Turbo Kit for Acura TL '04-'08
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
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From: Bakersfield
That's great, looking forward to the vids. If your torque ends up a little low, don't sweat it, it's somewhat normal with a higher stall converter. The torque is there, it just screws with the dyno sometimes.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 132
Likes: 11
From: Tampa, Florida
Libert, can't wait to see the video's.....
takin care of Business in
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From: Kansas City, MO
you gonna be pushing well into the 500's...possibly close to 600 ?
When do you think you'll be back? I might consider a meet and greet for something like this!!!
dyno was closed today so were going tomorrow. Got a much needed alignment.
Type s fsb feels real nice. Very very little body roll. Still running the progress rsb on soft so that needs to get changed to stiff
Welding the dump tube into the exhaust tomorrow and back to the dyno in the evening. Took plenty of vids from the dyno so far and will have more to come...including some pulls. But your all gonna have to wait until I get home so I can convert them and post them.
removed the rev limiter and ran up 7300 which is about 112mph. car pulls so hard up top and still makes power up there. were gonna run it out to 8000 tmrw and see if makes power up there. That should be good for 120 which is my goal for the track.
IHC, best run so far was 447whp / 377tq. Tq is low compared to the 6spd but thats to be expected.
Type s fsb feels real nice. Very very little body roll. Still running the progress rsb on soft so that needs to get changed to stiff
Welding the dump tube into the exhaust tomorrow and back to the dyno in the evening. Took plenty of vids from the dyno so far and will have more to come...including some pulls. But your all gonna have to wait until I get home so I can convert them and post them.
removed the rev limiter and ran up 7300 which is about 112mph. car pulls so hard up top and still makes power up there. were gonna run it out to 8000 tmrw and see if makes power up there. That should be good for 120 which is my goal for the track.
IHC, best run so far was 447whp / 377tq. Tq is low compared to the 6spd but thats to be expected.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
dyno was closed today so were going tomorrow. Got a much needed alignment.
Type s fsb feels real nice. Very very little body roll. Still running the progress rsb on soft so that needs to get changed to stiff
Welding the dump tube into the exhaust tomorrow and back to the dyno in the evening. Took plenty of vids from the dyno so far and will have more to come...including some pulls. But your all gonna have to wait until I get home so I can convert them and post them.
removed the rev limiter and ran up 7300 which is about 112mph. car pulls so hard up top and still makes power up there. were gonna run it out to 8000 tmrw and see if makes power up there. That should be good for 120 which is my goal for the track.
IHC, best run so far was 447whp / 377tq. Tq is low compared to the 6spd but thats to be expected.
Type s fsb feels real nice. Very very little body roll. Still running the progress rsb on soft so that needs to get changed to stiff
Welding the dump tube into the exhaust tomorrow and back to the dyno in the evening. Took plenty of vids from the dyno so far and will have more to come...including some pulls. But your all gonna have to wait until I get home so I can convert them and post them.
removed the rev limiter and ran up 7300 which is about 112mph. car pulls so hard up top and still makes power up there. were gonna run it out to 8000 tmrw and see if makes power up there. That should be good for 120 which is my goal for the track.
IHC, best run so far was 447whp / 377tq. Tq is low compared to the 6spd but thats to be expected.
Very nice! I think that 120mph goal is easily attainable with your setup, I would hate to run into you on the freeway. That would be nice to be able to go through the traps in 3rd, you can always make adjustments with tire diameter if it's important to you. I can remember going through the traps 1,000rpm over the factory redline on a stock bottom to avoid the shift to 4th. Different car, not really important but it's nice you have a ton of safe additional rpm to play with.
I bet that thing screams at 8k rpm. This is one video I'm looking forward to.
Edit: I hate trying to give advice because your setup is so awesome but after I made this post, in the back of my mind I couldn't get the valve-springs and 8,000rpm off my mind. Just checking that not only are they upgraded (I'm sure they are) but the builder took the additional spring pressure needed on the intake side of a boosted engine into account. I'm sure they did, please don't take this as an insult but I've always wanted to see your car perform to what I know it's capable of. For all I know, maybe it's only the exhaust valves that are an interference fit anyway and the worst thing you would encounter a temporary misfire.
Last edited by I hate cars; Jan 22, 2012 at 10:20 PM.
takin care of Business in
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From: Kansas City, MO
^^^ I think the EMS/Bisi springs and retainers can go upto 9800 rpm but am not sure how much the Jseries would made after 8K rpm....i would love to see that power curve keep going up but i doubt thats the case....
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 132
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From: Tampa, Florida
I'll be out of the loop for awhile but Rodney has my car till I return. The project will likely be started next month. Build 2 should be done by April/May timeframe.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,442
Likes: 482
From: Houston, Texas
Here is an update to the Hanging 2nd Gear (5AT) problem. Let me say upfront that I have no answers, just maybe less questions than previously.
The problem is not because of the turbo. It is not because of wheelspin in 2nd gear. It is not because the engine rev's up faster than the ecu is capable of upshifting.
That is my update. Like I said, I have no solid answer to what the underlying issue really is. But, at least with this update we can narrow the possibilities.
For reference, this topic was discussed in depth on pages 95 - 98 of this thread.
BELOW IS OPTIONAL READING
After I installed my custom 3" single exhaust, I have the Hanging 2nd problem is spades. Before adding the exhaust, I was like any other oem TL, and I would have the hanging only if spinning on wet roads in 2nd (once in a Blue Moon). But after installing the exhaust, it was a night-and-day difference. Even during my first short test drive after installing the exhaust, it began to hang the very first time that I put my foot into it. It went from "once in a Blue Moon" to a chronic condition.
Absolutely nothing changed but the exhaust system. As some folks may know, I made three diet mods lately. But the exhaust was the first mod. I had not done the other two mods yet when the chronic hanging started. And, I touched nothing else on my car while doing the exhaust. So, I can say unequivocally that it was the exhaust alone (not the coilovers or shaved tires) that caused me to start having this chronic hanging issue.
Below is what I have discovered after living with the problem for a few weeks thus far.
The hanging has happened when I know for damn sure that I have not experienced any wheelspin what so ever (in either 1st or 2nd). See next paragraph.
The hanging has happened when I was only at 1/4 throttle when accelerating from a dead stop. Happened another time when I was at 1/2 throttle and I got a downshift into 2nd. This is why I can say that the problem is not because the engine rev's up faster than the ecu is capable of upshifting nor due to spinning.
With the limited facts that we had regarding the problem in the past, I logically made the wrong theory that it was related to the 5AT being turbocharged. Or, I thought that it was because the turbo would spin the tires in 2nd gear.
With my new discoveries regarding this problem, I obviously now have a new theory. Like IHC said (in the quote above), I now think the hanging occurs when the RPM's rise more than it should based on the given throttle (ATP). That is, for a given ATP, there should be a given rate of RPM climb. It the RPM climb too much for a given ATP, the ecu thinks that perhaps the DBW is malfunctioning. And as we can imagine, Honda probably has many safety nets programmed into the DBW logic for obvious reasons.
In the OEM ECU/PCM, there appears to be a predefined relationship between "Rate of RPM Increase" versus "Absolute Throttle Position". Too much rpm climb given a certain throttle position means a possible DBW malfunction (thus producing the related failsafe to not upshift to prevent a run-away condition). This is my new theory.
Before my 3" exhaust, I must had been on the borderline of having this problem. After the 3" exhaust (and the associated 24 Lbs weight reduction), I think that I now have fallen on the outside of the ecu programming for what the ecu considers to be safe.
My lightweight car has the hanging because I have modded my car to accelerate hard for the smallest throttle position possible. And, I believe that the 3" exhaust has bumped my power thru-out the rpms and even under partial throttle. So, this is how I explain why I developed the problem after installing the exhaust. My RPM now climbs too quickly per the given throttle position.
For Bert's turbo, I think the problem happens when the engine starts to see boost. And under boost, the RPM will climb too quickly per the given throttle position.
The problem is not because of the turbo. It is not because of wheelspin in 2nd gear. It is not because the engine rev's up faster than the ecu is capable of upshifting.
That is my update. Like I said, I have no solid answer to what the underlying issue really is. But, at least with this update we can narrow the possibilities.
For reference, this topic was discussed in depth on pages 95 - 98 of this thread.
BELOW IS OPTIONAL READING
After I installed my custom 3" single exhaust, I have the Hanging 2nd problem is spades. Before adding the exhaust, I was like any other oem TL, and I would have the hanging only if spinning on wet roads in 2nd (once in a Blue Moon). But after installing the exhaust, it was a night-and-day difference. Even during my first short test drive after installing the exhaust, it began to hang the very first time that I put my foot into it. It went from "once in a Blue Moon" to a chronic condition.
Absolutely nothing changed but the exhaust system. As some folks may know, I made three diet mods lately. But the exhaust was the first mod. I had not done the other two mods yet when the chronic hanging started. And, I touched nothing else on my car while doing the exhaust. So, I can say unequivocally that it was the exhaust alone (not the coilovers or shaved tires) that caused me to start having this chronic hanging issue.
Below is what I have discovered after living with the problem for a few weeks thus far.
The hanging has happened when I know for damn sure that I have not experienced any wheelspin what so ever (in either 1st or 2nd). See next paragraph.
The hanging has happened when I was only at 1/4 throttle when accelerating from a dead stop. Happened another time when I was at 1/2 throttle and I got a downshift into 2nd. This is why I can say that the problem is not because the engine rev's up faster than the ecu is capable of upshifting nor due to spinning.
Doubt this is the cause. Mine goes thru 2nd gear as quickly as Bert’s. Mine has not ever bounced off of the rev limiter on a normal basis. I have only had that “once in a blue moon” episode that most 5AT experience.
I wot from stop lights on wet roads often. Still, I have never had mine bounce off of the limiter.
I doubt that Bert had this issue before the turbo. From a logical aspect, it seems to be something tied to being turbo’ed however.
I wot from stop lights on wet roads often. Still, I have never had mine bounce off of the limiter.
I doubt that Bert had this issue before the turbo. From a logical aspect, it seems to be something tied to being turbo’ed however.
With my new discoveries regarding this problem, I obviously now have a new theory. Like IHC said (in the quote above), I now think the hanging occurs when the RPM's rise more than it should based on the given throttle (ATP). That is, for a given ATP, there should be a given rate of RPM climb. It the RPM climb too much for a given ATP, the ecu thinks that perhaps the DBW is malfunctioning. And as we can imagine, Honda probably has many safety nets programmed into the DBW logic for obvious reasons.
In the OEM ECU/PCM, there appears to be a predefined relationship between "Rate of RPM Increase" versus "Absolute Throttle Position". Too much rpm climb given a certain throttle position means a possible DBW malfunction (thus producing the related failsafe to not upshift to prevent a run-away condition). This is my new theory.
Before my 3" exhaust, I must had been on the borderline of having this problem. After the 3" exhaust (and the associated 24 Lbs weight reduction), I think that I now have fallen on the outside of the ecu programming for what the ecu considers to be safe.
My lightweight car has the hanging because I have modded my car to accelerate hard for the smallest throttle position possible. And, I believe that the 3" exhaust has bumped my power thru-out the rpms and even under partial throttle. So, this is how I explain why I developed the problem after installing the exhaust. My RPM now climbs too quickly per the given throttle position.
For Bert's turbo, I think the problem happens when the engine starts to see boost. And under boost, the RPM will climb too quickly per the given throttle position.
takin care of Business in
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From: Kansas City, MO
^^^ Tim, your reasoning sounds very very convincing....here are my experiences (both on wet road)....
after i got my PCD's, pnp-ed manifold + lower runners + MDX spacer, took her for a test run.....i was spinning 2nd all the way on my test run....and it wudnt shift into 3rd as quickly as i wanted it to....in the SS mode however this was not an issue....
couple months later, i got my true duals and bored TB....this issue returned....
but as i mentioned in SS mode this is a non issue and hence am in SS mode 100% of the time...
after i got my PCD's, pnp-ed manifold + lower runners + MDX spacer, took her for a test run.....i was spinning 2nd all the way on my test run....and it wudnt shift into 3rd as quickly as i wanted it to....in the SS mode however this was not an issue....
couple months later, i got my true duals and bored TB....this issue returned....
but as i mentioned in SS mode this is a non issue and hence am in SS mode 100% of the time...
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 174
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Good info.
I am thinking of swapping this motor into a lighter chassis and am worried about this issue since I would like to keep the auto transmission.
I know of one guy that has posted the problem, but I would think anyone that has put this motor into a civic or lighter car with the auto would have the shift problem if your theory on it reving faster than the amount of throttle should allow is true.
Are people with the auto in civic's finding that this is the case I wonder?
JR
I am thinking of swapping this motor into a lighter chassis and am worried about this issue since I would like to keep the auto transmission.
I know of one guy that has posted the problem, but I would think anyone that has put this motor into a civic or lighter car with the auto would have the shift problem if your theory on it reving faster than the amount of throttle should allow is true.
Are people with the auto in civic's finding that this is the case I wonder?
JR
Former Sponsor
Joined: Jan 2012
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Well so far so good almost at 450whp tonite Dyno we will be heading to 500+whp wish us all luck ,and with a little luck I might have the first BASE TURBO TL VS TYPES AUTO TURBO stay tuned...did have a few delays but for most part Libert is a patient guy and he can see for himself sometimes not everything goes as schedule but in the end we will complete it all ....
www.youtube.com/watch?v=guTDiyKgXzY
having a new set of problems now but this one is boggling my mind. vsa off, 3rd gear pull....this causes the vsa light to come on. Im talking about the letters "VSA" come up on the dash. only way to get rid of it is to turn the car off. when the vsa letters come up, i cannot downshift into 3rd from 4th if im going above 70mph. at 69mph and slower, i can downshift from 3rd to 4th. when i try to downshift above 70mph, the number 3 blinks a few times and goes back to 4th. Whats that about? Anyone have any idea why the vsa letters would come on in the first place? Ive never had those letters pop up before
I still have a lot scenarios to try out in the different gears to see how every thing reacts. it seems like when the vsa letters are on, 4th gear wot runs bog all over the place.
there might be some bad news regarding the trans but ill get into that tommorow.
long ass day
having a new set of problems now but this one is boggling my mind. vsa off, 3rd gear pull....this causes the vsa light to come on. Im talking about the letters "VSA" come up on the dash. only way to get rid of it is to turn the car off. when the vsa letters come up, i cannot downshift into 3rd from 4th if im going above 70mph. at 69mph and slower, i can downshift from 3rd to 4th. when i try to downshift above 70mph, the number 3 blinks a few times and goes back to 4th. Whats that about? Anyone have any idea why the vsa letters would come on in the first place? Ive never had those letters pop up before
I still have a lot scenarios to try out in the different gears to see how every thing reacts. it seems like when the vsa letters are on, 4th gear wot runs bog all over the place.
there might be some bad news regarding the trans but ill get into that tommorow.
long ass day
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,442
Likes: 482
From: Houston, Texas
Strange. You have just the "VSA" (item "B" in diagram) by itself with no other indicators? The manual does not show that as an option. According to the manual, it would be the "VSA" light in conjunction with another indicator light (for example, VSA + ABS lights).
I am still digging.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,442
Likes: 482
From: Houston, Texas
In the pic above, this gives a general idea of the type of things that could cause the lights to come on. Below is the troubleshooting steps to follow if the VSA light stays on when the ignition key is turned on (not quite the same situation as yours although).
appreciate those scans Inaccurate
I have item B and C that light up. But, during these runs, we always turn the vsa off anyway so item C is already illuminated. After the 3rd gear pull, item B shows up.
Ill do some pulls today with the vsa on the whole time to see if both B and C light up.
I have item B and C that light up. But, during these runs, we always turn the vsa off anyway so item C is already illuminated. After the 3rd gear pull, item B shows up.
Ill do some pulls today with the vsa on the whole time to see if both B and C light up.
takin care of Business in
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From: Kansas City, MO
^^^ Tim, i think you missed out on the fact that Bert had his VSA OFF....
because of that his B (VSA Indicator) and C (VSA Activation Indicator) were ON....and from the diagram you posted, it means VSA FUNCTION IS NO WORKING....
edit: post was meant for Inaccurate.....
because of that his B (VSA Indicator) and C (VSA Activation Indicator) were ON....and from the diagram you posted, it means VSA FUNCTION IS NO WORKING....
edit: post was meant for Inaccurate.....
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,442
Likes: 482
From: Houston, Texas
Bert,
Do you still have your special Honda DTC reader? It would be helpful to check your codes. But, I think that a normal aftermarket scanner is not able to read the VSA codes. But that special unit that you had probably could read your VSA DTC.
Do you still have your special Honda DTC reader? It would be helpful to check your codes. But, I think that a normal aftermarket scanner is not able to read the VSA codes. But that special unit that you had probably could read your VSA DTC.
It seems like we have found the limit of the stock tranny. During the first dyno day, best run was 454whp and 377wtq. This was using a 4lb wastegate spring. Unfortunately the upper rpm range with this spring was too lean so we needed to go with a bigger spring.
We swapped in a 10lb spring and started to make some pulls. This bigger spring shifted the whole tq curve down in the power band. Previously peek tq was around 5k. Now, with the bigger spring, peak tq was closer to 3k-3.5k. Bigger spring = much quicker boost. After many 3rd gear pulls, we ran out 4th gear and had 16psi by 3.5-4k. Too much tq at a low rpm for the trans.
After looking at the graph with the new spring and lower tq curve, we noticed the hp was starting to slowly fall off in the upper rpm range. Not a sudden drop in hp up top, but a slow decline. NOT supposed to happen
We think that since the tq curve dropped so dramatically to a lower rpm,the trans and tq converter could not handle the tq
Its hard to tell now but I think the trans is slipping in 3rd gear on the street. Rodney said he heard the trans slipping and trying to stay in 3rd when I went past him during a 3rd gear wot run.
I was seeing trans temps of 225 degrees during a 4th gear pull. Ive never seen temps go above 210.
Trans fluid is still bright red and does not smell burnt. Doing a 1x3 drain and fill today to see if there is any material on the drain bolt. However there may not be any material on the drain plug bc the wear material may have been caught by the inline magnefine trans filter
So if there happens to be damage to the 3rd gear clutches and what rodney had heard was indeed slippage, should the trans be sliipping everytime in the 3rd under wot? Or will it happen occasionally and just get worse and worse?
We swapped in a 10lb spring and started to make some pulls. This bigger spring shifted the whole tq curve down in the power band. Previously peek tq was around 5k. Now, with the bigger spring, peak tq was closer to 3k-3.5k. Bigger spring = much quicker boost. After many 3rd gear pulls, we ran out 4th gear and had 16psi by 3.5-4k. Too much tq at a low rpm for the trans.
After looking at the graph with the new spring and lower tq curve, we noticed the hp was starting to slowly fall off in the upper rpm range. Not a sudden drop in hp up top, but a slow decline. NOT supposed to happen
We think that since the tq curve dropped so dramatically to a lower rpm,the trans and tq converter could not handle the tq
Its hard to tell now but I think the trans is slipping in 3rd gear on the street. Rodney said he heard the trans slipping and trying to stay in 3rd when I went past him during a 3rd gear wot run.
I was seeing trans temps of 225 degrees during a 4th gear pull. Ive never seen temps go above 210.
Trans fluid is still bright red and does not smell burnt. Doing a 1x3 drain and fill today to see if there is any material on the drain bolt. However there may not be any material on the drain plug bc the wear material may have been caught by the inline magnefine trans filter
So if there happens to be damage to the 3rd gear clutches and what rodney had heard was indeed slippage, should the trans be sliipping everytime in the 3rd under wot? Or will it happen occasionally and just get worse and worse?
Yea im going to scan for trans codes in a little bit to see what comes up. I have NOT had the blinking green D light of death yet.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,442
Likes: 482
From: Houston, Texas
If it is slipping with wot now, it will slip again when you wot. After a few times of that, it will just take 3/4 throttle to cause slippage. A few times of that, it will then slip with just half throttle. and so forth, until the trans just stays in Limp-home mode..
Im almost positive Im switching to a 6spd at this point
Once slipping starts, it will get worse REAL fast. Unlike a clutch for a manual trans, the clutches in the auto are very thin and delicate. The auto clutches can not tolerate the slightest amount of abuse. The auto clutches will not "recover" like a manual clutch. This is why we must take preventative measures (which we know that you did, just saying for other readers) with the auto trans.
If it is slipping with wot now, it will slip again when you wot. After a few times of that, it will just take 3/4 throttle to cause slippage. A few times of that, it will then slip with just half throttle. and so forth, until the trans just stays in Limp-home mode..
If it is slipping with wot now, it will slip again when you wot. After a few times of that, it will just take 3/4 throttle to cause slippage. A few times of that, it will then slip with just half throttle. and so forth, until the trans just stays in Limp-home mode..
Looks like we have slippage. Faurk !
I was planning on leaving tonight. Car drives fine honestly. I just wont be boosting all the way home. No big deal. Ill beat on it once I get home. I could stay here another week If i needed to or if a 6spd tranny fell in my lap lol
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
It seems like we have found the limit of the stock tranny. During the first dyno day, best run was 454whp and 377wtq. This was using a 4lb wastegate spring. Unfortunately the upper rpm range with this spring was too lean so we needed to go with a bigger spring.
We swapped in a 10lb spring and started to make some pulls. This bigger spring shifted the whole tq curve down in the power band. Previously peek tq was around 5k. Now, with the bigger spring, peak tq was closer to 3k-3.5k. Bigger spring = much quicker boost. After many 3rd gear pulls, we ran out 4th gear and had 16psi by 3.5-4k. Too much tq at a low rpm for the trans.
After looking at the graph with the new spring and lower tq curve, we noticed the hp was starting to slowly fall off in the upper rpm range. Not a sudden drop in hp up top, but a slow decline. NOT supposed to happen
We think that since the tq curve dropped so dramatically to a lower rpm,the trans and tq converter could not handle the tq
Its hard to tell now but I think the trans is slipping in 3rd gear on the street. Rodney said he heard the trans slipping and trying to stay in 3rd when I went past him during a 3rd gear wot run.
I was seeing trans temps of 225 degrees during a 4th gear pull. Ive never seen temps go above 210.
Trans fluid is still bright red and does not smell burnt. Doing a 1x3 drain and fill today to see if there is any material on the drain bolt. However there may not be any material on the drain plug bc the wear material may have been caught by the inline magnefine trans filter
So if there happens to be damage to the 3rd gear clutches and what rodney had heard was indeed slippage, should the trans be sliipping everytime in the 3rd under wot? Or will it happen occasionally and just get worse and worse?
We swapped in a 10lb spring and started to make some pulls. This bigger spring shifted the whole tq curve down in the power band. Previously peek tq was around 5k. Now, with the bigger spring, peak tq was closer to 3k-3.5k. Bigger spring = much quicker boost. After many 3rd gear pulls, we ran out 4th gear and had 16psi by 3.5-4k. Too much tq at a low rpm for the trans.
After looking at the graph with the new spring and lower tq curve, we noticed the hp was starting to slowly fall off in the upper rpm range. Not a sudden drop in hp up top, but a slow decline. NOT supposed to happen
We think that since the tq curve dropped so dramatically to a lower rpm,the trans and tq converter could not handle the tq
Its hard to tell now but I think the trans is slipping in 3rd gear on the street. Rodney said he heard the trans slipping and trying to stay in 3rd when I went past him during a 3rd gear wot run.
I was seeing trans temps of 225 degrees during a 4th gear pull. Ive never seen temps go above 210.
Trans fluid is still bright red and does not smell burnt. Doing a 1x3 drain and fill today to see if there is any material on the drain bolt. However there may not be any material on the drain plug bc the wear material may have been caught by the inline magnefine trans filter
So if there happens to be damage to the 3rd gear clutches and what rodney had heard was indeed slippage, should the trans be sliipping everytime in the 3rd under wot? Or will it happen occasionally and just get worse and worse?
I would not worry about your temps, a high stall converter is going to raise the temps. 225 is in the completely normal range if you're running it hard and into the higher gears. Back in the old days, with two giant coolers I remember bringing it up on boost waiting for the green and if the other guy was a rookie (or smart and purposely screwing me) and took a long time to stage I would watch my temps creep past 280 degrees. A good syn will handle it no problem.
As Inaccurate said, it will continue to slip and it will go completely out very quickly.
At this point you need to raise main line pressure to deal with the power. I hate to say it but you need to manage boost so that it ramps in in proportion with throttle and later in the rpm range. I'm not sure how the spool is on the TL but with that turbo I imagine it has the capability to make a lot of boost even at low throttle which can be bad on the trans.
I believe Inacc has the schematics of the trans. I don't know where to go with it because I've never seen the electical but it has to have some sort or linear or PWM solenoid for main line pressure. I'm sure there's a way to electrically manipulate the signal so it gives full line pressure sooner and/or maybe more line pressure at full throttle as well. If the trans can ramp the line pressure up sooner, you can ramp the boost up sooner as well without slippage.
Another thing, make sure the Tl does not have some sort of strategy to lock the TCC at full throttle. It's doubtful the clutch will hold up under this kind of power.
Last edited by I hate cars; Jan 24, 2012 at 11:38 AM.
I also have a track TL with a manual set up, but I haven't decided on selling it yet. I plan on getting another TL soon which will be manual and that trans will be for sale as well.
Also, that VSA problem when I had my custom set up was the APP sensor..
takin care of Business in
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^^^ APP sensor....Thanks
Bert, I have seen couple thread on the forum throwing VSA coz the APP sensor was going crazy....look into it before going thro the 6SP swap...great point by Bruce....
Bert, I have seen couple thread on the forum throwing VSA coz the APP sensor was going crazy....look into it before going thro the 6SP swap...great point by Bruce....
Good info IHC....we did adjust boost to allow a gradual increase in tq and hp. BUT this was after we changed the spring and had a few runs were the tq came on real early. At this point I think the damage was already done. Boost comes on sooooo smooth and the power is wicked.
We have been talking about line pressure since I had the turbo. I dont have the knowledge to undertake an experiment to raise the line pressure though. otherwise I would have tried it already.
"Another thing, make sure the Tl does not have some sort of strategy to lock the TCC at full throttle. It's doubtful the clutch will hold up under this kind of power." ---How would i even check that?
I swapped in a new app sensor when the turbo was first installed. Maybe it went bad again?? Ill check into that.
Im searching threads for a list of parts needed for the COMPLETE swap. Ill be in touch.
We have been talking about line pressure since I had the turbo. I dont have the knowledge to undertake an experiment to raise the line pressure though. otherwise I would have tried it already.
"Another thing, make sure the Tl does not have some sort of strategy to lock the TCC at full throttle. It's doubtful the clutch will hold up under this kind of power." ---How would i even check that?
I do. I have a full set up, but when the trans was pulled from the car one of the mounting brackets was broke. Its at pauls house and can be shipped ASAP. The complete set up goes for around $2400 he said (clutch/pedals/flywheel/shifter/computer/trans/etc.) The case is around $300 via ACURA, make me an offer and its yours. I am sure Rodney can replace the casing for the trans.
I also have a track TL with a manual set up, but I haven't decided on selling it yet. I plan on getting another TL soon which will be manual and that trans will be for sale as well.
Also, that VSA problem when I had my custom set up was the APP sensor..
I also have a track TL with a manual set up, but I haven't decided on selling it yet. I plan on getting another TL soon which will be manual and that trans will be for sale as well.
Also, that VSA problem when I had my custom set up was the APP sensor..
Im searching threads for a list of parts needed for the COMPLETE swap. Ill be in touch.
Good info IHC....we did adjust boost to allow a gradual increase in tq and hp. BUT this was after we changed the spring and had a few runs were the tq came on real early. At this point I think the damage was already done. Boost comes on sooooo smooth and the power is wicked.
We have been talking about line pressure since I had the turbo. I dont have the knowledge to undertake an experiment to raise the line pressure though. otherwise I would have tried it already.
"Another thing, make sure the Tl does not have some sort of strategy to lock the TCC at full throttle. It's doubtful the clutch will hold up under this kind of power." ---How would i even check that?
I swapped in a new app sensor when the turbo was first installed. Maybe it went bad again?? Ill check into that.
Im searching threads for a list of parts needed for the COMPLETE swap. Ill be in touch.
We have been talking about line pressure since I had the turbo. I dont have the knowledge to undertake an experiment to raise the line pressure though. otherwise I would have tried it already.
"Another thing, make sure the Tl does not have some sort of strategy to lock the TCC at full throttle. It's doubtful the clutch will hold up under this kind of power." ---How would i even check that?
I swapped in a new app sensor when the turbo was first installed. Maybe it went bad again?? Ill check into that.
Im searching threads for a list of parts needed for the COMPLETE swap. Ill be in touch.
Sorry if I didn't answer it, but my set up is the complete swap pulled from a car. Just need a new case.