AT Solenoid Screen Cleaning
07-25-2017, 08:56 AM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
AT Solenoid Screen Cleaning
In an effort to get more miles out of my transmission before its death, I'm going to clean the screens on the solenoids. The transmission shifts fine now but I've gotten a 1-2 second shudder a couple of times going up a hill at between 30-35 miles per hour.
I've watched a couple of videos on the cleaning and believe it should be fairly straightforward. The question I have is, are there gaskets that need to be replaced on the solenoids after removal? The videos don't show or talk about any gaskets, (other than the internal rubber one with the screen embedded in it) but looking at the diagrams for the parts, there appears to be gaskets. I'm also replacing the external AT filter, which has never been changed in 198,000 miles. Thanks,
I've watched a couple of videos on the cleaning and believe it should be fairly straightforward. The question I have is, are there gaskets that need to be replaced on the solenoids after removal? The videos don't show or talk about any gaskets, (other than the internal rubber one with the screen embedded in it) but looking at the diagrams for the parts, there appears to be gaskets. I'm also replacing the external AT filter, which has never been changed in 198,000 miles. Thanks,
08-04-2017, 08:35 PM
#3
Pro
You can almost always reuse the original gaskets. Of the rare time the gasket is bad enough or has a rip in it then buying one from a honda dealer is easy and cheap.
Just beware if your filters are clogged then the damage is already done and your running on borrowed time.
Just beware if your filters are clogged then the damage is already done and your running on borrowed time.
08-05-2017, 10:42 AM
#4
Drifting
OP, I would recommend that you replace the gaskets since you are having an issue with the trans already. Specifically the 0-ring type of gaskets because if there's a defective O-ring you may never know by looking at it if it's not obvious. It's very important that each gear's oil passage is fully seal so the solenoids and clutches receive full ATF pressure and/or flow. Any lost in pressure and/or flow will cause shifting issues.
08-08-2017, 12:27 AM
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Checked the three screens in the top solenoid and the two screens (one in the solenoid, one in the AT body) in the lower AT solenoid. All screens, clean as a whistle. I reused the gasket in the upper solenoid, I had a new one, but the old one was just fine. I also changed the AT filter, or at least tried to change it. There was NO way that top bolt was coming out so I had to take it to the dealer and had them change it. Cost me $120 but they did replace the filter with the one I had purchased online. Will drop 3 qts and put in 3 new qts in the transmission this weekend.
Results of all the work - I still have the shudder in 3rd gear at about 30 miles per hour. I do believe the trans is on its last legs, so I'm looking to have the transmission rebuilt by a local shop. There doesn't appear to be a good mechanic close, in the east bay, to put in the AV6 tranny. I'm not even sure at this point in the cars life if that makes sense. I would first have to find a good AV6. The best rebuilt price I've gotten is $3200 & 2 yr warranty. Acura wants $4800 with a 3 year warranty. I figure if I can get 2-3 years out of a rebuilt then my TLS should be just about finished at somewhere around 230-240K. After that more major maintenance in new timing belt, etc. so dollars and cents it makes sense to nurse it along without major $'s being put into it.
It's been a fantastic car, still looks good, inside & out, drives great, engine still is fantastic. I don't now or ever have, driven it hard, it just simply works and gets me to work. Plus I don't want to really go out and spend $40K on a new car, so I'm nursing this one for 2-3 years before the inevitable purchase.
Results of all the work - I still have the shudder in 3rd gear at about 30 miles per hour. I do believe the trans is on its last legs, so I'm looking to have the transmission rebuilt by a local shop. There doesn't appear to be a good mechanic close, in the east bay, to put in the AV6 tranny. I'm not even sure at this point in the cars life if that makes sense. I would first have to find a good AV6. The best rebuilt price I've gotten is $3200 & 2 yr warranty. Acura wants $4800 with a 3 year warranty. I figure if I can get 2-3 years out of a rebuilt then my TLS should be just about finished at somewhere around 230-240K. After that more major maintenance in new timing belt, etc. so dollars and cents it makes sense to nurse it along without major $'s being put into it.
It's been a fantastic car, still looks good, inside & out, drives great, engine still is fantastic. I don't now or ever have, driven it hard, it just simply works and gets me to work. Plus I don't want to really go out and spend $40K on a new car, so I'm nursing this one for 2-3 years before the inevitable purchase.
08-08-2017, 12:56 AM
#6
Drifting
Specifically what gears are the trans shuddering, and are there any flairs-what gear?
What condition/color is the ATF? Does the ATF smell burnt? How many quarts have been changed so far?
What condition/color is the ATF? Does the ATF smell burnt? How many quarts have been changed so far?
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08-08-2017, 07:50 AM
#8
Burning Brakes
If, as you state, all screens were found to be clear, and a 4X drain and re-fill did not correct or eliminate the "shudder", chances are, the clutches are worn beyond their service limit, and a re-build or replacement AV6 is in order. How many drain and re-fills have you done? Honda transmission fluid contains a high concentration of friction modifiers, which are essential to proper clutch engagement.
08-08-2017, 05:06 PM
#9
Checked the three screens in the top solenoid and the two screens (one in the solenoid, one in the AT body) in the lower AT solenoid. All screens, clean as a whistle. I reused the gasket in the upper solenoid, I had a new one, but the old one was just fine. I also changed the AT filter, or at least tried to change it. There was NO way that top bolt was coming out so I had to take it to the dealer and had them change it. Cost me $120 but they did replace the filter with the one I had purchased online. Will drop 3 qts and put in 3 new qts in the transmission this weekend.
Results of all the work - I still have the shudder in 3rd gear at about 30 miles per hour. I do believe the trans is on its last legs, so I'm looking to have the transmission rebuilt by a local shop. There doesn't appear to be a good mechanic close, in the east bay, to put in the AV6 tranny. I'm not even sure at this point in the cars life if that makes sense. I would first have to find a good AV6. The best rebuilt price I've gotten is $3200 & 2 yr warranty. Acura wants $4800 with a 3 year warranty. I figure if I can get 2-3 years out of a rebuilt then my TLS should be just about finished at somewhere around 230-240K. After that more major maintenance in new timing belt, etc. so dollars and cents it makes sense to nurse it along without major $'s being put into it.
It's been a fantastic car, still looks good, inside & out, drives great, engine still is fantastic. I don't now or ever have, driven it hard, it just simply works and gets me to work. Plus I don't want to really go out and spend $40K on a new car, so I'm nursing this one for 2-3 years before the inevitable purchase.
Results of all the work - I still have the shudder in 3rd gear at about 30 miles per hour. I do believe the trans is on its last legs, so I'm looking to have the transmission rebuilt by a local shop. There doesn't appear to be a good mechanic close, in the east bay, to put in the AV6 tranny. I'm not even sure at this point in the cars life if that makes sense. I would first have to find a good AV6. The best rebuilt price I've gotten is $3200 & 2 yr warranty. Acura wants $4800 with a 3 year warranty. I figure if I can get 2-3 years out of a rebuilt then my TLS should be just about finished at somewhere around 230-240K. After that more major maintenance in new timing belt, etc. so dollars and cents it makes sense to nurse it along without major $'s being put into it.
It's been a fantastic car, still looks good, inside & out, drives great, engine still is fantastic. I don't now or ever have, driven it hard, it just simply works and gets me to work. Plus I don't want to really go out and spend $40K on a new car, so I'm nursing this one for 2-3 years before the inevitable purchase.
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...n-swap-905115/
Somewhere in the middle of that thread they posted the PDF with pics of the install. Helps alot for any shop that hasn't done the AV6 into a TL/CL.
08-09-2017, 01:06 AM
#10
Intermediate
Thread Starter
The stutter happens in 3rd gear, about 25-30 mph. I've drained 3 qts and replaced 3 qts (DW-1) annually for the last 6 or 7 years. The 3x3 drain/fill was done the prior year. The fluid is always properly red, not a whiff of burnt or improper smell. I really do take care of the car, drive sanely, don't beat or race it. Two years ago the car was at the Acura dealer for the airbag recall, try as they might they couldn't find anything wrong with my car, they just said "it is a very well maintained car, well done." But I fear my tranny is dying.
Thanks for the site for AV6, but I asked a couple of shops, both said they wouldn't want to swap a transmission from an accord into my TL. But that is a small sample size for sure.
Thanks for the site for AV6, but I asked a couple of shops, both said they wouldn't want to swap a transmission from an accord into my TL. But that is a small sample size for sure.
08-09-2017, 07:04 AM
#11
Burning Brakes
The stutter happens in 3rd gear, about 25-30 mph. I've drained 3 qts and replaced 3 qts (DW-1) annually for the last 6 or 7 years. The 3x3 drain/fill was done the prior year. The fluid is always properly red, not a whiff of burnt or improper smell. I really do take care of the car, drive sanely, don't beat or race it. Two years ago the car was at the Acura dealer for the airbag recall, try as they might they couldn't find anything wrong with my car, they just said "it is a very well maintained car, well done." But I fear my tranny is dying.
Thanks for the site for AV6, but I asked a couple of shops, both said they wouldn't want to swap a transmission from an accord into my TL. But that is a small sample size for sure.
Thanks for the site for AV6, but I asked a couple of shops, both said they wouldn't want to swap a transmission from an accord into my TL. But that is a small sample size for sure.
08-09-2017, 01:16 PM
#12
Drifting
Teekaa,
I wouldn't give up on the trans just yet. You should try replacing the following solenoids.
1. Shift C.
2. 3rd Clutch Pressure Switch.
3. 4th Clutch Pressure Switch.
$150
Your ATF seems good but if it's questionable then do the 100% ATF change.
I wouldn't give up on the trans just yet. You should try replacing the following solenoids.
1. Shift C.
2. 3rd Clutch Pressure Switch.
3. 4th Clutch Pressure Switch.
$150
Your ATF seems good but if it's questionable then do the 100% ATF change.
08-10-2017, 11:09 AM
#14
Drifting
I'll try the shift C, 3rd & 4th switches at this point. Next possibly the rebuild. Thanks all; The best rebuilt price I've gotten is $3200 & 2 yr warranty. Acura wants $4800 with a 3 year warranty. I figure if I can get 2-3 years out of a rebuilt then my TLS should be just about finished at somewhere around 230-240K.
If you have to rebuild PM me and I'll reply with their contact info.
Last edited by 01acls; 08-10-2017 at 11:20 AM.
08-15-2017, 12:12 AM
#17
Drifting
DoesDoes it studder in D4? If not then that's a torque convert or a TC valve sticking.
08-15-2017, 07:19 AM
#18
Burning Brakes
Hey TeeKaa, FWIW: (My "SHUDDER") issue: At 222,896 miles, 8/23/2016, my 2003 TLS experienced a "shudder" during up-shift into third gear while driving uphill. Review of similar problems on this, and other sites, revealed the recommendation of adding NAPA product, (Instant shudder fix, part # 765-2969, cost: $6.75). I added this product, ( A 2 oz. tube of licquid), which immediately corrected the "shudder". Concerned about using an additive, not recommended by Acura, I sent an oil sample to Blackstone Labs, for analysis, advising Blackstone Labs of the addition of the "instant shudder fix product". Blackstone Labs reported back, that the NAPA product I used, is nothing more than a Friction Modifier, and will not do any harm to my transmission. Although no further "Shudder" issue surfaced after adding the "instant shudder fix" product, i was still concerned about having "it" in my transmission. At 229,759 miles, on 4/26/2017, I performed the Fourth of Four drain and refills, to insure that the transmission contained only Honda fluid, and no additional additive. Currently at 231,049 miles, and have experienced no further issues. Transmission shifts flawlessly in both conventional drive, and sport mode.( KOW ) NOTE: I'm not recommending anyone use anything but DW1, I'm only relating my experience. Also, I examined all solenoid screens, and all were found to be free of any contamination.
08-17-2017, 12:42 AM
#19
Intermediate
Thread Starter
01acls - The stutters are mostly in 3rd gear, just after shifting into 3rd. Speed about 25-30 mph. Every once in a while it may stutter in 4th gear, just after entering 4th. All of this is happening with mild acceleration. I will try putting it in D4 tomorrow to test that theory.
I have also noticed that the 5th lock-up may not be locking. But it is so slight I may be fooling myself into thinking this is happening.
Frank - Perhaps as a last resort I may try this before I rebuild, but I'm like you, I'm fearful of anything other than DW1.
I have also noticed that the 5th lock-up may not be locking. But it is so slight I may be fooling myself into thinking this is happening.
Frank - Perhaps as a last resort I may try this before I rebuild, but I'm like you, I'm fearful of anything other than DW1.
08-17-2017, 02:20 AM
#20
Drifting
You shouldn't be afraid of experimenting since you've already call TOD in your head.
Try the following...
1. Get 1 gallon of Valvoline Maxlife Full Synthetic. Use it all. (Note: I did 2 gallons)
2. Buy 1 XADO Auto Trans 120. Add it to your trans fluid through the dip stick. Follow the manufacturer's instructions.
My trans was in a lot worse shape than yours... and now works almost like new.
Try the following...
1. Get 1 gallon of Valvoline Maxlife Full Synthetic. Use it all. (Note: I did 2 gallons)
2. Buy 1 XADO Auto Trans 120. Add it to your trans fluid through the dip stick. Follow the manufacturer's instructions.
My trans was in a lot worse shape than yours... and now works almost like new.
08-17-2017, 07:43 AM
#22
Three Wheelin'
When you say stutters can you describe what you mean? My 2000 does the same thing on a 2-3 shift. The whole car basically shakes but it's only sometimes. At 210k and needing a new T-Belt soon if the transmission is finally on the way out, I am going to have part ways. 
08-17-2017, 09:22 AM
#23
Drifting
When you say stutters can you describe what you mean? My 2000 does the same thing on a 2-3 shift. The whole car basically shakes but it's only sometimes. At 210k and needing a new T-Belt soon if the transmission is finally on the way out, I am going to have part ways.
Ditto for you... Do a 100% ATF exchange. 1 XADO AT 120... $80 total... Good luck.
Lggy, The 120 comes in a syringe so it's made to be injected through the dip stick tube. It only just takes seconds to apply vs removing and installing the filler bolt. Also probably better to disperse it into the ATF vs onto simi wet trans parts.
Last edited by 01acls; 08-17-2017 at 09:27 AM.