StopTech Slotted Brake Rotors installed!!! (and pads properly bedded)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 12, 2015 | 09:30 AM
  #1  
Integra2TSX's Avatar
Thread Starter
Pro
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 542
Likes: 126
Thumbs up StopTech Slotted Brake Rotors installed!!! (and pads properly bedded)

(background = I ordered Stoptech Slotted Rotors and Posi Quiet pads to replace my 19k worn out OEM brakes)



Ahhhh... at long last, my brake upgrade/installation is complete! I would have posted this Saturday after it was done, but alas, I was exhausted!

I've been enjoying the fruits of my labor for the last couple days. All I can say is W. O. W. I've been living with $hitty brakes for the past almost 2 years. You don't realize how bad your brakes were until you get new/good ones. The braking now is immediate and smooth, with much better feel. I think the guy who posted that I had deposits on my OEM rotors from the pads was probably right. I must have broke hard, then stayed on the brakes without allowing proper cool down. Nevertheless, lesson learned. It doesn't excuse the fact that the OEM Acura brakes suck.

This go around, I did the proper bedding process. I found an empty highway close to me, then I went 60mph to 10mph about 4 times. I then drove about 5-10 minutes to allow proper cooling, and shifted it to park while at the light. Brakes are PERFECT now. I love them, both for feel/performance/looks. Thanks Stoptech! I might even consider these for the Mustang and her Brembos. hmmmm

The install process itself was not that bad. We would have been done in a couple of hours if it weren't for the stupid rotor screws. I went 7 for 8... successfully removing 7 using my Impact Drill. 1 of them stripped. So I had to drill out the stupid thing. Took me an additional 30 minutes dealing with that...ugh. I also had to go to the local parts store to rent the brake caliper tool box. I couldn't turn the rear piston calipers to compress them using a chisel/screwdriver. Whoever says/said they did, is LYING. No way Jose. Anyways, got them done easy enough, within 3 hours. A buddy of mine helped as an extra set of hands too. The rear rotors were harder to work with than the front because room/access is more limited. Then the socket would interfere/hit the suspension bolt. Bad design, Acura. tsk tsk.

I'd do this again in a heartbeat. SUPER easy. And fun.

Pics: (first one is of the stripped screw I had to drill out!!!)





Fronts removed





Rears removed



Fronts on. It's a nice subtle improvement in looks, imo. Sporty without being overbearing.






Last edited by Integra2TSX; Oct 12, 2015 at 09:34 AM.
Reply
Old Oct 12, 2015 | 09:32 AM
  #2  
justnspace's Avatar
Moderator
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 86,293
Likes: 16,291
Good job!
Reply
Old Oct 12, 2015 | 12:42 PM
  #3  
ExcelerateRep's Avatar
Former Sponsor
 
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,228
Likes: 354
From: Branford, CT
Looking good! Great job doing the bed in!
Reply
Old Oct 12, 2015 | 01:49 PM
  #4  
Integra2TSX's Avatar
Thread Starter
Pro
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 542
Likes: 126
Originally Posted by justnspace
Good job!
Originally Posted by ExcelerateRep
Looking good! Great job doing the bed in!
Thanks guys. Yeah the bedding process was easy. I just had to make sure the backroad/highway was clear.

I'm debating going back and cleaning and applying great to the sliding guide pins. I figured with only 19k on the clock, I didn't bother opening the pin/boot up to reapply grease. It runs/works fine now, like new. Is it worth pulling the wheel off and the caliper off just to regrease?
Reply
Old Oct 12, 2015 | 01:51 PM
  #5  
justnspace's Avatar
Moderator
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 86,293
Likes: 16,291
^if not squeaking, then no.
Reply
Old Oct 12, 2015 | 02:01 PM
  #6  
ulrblitzer's Avatar
Pro
 
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 643
Likes: 166
From: MN - Twin Cities
Originally Posted by Integra2TSX
I'm debating going back and cleaning and applying great to the sliding guide pins. I figured with only 19k on the clock, I didn't bother opening the pin/boot up to reapply grease. It runs/works fine now, like new. Is it worth pulling the wheel off and the caliper off just to regrease?
Sure, if you're bored. If you didn't notice uneven pad wear, you're probably ok this go round. Just do it the next time you have your car up on jack stands.

But honestly, I lube those up every time I change out from Spring/Winter and Winter/Spring wheels. Another 10-15 minutes to save youself from a headache later when they are seized up.
Reply
Old Oct 12, 2015 | 02:29 PM
  #7  
VR1's Avatar
VR1
Itz JDM y0!
10 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,139
Likes: 449
From: Houston, TX
Same route I plan on taking! Is there a DIY you followed?
Reply
Old Oct 12, 2015 | 02:54 PM
  #8  
Integra2TSX's Avatar
Thread Starter
Pro
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 542
Likes: 126
Originally Posted by ulrblitzer
Sure, if you're bored. If you didn't notice uneven pad wear, you're probably ok this go round. Just do it the next time you have your car up on jack stands.

But honestly, I lube those up every time I change out from Spring/Winter and Winter/Spring wheels. Another 10-15 minutes to save youself from a headache later when they are seized up.
Yeah, I might do it when I slap the winter wheels on.

So wait, when you do yours you actually have to remove the sliding guide pin right? Which means... you need to remove the 2 caliper bolts (or 1 at a time then just slide up or slide down) to access the pins to grease. Is that right?

Originally Posted by VR1
Same route I plan on taking! Is there a DIY you followed?
Well... not really. I read up on the DIY in the 1st gen section, but it was too generic. He just magically went from 1 step to another without really explaining. So I just went on it myself. Essentially, it's remove 4 bolts per caliper. Remove rotor. Install rotor. Reinstall 4 bolts. Boom done. The torque specs are what I had to look up. 80 ft lbs for the main bolts up front, 35 for smaller. Then 35/18 for rears I think.
Reply
Old Oct 12, 2015 | 03:16 PM
  #9  
ulrblitzer's Avatar
Pro
 
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 643
Likes: 166
From: MN - Twin Cities
Originally Posted by Integra2TSX
So wait, when you do yours you actually have to remove the sliding guide pin right? Which means... you need to remove the 2 caliper bolts (or 1 at a time then just slide up or slide down) to access the pins to grease. Is that right?
Ericthecarguy has a good video up on servicing the brakes.

What I do:

Crack lower caliper bolt. Flip up caliper.
Grab lower dust boot and pin, finagle slide pin out. Clean, insert, remove, and clean again. I do this a few times to get as much old lube out if it's coming out dirty. Apply 3m silicone paste, insert slide pin. Once almost inserted, I grab rubber boot and "pinch" it to let the trapped air pop out. Wipe off excess paste.

For the top, no need to remove the bolt. Just remove the whole caliper with the slide pin still attached. It'll slide out as one piece. You can unbolt it if you please. Repeat same steps for bottom slide pin.

I don't remember if you can flip up the rear caliper or if you'll have to remove both bolts. Either way, still pretty easy to do.

**Be careful not to rip your rubber boots as you finagle the slide pins in and out or you'll hate your life.

Last edited by ulrblitzer; Oct 12, 2015 at 03:23 PM.
Reply
Old Oct 13, 2015 | 09:17 AM
  #10  
Integra2TSX's Avatar
Thread Starter
Pro
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 542
Likes: 126
Originally Posted by ulrblitzer
Ericthecarguy has a good video up on servicing the brakes.

What I do:

Crack lower caliper bolt. Flip up caliper.
Grab lower dust boot and pin, finagle slide pin out. Clean, insert, remove, and clean again. I do this a few times to get as much old lube out if it's coming out dirty. Apply 3m silicone paste, insert slide pin. Once almost inserted, I grab rubber boot and "pinch" it to let the trapped air pop out. Wipe off excess paste.

For the top, no need to remove the bolt. Just remove the whole caliper with the slide pin still attached. It'll slide out as one piece. You can unbolt it if you please. Repeat same steps for bottom slide pin.

I don't remember if you can flip up the rear caliper or if you'll have to remove both bolts. Either way, still pretty easy to do.

**Be careful not to rip your rubber boots as you finagle the slide pins in and out or you'll hate your life.
If the boots get ripped, you can just get them from the auto store right? They're cheap enough and I'd assume easy to install?

BrakeBest Hardware & Hydraulics 16053 - Brake Caliper Guide Pin Boot Kit | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Reply
Old Oct 13, 2015 | 10:08 AM
  #11  
ulrblitzer's Avatar
Pro
 
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 643
Likes: 166
From: MN - Twin Cities
Only way they rip is if you puncture it somehow or it has already been ripped/pinched and torn somehow.

but yeah, easy peasy. They just pop into the caliper bracket.
Reply
Old Oct 13, 2015 | 10:38 AM
  #12  
BROlando's Avatar
Safety Car
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 3,871
Likes: 1,215
The boots you buy from an autoparts store will probably fall apart in 6 months or so. They aren't the same quality as OEM.

Its easier to just not rip them. In fact, ripping them takes quite a bit of carelessness. Its harder to rip them than it is to just not rip them.
Reply
Old Oct 13, 2015 | 11:45 AM
  #13  
ichi_ban's Avatar
8th Gear
 
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Looks good! Can't wait to do mine as they're sitting in my trunk LOL
Reply
Old Oct 13, 2015 | 12:57 PM
  #14  
Integra2TSX's Avatar
Thread Starter
Pro
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 542
Likes: 126
Originally Posted by Roland_Bluntzs
The boots you buy from an autoparts store will probably fall apart in 6 months or so. They aren't the same quality as OEM.

Its easier to just not rip them. In fact, ripping them takes quite a bit of carelessness. Its harder to rip them than it is to just not rip them.
Interesting. Yeah, given this is the first that I've done my brakes, it was the first I've played/seen the boot up close. The OEM ones aren't anything special. I'd think the autoparts stores ones are fine too, but eh... let's just hope I don't rip any. LOL.

Originally Posted by ichi_ban
Looks good! Can't wait to do mine as they're sitting in my trunk LOL
You got the same exact kind? You'll be very happy with them. I really enjoyed the actual work. I'd do it again in a heartbeat. In fact, I wonder when my wife's car will be needing replacement. LOL
Reply
Old Oct 13, 2015 | 01:49 PM
  #15  
BROlando's Avatar
Safety Car
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
 
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 3,871
Likes: 1,215
With Hondas, as a general rule, with a few select exceptions, the genuine part is always better than aftermarket in terms of fit/finish/durability. Especially when referring to (but absolutely not limited to) gasketing or other rubber-ish materials.

I go go parts stores for brake rotors, accessory belts, and oil...and sometimes filters. That's almost about it. I'd never use a auto store brake caliper boot, tie rod end, ball joint, engine thermostat, valve cover gasket, etc.

Just a heads up to save you headaches for future maintenance parts.
Reply
Old Mar 3, 2016 | 12:32 PM
  #16  
mvpvc3's Avatar
2nd Gear
 
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Nice good job, how much did it cost you?
Reply
Old Mar 6, 2016 | 12:03 PM
  #17  
briq456's Avatar
Racer
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 334
Likes: 29
How do these look now? the black paint still holding up ?
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
leprekhan
3G TL Problems & Fixes
33
Sep 4, 2022 06:47 PM
JDMjnki
3G TL Performance Parts & Modifications
6
Feb 29, 2016 06:16 PM
Bamagirl77
2G RDX (2013-2018)
82
Nov 7, 2015 11:19 PM
herbert6368
4G TL Tires, Wheels & Suspension
27
Nov 6, 2015 09:45 PM
nearpost
3G TL Problems & Fixes
4
Oct 5, 2015 07:51 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:31 PM.