OK 570 miles I got check emissions system and a cel.

Also found out my 10 yo code reader could not pull the code.


Can anyone recommend a code reader about a hundo that will read the code?

I pulled the neg and reset but I know I need the code.

 

https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...rquefree&hl=en

+

 

thanks I ordered one of those/



my code was a P0139 . the nav told me/


So now what....

 

You can use the app and dongle to reset the CEL. P0139 is slow response from the 2nd O2 sensor. I've notice it appears if you accelerate hard and then decelerate fast on a cold engine. I have flashpro so I just disable the 2nd O2 sensor.

 

Getting on highway pretty much to floor and someone pulled out in front of me.

So sounds like 'just don't do that' ......

 

Hey Robpp, as a fellow wagon owner I am looking into the PCD and the Vibrant Resonator. What do you mean, "So sounds like 'just don't do that'" ??? Can you elaborate. Are you saying coupling these with our I4 and heavier frame the mod hasnt really amounted to much for you?

 

P0139 code is for faulty O2 sensor, exhaust leak, or damaged O2 wiring.

When your engine is cold, the air going through the engine is cooler and more dense. The denser the air, the more O2 there is in the air. The ECU calculates how much fuel is required to prevent the engine from going too lean. When you get on the gas when the engine is cold, the exhaust slightly has more O2 in it which triggers the P0139 code, sensing too much O2 in the exhaust. Maybe a slightly longer or shorter defouler or maybe drilling out the defouler opening bigger would help, but its a really fine line tuning the defouler to trick the O2 sensor to think everything is normal.

You can still get on the gas when the engine is cold, but you might trigger the CEL. All you need to do is just clear the code using an OBD reader.

 

^^^^^^^yup when I said Don't do that meant don't get on it when cold.

I bought the baxf OBD dongle to clear the codes. And the torque app.

I have about 1000 miles on it and threw code twice.

 

Ugh... thanks guys... I was getting excited about this but with the CELs and the additional 120 lbs of curb weight with the wagon Im tempering my expectations and starting to back off a bit.

 

I would say the pipe saves 20-40 lbs.......not sure where your data is from/

 

I mean 120 lb weight diff between the sedan I4 tsx and our wagons. Got that from acura's site. We get less of a positive gain from the mod bc our wagons weigh as much as 120 more than an I4 tsx sedan.

 

well the pipe cuts that diff by 20

get a set of forged wheels and you might make up the complete difference/

 

Less rotational mass FTW!!!

 

...I guess the CEL is a hit or a miss with the VR6 I4 PCD/downpipe install... Install it at your own risk...What do you guys/gals say, who have installed it of course?

 

I got the CEL, I did not ever adjust the nut on the cat defouler.

I utilized the flashpro to clear up the issue.

 

I get it but it goes a way in a few days and doesn't pop back up for a couple weeks. I believe its been previous discussed if you're WOT and sudden slow down the light pops up. It didn't bother me and when I had to take my car for service at acura I just disconnect the battery for a few minutes to erase it. I now have a FP and my O2 sensor is currently disabled

 

This is what I had been doing also, but when I went for emissions testing, the car failed. Flashpro makes the sensor go "not ready". If you are not in an emission testing state, you should be fine. However, if you are in a state, and you messed with your defouler, and you have flashpro, has anyone left their secondary and primary CAT enabled? If so, how many miles did you have to drive before the sensors went "ready"?

I took my car up and down the highway last night, 41 miles I drove, and the sensors are still "not ready". This is a serious buzz kill.

Emissions are a total scam.

 

I have Flashpro and both O2 sensors still enabled and was able to pass emissions no problem. I just use an OBD scanner, park 2 blocks down from the test facility, wipe out any codes, go get the test, and finally once you pass, disable the O2 sensor again.

 

I love Florida for its gun laws and no emissions testing

 

So... I took it out for another extended drive, and even did some WOT blasts up to highway speed and decelerating, out where there were no other cars. NO breaking the law, just WOT, stop... rinse repeat... and did a few decelerations, the car feels NORMAL. It feels great, bring it in the garage, and check it, only the evap is showing not ready now...

SO, tomorrow morning I'm going to check it again, if I need to go for a short drive around, I'll do that, but I want to get this thing done tomorrow.

I moved the defouler, and I "think" it's all good.

I will tell you this, I was getting 28 miles a gallon cruising around on the highway, that's average. That's higher than I ever received having the secondary o2 shut down.

So, wish me luck... send positive vibes whatever....

After I do the turbo and everything is tuned, I'm going to get this done up right so that I can just get emissions working out of the box. No more messing with this colossal time waster... more focus on boost....

 

The only time I ever get a CEL is when the car is still warming up and I let off the gas in a certain way. If I remember to just push in the clutch when decelerating during this initial warm up it doesn't appen. Occasionally,,, when I do get the CEL, just driving for a couple of days or pulling the negative battery cable for 20 seconds (doesn't wipe the radio codes) takes care of it. Really like the upgrade and willing to deal with the occasional CEL as the price of doing business...

 

Same experience with my wagon.



TTL.....if u have tech you can clear nav codes. Do a search in here. Same as gen1.

 

For anyone that cares, I DID pass emissions. The defouler I took everything apart, verified the openness of said defouler.

Following instructions on here, I loosened the nut as much as possible, turned the defouler, as far forward as possible, while still allowing access to the o2 sensor via an extension socket from the top of the engine bay. After I verified fitment, I tightened the nut, ensuring no movement.

After this point, there were no codes to clear, and I drove on it for roughly ~90 miles.

MPG has picked up, though this could be to me spending so much time on the highway, as I tend to not be on the freeway too often anymore, other than to drive to the airport.

I left the o2 enabled, and plan on doing so after the turbo is in, even if I have to extend the second o2 sensor down and place it after the catalyst under the car.

Big amount of stress gone, and I cannot wait to strap the turbo on now.

 

Also big thanks to Richie @ rv6.com, Axion of Axion Industries on Facebook, and the site admins on hondata.com forums for answering questions.

From all the information I was able to obtain what I required. It is appreciated.

 

Yeah it's turbo time dam I cant wait to see that thing running with the EFR turbo

 

Thread revival.. mainly to try and keep particular posts in the appropriate threads.

GameOver69, I read that you have the RV6 PCD+HFC with a CT-E catback. Do you have a video of how this combo sounds? You did say you didn't notice much rasp when you first got the RV6 parts installed, just curious if your opinion has changed over time.

 

I'm seriously contemplating getting an sp elite cat-back built for the 8th gen accords.. Tuned for our cars motor and the pipe run should be very similar if not identical.. The only concern I have with this is the muffler clearance because changing pipe length and hangar location etc is pretty easy for the muffler man.. I just don't want to get the catback and find out the muffler is too long to fit or some shit like that though.. This skunk2 header has really ripped through my factory exhaust just keeps getting louder and louder. That rasp doe

 

That'd be legit! Isn't their I4 exhaust a single exit exhaust? I wish RV6 would report every now and then progress on their catback that's in the works.

 

Totally wrong !! Second O2 sensor only measures catalytic efficiency or change from 1st O2. When the sensor is pulled out such as in a O2 spacer, the reading stays constant and PO139 code is thrown.

Q

 

Yeah single out exhaust has been a thought of mine for quite some time now... I will def keep up with any progress in my thread below

https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...st-mod-907082/

 

Custom mufflers and resonators are on the way! Just need to pick some tips options.

 

If I may, I suggest something clean like one the following :

credit: Isi and her beautiful euro


credit: @fc_jimmytsx on IG. Beautiful Spirior from China

Mugen tips would also look very nice imo.


credit: Mugen

 

Also, clearance with the Progress RSB would be nice.

 

I love it. Is that just the rear bumper?


Is the progress rear sway bar different from the stock one?

 

That's the OEM modulo rear bumper, optional from the factory as part of the "sport" or "aero" kit. Looks amazing, especially on Isi's car

It's a 22mm RSB. Stock is 17mm. I haven't seen a picture that shows the difference between the two side-by-side, but I just wanted to bring this up simply because it's a very common mod amongst CU2 owners, and that many other chassis/platforms have issues with aftermarket exhausts playing nicely with aftermarket RSBs. I actually haven't heard of this ever being an issue for the CU2, but just wanted to put that out there. I'm sure this will simply be a non-issue

Thanks!

Oh, and I suppose this might be a tough one for you guys, but many of us are looking forward to very competitive pricing from RV6 as this is likely going to be a standard I4 aftermarket dual exhaust catback (i.e., non-true dual). Many of us are considering purchasing the Fujitsubo Legalis R, which we all know is a very reputable Japanese company that's been making JDM exhausts for many, many years now. This catback exhaust can be had for about $1100 USD, taxes and shipping from Japan in, from RHDJapan.com. At least one individual on this forum has confirmed their purchase with them and have received the unit without having to pay any additional duty charges, which is a very attractive option IMO. Now, I might just be speaking for myself here, but I'd definitely love to support RV6 as a growing American company who we also know, makes amazing parts (in love with the PCD!), and I'd definitely be interested in what you guys have to offer if the price is right.

Thanks for reading!! We can't wait to hear/see more of what you guys have planned for us!

 

Any updates on the cat-back?

The custom one from RV6 for TL-S sounds so awesome!

 

Yea, any update on the catback and can we get a definitive answer for the P0138 code?

P0138: i just need to add another defouler onto the ones that i already have? I'm getting mixed info reading through this and i only read one contradicting statement about the fix for the P0138.

Love the pipe, just hate living with emissions testing.

 

Have you tried tightening the defouler, while ensuring the opening for the sensor is pointed upwards? It needs to be tight, but there's also a preferred orientation. I suggest trying this out before getting a new (or addtional) defouler. I haven't thrown a code once.

 

agree with xtc check your defouler WITH A WRENCH.

my pipe was in only a few thousand miles and when i took it out the defouler almost FELL out.

 

We are moving to a larger space so we can have more room for manufacturing. We have the custom resonators just have to do some tinkering.

P0138 is either a defective sensor or loose wire on the secondary O2 sensor. We were somehow able to push the one of the pins out of the housing once and got this code.