Spark Plug replace/change DIY
#161
OK Just wanted to make sure and not do something totally wrong and mess it up
so can anyone tell whether these (http://www.amazon.com/NGK-ZFR5FIX-11...ef=lh_di_t_dup)
are for the TL-P or S?
so can anyone tell whether these (http://www.amazon.com/NGK-ZFR5FIX-11...ef=lh_di_t_dup)
are for the TL-P or S?
I check on Amazon and it fit to Tl-s too but just want to make sure whoever install recently please come up with model No. will be great.
#162
Senior Moderator
5s are for the TL-P, 6's are for the S. Both will fit, but they dont have the same heat range. Stick with the 6s
The following users liked this post:
winhansse (08-30-2011)
#163
OK Just wanted to make sure and not do something totally wrong and mess it up
so can anyone tell whether these (http://www.amazon.com/NGK-ZFR5FIX-11...ef=lh_di_t_dup)
are for the TL-P or S?
so can anyone tell whether these (http://www.amazon.com/NGK-ZFR5FIX-11...ef=lh_di_t_dup)
are for the TL-P or S?
For the TL-P
The Normal NGK Platinum is: ZFR5F-11
The IX Iridium just Adds (IX) To the equation: ZFR5FIX-11
For the Type-S
NGK Platinum: ZFR6F-11
NGK Iridium IX: ZFR6FIX-11
from Skirmich at other spark plug thread.
The following users liked this post:
Gabru678 (08-31-2011)
#164
Moderator
^ Yup only the Heat Range is the difference....
But is very Important as you Saw in my Thread, Wrong heat Temperature will get your plugs Dirty in no Time...
But is very Important as you Saw in my Thread, Wrong heat Temperature will get your plugs Dirty in no Time...
The following users liked this post:
winhansse (08-31-2011)
#165
This is getting to be a long thread and I admit I only read about the first 20 posts but I do have a few small suggestions to add. But first and most importantly, I also want to thank the OP for a GREAT writeup.
I just did the plugs on my 99 TL with 113K miles. No problems except for the infamous passenger side rear plug which is in a space tighter than a virgin's hoo hoo, and is harder to reach than the legendary city of Eldorado. Some tips:
1. Definitely remove the clamp on the PS hose as other posters have noted. You won't be able to reach that difficult plug without it unless your name is Rubberman.
2. Working on the rear is a bit of an agility test for an older gentleman like myself. I found it easiest to work from the driver's side and reach across, but your mileage may vary.
3. Getting the connector off that infernal plug's coil was the hardest part of all, but don't be discouraged. I recommend doing the others first so you have a good feel for how to unlock, grasp and pull the connector before attempting the toughest one.
4. You will definitely need a 6" extension, especially for the back where a 3" would be too short and a 12" would be too long.
5. A 5/8" spark plug socket (with a rubber or magnetic insert to hold the plug when you pull out the socket) would definitely be a good investment. I used a 5/8" deep socket because I didn't have one, and while it fits fine it was difficult to extract the plugs from the coil wells with it. I ended up using a combination of a magnetic probe and a rubber hose which fit snugly over the terminal on the end of the plug but if I had to do it over again I would definitely make sure I had the spark plug socket on hand.
6. As with most things, it was much more difficult to get it apart than to put it back together. Getting the new plugs in was no problem with the 5/8" deep socket - you won't need the special spark plug socket for that.
7. I definitely recommend coating the threads of everything but especially the plugs with anti-seize compound before reassembly. After 113K miles the original plug threads had some rust on them and were so hard to loosen I was afraid I was going to snap one off or strip the threads (but didn't).
8. My old plugs had some carbon on the metal electrodes but the ceramic insulator was clean with a slightly greyish/brownish discoloration. Perfectly normal which is a happy thing to see after 113K miles.
9. My oil seals were not leaking and the coils looked good. I reused them.
10. There isn't really a 10, but every list has to have 10 things, doesn't it?
I just did the plugs on my 99 TL with 113K miles. No problems except for the infamous passenger side rear plug which is in a space tighter than a virgin's hoo hoo, and is harder to reach than the legendary city of Eldorado. Some tips:
1. Definitely remove the clamp on the PS hose as other posters have noted. You won't be able to reach that difficult plug without it unless your name is Rubberman.
2. Working on the rear is a bit of an agility test for an older gentleman like myself. I found it easiest to work from the driver's side and reach across, but your mileage may vary.
3. Getting the connector off that infernal plug's coil was the hardest part of all, but don't be discouraged. I recommend doing the others first so you have a good feel for how to unlock, grasp and pull the connector before attempting the toughest one.
4. You will definitely need a 6" extension, especially for the back where a 3" would be too short and a 12" would be too long.
5. A 5/8" spark plug socket (with a rubber or magnetic insert to hold the plug when you pull out the socket) would definitely be a good investment. I used a 5/8" deep socket because I didn't have one, and while it fits fine it was difficult to extract the plugs from the coil wells with it. I ended up using a combination of a magnetic probe and a rubber hose which fit snugly over the terminal on the end of the plug but if I had to do it over again I would definitely make sure I had the spark plug socket on hand.
6. As with most things, it was much more difficult to get it apart than to put it back together. Getting the new plugs in was no problem with the 5/8" deep socket - you won't need the special spark plug socket for that.
7. I definitely recommend coating the threads of everything but especially the plugs with anti-seize compound before reassembly. After 113K miles the original plug threads had some rust on them and were so hard to loosen I was afraid I was going to snap one off or strip the threads (but didn't).
8. My old plugs had some carbon on the metal electrodes but the ceramic insulator was clean with a slightly greyish/brownish discoloration. Perfectly normal which is a happy thing to see after 113K miles.
9. My oil seals were not leaking and the coils looked good. I reused them.
10. There isn't really a 10, but every list has to have 10 things, doesn't it?
#166
OK, there really was a 10 :
10. I meant to post a link to a page showing how to tell stuff about your engine by the way the old plugs look. If you're a newbie this is really useful stuff to know:
http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/t.../diagnosis.htm
10. I meant to post a link to a page showing how to tell stuff about your engine by the way the old plugs look. If you're a newbie this is really useful stuff to know:
http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/t.../diagnosis.htm
#167
NOTE:
use plug anti sieze on the threads = SPARINGLY = on the 3-5th threads up from the active tip of the plug, dont get any on the end of the plug !!
Too much on the threads gets pushed into the cylinder and onto the piston, where heat will sear it to the piston causing uneven combustion,,requires seafoam or similar to clean off, along with normal carbon buildup
You want to have that small amount on the threads for ease of install- and prevents the corrosion bond that developes between different metals
Torque/tightness on plugs is very important too- too much and you can break a plug, or it will break on removal later.
Too little torque and the plugs can leak compression past them. Makes it run really strange
passenger rear plug is easier to get the tools in with a 3 and 6 inch extension- lowering socket and extensions in pieces into the well
Notice the indent on the firewall, your hand fits right there when on top of ratchet
For install- use a piece of vac tube slipped over the top end of plug- allows you to lower plug gently and start the threads with fingertip control.
You can tell if its starting right or cross-threading better than with socket on plug
then tighten with normal socket or special plug socket if you have one
Its very important the plug end is not banged around, changing the electrode distance and firing ability of the plug,,8 bucks each,, I want to take care of them
DO NOT DROP the plug in by hand --then stick the socket in and try to find the thread starting point.
Coils: treat them like Grandmas fine china, set down gently, handle with care
Or in a month you will experience a coil failure
never hurt to clean every electrical connection with CRC contact cleaner or similar
Spray in and dirt runs out
use plug anti sieze on the threads = SPARINGLY = on the 3-5th threads up from the active tip of the plug, dont get any on the end of the plug !!
Too much on the threads gets pushed into the cylinder and onto the piston, where heat will sear it to the piston causing uneven combustion,,requires seafoam or similar to clean off, along with normal carbon buildup
You want to have that small amount on the threads for ease of install- and prevents the corrosion bond that developes between different metals
Torque/tightness on plugs is very important too- too much and you can break a plug, or it will break on removal later.
Too little torque and the plugs can leak compression past them. Makes it run really strange
passenger rear plug is easier to get the tools in with a 3 and 6 inch extension- lowering socket and extensions in pieces into the well
Notice the indent on the firewall, your hand fits right there when on top of ratchet
For install- use a piece of vac tube slipped over the top end of plug- allows you to lower plug gently and start the threads with fingertip control.
You can tell if its starting right or cross-threading better than with socket on plug
then tighten with normal socket or special plug socket if you have one
Its very important the plug end is not banged around, changing the electrode distance and firing ability of the plug,,8 bucks each,, I want to take care of them
DO NOT DROP the plug in by hand --then stick the socket in and try to find the thread starting point.
Coils: treat them like Grandmas fine china, set down gently, handle with care
Or in a month you will experience a coil failure
never hurt to clean every electrical connection with CRC contact cleaner or similar
Spray in and dirt runs out
#168
Good point about using the anti-seize sparingly. When I was a kid there was a commercial for a hair product called Brylcream. Their slogan was "a little dab'll do ya" - that applies here as well. I actually rub a small amount from the tube directly onto the threads, just one stripe on each side, not all the way around. That's plenty. If you use that little it will not squeeze into the cylinder. If anything, it will get pushed to the outside of the head wall by the act of threading in the plug.
#169
When I did my plugs at 90K i just used a dab on the threads and let it spread by it's self when I put the new plugs in. that rear plug was a pita but i got it done
#170
The idea that our plugs will last 100k is a joke. I noticed some pinging when going up an incline. I always use premium gas. I decided to change the plugs-they had around 55k on them. Car ran much better after changing them. I must have had a weak plug. No more pinging, better mileage, acceleration and smoother running engine over all. Anyone with 50-60k+ miles should change their plugs. I signed up at the AUTO ZONE web site and occationally they send me a 20% off coupon for online ordering. After you order online and plug in the 20% off code, you just go to the store and pick up your order. Saved $2 on each plug and a few other items. They had sea foam on sale also with another 20% off. I seafoamed the intake, added 1/2 can to the engine oil and 1/2 can to about 4/5 gallons of fuel before I changed the plugs. Engine runs perfect at 138,000 miles.
#171
Thats correct, a stripe of anti-sieze is a very good way to apply it down one side
I dont suggest bare fingers with this stuff, as anyone who has touched it will know why.
with the small tube of it, no prob to dab some, somehow, onto the plug
the distribution will take care of itself
does not need to be wrapped around perfectly or at all,,as long as a little is on the threads the job is done
I dont suggest bare fingers with this stuff, as anyone who has touched it will know why.
with the small tube of it, no prob to dab some, somehow, onto the plug
the distribution will take care of itself
does not need to be wrapped around perfectly or at all,,as long as a little is on the threads the job is done
#173
The idea that our plugs will last 100k is a joke. I noticed some pinging when going up an incline. I always use premium gas. I decided to change the plugs-they had around 55k on them. Car ran much better after changing them. I must have had a weak plug. No more pinging, better mileage, acceleration and smoother running engine over all. Anyone with 50-60k+ miles should change their plugs. I signed up at the AUTO ZONE web site and occationally they send me a 20% off coupon for online ordering. After you order online and plug in the 20% off code, you just go to the store and pick up your order. Saved $2 on each plug and a few other items. They had sea foam on sale also with another 20% off. I seafoamed the intake, added 1/2 can to the engine oil and 1/2 can to about 4/5 gallons of fuel before I changed the plugs. Engine runs perfect at 138,000 miles.
#174
because someone changed them around 80,000 miles, now he has 138
octane is an imaginary number - additives are used to `boost octane` = delay the fuels desire to ignite from compressed molecules temp increase,,before top dead center of the piston
carbon buildup causes pinging and poor running- its real,,
as proven by ziner pics of heads removed (the cars not theirs) and severe carbon on the piston tops
octane is an imaginary number - additives are used to `boost octane` = delay the fuels desire to ignite from compressed molecules temp increase,,before top dead center of the piston
carbon buildup causes pinging and poor running- its real,,
as proven by ziner pics of heads removed (the cars not theirs) and severe carbon on the piston tops
#175
I can't get to any of the rear plugs in my TL-S. There is a metal bar in the way. This bar looks like it's bolted in the the front and riveted (?) in the back. How do I remove it to get at the plugs?
#177
99 TL, 06 E350
Thats correct, a stripe of anti-sieze is a very good way to apply it down one side
I dont suggest bare fingers with this stuff, as anyone who has touched it will know why.
with the small tube of it, no prob to dab some, somehow, onto the plug
the distribution will take care of itself
does not need to be wrapped around perfectly or at all,,as long as a little is on the threads the job is done
I dont suggest bare fingers with this stuff, as anyone who has touched it will know why.
with the small tube of it, no prob to dab some, somehow, onto the plug
the distribution will take care of itself
does not need to be wrapped around perfectly or at all,,as long as a little is on the threads the job is done
#178
I wouldn't think that would help very much but I'd like to hear what the professional auto techs think.
#179
because someone changed them around 80,000 miles, now he has 138
octane is an imaginary number - additives are used to `boost octane` = delay the fuels desire to ignite from compressed molecules temp increase,,before top dead center of the piston
carbon buildup causes pinging and poor running- its real,,
as proven by ziner pics of heads removed (the cars not theirs) and severe carbon on the piston tops
octane is an imaginary number - additives are used to `boost octane` = delay the fuels desire to ignite from compressed molecules temp increase,,before top dead center of the piston
carbon buildup causes pinging and poor running- its real,,
as proven by ziner pics of heads removed (the cars not theirs) and severe carbon on the piston tops
What I was saying earlier is that originally, the octane rating of a fuel was based on the percentage of octane in the refined blend, from 0 to 100. As you have alluded to, today's fuels are now more sophisticated blends of natural hydrocarbons and synthetic additives some of which vary the octane rating. All the details are here in case anyone is interested.
The following users liked this post:
totaledTL (11-20-2011)
#180
Drifting
Larry- You seem pretty versed on fuels. What's your take on fuel octane ratings, i. e. reg. (87) & premium grades, & their respective use in a typical modern auto?
#181
I would NOT use motor oil on the plug threads
you do not want to lubricate them, oil might allow them to loosen--that would be very bad,
any excess can drip directly onto the piston and flash fry itself on there or backsplash onto the new plug tip and foul it = requires seafoam
the intent is to provide a material that will stay in place with high heat,
provide a barrier between the metals, and ease installion
they make this special stuff for a reason, and its not just marketing,
spend the few loons for a tube- that 1-2 oz tube will do more cars than you ever change plugs on in 1 lifetime
Why didnt it come on the stock plugs? probably because they dont care how much a pita
the replacement job is 7 years from then,,
a machine inserts and tightens all the plugs to spec torque
and it would have cost a fraction of a cent per plug, plus another machine to apply it....or they could not do it and save all that money over millions of plugs
I meant octane isnt what most people think. not imaginary it is a real measure of something
The TL is made for 94 and will run on 91,,thats why it says minimum 91 octane
At the fuel shipping plant, additives are put into the lower octane fuel to boost its detonation resistance,,starts as 87,,,some booster makes it 89, more and its 91, more and now you get 94,,the highest normally available at regular gas stations in the usa
you do not want to lubricate them, oil might allow them to loosen--that would be very bad,
any excess can drip directly onto the piston and flash fry itself on there or backsplash onto the new plug tip and foul it = requires seafoam
the intent is to provide a material that will stay in place with high heat,
provide a barrier between the metals, and ease installion
they make this special stuff for a reason, and its not just marketing,
spend the few loons for a tube- that 1-2 oz tube will do more cars than you ever change plugs on in 1 lifetime
Why didnt it come on the stock plugs? probably because they dont care how much a pita
the replacement job is 7 years from then,,
a machine inserts and tightens all the plugs to spec torque
and it would have cost a fraction of a cent per plug, plus another machine to apply it....or they could not do it and save all that money over millions of plugs
I meant octane isnt what most people think. not imaginary it is a real measure of something
The TL is made for 94 and will run on 91,,thats why it says minimum 91 octane
At the fuel shipping plant, additives are put into the lower octane fuel to boost its detonation resistance,,starts as 87,,,some booster makes it 89, more and its 91, more and now you get 94,,the highest normally available at regular gas stations in the usa
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 11-20-2011 at 07:06 PM.
#182
So the bottom line is that higher octane rated fuels do not contain more energy or produce more power, they can just be used in higher compression ratio engines without premature detonation. So the old rule of thumb is to use the lowest octane rating fuel (= cheapest) that your engine will run on without knocking.
Modern cars including our TLs have computer controlled engines which can vary such things as fuel air ratio and ignition timing and thus can trade off octane rating vs other variables to a small extent. That's why Acura recommends 91 octane but says the car will run on 89 albeit with somewhat lower performance. I can't say I understand exactly what they are varying but that should at least give you a basic understanding of what's involved.
#183
Maybe my hands are bigger than everyone else's, but I can't get them into the space to change the rear plugs. I've changed the front, but the hex wrench wont even budge the rear plugs. Also, are there any wire holders (like the front) for the ignition coils? It'd be helpful to know before trying to get into that space.
Why in the world did acura put that bar in there without the ability to remove it? It's bolted on the side, but the back mount looks like it is riveted. Is there no way to remove this bar?
#184
Maybe my hands are bigger than everyone else's, but I can't get them into the space to change the rear plugs. I've changed the front, but the hex wrench wont even budge the rear plugs. Also, are there any wire holders (like the front) for the ignition coils? It'd be helpful to know before trying to get into that space.
Why in the world did acura put that bar in there without the ability to remove it? It's bolted on the side, but the back mount looks like it is riveted. Is there no way to remove this bar?
Why in the world did acura put that bar in there without the ability to remove it? It's bolted on the side, but the back mount looks like it is riveted. Is there no way to remove this bar?
It is possible my friend...then again I dont have a type-s so idk if its different under the hood. Hope that helps!
#186
99 TL, 06 E350
The only thng that concerns me about doing this work is what if the socket used in tightening/lossing the sparkplug doesn't come off? I haven't done it yet due to this.
Like you tighten the sparkplug and then when you bring up the socket. But it stays in there?
Like you tighten the sparkplug and then when you bring up the socket. But it stays in there?
#187
It just takes a little wiggling & it'll come off the plug
#188
Just use a spark plug socket and don't over tighten; you'll be fine.
#190
B A N N E D
I did my sparkplugs to i got the NGK V Power they were like 2.50 each 15.00 total. the stock plugs that we took out look exactly like the ones you just changed had a R on them.
#191
Three Wheelin'
From my experience i recommend he ngk laser platinum. The iridium IX come pre-gapped to 0.44" which is not the correct gap size right? And Iridium plugs should NOT be gapped. The laser plats can be gapped and are just as good performance wise but may not last as long.
#192
Hey so i actually changed my spark plugs today....there are wire holders in the back the same as the front. There are two 10mm bolts attached to the engine and one 12mm bolt on the side...in any case...this is not really necessary to remove. You can unplug the coil packs from the wires to remove just the coil pack. The spark located leftmost is probably the hardest but you just have to put ur hand in the back with ur wrench. The bar was kinda in the way for me but i was able to get around it.
It is possible my friend...then again I dont have a type-s so idk if its different under the hood. Hope that helps!
It is possible my friend...then again I dont have a type-s so idk if its different under the hood. Hope that helps!
So I went at it again. I was able to get the rear driver plug. But when I got to the middle and passenger plugs, the wires wont come out/off of the plastic wire holder. Is there a trick to open the plastic wire holder? I didn't want to break the wires by forcing the plastic holder open.
BTW- I got a longer torque wrench and man is that so much easier to use than a small wrench.
As it stands with 4 of the 6 plugs changed after seafoaming the car, I'm getting about 23 miles per gallon nowadays (up from about 14-15 mpg). I should have done this years ago.
#193
So I went at it again. I was able to get the rear driver plug. But when I got to the middle and passenger plugs, the wires wont come out/off of the plastic wire holder. Is there a trick to open the plastic wire holder? I didn't want to break the wires by forcing the plastic holder open.
BTW- I got a longer torque wrench and man is that so much easier to use than a small wrench.
As it stands with 4 of the 6 plugs changed after seafoaming the car, I'm getting about 23 miles per gallon nowadays (up from about 14-15 mpg). I should have done this years ago.
BTW- I got a longer torque wrench and man is that so much easier to use than a small wrench.
As it stands with 4 of the 6 plugs changed after seafoaming the car, I'm getting about 23 miles per gallon nowadays (up from about 14-15 mpg). I should have done this years ago.
Good luck.
#196
The typical gap for a new plug should be be 0.039" - 0.043" (1.0 - 1.1mm) , the service limit being 0.051" (1.3mm). Once the electrode gap reaches 0.051", its time for new ones.
Last edited by soria; 12-24-2011 at 03:34 PM.
The following users liked this post:
BLADE RUNNER (01-28-2013)
The following users liked this post:
01tl4tl (12-26-2011)