All winter every time I hit the brakes my steering wheel shakes. Wrapped rotors are normally the cause but I don't have a garage so I've been waiting for warm weather to make a change.

Asked here a few weeks ago for what people liked for front rotors.

I went with EBC slotted. Hawk HPS for pads. I've used these pads before and always liked them. I tried to make a set fade on a old car and couldn't. To finish it off so I wouldn't have to worry about them again where dual piston calibers from a Legend.

Work done and brakes bedded. No more vibration and better braking. Only took a few hours to do.

 

Congrats men! but why no painting the brackets?

 

Time

Painted the calipers before I put them on the car. Since I was using new calipers I could still drive my car while I painted them. Painting the brackets meant I couldn't drive the car. Might go back to paint them when I have some time.

 

Duplicolor caliper paint will be dry before you need to remount the wheels!

Now that its all bedded in, go do the 2 ABS active stops from 45mph to stopped
If the pedal is better/firmer on 2nd test, there was air hiding in the abs system
It happens while the lines are open to install the new calipers.

Rebleed brakes, LF RF RR LR to get it out, usually goes to LF but do the whole brake line system to be certain
It wont hurt to push some extra new fluid thru now.

Note: brake fluid should be changed once a year, max 3 years between full flush of system

 

note for all- clean the rust off the hub- where rotor slides on, and a touch of high temp grease on its edge
Make sure its sits flat and tight to prevent imbalance.

 

01tl4tl Thanks didn't know about getting air in the ABS system. Will check that out and bleed the entire system if needed.

I flushed the entire system about a year and a half ago so I'm good there.

 

no you are not good on brake fluid! see above note re: replace all fluid once A YEAR
,
Its likely you are going to go test the upper temp limits of the fluid and all the brake parts = start fresh and think about doing it again in 6 months when you settle down and drive normal again

you should have bled the entire system after caliper install, correct?
and in the stated special TL order?

did you prefill/prebleed the calipers as much as possible?

The new slowing power is a lot of fun, and useful in many real-world dumb drivers surrounding you situations Enjoy!

If you don't have one already, the Cusco lower frame crossbar- under 100$ last I knew, will make it a different car = one you can really enjoy in the corners and mountain back roads

 

What did this set up cost you?

 

Look in the special sub-section The Black Market Sponsored Sales area
That's our supporting vendors who are trusted and reliable
Excelerate has the ebc brakes, hawk pads are under 100.
You can get calipers at any parts place/store for about 60 bucks each, they are happy to get TL calipers back as cores as there is a much larger sales market for them!

I like to match the pad and rotor maker when possible, EBC makes several with red or yellow being the preferred street fun type pad
RacingBrake from mrheeltoe ET300 or ET500 best for street
Both makers offer track day pads too

A set of SS brake lines at $100-125 will amaze you with the improved fluid force applied to the new dual piston caliper

For those considering the caliper upgrade, Note the increased distribution of force with 2 pistons = more contact in the center and edges of the pad, plus the outer section of caliper has a middle `finger` to better spread forces across that pad.

the Vendor Directory link- near the sign out button- top right of pages- will take you to excelerate and mrheeltoe ck them out, always have a special deal for ziners!

 

Got some rain today so I did a some stops that activated the ABS system. Pedal felt much better on the second stop.

Any special about bleeding them to get the air out of the ABS system beside the order.

Thanks

 

just bleed them like normal in the special order LF RF RR LR (from drivers seated viewpoint)
Its no longer trapped in the abs= its in the regular calipers

probably find a little air in the LF only, but do all to be safe
DOT4 fluid only!

 

Hi, I am looking at doing a similar upgrade.
Can you provide me with
the calipers part numbers and what brand of caliper you are using, do you also mount them left caliper on right side
and right caliper mounted on the left side.
thanks for your help. Sterling

 

Hi Sterling, everything you need is in the thread Legend Calipers
you use 95 legend LS-C (coupe) calipers from a few remanufactures
those specific car model ones get the right sized pistons, there are several choices~
naked is bare caliper which is all you need
Some buy the semi loaded caliper to get a hardware kit and throw the new brackets away, they don't fit
Uses TL rotors, caliper brackets and brake pads
Only the calipers are from a Legend,,
there are slight differences in pads so don't try it- use TL parts for everything else in the system

You do swap the calipers left to right - has a big letter stamped on each

SS brake lines make a nice contribution to overall braking feel and action ~$100-125 for a full set of lines

there are a few main choices on rotors and pads based on how you want to brake, how hard, how often etc. Each person loves their choice!
Mine is RacingBrake 1 piece slotted rotors with ET500 pads by same maker
others like EBC and the next will say someone else has the trick technology.
Have a good read!

 

so while we're on the topic of brakes, here's a question for you.

My front rotors are warped and my rear pads are at 2mm (I think 3-4 in the front). So I'll need to have a major brake job done soon; before Nov as that's when I need to have it inspected.

So. I have plans on some major powah upgrades in the future. With the need to accelerate comes the need to decelerate and typically big, powerful cars have big, powerful rotors to handle the braking chores.

I'm still a bit new to cars and I'm trying to learn as much as I can, the question is, is it possible to go oversize on the brake hardware with larger rims?

If so I wonder if I should go cheap on the replacement rotors and then buy nice big ones in the future with new hardware or if I should stick with the OE sizing and buy nice ones now. Thoughts?

 

its a lot of work and dollars to go with a `big brake kit` and the rims to fit them inside,
Easy to get great rotors and pads that fit the TL with the Legend 2 piston calipers
Unless you track day the car every week, that's plenty of stopping power

100$ rotors and pads will slow and stop the car,,,for now
$300 rotors and pads will stop the car about 80 feet sooner!
your suspension also effects stopping distance and brake power as weight transfers forward under braking

 

They make big brake kits but as 01tl4tl said they are really costly.

I would go with good rotors and pads unless you have a need for the big brakes type setup. Just throwing on cheap rotors will likely lead to another set of wrapped rotors.