Hi everyone, my front passenger side tire seems to be a little out because of which when the steering wheel is straight, the car goes to the right. I got the alignment done and although everything is in the green portion, I don't know why the car still goes to the right. Here are my specs.

Front
Caster 3.2 to 3.3.
Camber -0.1 to -0.9
Toe 0.0 to 0.0
Rear
Camber -1.4 to -1.4
Toe 0.05 to 0.0

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

even after alignment it still pulls?

are all your tires the same w/ same/similar amount of thread on both sides?
tire pressure all around?

 

yes just got the alignment done and tires are brand new thats why im concerned. You can actually see the front passenger side tire a little bit out when the steering wheel is in the middle.

 

and if I was to get the camber kit, should I make -0.1 to -0.9 or -0.9 to -0.1 ? I heard the camber should be -1.0 for better handling

 

From what I read, you’re stating that when the steering wheel is in the straight ahead position, the car drifts right? The steering wheel has nothing to do with the front end geometry, so if you have the car going straight and remove your hands from the wheel, the car will remain straight, but the steering wheel is cocked, take it back to the shop and have them adjust the steering wheel, They will need to put it back up on the rack to make certain that when adjusting the tie rod ends the toe doesn’t change.

I’d get another alignment shop if that’s the way they deliver the car to the customer.

 

the specs you should be given should be for each wheel, not just front and back, and should list a before and after value for camber, caster and toe.

If you are still pulling after the alignment, you need to take it back and make them do it again.

Also, have you ever been in an accident?

 

appreciate the responses. When the steering wheel is dead straight in the center, the front driver side tire is straight but the front passenger side is very slightly pointing out, that I would assume is what making the car go right since one tire wants to go to the right but since everything is in specs i'm wondering why is it doing so. I've never been in accident, only when I changed my stock wheels to Ronjon 19' this started happening. Initially I thought they were the front tires so I changed them and put brand new tires and it is still doing the same thing. The Specs I gave are the AFTER specs. The BEFORE Specs were (and thats all they gave me) :
Front
Caster 3.3 to 3.3.
Camber -0.1 to -0.9
Toe 0.20 to 0.15
Rear
Camber -1.4 to -1.4
Toe 0.05 to 0.0

I'm thinking it is my front camber that is causing the problem? since -0.1 on one side and -0.9 on the other.

 

ONCE AGAIN, does the car track straight on the highway, driving straight, flat road, remove hands from the steering wheel, wheel cocked but where does the car go, straight?

 

No, the car goes to the right when the steering wheel is straight on the highway, driving straight, flat road, n' letting go of the steering wheel. I have to pull the steering wheel slightly (very slightly) to the left side to keep it going straight. Hope I answered your question correctly this time.

 

yea if those are your camber specs after the adjustment than yea that will def cause a pull condition. .8 difference one side to other is too much imo

 

Never looked at the specs but just read the post.
Just curious as to what were the before readings?

 

BEFORE
Front
Caster 3.3 to 3.3.
Camber -0.1 to -0.9
Toe 0.20 to 0.15
Rear
Camber -1.4 to -1.4
Toe 0.05 to 0.0

AFTER
Front
Caster 3.2 to 3.3.
Camber -0.1 to -0.9
Toe 0.0 to 0.0
Rear
Camber -1.4 to -1.4
Toe 0.05 to 0.0

So my question is do I need to install the camber kit on the driver side to match the passenger side or visa versa? I'm not buying both as its a waste of money for me especially on the stock suspension.

 

LOL your posting the wrong specs... the readings that say "__ to __" means it should be within that range. next to that should be the actual number that your car is. look at my chart as an example

 

^ I'm assuming he's posting the left and right side specs, because if it were the spec range, the after numbers wouldn't have changed. Very unusual to find the camber out that far left to right, on a stock, no suspension damaged vehicle. Having said that, I'd purchase units for both sides, either just the adjustable ball joints or the control arms with the ball joints, as this way you're assured of getting the optimal setting on both sides and I certainly wouldn't consider it a waste of money.

Assume the car is no longer convered by any warranty?

 

yes its not covered under warranty and they are left and right specs. -0.1 being the left and -0.9 being the right. I'm surprised too, maybe a curb damage would've done that?

 

I ordered one front Ingall Camber kit already, should I install it on the left to make it -0.9 or to the right to make it -0.1 ?

 

As each setting is at the extreme, I'd do the -0.9 to get some "tilt"into the tire.