gopeman

Hello all!

I'm looking to install a single 12" Alpine Type-R in my stock 2008 Acura TL Base Non-Navi. I don't want to invest in any electrical upgrades (or at least not now) such as a better alternator, 2nd battery, or Big 3 Upgrades. Will this sub in a ported enclosure along with an amp that will power it sufficiently/safely impact my electrical system? Here are the details below:

• 1000 Watts RMS
• 3000 Watts Max
• 4 Ohm
• Dual Voice Coil
Model: Alpine Type-R SWR-12D4

Thank you.

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thoiboi

flyromeo3

I would suggest the following:

1. run a 0 gauge wire from your battery to the trunk.
2. Get a capacitor for the amp being used to power subs.

WDPinit

1000W should be fine. These cars have pretty good alternators. Slightly unrelated, but sound deadening WILL be quite necessary on this car if you want good sound. Rattles are horrible in the 3G TL and I am planning to add some to mine since I have system. Keep that in mind lol

03max6spd

what areas would you suggest deadening? i have a sun down x series 10" sub thats quite powerful and i have some left over dynamat from my last audio build.

WDPinit

I haven't done this to my car yet, but I'm planning to do so soon. Typically in a sedan with a sub placed in the trunk you're going to want to get the trunk lid. Start with that and see where it's still rattling bad enough for you to really notice. Rear deck is prone to rattles so you may want to get that as well, but you'll have to remove the rear seats to do so. Take the factory sub out while you're at it lol. I and many other members have just shoved some of that foam roll with adhesive in between the rear deck and the window, it definitely helps alot with the rattles. If you want the full run down and some install pictures send a PM to Sockr1, he's been a big help.

03max6spd

ah excellent the trunk and rear deck is on the list, ill just use whatever mat i have left and go from there.

sockr1

iTrader: (5)

Feel free to email me for any of these questions too stephen

03max6spd

oh hey champ! haha i sure will, im nearing the purchase of the car just waiting on the seller. ive been in touch with Jesse for the modified amp as well, and my buddy is making me a box for my sundown!

SocomM4

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys, running a single kicker CVX (round L7) with 2.5ish quft slot ported box at 40hz, paired up with a kicker cx1200.1 Amp. Feeding the sub 800w@4ohm and pulling signal from the factory sub plug, to a kicker LoC.

couple things to watch out for,

If you tap into the factory sub wire in the rear deck (after the amp) it's an amplified signal, turn down the potentiometer about 1/2 way on the line out converter.

Trunk lid- Adjust it to be held down tighter. Pull the trim piece that covers the locking latch on the car. Loosen the 2 bolts holding it in position , and move it down to the bottom of the range of adjustment. tighten back up. Dont put trim back.
You want it to take a decent amount of force to close the trunk lid. If you can't close it, adjust the catch up a little till it *just* closes. On mine, that virtually eliminated trunk rattle.

Now, it's the rear decks turn.

Rear deck bottom-
Most of the rattle comes not from sound wave rattle, but air transferring from the trunk to the cabin through the vent in the rear deck. If you pull down and look under the top trunk liner, you will see the holes that run across the top edge of the trunk on each side of the trunk light. I covered them with gorrilla tape,and reinstalled the liner.

The trunk light itself rattles, foam around it.

Rear Deck Top-
Pull the rear deck. Along the rear ,there may or may not be felt there that's glued to the edge and underside of the deck. if so,leave it.
If not ,buy some 1/8 felt and use spray glue. Press it down to the underside of deck 4 inches wide, and trim the excess 1\4 inch from the edge. roll around the edge to the top of the deck, then cut off the remaining excess. That takes care of it hitting the rear window.
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There is also a little guide / mount on the underside of the deck that you will see and a corresponding piece of steel that it locks onto in the frame in the rear of the shelf. I wrapped the tab of steel with sticky rubber tape.

95 % rattleless. Small trim rattles at certain notes, but overall very tollerable.

Get a tone generator for your phone or tablet and slide through them and stop when you hear a rattle, find it, fix it. Go lower. Work your way down to a little below your box tuning. Set your filter there.


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WDPinit

Wow, useful tips right there. Thanks! The potentiometer thing on the LOC is a term I'm not familiar with so a pic would be cool for that. The trunk tightening makes a lot of sense so I'll have to try that one soon!

SocomM4

iTrader: (2)

The Potentiometers are like input level adjusters, on this line out converter , they are inside the two holes. Small flathead "screws" .
2 channel loc like this one, connect both channels positive and both channel negatives .

SocomM4

iTrader: (2)

Your sub is dual 4ohm coils, or dual 2ohm?
The ohms to the amp are important in the decision of which one and how much power.

My amp can produce massively underrated power at 2 ohm load. But, I only really need 750-800 clean watts.

​​​​​​So, I'm running a dual 2ohm sub, 4ohm total.
That cuts the output from my amp in half, and let's me gain up to the desired 800w. Since the amp isn't working very hard, there's no clipping, no distortion and no heat build up. Added benefit is, if I want to add a second cvx, I get another 4ohm load sub, and end up at a 2ohm load to the amp.

Think about what you want, what you might want, and buy once.





Here's some wiring diagrams for the sub and amp.
http://www.kicker.com/wiring-diagrams