StopTech Slotted Brake Rotors installed!!! (and pads properly bedded)
10-12-2015, 09:30 AM
#1
StopTech Slotted Brake Rotors installed!!! (and pads properly bedded)
(background = I ordered Stoptech Slotted Rotors and Posi Quiet pads to replace my 19k worn out OEM brakes)
Ahhhh... at long last, my brake upgrade/installation is complete! I would have posted this Saturday after it was done, but alas, I was exhausted!
I've been enjoying the fruits of my labor for the last couple days. All I can say is W. O. W. I've been living with $hitty brakes for the past almost 2 years. You don't realize how bad your brakes were until you get new/good ones. The braking now is immediate and smooth, with much better feel. I think the guy who posted that I had deposits on my OEM rotors from the pads was probably right. I must have broke hard, then stayed on the brakes without allowing proper cool down. Nevertheless, lesson learned. It doesn't excuse the fact that the OEM Acura brakes suck.
This go around, I did the proper bedding process. I found an empty highway close to me, then I went 60mph to 10mph about 4 times. I then drove about 5-10 minutes to allow proper cooling, and shifted it to park while at the light. Brakes are PERFECT now. I love them, both for feel/performance/looks. Thanks Stoptech! I might even consider these for the Mustang and her Brembos. hmmmm
The install process itself was not that bad. We would have been done in a couple of hours if it weren't for the stupid rotor screws. I went 7 for 8... successfully removing 7 using my Impact Drill. 1 of them stripped. So I had to drill out the stupid thing. Took me an additional 30 minutes dealing with that...ugh. I also had to go to the local parts store to rent the brake caliper tool box. I couldn't turn the rear piston calipers to compress them using a chisel/screwdriver. Whoever says/said they did, is LYING. No way Jose. Anyways, got them done easy enough, within 3 hours. A buddy of mine helped as an extra set of hands too. The rear rotors were harder to work with than the front because room/access is more limited. Then the socket would interfere/hit the suspension bolt. Bad design, Acura. tsk tsk.
I'd do this again in a heartbeat. SUPER easy. And fun.
Pics: (first one is of the stripped screw I had to drill out!!!)
Fronts removed
Rears removed
Fronts on. It's a nice subtle improvement in looks, imo. Sporty without being overbearing.
Ahhhh... at long last, my brake upgrade/installation is complete! I would have posted this Saturday after it was done, but alas, I was exhausted!
I've been enjoying the fruits of my labor for the last couple days. All I can say is W. O. W. I've been living with $hitty brakes for the past almost 2 years. You don't realize how bad your brakes were until you get new/good ones. The braking now is immediate and smooth, with much better feel. I think the guy who posted that I had deposits on my OEM rotors from the pads was probably right. I must have broke hard, then stayed on the brakes without allowing proper cool down. Nevertheless, lesson learned. It doesn't excuse the fact that the OEM Acura brakes suck.
This go around, I did the proper bedding process. I found an empty highway close to me, then I went 60mph to 10mph about 4 times. I then drove about 5-10 minutes to allow proper cooling, and shifted it to park while at the light. Brakes are PERFECT now. I love them, both for feel/performance/looks. Thanks Stoptech! I might even consider these for the Mustang and her Brembos. hmmmm
The install process itself was not that bad. We would have been done in a couple of hours if it weren't for the stupid rotor screws. I went 7 for 8... successfully removing 7 using my Impact Drill. 1 of them stripped. So I had to drill out the stupid thing. Took me an additional 30 minutes dealing with that...ugh. I also had to go to the local parts store to rent the brake caliper tool box. I couldn't turn the rear piston calipers to compress them using a chisel/screwdriver. Whoever says/said they did, is LYING. No way Jose. Anyways, got them done easy enough, within 3 hours. A buddy of mine helped as an extra set of hands too. The rear rotors were harder to work with than the front because room/access is more limited. Then the socket would interfere/hit the suspension bolt. Bad design, Acura. tsk tsk.
I'd do this again in a heartbeat. SUPER easy. And fun.
Pics: (first one is of the stripped screw I had to drill out!!!)
Fronts removed
Rears removed
Fronts on. It's a nice subtle improvement in looks, imo. Sporty without being overbearing.
Last edited by Integra2TSX; 10-12-2015 at 09:34 AM.
The following 3 users liked this post by Integra2TSX:
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Integra2TSX (10-12-2015)
10-12-2015, 12:42 PM
#3
Former Sponsor
Looking good! Great job doing the bed in!
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Integra2TSX (10-12-2015)
10-12-2015, 01:49 PM
#4
Thanks guys. Yeah the bedding process was easy. I just had to make sure the backroad/highway was clear.
I'm debating going back and cleaning and applying great to the sliding guide pins. I figured with only 19k on the clock, I didn't bother opening the pin/boot up to reapply grease. It runs/works fine now, like new. Is it worth pulling the wheel off and the caliper off just to regrease?
I'm debating going back and cleaning and applying great to the sliding guide pins. I figured with only 19k on the clock, I didn't bother opening the pin/boot up to reapply grease. It runs/works fine now, like new. Is it worth pulling the wheel off and the caliper off just to regrease?
10-12-2015, 02:01 PM
#6
Pro
I'm debating going back and cleaning and applying great to the sliding guide pins. I figured with only 19k on the clock, I didn't bother opening the pin/boot up to reapply grease. It runs/works fine now, like new. Is it worth pulling the wheel off and the caliper off just to regrease?
But honestly, I lube those up every time I change out from Spring/Winter and Winter/Spring wheels. Another 10-15 minutes to save youself from a headache later when they are seized up.
The following 2 users liked this post by ulrblitzer:
ExcelerateRep (10-12-2015),
Integra2TSX (10-12-2015)
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10-12-2015, 02:54 PM
#8
Sure, if you're bored. If you didn't notice uneven pad wear, you're probably ok this go round. Just do it the next time you have your car up on jack stands.
But honestly, I lube those up every time I change out from Spring/Winter and Winter/Spring wheels. Another 10-15 minutes to save youself from a headache later when they are seized up.
But honestly, I lube those up every time I change out from Spring/Winter and Winter/Spring wheels. Another 10-15 minutes to save youself from a headache later when they are seized up.
So wait, when you do yours you actually have to remove the sliding guide pin right? Which means... you need to remove the 2 caliper bolts (or 1 at a time then just slide up or slide down) to access the pins to grease. Is that right?
Well... not really. I read up on the DIY in the 1st gen section, but it was too generic. He just magically went from 1 step to another without really explaining. So I just went on it myself. Essentially, it's remove 4 bolts per caliper. Remove rotor. Install rotor. Reinstall 4 bolts. Boom done. The torque specs are what I had to look up. 80 ft lbs for the main bolts up front, 35 for smaller. Then 35/18 for rears I think.
10-12-2015, 03:16 PM
#9
Pro
What I do:
Crack lower caliper bolt. Flip up caliper.
Grab lower dust boot and pin, finagle slide pin out. Clean, insert, remove, and clean again. I do this a few times to get as much old lube out if it's coming out dirty. Apply 3m silicone paste, insert slide pin. Once almost inserted, I grab rubber boot and "pinch" it to let the trapped air pop out. Wipe off excess paste.
For the top, no need to remove the bolt. Just remove the whole caliper with the slide pin still attached. It'll slide out as one piece. You can unbolt it if you please. Repeat same steps for bottom slide pin.
I don't remember if you can flip up the rear caliper or if you'll have to remove both bolts. Either way, still pretty easy to do.
**Be careful not to rip your rubber boots as you finagle the slide pins in and out or you'll hate your life.
Last edited by ulrblitzer; 10-12-2015 at 03:23 PM.
10-13-2015, 09:17 AM
#10
Ericthecarguy has a good video up on servicing the brakes.
What I do:
Crack lower caliper bolt. Flip up caliper.
Grab lower dust boot and pin, finagle slide pin out. Clean, insert, remove, and clean again. I do this a few times to get as much old lube out if it's coming out dirty. Apply 3m silicone paste, insert slide pin. Once almost inserted, I grab rubber boot and "pinch" it to let the trapped air pop out. Wipe off excess paste.
For the top, no need to remove the bolt. Just remove the whole caliper with the slide pin still attached. It'll slide out as one piece. You can unbolt it if you please. Repeat same steps for bottom slide pin.
I don't remember if you can flip up the rear caliper or if you'll have to remove both bolts. Either way, still pretty easy to do.
**Be careful not to rip your rubber boots as you finagle the slide pins in and out or you'll hate your life.
What I do:
Crack lower caliper bolt. Flip up caliper.
Grab lower dust boot and pin, finagle slide pin out. Clean, insert, remove, and clean again. I do this a few times to get as much old lube out if it's coming out dirty. Apply 3m silicone paste, insert slide pin. Once almost inserted, I grab rubber boot and "pinch" it to let the trapped air pop out. Wipe off excess paste.
For the top, no need to remove the bolt. Just remove the whole caliper with the slide pin still attached. It'll slide out as one piece. You can unbolt it if you please. Repeat same steps for bottom slide pin.
I don't remember if you can flip up the rear caliper or if you'll have to remove both bolts. Either way, still pretty easy to do.
**Be careful not to rip your rubber boots as you finagle the slide pins in and out or you'll hate your life.
BrakeBest Hardware & Hydraulics 16053 - Brake Caliper Guide Pin Boot Kit | O'Reilly Auto Parts
10-13-2015, 10:08 AM
#11
Pro
Only way they rip is if you puncture it somehow or it has already been ripped/pinched and torn somehow.
but yeah, easy peasy. They just pop into the caliper bracket.
but yeah, easy peasy. They just pop into the caliper bracket.
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Integra2TSX (10-13-2015)
10-13-2015, 10:38 AM
#12
The boots you buy from an autoparts store will probably fall apart in 6 months or so. They aren't the same quality as OEM.
Its easier to just not rip them. In fact, ripping them takes quite a bit of carelessness. Its harder to rip them than it is to just not rip them.
Its easier to just not rip them. In fact, ripping them takes quite a bit of carelessness. Its harder to rip them than it is to just not rip them.
10-13-2015, 12:57 PM
#14
The boots you buy from an autoparts store will probably fall apart in 6 months or so. They aren't the same quality as OEM.
Its easier to just not rip them. In fact, ripping them takes quite a bit of carelessness. Its harder to rip them than it is to just not rip them.
Its easier to just not rip them. In fact, ripping them takes quite a bit of carelessness. Its harder to rip them than it is to just not rip them.
You got the same exact kind? You'll be very happy with them. I really enjoyed the actual work. I'd do it again in a heartbeat. In fact, I wonder when my wife's car will be needing replacement. LOL
10-13-2015, 01:49 PM
#15
With Hondas, as a general rule, with a few select exceptions, the genuine part is always better than aftermarket in terms of fit/finish/durability. Especially when referring to (but absolutely not limited to) gasketing or other rubber-ish materials.
I go go parts stores for brake rotors, accessory belts, and oil...and sometimes filters. That's almost about it. I'd never use a auto store brake caliper boot, tie rod end, ball joint, engine thermostat, valve cover gasket, etc.
Just a heads up to save you headaches for future maintenance parts.
I go go parts stores for brake rotors, accessory belts, and oil...and sometimes filters. That's almost about it. I'd never use a auto store brake caliper boot, tie rod end, ball joint, engine thermostat, valve cover gasket, etc.
Just a heads up to save you headaches for future maintenance parts.
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