As the title says when I press the washer fluid on the stalk it blows the fuse every time. It was empty for a bit, put some fluid in and it worked for a day. Next day and bam its doing this. Been like this for a few weeks now. Tried various size fuses to increase resistance 7.5, 10, 15 and all blow.

When I put in a new fuse the other devices attached to this fuse will still work perfectly. The rear view mirror dimmer works and the lught illuminates, and the power mirror controls function properly. As soon as you touch the wiper fluid stalk it blows. The wipers themselves function fine on all settings.

I was thinking I should look at the pump itself, the paperwork that came with the vehicle when I bought it says they replaced the pump when they car was traded due to innoporability. I dont know how true this is, they lie a lot. When I bought the car this fuse was blown. This was two years and 25,000 miles ago. Replaced the fuse and all was good. One time about a year ago it blew again and I upped it to a 10amp and other than that it has been fine.

TLR Fuse keeps blowing, should I look at the pump or the wiring in the steering column? Is this a known issue? I searched and every thread I find they replace the fuse and it fixes it or someone links to another thread just like that.

 

You shouldn't increase the amps of a fuse, that is never a solution.
The most likely culprit is your washer pump is bad.

 

Thanks for your input. I agree with you, in general yes I would never change a fuse's amperage. However I found several posts that linked to an Acura TSB that recommended this as a recall fix for the 3G TL. I think the pump itself has some corrosion on a wire that grounds near the headlight. I cant remember but I think I saw some when I had the bumper off but I didnt really look into it at the time. Ive been lazy about pulling it back...

 

you're right about that TSB. Sorry totally forgot. But there doesn't seem like anything else would cause this. Try unplugging the washer pump and then trying to activate the washer to rule out maybe the stalk/switch.

 

Just to make sure... this happens in warm temps or only when cold? If only when cold is there any possibility of frozen fluid?

I just done see any way around getting in there and inspecting the pump and reservoir. It could be bad wiring if the place you bought the car from used an aftermarket pump and spliced it in. It also could be that there's crap in the reservoir that as jammed the pump up (but not always or totally). It could also be a shot pump. Unfortunately the pump is about $60 so that's not really cheap enough to just shotgun and replace without doing some troubleshooting. The service manual doesn't call out any min/max motor coil resistance either.

 

Thanks for your input, that pic from the service manual actually will help. I am hoping it will be pretty obvious when I check it out, but wanted to kind of get others opinion if it would be near the pump or cuz it was electrical if maybe someone knew of a common short in the switches. But seems like everyone is leaning towards pump. I will update the thread when I get around to checking it out.

 

Oh and to answer your question no its not in just cold. I thought maybe it was that cuz it started after we had a really cold night. But its about 65 today and still doing it.

 

Considering the fuse blew, i would not test that pump on an un fused circuit.

 

Im hoping it is something obvious when I look at it like rust or its unplugged or visibly clogged or something.

 

I think the "unwritten" part in the SM is if it arcs like crazy and/or doesn't spin then disconnect right away. Easy for me to say as someone very comfortable with electronics.That said a fused test circuit isn't a bad idea at all.