ThreePointTwoTeeEl

iTrader: (1)

I'll get right into it.....

So, my passenger side HID is back to acting funky. During the winter it NEVER went out ONCE, but about a month ago when it started to get warm again, it started going out A LOT. I had the same problem last summer but once it started getting cold, it never EVER gave me a problem. Temperature clearly has something to do with this but why? What could this be?

Second: My front drivers side suspension is making a knocking noise. It only happens when I'm accelerating, Decelerating, or going over bumps like speed bumps etc (Basically, whenever the nose of my car has to go up or down). I Only notice at low speeds because I can hear it and I also need to have the radio on. I can slightly feel it on the brake petal when it happens.
It sounds like knocking sounds, I wouldn't say creaking but more like consecutive knocking (quickly). Quick note, I got my axle replaced about 2 months ago there because the boot was torn. What could this be?

Lastly: I got some gas yesterday because the gas light came on...put five bucks in and the gauge clearly rose from its previous point, and I see this:



When i noticed it, it was actually one line higher than the picture above and the gas light didn't turn off! I tried taking off the gas cap and putting it back but the light was still there. I'll put 10 bucks in it tomorrow and see what happens. Usually, the light comes on when it reaches the Last line. What could this be?

KieranM37

if im not mistaken the light comes on at the third line up from the bottom.

as per your other concerns, i dont have a clue. i can guarantee someone on here will though

ThreePointTwoTeeEl

iTrader: (1)

In my first post, I meant to say, "I need to have the radio OFF"*

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

Check your ball joints, sway bar end links, and strut mounts.

Have someone drive over a bump and stand outside the car and listen for the noise. You can usually narrow down the area where it's coming from.

01tl4tl

those plus it may be a bad axle- even ones just installed can be bad
was it rebuilt or all new parts?
look for broken sway bar end links, any shiny marks from things rubbing after axle work done

rcb2000

I would say you have bad motor mounts letting the band on the CV boot rub against the suspension parts.

01tl4tl

you put in ~1.3 gallons on a low tank and expect the guage to what exactly?
too many factors come into play with temps, shape of tank, levelness of car,,,

I need 5 dollars for gas,,thats something the kids say to me!,,what car are they driving they only need 1 gallon!

my 2 wheel honda only holds 4 gal,,5$ barely raises its fuel gauge

01tl4tl

interesting thought rcb--have you seen a TL with bad mounts do that?

with those fluid filled mounts front and rear, there is a lot of room for the engine to drop

rcb2000

I have had this issue on other cars, when the motor mount goes the engine rolls forward or back and drops the Half shafts and then the boots can hit on the cross member of the subframe or the control arms/spindles. Typically the endlinks rattle going over bumps, appling the brakes usually doesn't effect them,

Accellerating or decellerating changes the engine angle do to loading and unloading the motor mounts which changes the clearance of the half shafts as well. look under the car for a damaged band on the CV boots.

if it is a repeative noise and is a consistant intervall between the noises and if that also changes as the speed increases or decreases then it has to be a problem with the half shaft or brakes or rotating part on the front of the car or a rear wheel issue related to bearings or brakes

Rockstar21

iTrader: (1)

my gas light came on just after it dropped below a 1/4 tank.. your light is fine.

xtremex626

iTrader: (1)

in some cases.. the gas light does get stuck on our cars because of the sensors... it happened to me not too long ago.. pumped up from empty (light on), and it went up a quarter.. yet my gas light was still on. happened again the next fill up so i knew something was wrong.. simply resetted the ecu and everything was back to normal.

JterrorC

iTrader: (1)

5 isnt enough... your car wants more...even tho its around 4... take 60 out and fill it up homie..my fill ranges from 55-65 depending what price n how low ofcourse

ThreePointTwoTeeEl

iTrader: (1)

Just put some more Juice in it...the light went away.

lokee99

iTrader: (3)

lol

ThreePointTwoTeeEl

iTrader: (1)

So....I'm still having suspension problems.

I changed the front and right motor mounts but the noise is still there on my front passenger side suspension.

It has actually gotten louder.

I don't think that it's motor mounts because I can have the car still and move the steering wheel side to side and hear it.

It is now a creaking and knocking sound depending on what I do.

The thing that sucks is that the wheel needs to be on and the car can't be raised and try to duplicate the sound in the air. There needs to be weight for the sound to happen.

We've taken the wheel off but nothing looks wrong.

Rack and Pinion?

TLer trash

Inner and outer tie rod ends will sometimes only show looseness with the suspension at ride height rather than on a hoist. Sway bar links twist when the steering moves left and right and can creak.

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Your gas light is fine. It does that because when the gas ON trigger is much lower than the gas OFF trigger. This avoids the light coming on and off when it is at that border line.

01tl4tl

way to catch up k7 lol the mystery was already solved, add fuel and light goes off,,5 bucks isnt going to do it~

an alignment shop is able to have the car raised while sitting on all 4 wheels like normal

They also know suspension and steering parts!! and can help get a correct diagnosis for you

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Ahhhh... my first suspension problem.

I got the front end creaking now. I also found out that I have a torn axle boot too. I think it's the struts, but idk. Maybe rusty tie rods.

01tl4tl

or the cv axle bearing protesting its lack of grease

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

True, I'm gonna have it inspected by the dealership.

From what I understand, the worn strut will only weaken the dampening capabilities of the car. That means the creaking/clunking noise isn't coming from the actual strut, but rather something else that is moving too much because of the weak strut.

I would rather fix the actual source of the noise, and then replace the strut. If I replace the strut and the actual loose parts stop moving, I'll never know what was actually loose.

01tl4tl

bounce the corner of the car 3 times with effort and let go
It should stop bouncing within ~1/2 motion
ck against other corners of the car

When stuts/shocks blow the inner seal, there is a weep hole for it to create an oil trail,
may be some dust attached to the oil-
much like a failed front motor mount would do

its easy to look under the car and ck the steering and suspension parts

rusty tie rods? is the boot good on the part? part rotates in its spindle? its good
external surface rust is not a concern

Madnesss

creeking sound is most likely ball joints, knocking sound is either work sway bar bushings or very bad ball joint. but if the ball joints creeking is probably wont be knocking, either one or the other.
put the car up on a jack, grab the wheel like your trying to turn it, see if theres any play in it, if there is, its probably an inner or outer tie rod. try shaking it the same way but this time grab the top and the bottom of the wheel, if theres play in it that way, probably a ball joint... try this on both front wheels, easier then taking it to a shop. also, while its on the jack , get under it and check the sway bar bushings and links...

ThreePointTwoTeeEl

iTrader: (1)

I finally got this fixed today.

It was the lower ball joint. I didn't replace it but we put more grease in there. The outer rubber was also broken but after putting more grease in there it went away. I also changed the Axle on the same side.