Spark Plug replace/change DIY
#42
do the seafoam DIY for intake manifold vac port at least... a few days before plugs- will make a huge diffeance to have a clean workspace for them!
#44
the trick is having a 3 and 6 inch extensions- combine as needed for rears and its cake
Do a front to get the feel for the job then rears
Do a front to get the feel for the job then rears
#46
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nice sperry, do you do a lot of city driving or highway? i do a lot of city and a some highway. my gas mileage suffers a little but not that much.
i know with that new air filter and new spark plugs, your TL feels like new! haha congrats!
i know with that new air filter and new spark plugs, your TL feels like new! haha congrats!
#48
2000 TL Black on Beige
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nice sperry, do you do a lot of city driving or highway?
Today I averaged 30.61 mpg, mostly highway driving, over 285 miles.
When the tank is dry, I'll fill up with 91 instead of the usual 87, and check the mpg difference.
#49
please dont run the TL on 87
Do run a can of seafoam in half a tank of 91 gas to clean the crud left behind by 87!!
Do run a can of seafoam in half a tank of 91 gas to clean the crud left behind by 87!!
#51
#52
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@mohater: hey dude the pics are visible. Maybe you should check your browser. I still periodically use my photobucket account. So they should still be showing!
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#53
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sucks but I got to suck it up since our cars do have V6's in them. I would rather have power!
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#55
What I thought was bad gas (took it to the dealer since all six cylinders were throwing misfires at once) ended up being crappy plugs (I don't know who put bosch plugs in the TL).
What a waste of a diagnostic fee...
Oh well. Thanks for the DIY
What a waste of a diagnostic fee...
Oh well. Thanks for the DIY
#57
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look into that.
#58
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
and bloated also (heavy), weigh mine recently, and basically with about a 60-70 sub, empty tank of gas (light came on like 2-3 minutes later with just idleing), and me in the car (180lbs) car weighed 3750 lbs with 2300 of that on the front axle, so not exactly light weight either
#60
ok that was really odd...
Enroute to Bell Tire (fix a flat leaky tire and rotate/balance), it shuddered and jerked like before.
Way back to work, just rough idle when stopped, no shudder or jerking when pushing the gas... Guess I need to clean the EGR valve and do a seafoam treatment...
Enroute to Bell Tire (fix a flat leaky tire and rotate/balance), it shuddered and jerked like before.
Way back to work, just rough idle when stopped, no shudder or jerking when pushing the gas... Guess I need to clean the EGR valve and do a seafoam treatment...
#62
B A N N E D
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ok that was really odd...
Enroute to Bell Tire (fix a flat leaky tire and rotate/balance), it shuddered and jerked like before.
Way back to work, just rough idle when stopped, no shudder or jerking when pushing the gas... Guess I need to clean the EGR valve and do a seafoam treatment...
Enroute to Bell Tire (fix a flat leaky tire and rotate/balance), it shuddered and jerked like before.
Way back to work, just rough idle when stopped, no shudder or jerking when pushing the gas... Guess I need to clean the EGR valve and do a seafoam treatment...
but yeah normally the valve itself is perfectly fine, it's up in the intake manifold itself where they really like to plug up (and then sometimes even the passage leading between the manifold and valve, not as often, but it still does though)
#63
a full can of seafoam to just under a half tank of gas
#65
I was thinking of the easy DIY method which also gets the fuel injectors- since a problem with rough running- lets get everything and giving it time to work longer also helps with stubborn crud
Yes a full blast thru the manifold vac port gives instant results on most of the parts and is also suggested,,noobs repeat in a month
but if not DIY inclined that way- the gas tank method works at that dose of 2 oz per gal--that is MAX dose seafoam suggest, do that in 2 half tanks
If you want to get the intake runners and such- email seafoam and ask for the new 3 foot straw- it has a 360 degree spray pattern from the end, and is made for intakes like ours that split -
you feed it in thru the TB throat to the length of the manifold and spray right into each runner - while pulling the tube back out
see tech info on injected cars www.seafoamsales.com
Jim Davies is a great tech help there if you call
Yes a full blast thru the manifold vac port gives instant results on most of the parts and is also suggested,,noobs repeat in a month
but if not DIY inclined that way- the gas tank method works at that dose of 2 oz per gal--that is MAX dose seafoam suggest, do that in 2 half tanks
If you want to get the intake runners and such- email seafoam and ask for the new 3 foot straw- it has a 360 degree spray pattern from the end, and is made for intakes like ours that split -
you feed it in thru the TB throat to the length of the manifold and spray right into each runner - while pulling the tube back out
see tech info on injected cars www.seafoamsales.com
Jim Davies is a great tech help there if you call
#66
seafoam added thru vac port gets mixed with gas entering the system
that mixture will reach anywhere intake air goes on its way thru the valves and combustion chamber, plus cat on the way out
but without good heat and direct soaking,,the results are less
If running the wrong plug for the TL- clean out the crud by both gas and manifold
that would speed diagnosis of any remaining problem- if there is any prob after a good scour~
that mixture will reach anywhere intake air goes on its way thru the valves and combustion chamber, plus cat on the way out
but without good heat and direct soaking,,the results are less
If running the wrong plug for the TL- clean out the crud by both gas and manifold
that would speed diagnosis of any remaining problem- if there is any prob after a good scour~
#67
This write up helped me out while putting my new spark plugs and coil-packs in... Just didn't know about the seafoam, a day before the install. Still still thinking about using the seafoam, but not certain.
#69
SCMPredator
Iridium IX is coated with some sort of anti-seize and corrosion resistant coating. Do you really need to buy and use the anti-seize grease? The installation instructions on the NGK website doesn't make any mention of it.
#70
you dont have to use any anti sieze grease- but it will help in a few ways
-easier install of plug with lubed threads
-easier removal next time- wont be siezed
eliminates or reduces dielectric corrossion of plug to head
its only a buck for the little pack- plenty for 6 plugs
use a thin bead around the 2nd and 3rd threads up from the end that goes in engine
Dont want to put too much on and squeeze it into the cylinder-thats bad when it bakes onto the piston,,,seafoam to the rescue
-easier install of plug with lubed threads
-easier removal next time- wont be siezed
eliminates or reduces dielectric corrossion of plug to head
its only a buck for the little pack- plenty for 6 plugs
use a thin bead around the 2nd and 3rd threads up from the end that goes in engine
Dont want to put too much on and squeeze it into the cylinder-thats bad when it bakes onto the piston,,,seafoam to the rescue
#71
It's the Halladay season!
iTrader: (5)
I don't think it was mentioned, but anyway, for the Type-S people...remove the IMRC motor.
Two 10mm bolts and move it out of the way. It will make your life a whole lot easier.
Just did this. It was a breeze, hope to monitor gas mileage over the next few days.
Two 10mm bolts and move it out of the way. It will make your life a whole lot easier.
Just did this. It was a breeze, hope to monitor gas mileage over the next few days.
#72
Thanks for the tip!
#73
What's up everybody... new to the forums, always popped in but never registered. I have a 03 A-spec TL which i love to death... My dad also has a 93'Acura Legend that's about to hit 400K. I hope to get similar results from my TL... and with this forum, it's looking pretty good. Anway... I just wanted to say thank you to all the contributors.... my car is at 102K and a bit sluggish, so i did my reading and i know what to do... but just wanted to extend another big THANK YOU in regards to the seafoam thread. After reading many of 01tl4tl's comments... i did the damn thang today... changed air filter also, car is purring and has got it's punch back. NGK iridiums going in next weekend ftw.... BIG UP.
#74
What's up everybody... new to the forums, always popped in but never registered. I have a 03 A-spec TL which i love to death... My dad also has a 93'Acura Legend that's about to hit 400K. I hope to get similar results from my TL... and with this forum, it's looking pretty good. Anway... I just wanted to say thank you to all the contributors.... my car is at 102K and a bit sluggish, so i did my reading and i know what to do... but just wanted to extend another big THANK YOU in regards to the seafoam thread. After reading many of 01tl4tl's comments... i did the damn thang today... changed air filter also, car is purring and has got it's punch back. NGK iridiums going in next weekend ftw.... BIG UP.
may want to look into doing EGR ports soon too (check DIY)
Last edited by webmastir; 06-08-2010 at 11:47 AM.
#76
Drifting
Overtighten- risk stripping the threads in the head and/or breaking the plug off.
Undertighten- could eventually loosen and be blown out, possible damage to head threads.
Undertighten- could eventually loosen and be blown out, possible damage to head threads.
#77
too loose and compression blows out past supposed seal
1 time a car came in the shop with bad noise- looked under hood and entire spark plug and its wire were laying next to the engine...someone didnt tighten that plug right!!
too tight and damage to threads and incorrect plug depth in combuston chamber
use torque wrench or method listed on box of hand tighten plus x amount of turn
Fairly Snug is about right
1 time a car came in the shop with bad noise- looked under hood and entire spark plug and its wire were laying next to the engine...someone didnt tighten that plug right!!
too tight and damage to threads and incorrect plug depth in combuston chamber
use torque wrench or method listed on box of hand tighten plus x amount of turn
Fairly Snug is about right
#78
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too loose and compression blows out past supposed seal
1 time a car came in the shop with bad noise- looked under hood and entire spark plug and its wire were laying next to the engine...someone didnt tighten that plug right!!
too tight and damage to threads and incorrect plug depth in combuston chamber
use torque wrench or method listed on box of hand tighten plus x amount of turn
Fairly Snug is about right
1 time a car came in the shop with bad noise- looked under hood and entire spark plug and its wire were laying next to the engine...someone didnt tighten that plug right!!
too tight and damage to threads and incorrect plug depth in combuston chamber
use torque wrench or method listed on box of hand tighten plus x amount of turn
Fairly Snug is about right
#80
your muscle memory is a decent tool once you know what the correct torque feels like on the ratchet- pull on ratchet and feel how tight it is before part removal
holding your hand direct on top of ratchet head will generate about 10 lbs
thats a bit more than finger tight, and go tighter from there till it feels snug.
not super tight- just seated on its CRUSH washer seal ring,,,crush to seal and stop~
holding your hand direct on top of ratchet head will generate about 10 lbs
thats a bit more than finger tight, and go tighter from there till it feels snug.
not super tight- just seated on its CRUSH washer seal ring,,,crush to seal and stop~