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I'm the one who orders a beer at lunch.. then everybody is like..
and bossu is like.. me too.. except not really.. LOL
This was me yesterday.. went out for group bday lunch. Some indian joint.. fuck yeah.
Tell the bro, bring me a kingfisher.. he was like.. small or large.. I'm like.. c'mon mang.. do I look like a bitch (samjackson.jpg)
Drink tall boy in front of 15 people.. everyone drinking water.. I pour tall boy into glass at least. /csb
It's bullshit. I order a beer too. As everyone stares at me like I just stuck a heroin loaded syringe into my arm.
fuck off, ya yeasty maggots. It's ONE beer, for a 240 pound guy.
Shit, in Germany, you can buy bottles of beer at the fucking gas station, to enjoy while you drive. 100% legal. Just don't blow over. Giving the power back to the people, to decide, instead of ninnying them.
Joe, Jeremy, Jawknee, fuckjoe, any other Joe blow, looking for your thoughts on air tools. I wanted to get the same kit my brother bought, because it came with a 700lbft air gun. But it's fucking dis-cunt-inued and I can't find it anywhere (my brother got it at a ridiculous price too ). Today I bought the lesser kit, with "only" 420lbft of torque. Y'all think that will suffice? I'm just wondering if shit is seized or rusted like a motherfucker, if I should get something with more torque.
It's my first air tool kit I've ever bought. Regular $379, I got it for $99 . Canadian Tire always has fucking stupid pricing like that.
Only hand tools and power tools for me.. I'm sold on dewalt's 20v line. I don't think you're going to pop the crank pulley bolt with that gun, maybe axle nut, probably not..
I hope you have a big ass compressor too. I think the big impacts flow something like 15 cfm.
I'd never hit the wheels with a pneumatic gun unless it was to pop the lugs. Maybe shitty electric drill. I pretty much have a torque wrench set to 80 permanently. Rarely will I use a different socket and torque setting on it.
That's all I really use my torque wrench for also, to be honest. If it was engine related stuff, I'd use the smaller one I have, but yeah... the big one... only lugs. I always do 88lbft though. I hate having to retorque my wheels and setting to 88, I never have to.
Isn't it bad to leave a torque wrench torqued? I've always been taught to bring it back to 0.
Doing some suspension work, that air gun worked wonderfully. My rear Sway Bar end link was so rusted, I couldn't even get the Allen key into the whole. Even if I did it probably just strip it. I was able to hold the end link from spinning with a set of vice grips and hit it with the air gun... made quick work.
I've only just bought air tools today because I'm not a big fan of them either. I always did shit by hand also. But for 99 bucks... shiiiiet, why not. My compressor is tiny. Good horsepower but small tank- 5.5gal I think. It was able to do the work I needed though. But yeah, I drain that fucker real quick.
If it came to the crank pulley bolt, I'd get someone to hold the socket wrench in place and I'd just slap a 5 or 6 foot pipe extension on it, to crack it. Once again, just do it by hand.. this pneumatic stuff is so foreign to me
Last edited by TacoBello; Feb 4, 2017 at 08:18 PM.
no air tools for me, electric as well.. I have a Craftsman digi-click digital torque wrench that is always set to 80 ft-lbs too. I've considered getting a compressor for the garage and air tools but meh.. With the advent of awesome electric tools, why bother having a loud ass compressor in your garage?
I've eyed the Dewalt 20V line but I really want to get the Milwaukee Fuel Surge M18 line instead.
I'll be honest... I didn't even think about electric tools for the garage.
Shiiiiiet.
No regrats though. The tools feel nice and they made quick work of my rusted to shit, rear driver side suspension today, in order for me to replace the funky shaped metal bracket that holds the RSB in place. I snapped my RSB bracket mounting point. No subframe damage though. Not that I can see. The bracket just connects to the knuckle. This is the second time it's happened on the car, but it was the first time I've caused it. I bought the car with it originally broken. I think the end links were set to
I've also taken my compressor from "under used", to "justify buying a larger one"
I will look into the electrical tools. Maybe I'll want one of them
I have a feeling that driving over speed bumps unevenly has led to the bracket failure. But to be honest, it's just not always possible to do so, with where the speed bumps are sometimes placed.
my rear driver's side window hasn't worked in a few months. I washed the car one day, it then got cold as fuck and my windows froze in place. I had the brilliant idea of trying to force the window down, until the motor stopped making sound. Uh oh.
first thing I did was check the fuses. They look ok. To be sure, I switched the two 20A fuses for the rear windows and both fuses worked for the other window.
I then figured I must've burned the motor out. Ok, so I bought a new assembly to install. Put it in, but I had to hit the switch to move the motor down a bit. Everything is connected. The light on the door switch doesn't light up. Hmmm, odd. I hit the switch, no sound. I checked to see if the drivers main window disable switch was on and it is not. So what the fuck is going on?
I also noticed that even though I pulled the fuse for the working window, I could still hear a click every time I hit the switch, coming from the door- I assume that's a relay of some sort? When I tried the same on the broken door, no sound. But where the fuck is this relay, or whatever the fuck it is??
also, not sure if it matters, but the window switch for the broken window on the drivers door is illuminated. But again, the switch on the broken door is not.
did the door switch burn out? I don't want to order it, as I'm guessing it's pretty pricey, unless I know for a fact that it is the issue.
Last edited by TacoBello; Feb 5, 2017 at 12:42 PM.
Ok, looking online, it looks like I can order the whole switch, or just the relay. Is the relay inside the switch? (like if I order the switch, will it have a new relay inside?)
if not, where would the relay be? Just wondering which way I should go to fix this
proud
). Today I bought the lesser kit, with "only" 420lbft of torque. Y'all think that will suffice? I'm just wondering if shit is seized or rusted like a motherfucker, if I should get something with more torque.
@ Patriots...
