Hello there. Acura newbie here; just got an RL 2009.

Was trying to figure out the navigation and address book / bluetooth for a while, then my car did start anymore.

So i went in the house. Came back out a couple of hours later, car started.

Do these charge by themselves somehow?

This was odd. But this car seems loaded with gizmos not usually seen on other brands.

Look forward to sharing with you.

thanks!

 

No. It did not recharge itself. I will assume that waiting a few hours allowed the battery to regain a few volts. Enough to start the car. Driving it will recharge it but if you have a battery charger I recommend using it. An alternator is not really designed to charge a depleted battery. Charging it fully with a battery charger will help the battery regain its full power and help to prevent damage to the alternator.

 

I would expect to replace your battery soon. The RL eats them up.

 

Going to the dealer where it was serviced to check when was the last battery put in.

Btw, i'm used to German cars, this car is no sport car, and the interface and Bluetooth kinda sucks. And why they got no update for it, for a brand like Acura, is beyond me. But I like the car it's quite stable even though it feels as if it's not and feels a bit floaty, I've squeezed it on corners and wet surfaces, it's very stable.

i'm also looking forward to less/no garage visits like the Audi put me thru

 

Check battery itself should have a code/date on it.

Could loose cables be a cause of this?

 

They didn't date it.

No sorry my initial post isn't clear. I just got this car and sat in it for over an hour trying to figure out how to enter an address and how to use the hands free phone. So key was open but engine not running. meaning I drained the battery

 

We had a replacement car while we looked for this one, a C300, and how the navigation just heard me say to it the whole address and it found it was almost magic. And phone-wise all you gotta do is pair the phone. Then you just say a name that exists on your phone's address book and it will find it.

I was surprised at this spell the city name one letter at a time business.

Also, when the computer asks a questions, or reconfirms, you have to press talk each time. On the C300 no. You simply reply.

A better interface would have made this car so much more value. The interface makes the car look cheap. And they wonder why it didn't sell.

 

Yeah the UI could likely use some help but I generally dont pair my phones or use GPS but if that MB is newer that explains the ease of use. In the technology lifecycle 4-5 years is a lifetime in terms of ease of use.

Try using GPS from early 2002 or 2003 in a BMW talk about archaic.

Good luck on the battery issue I just dont get how letting it sit will allow it to kick it over as theres no charge but I'd be curious what you find out.

 

The problem with infotainment systems is that they age fast. The RL's now-crappy infotainment isn't any different from other cars. One of my friend's 2005 BMW X5 (pre-iDrive) has the most archaic system I've ever seen. Compared to the 2005-2009 RL it's total junk. If you want an up-to-date infotainment system, buy a new car.

 

The 2005-2012 RLs are all running on 2004 technology. iPhones didn't exist for three more years. That's what we are comparing with.

 

Me neighther. The 1st reply to my thread seems to get it right: "it picked up a few volts" But it just started on its own a couple of hours later.

Obviously i kept it on, and went for a drive. Yesterday i got it checked at my garage, he says it's "over 10". Which he says is good.

So it recharged from driving.

 

Well, I shouldn't have to buy a new car. That goes especially to those who have owned their cars for a few years and invested much in them and have a relationship with them. It's like: get a new wife.

a little DVD to upgrade that OS or that interface isn't too much to ask, is it?

 

 

What didn't you get there sport? the 'me neither' reply was legit.

As for the over 10, I am no battery expert hence why i came in here initially. If my garage is giving bad advice, then by all means chime in with your loaded experience helping out.

Isn't that why U r here?

 

I wasn't making fun, just laughing at what I found humorous. First thing was "neighther". Hence the horse. Second thing is that a battery is designed for 12V. I would consider 11.4-12.6 to be acceptable range, +/-5%. 10V is 16.6% off though and would have a major effect on electronics designed for 12V supplies.

One thing you will learn hanging out around here is that the RL eats batteries. Some people only get 6 months out of brand new ones. It doesn't happen often, but it does. 1-2 years of service is pretty common, but 2-3 is average. Another thing is that battery "tests" have passed numerous RL batteries that were causing electronic nightmares.

I believe your situation of sitting for too long in ACC but being able to start later. It can happen. But like I said in my first post, be prepared to buy a new battery. It's just a nature of the beast, and the RL isn't the only luxury sedan cruiser affected.

 

I type fast and I can't figure out yet how to edit a post to fix spelling.

yea, i read the thread about the Christmas lights and the battery being the actual problem source. It's an Acura battery in the car so my guess is it isn't all that. I plan on buying a high amps one or the 'gel' one, as recommended in that thread on here. Hopefully this will last till next fall.

Great forum!

 

Pretty sure new members can't edit their posts. Once you become registered, you have 15 min to edit a post.

In any case, your spelling is much better than many members here, so just roll with the occasional punches, and you'll do just fine.

 

I'd like to think we are a welcoming bunch, at least on the RL side of things.

 

Understood.

As for punches, i'm the guy usually launching them. But i'll pay my dues, no worries. We'll get along just fine

Are we newbies allowed to post videos?

 

I take it I'm the token black guy...

 

You may have expected correctly. for two days, I open ignotion, lights go on, then if I crank, I get just a click. I have to tun off ignition, then try again, it starts. Today, had to do that twice.

Went to a little garage/station, he tested it while cranking, we felt weakness. he said alternator is changing well doesn't seem to be that.

He suggested he tries and chage it for me for an hour then to see.

Battery is an Acura battery, installed exactly 2 years ago.

I'm not sure if I should place it on a charger, or buy one; or maybe it can be something else?

 

You could probably squeeze another few months out of it, but after the summer and into your hard winter, I wouldn't be surprised if it leaves your stranded even if that's at home. Did you buy the battery? If not, just buy a new one. If so and cost is a concern, there should be an Acura warranty on it.

 

I dunno if I wanna milk it. Doesn't it make the alt's life harder? Also, weaker signals some sensors would get cranky, no?

I'm gonna see, but i think i'll probably change it. Heading to Costco to check what's their specs. in meantime I found those, and got no clue why they got such a price difference and the same specs.

 

I don't recommend milking it. Most of the time, cost difference comes in the form of a warranty. Lower tier options will have 1 year full with 3 year prorated while top tier options have 3 year full, 6 year prorated warranties.

 

Yep. The Acura branded battery is 2 years old. I'd pay 75% of 130Can$. I'm guessing lower tier. +50$ test.

I just got back from Costco, and the other store that sells the above. Costco never carried a battery for our cars except the 1st Generation.

I'm leaning towards the 160$ in the snaps above. i think both same warranty. Difference seems to be this AGM technology that lasts longer and doesn't leak. It's for ppl who need the battery for indoor usages, or camping, etc. If it breaks, it doesn't leak any fluid; which otherwise can be quite dangerous.

 

Hmm. I never considered a battery leaking.

 

With the dealer charging 40usd+ to test the battery, and see if it needs replacing, only 2 yrs 100% coverage, and with the specs on dealer batteries; my conclusion is you are absolutely better off always buying your battery elsewhere.

 

This stopped working gradually. The rear windows buttons on the drivers door don't open. Only front ones. Then only drivers opens. And each one can open his own window only. One click open doesn't work anymore, have to keep pressing to open the window.

Am I in the right thread?

 

You need to do the window reset procedure. This is not the right thread, but go to the door affected and hold the window button down until the window is all the way down and continue holding for 5 seconds. Then pull up and hold until the window is all the way up + 5 seconds.

 

I meant was this caused by the battery? I haven't changed it yet.

Gonna try that reset procedure.

 

My bet is a two year old battery can still be re-charged. I bought yesterday I trickle down charger (30USD), you can charge your battery from the cigarette lighter plug. Will try that tonight overnight.

 

Sorry, but nope...1) how do you charge your battery from... well... your battery (cigarette lighter)?... 2) I tried charging my old battery with a normal battery charger and it did not work. Had an Acura battery that went bad exactly 2 years after I bought it. The car started/worked fine, but the ABS, CBMS, ACC warnings started to come on randomly...I went with the Motormaster "black" battery and still had the warnings come in, just less often. Went with the ultra and have had no issues since (almost a year ago now).

 

MotoMaster Eliminator Intelligent Battery Charger, 2A
FEATURES

• Ideal for charging small batteries and maintaining larger batteries
• Built-in intelligent microprocessor makes charging faster, easier and safer
• Automatically switches from full charge to maintenance mode to maintain batteries during prolonged periods of storage without overcharging or damaging the battery
• Multi-stage charging provides a more thorough battery charge
• Suitable for all types of 12V lead-acid batteries, including gel cell and AGM
• Includes 3 different quick connect options; clamps, ring terminals and 12V accessory plug
• Built in mounting tabs for optional permanent installation
• LED indicators provide charge status and warn of reverse polarity connections

My only concern is if our batter doesn't fall under 'small batteries'. Store clerk says if battery is not entirely empty/dead, it will charge it fully overnight.

Check it our at CanadianTire. I didn't try it yet, maybe tonight

 

I tested it out. You're correct on the 12v plug in the car. Both plugs are cut off by the ignition being turned off. if you turn on the ignition it works - but its counter productive. So i connected it straight to the battery. charging.

 

I bought a generic Schumacher Tender/Maintainer. It does have the ability to slowly charge the battery if it is down, but make sure you buy the model with the higher amp rating for that. I usually hook it up if the car is going to be parked for awhile or if I'm doing something like you did as well. Just be aware that if the battery has a bad cell, it might charge initially but you will suffer the same problem in the not so distant future.

 

I should've gotten the 4A indeed. Charged it all night, had to hold onto the ignition today by the afternoon to start it, and the navi code was requested.

Gonna get that battery Tuesday - tomorrow day off. I'm thinking gel like Fuchfaccio did, unless you got cheaper options you know have worked.

 

I took out the Acura battery and the car was dead on power for over 30 minutes. i install the new one, i needed my codes, and all my presets were gone. i arrive home, wash up, leave again, all my presets are back as if nothing changed.

How? did the car save them in a hard drive?

 

There is no hard drive. I believe the settings are stored in some type of ROM, most likely an EEPROM. Without knowing every specific detail of what you did and the state of the car, we can only speculate what happened.

Here's my guess. When you disconnected the battery, the car's circuits lost power abruptly and did not go through a shutdown sequence. When you put the new battery in, the circuits came up in an unknown state. If you know anything about D-flip flops, you will know what I'm talking about. Because of the unknown state of some circuits, the car could not determine how to get to or how to interpret the ROM, so it prompted you to enter your info. When you turned the car off, left it (especially if you locked it), and came back, the car came up in a known good state, and the electronics were able to access the memory.

It's feasible under my elementary understanding of the car's circuits, but honestly, .

 

It does make sens to store info in a ROM...

Part of me was happy all got reset in order to re-build the settings from scratch including the brake assist feature and gas pedal sensitivity, and if there's any electronic gremlins that built up. But also, another part was happy to be saved all the trouble or reprogramming.

What is for certain is I see why you often said: check the battery, or its cables, etc.

The car drives better. Can't put my finger on the reason but it does.

I think RL owners from 2nd generation onward need to ensure the battery they got exceeds the OE specs. If you got an Accura battery in there, I suggest you don't wait, get 20 bucks for it and buy one 750CCA and above, and spend an extra 60+ bucks on the battery too it's worth it - especially if you live in very hot or cold areas. The amount of sensors and electronics in the car alone is worth it. Also, since the car will reduce functionalities due to less power from the battery, in order to still be able to turn the engine on, it will in many cases go on for months and the driver wouldn't even know the battery is low on power. Then the alternator depreciates exponentially faster, and various lights may come on the dashboard which is only music to the dealer's scanning and sensor selling ears.