I just bought my 2010 Acura TL and tried to hard wire my radar detector like I had in my MDX, but for some reason it wouldn't shut off. It just stayed on, no matter what fuse I hooked it too. Any ideas? I can't possibly it's safe to leave this on at all times? Thanks!

 

I plan on getting my V1 hard-wired as well by my stereo shop. In the past cars I've owned, the shop always removes the trim and taps into the power wire connected to the cigarette lighter. That source only comes on when the ignition comes on. If you tap power to that wire, your radar detector should only come on when the car's ignition comes on.

 

I used an invisicord that taps into the back of the rearview mirror, the power cable used for auto dimming. Takes all of about 30 seconds to install. No splicing into anything and works perfect.

 

^+1 but I made my own cable with a short piece of flat telco cable and a RJ jack that goes into my Bel detector. Cost me nothing.

 

For those with a V1, Valentine sells a hard-wire kit that makes installation very easy.

 

http://stealthcords.com/shop/home.php

 

I wonder how many folks even thought about the lack of a fuse in their Stealth Cord or Invisi-cord.....

I don't know what the TL's mirror circuit fuse is rated at, but my guess it's at least 10 amps. Your detector needs one a lot smaller.

All the Escort cables are fused.

John Davies
Spokane WA

 

Installed mine almost a year ago. No problems with my Escort.

 

Kudos to both you guys for this great suggestion! How are you making the "connection" to the plug that goes into the back of the RVM? I see that it unplugs easily enough, but what are you doing to keep the connection "solid" to your added wires? Are you just shoving your RD wires in alongside those already in the RVM connector and hoping they stay in place or are you soldering? or? (need some more details here please)

The RJ-11 plug is the same trick I used with my Escort when I hardwired it into the courtesy lamp in the headliner of my old truck, but the truck is an old '97 Dodge, not a brand-new $40k ride. I'd sure like to do this mod but don't want to wind up butchering something (or accidentally dropping a blob of hot solder onto that beautiful dashboard. My better half would shoot me and I'd probably load the gun for her.

I really doubt that the RVM is on a 10-amp circuit. More than likely only 1 or 2 amps at most. That #22 or #24 wire would melt with 10 amps running through it. It would also be proactively helpful to know which fuse and where the fuse is so as to have a spare & perhaps up-size it to the next std. value. In other words, like I said above, more details please.

 

Not sure what all the fuss is about. I had my V1 hardwired for a whopping 40 bucks. I wouldn't even attempt trying to dismantle parts to hopefully find the correct wire without screwing something else up. Spend a few dollars and have a professional do the job. IMHO.

 

The invisicord I bought has connectors that push right in next to the existing wire. I have had no issues with the wires coming out. I did end up using some zip ties just to give it a cleaner look and now the cable doesn't move at all.

 

The site I bought my cord off of someone had already installed into a 2010 TL so they said which wire was which. Also considering is a whole 3 wires, it's not really hard to figure out. There is no dismantling of any parts, you unplug the power from the rear view mirror and then plug it back in. In the past I have spent about $40 to have mine hard wired, but why bother when it can be done in seconds yourself?

 

30 years ago I wouldn't have hesitated, having previously done discreet circuit board level repair on Motorola pagers and Handi-Talkies. Today these 64-yr old eyes don't see as well up close and the hands aren't as steady. Identifying the "hot" and "ground" leads when there's only 3 wires to begin with is simple enough and I have a spool of of the "silver-satin" telephone cord, only better, as the outer jacket on mine is black. I also have a good supply of RJ11 connectors and the crimping tool to apply them and some miniature zip-ties. Hence I'm 90% there - I'll examine this in more detail this weekend. Y'all have inspired me!

 

This was a piece of cake, even for my 64-yr old eyes and arthritic hands. Start to finish about 45 minutes and 30 min. of that was spent looking for things I had a few weeks (or was it years) ago

I tied-in my Escort R/D to the back of the mirror plug. There's 3 wires back there and the cable unplugs from the mirror. The 12v "hot" wire is the one on the passenger side of the connector. The ground is the center wire. I used about 8~10" of black telephone cord (the flat stuff that usually only comes in a silver-satin color).

I -did- use my soldering iron to "tin" the leads and make them stiffer. They really do just shove-in and bind against the existing wires quite nicely. I used a couple miniature (also black) ty-wraps (not twist-ties, aka bread ties) to provide good strain relief & thus prevent my added wires from being pulled out.

The radar detector itself is attached to the windshield with the std. suction cup mount that the Escort (Solo 2) comes with. It's mounted high enough as to be out of sight from both the front and the rear (hidden by the mirror) - ergo the driver really can't see it either, but you shouldn't need to as all I'm interested in is the audio alert tone.

Looks good and easily un-done if the need ever arises.

 

hey guys does anyone have any suggestions for me where to mount the radar(V1)? I live in nyc and park my car on the street. I have tints on my windows and depending where i mount it can be visible. In my old tsx i had a hardwire to my passenger visor and mounted when i needed it. now i want to mount it permanently so i wont bother with taking it on and off. Does any one have any ideas where they mount and if yours is mounted with little visibility i would love to see a pic.

 

Up next to the rear view mirror, behind the tinting and hard wire to the powered mirror as described above

 

Cap'n, looks like you figured it out. Sorry I haven't checked the forums for a while. Should have PM'ed me.

Your method will work just fine. For me, I soldered and then crimped a pin on each lead. They are the (male) pins that they use for DB-25 connectors. I have a whole row of them when I used to build my own connectors. But the idea is the same, just jam them in.

 

I can 't seen to get 12V on any combo of the mirror connector now. It's driving me nuts. I had a short stealthcord wire but wanted to move the detector further away from the mirror... I don't know if I shorted out the wires or what but I can't get power there now. The green power light still comes on for the mirror... strange.

 

I tried that and could not get it either. I ended up using one of those add a circuit fuse holders and tapping into the accessory fuse and adding the radar smartcord to a empty switch on my dash.

 

Did you ever figure this out?

I have a 2011 TL and just picked up a Escort 9500ix. I was planning on purchasing the same wire from StealthCord.com.