easy and cheap to replace.
You don´t need a specific video for the MDX to change Engine Mounts since basically all J-Series engines share the same procedure, Just find a Pilot or a Ridgeline video which looks and works almost the same as the MDX but any V6 Equipped car from Honda & Acura have the same 3 Engine Mounts Location and change procedures.

Thank you for the reply
i replaced the front and the left today. It seems that there is more play after replacing them. Do you know if there is supposed to be a gap between the top of the front mount and the stopper bolted to the top of it? Does the stopper have a rubber piece that might fall of or wear out? I wish I had another one to look at. It just doesn't seem to me like There should be an inch gap there.
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Old Apr 2, 2017 | 01:20 AM
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I sincerely cannot tell you about the 2G MDX Specific since I have yet to replace mine, They are all working fine..
What I can tell you is that in my 2G TL-S there is no gap what so ever but I do not think that will help in this scenario.


I can try to picture the setup in my MDX tomorrow if you like, I do not know if a gap is normal or not in the 2G MDX.
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Old Apr 2, 2017 | 03:34 PM
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Picture

here is a pic of the top of the mount, you can see the gap between the mount and the bracket that bolts to the top of it.
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Old Apr 2, 2017 | 04:08 PM
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Hi! that looks like a bump stop to me, for when the Engine Mount is broken the engine cannot move beyond that point.
Let me go and take a picture of mine since it hasn´t been replaced as far as I know mine should have the OEM Setup.
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Old Apr 2, 2017 | 04:16 PM
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Nevermind a picture hahah my iPhone doesn´t fit with the Fans Installed.
But I squeezed my fingers in there and yes there was the gap you pictured and I can assure you that is a Bump Stop for when the Mount Fails or when you WOT it.
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Old Apr 2, 2017 | 08:05 PM
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Try checking to see if your rear mount and transmission mounts are good. Also, does anything look like it's leaking? Are you getting any codes?
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Old Apr 2, 2017 | 08:32 PM
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Noticed you mention that you get vibrations during reverse and turning... Do you get it in normal driving as well? Trying to rule out things such as bad/unbalanced tire/wheel or a bad wheel bearing
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Old Apr 3, 2017 | 07:18 AM
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I'm sorry guys, I've replied twice but just realized I was starting new threads. My iPhone takes me right to "start new thread" when I tap login with Facebook.
Century link internet has been down for a week so no laptop!
Anyways, there are no codes, no leaks and as far as wheel bearing or unbalanced tires were good there to. It's mainly when in gear sitting still. If you power brake it you can feel a thud. When I looked under the hood it is the front mount hitting the bump stop. It did this with the old mount and the new one so I can't see it being bad. The right mount looks good. As far as the rear I'm gonna have to check it again tonight when my wife gets home with it. Thanks again for all the help.
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