Installing PCDs+Jpipe tomorrow, torque specs?

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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 07:01 PM
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AbyssPearlTL's Avatar
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Installing PCDs+Jpipe tomorrow, torque specs?

Does any one have the torque specs for the J-pipe and PCD install?
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 07:52 PM
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Hmm good question, I just tightened it to where it seemed sufficient.
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 01:26 AM
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FUCKIGN TIGHT.


you dont want the exhaust gasses leaking.
fwiw, it'll be hard to get the bolts off, thats how tight it should be, when tightening
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 03:22 AM
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 08:46 AM
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Inaccurate! You are the man! Thank you so much!
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 09:04 AM
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Good luck! Don't forget to post a video after it is done!

Are you install both RV6 J-pipe and PCD (well nvm on the PCD)?
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 09:20 AM
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<<<jealous...one day I will get mine...are you auto or manual...interested to here your input and thoughts after install....GL
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 09:45 AM
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From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Originally Posted by justnspace
FUCKIGN TIGHT.


you dont want the exhaust gasses leaking.
fwiw, it'll be hard to get the bolts off, thats how tight it should be, when tightening
Too tight can be as bad as not tight enough. Depends on the parts/application.

Reason the exhaust area nuts/bolts are so damn tough is 1.) heat cycling and 2.) exposure to road grime, salt, etc.

But that doesn't mean that starting out "too tight" is a good idea. Might crack something. Like this guy: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/changing-tranny-filter%3Dbroken-transmission-fml-808507/

Last edited by Bearcat94; Dec 11, 2011 at 12:00 PM.
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 04:34 PM
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What's the correct torque down sequence when throwing on PCD's. You get all nuts and bolts loosely in place and then should you start tightening down to spec from the catback to the block or block to catback?
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 04:48 PM
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installed guys! I got the resonator welded in yesterday (I just added it to my exhaust) and I got inspected before this whole process began, so I'm good for 2 more years

The install really wasn't that bad. We had to cut the bolts for the third cat to exhaust area flange. Too rusted. Other than that, exactly as it has been told. Passenger radiator fan out, reservoir moved, strut tower brace off.

As for driving - I love it. I love the smell of no cats, I love the power increase (very noticeable). The resonator muted the rasp down very well, you can hear where it would pop in around 3.5k, but it just sounds like a hiss rather than a weedwacker.

Overall - totally worth it!
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 11:38 PM
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^^nice..any sound clips? What exhaust do you have?
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 02:11 AM
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what resonator did u add bro and bump for updates lol
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 07:41 AM
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^ should have PM'd him. lol.
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by bouncer07
^ should have PM'd him. lol.
lol sure will and just trying to bump up the thread since there was no update im interested in hearing some sound clips.
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 12:25 PM
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Same here lol
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Old Sep 22, 2015 | 09:50 PM
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Total of nine 10mm bolt connected to the precat and the 3rd cat correct?

Is this possible to take off with torque wrench... ?

40lb-ft seems like a impossible job with basic hand tool . . .
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 09:19 AM
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You shouldn't use a torque wrench to loosen bolts as it can mess up the calibration.

I believe autozone will loan a breaker bar for free or if you have a harbor freight near buy pick up their extendable 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar to loosen the bolts for cheap. Don't forget to spray pb blaster on bolts first in aiding to loosen them. When it comes to exhaust bolts pb blaster is your best friend.
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 05:10 AM
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isn't going to be the same thing, since you're applying same force to loosen the bolts ?
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 02:58 PM
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I'd do what TommyPenguin said. Stick with a breaker bar to loosen, torque wrench to tighten to specs.
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