ack pm your number

 

spoke to level 10 transmissions about line pressure, soleniods, clutches and so on...

scroll back several pages or so when we were talking about the tq converter, regulator spring and stator...

level 10 said to in order to increase line pressure in the early rpm range you need to change out the regulator spring to one with less tension. He recommended about 75% less tension then stock for my setup with 15psi. That "should" give full or close to full line pressure in the lower rpms where it feels like im experiencing the sliipping.

level 10 also said that after swapping the spring I should adjust the soleniods on top of the trans by 1/4 turn at a time. He said adjusting the soleniods WITHOUT swapping the spring first probably wouldnt do anything. Reminds of that thread a few years ago about the guy adjusting the soleniods on his stock tl and needed that special tool from sonex

Finally, they said raybestos now offers clutches for the tl. raybestos honda gpx clutches

http://www.raybestospowertrain.com/r...=55&Itemid=237

level 10 and raybestos recommend dw1 fluid with these clutches. I talked about my use of type f so far and he had nothing bad to say about it but noted that raybestos recommended dw1

I wish I would of known about this fu*cking spring when I did the converter swap. Might have prevented all this.

 

ran a suzuki gsxr600 from a dig to about 120. put about 2 car lengths on the bike.

more updates later

 

^^^

ahahah those gixxers are quick....damn 2 car lengths nice.....

 

You are giving that trans no slack are you?

Details on the bike run. From a dig... wow. How far ahead did he get before you began to reel him back in? What was your mph when the cross over happened where he stops pulling away and you began to reel him in?

 

That is a ridiculous kill!
Congrats and would love to hear the details as well.

 

 

Went for a ride last night before I head home. Pretty much beating on the tranny in every possible way lol.

Already bought a 6spd tranny so Im doing the swap. Bye bye auto

Myself and the bike were at a light and I had rodney in the car. Bike revved at me while at the light so he wanted to run. Tire spin on the top of 1st, backed off the gas a bit so the trans would shift, spinning top of 2nd, backed off again a tiny bit so I could shift, definitely slipping 3rd gear at 6000ish rpm. RPMs jump back and forth a few hundred but basically stay in the same place and the car is still accelerating. Have to shift to 4th when this happens. 4th gear grabs with no slip and pulls very hard. 16psi at 3500rpm. Backed off at 120ish at 2 car lengths ahead

There was never a moment when the bike was ahead of me. Im guessing he wasnt very good at launching that thing bc he should of definitly jumped ahead when I was spinning top of 1st. He was at my door from 1st through 2nd and I started pulling away from 70 to 120

 

Was really hoping the Auto would hold up.. I really don't think lv10 or any other trans shop will be able build a reliable trans. 6MT is the way to go.

 

Congrats on joining the 6MT crowd.

Definitely the right decision. Will you be using the J&R twin disc clutch?

You have earned a big "Attaboy" for the valiant effort with the 5AT :surrender Hopefully you will be able to sell the converter on the BM fairly easily to someone that is thinking about doing the Stage 2 cams. The Stage 2 cams cry for a loose converter.

Thanks for the race details. It was an exciting read. Awesome that he was never ahead.

 

^^^

 

That's how it usually goes with bikes. Not many riders that can and/or will launch hard. Most are afraid to get on it until second gear. If you tell another bike owner you beat one they won't believe you. There are guys that think no car can beat any bike and they really can't accept it got beat off the start. I've gone from a roll with a few 750s and those bikes seem to have trouble keeping the front tire on the ground even at 60-70mph. There's always the second before the turbo spools where the rider is leaned forward with the front tire a foot off the ground right next to me. I've always wondered if at that point they're backing off a little or fully into it.

Outrunning one with a slipping 3rd gear is amazing. I hate to see the auto go and I'm curious how reliable the 6mt will be. So the natural question is, what are you going to do with the high stall convertor?

 

^ The truth.

 

yep

I hate to see it go also but I know with the 6 speed I can really take advantage of what this motor can do.

Ill be selling the converter on the BM when the trans gets pulled. Interested? Im going to replace the third gear clutches and try to sell the trans also

 

^^^ if you dont mind me asking, how much are you looking for the high stall converter ?

 

^I bought a used converter for 200 and the restall/upgrade cost 429 from import performance transmission.

1300 miles on that converter since it was broken down and upgraded. 1200 of those miles were during the break in period for the new motor. 100 boosted miles and the car is sitting now until the 6spd swap.

Ill have to think about but somewhere around 500 but dont quote me on that.

 

^^^ imma try to see if i can steal that from you....

gimme couple days to figure out....if am driving down to FL, i might get this installed at Rodney's....so no shipping/paypal charges .....lemme see how much my tax refund is gonna be and will make the decision

 

Definitely interested. It's something I would just sit on until the trans needs a rebuilt but it would be nice to have.

 

the converter will still be in the car for atleast a month until all the parts for the swap come in

 

^^^ holy zoom mofo !!!

yeah, as i said, i will need some time as well....hoping it will all work out for both of us

just on a NA car, switching the stock converter with the stall converter, what changes do you expect ? some hp/tq gains in itself ?

 

Power won't and can't change from a converter. When you hit the gas from a dead stop, the rpms will rise higher, putting the engine into the powerband quicker. A NA car will see most of the benefits off the line. It *might* stop it from dropping out of vtec when it shifts to 4th. Gas mileage will take a hit around town, unaffected on the freeway. On my GN, I went from about 15 around town with a 2,400 stall to 8mpg with a 3,800 stall. Again, freeway with a lockup is unaffected.

With that said, I bid $20 more than Swoosh on the converter.

 

Hey..... someone is "sitting" on some vids that they haven't shared yet? But, better late than never. Thanks for the vid Bert.

Check out those motor mounts. The motor did not move AT ALL. Are those Innovative mounts? 75, 85, 90?

 

hahaha, if am planning to go to FLorida, then i will get the converter....if I plan on not going, its all yours LOL

but yeah you mentioned "the rpms will rise higher, putting the engine into the powerband quicker." hence am assuming on a NA you will see some TQ numbers and not dip in the TQ when VTAAAKKK is engaged....

and yeah I bet after cams (if i go that route) my mpg is gonna take a poop, so might as well....

am hoping to coupe some of that back by moderate weight loss measure

i did notice that as well....for some reason my 60A are not doughnut-ing at all....i wanted them to doughnut so i could swap em out LOL....

 

We'll see what Bert says. You were a few posts after mine.

 

Sounds like IHC is calling DIBS. Plus, he is the highest bidder.

IHC =

 

Well crap. I really wanted to see what you could do with that Auto trans. It will be interesting to see if someone else takes what you have done and goes farther by installing those upgraded disks, and ups the line pressure some.

JR

 

hahaha...you asked what he was gonna do with it, i asked if he would sell it to me....buahahaha

but either way, spoke to Rodney and even if am going to FL, we can get a new one installed....so u can have the one from Bert and put it to some good use sir...

fixed thanks for the love Tim LOL

 

I was giving you a heads-up of what IHC was up to. I had your best interest at heart.

 

^^^ haha yeah he was bidding $20 more than me so LOL....Cant beat that bid

 

while you two are busy making out, matt and I are going on a date.

 

It's not that important, I don't want to get anyone pissed off. It costs me $100 out the door to get a converter done because I still get an incredible discount from back in the day when I did that for a living. I was just thinking it would be nice to have one waiting to speed up rebuild time when the day comes and consiering the cost of a core it was a pretty good deal. You can have dibs on it especially if you want it as an upgrade, I was only going to install once the trans went out.

 

You and Joe keep teasing me but you never make it out to Ca. Maybe you can pick up Inaccurate on the way and it can be a 4-some.

 

If you getting that kind of discount, i would rather buy from you LOL....pass on the love Matt haha

but in all seriousness, my tranny is doing fine @ 160K and i was thinking the same as you, keep it for an upgrade if anything goes wrong (which i doubt will)....but yeah if Rodney is coming out with something in the ECU which can control couple parameter of the tranny, then i will be all over this....

right now am just trying to get to 350-ish + loose some weight.....

 

I can't get that image out of my head now

 

^^^ all i can imagine as well is justn very very satisfied and happy after that, some like this:

 

I'm sure I can hook anyone up. I don't know how much it would be to ship a converter round trip, but it should still be pretty cheap. That would be for a higher stall stock converter that will hold up to whatever hp stock converters hold up to. For the additional strength needed for the turbo, it would probably add another $100.

 

many people were wondering if the converter would lock up on the highway with a higher then oem stall. No problems with a 3000 stall here. The car drives almost the same under normal driving conditions but under wot or semi hard acceleration, rpms jump higher getting you in the powerband faster.

These are like a set of Frankenstein mounts lol. I gave rodney 95a innovative bushings for all the mounts but he didnt put them in

So right now and in those vids I had a new 75a innovative front, old 85a innovative rear, 75a xlr8 side. The 75a front mount started doughing after a few dyno runs. By the time I left to go home it was shot

95a's are a must for the 6spd.

Like I said, it will be at least a month before the trans is pulled b.c I have to wait for the clutch to be built. First come first serve

After getting a call back from raybestos today, the tech told me that those gpx clutches are not performance oriented. They are used as oem replacements for a rebuild. No one makes performance clutches for the TL.

Line pressure increase could still work. Try replacing that regulator spring with one that has less tension and experiment with adjusting the solenoids.

If I had more time in florida with my car I would have definitely messed with the solenoids since its so easy to adjust.

However, after speaking with a friend of rodneys that works with highly modded hondas, he said if you swap that spring out for one with less tension, daily drive-ability goes out the door. Shifts would become very very hard/harsh under normal driving. But on the other hand, it would be perfect for the track.

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That's true, high line pressure makes shifts hard all the time.... on a stock converter. The higher the stall, the softer the part throttle shifts. A high stall will really hide harsh shifts. Not that it matters right now but I thought I would throw it out there as a last ditch effort to get you to save the auto trans. It's somewhat common on some domestics to have full line pressure all the time and a full manual valvebody but with a high stall, shift firmness still increases in proportion to throttle with a more aggressive ramp up.

 

Just out of curiosity Bert did you still have only TypeF fluid in there? or had you already converted to the new Mixture range that InACCurate has talked about for running optimal fluid mix for the 5at's

I only ask this cuz when i was running the lightweight typeF fluid I got the third gear slippage and did get VSA to come on once and vehicle would not let me go into SS mode and only way to get rid of VSA light was to shut car off and turn it back on!! So this is only reason I ask as I had similar VSA issue when running pure lightweight TypeF fluid in there.

 

@ BostonSilverTypeS

Wow. Did you swtich to the 65% Racing mixture that made the slipping stop happening?

Bert was using pure Amsoil Super Shift (Type F with normal viscosity)