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His 3-4-5 readings are at 0 psi when I believe they should all be 130+ psi. There is a serious hydraulic issue still somewhere on or associating with the mainshaft/countershaft since those clutch packs are located on them.
Changing out a few sensors will not solve the hydraulic problem he is having.
His 3-4-5 readings are at 0 psi when I believe they should all be 130+ psi. There is a serious hydraulic issue still somewhere on or associating with the mainshaft/countershaft since those clutch packs are located on them.
Changing out a few sensors will not solve the hydraulic problem he is having.
His 0 PSI readings are suppose to be at 0 PSI. He's reading them at he wrong time.
The fact that he's saying the car shift through all 5 gears tells me that he has pressure, may not be full pressure but, some pressure. So 0 PSI is not right.
If he really didn't have 3 out of 5 gears without pressure, the car wouldn't drive.
Very true I was wondering the same thing but when I do that test to my trans I get readings in the 130+ range where his are 0. So either hes testing wrong which I doubt because he seems like he know what hes doing or there are hidden problems. We will wait and see what his response is.
Those most recent pressure tests were all taken front wheels on jack stands. 2000 rpm TCS off. I'm confident of correct pressure tap locations now vs my first attempts at reading pressures.
At idle my line pressure and taps that gave me a reading all were 132 psi with rise to 138-140 at 2000 psi.
Need to test drive wheels on ground with gauge hooked up again. Haven't had chance. This weekend I hope.
No codes, shifts through all gears normally just rpm flair and harsh engagement at each shift.
I'm thinking that with pump pressure rise due to rpm rise to 3,500- 4,500 during road conditions I'm picking up those upper gears at least partially
because tachometer falls appropriately after shift and gear remains engaged in 3rd, 4th and 5th. Until the next shift.
I agree that solenoids need a closer look.
In fact, because I have a recent rebuild performing well in my 2000 ody, I swapped CPC solenoid dual linear and Shift Solenoid C between vehicles.
This induced a 1-2 slide-bump shift in my ody and no real change in the TL. Screens clear, orings and gaskets new. I swapped just Shift C back to original vehicle first. Same shift qualities as described. Then I swapped dual linear back to its home on the TL and my ody shifts normal again.
I had already ordered the sins kit from Amazon that includes CPC A/B & C, Shift Solenoids A, B, C & TCC. Both pressure switches too, but I already have new oem pressure switches at 3 & 4 positions. They just arrived tonight.
I've been reading over at trnw.net (joined for a month). Great info.
I learned there was a sealing ring problem for quite a while from a manufacturing defect that left a thin ridge of "over pour" ringing the seals that would prevent a flush interface between seal and pressure regulator stator arm bore surface. In fact, this lead to wear marks, scoring and pressure loss. 4 & 5 packs live on this shaft. These seals were in tons of kits.
I rember seeing different looking seals than my alto kit that I used in my ody.
Hydraulics on mainshaft need another examination. If electronics don't improve it.
Thanks everyone for following and offering suggestions.
Due to the nature of this transmission's failure. (Mainshaft break at 5th pack) I've ordered the parts listed at end of this post and will attempt to replace via end cover only in vehicle.
The remainder of the sheared mainshaft would have put quite a bit of lateral forces on the 4 & 5 ATF feed tubes in end cover.
I remember now the 5th feed guide being very difficult to separate from the feed pipe to change that ORing. Very tough to separate on TL m7wa compared to my 2000 Ody's b7ta guide and pipe. The way 4th feed pipe is incorporated and pressurized it looks to be dependent on 5th feed guide and B pipe Orings being stable and intact with good seal.
May be wishful thinking. But trying to think what those forces would do with shaft breaking under load. What would still be moving and what is close or in path or making contact at that moment of failure.
I still can't figure why 5th pack was smoked in this m7wa when 3rd is the troublemaker supposedly and it looked fine.
5th had to have had a hydraulic feed problem or cross-leak (4th maybe?) well before the shaft broke. 5th was baked into the drum with zero friction materials and steels half eaten.
As stated in previous post at second take down and opening case after rebuild, 5th was showing similar pattern wear and on its way to similar failure.
5th pressure is not there. It would be nice to see the end cover fix take care of it. (And 4th pressure).
My rationale anyways and the following end cover parts are only $17 so no biggie.
The feed pipes being bent or not seated properly could very well explain why there is little to no pressure as it cannot build up inside the drum. How does 3rd get its pressure? It looks like a different pipe than the 4/5 drum uses. You might want to check that one out too.
Road Test 3, 4, 5 yields pressures but front up on jack stands didn't. Grade Logic? IDK.
Had a few minutes tonight to test 3,4, & 5 taps. Same lousy shift characteristics but I get a pressure reading with wheels on the road. Why? IDK. Grade logic? Read something about always testing honda/acura off the lift and on the road.
3rd Tap showed a moderate paced pressure rise to about 45 then a quicker rise from 45 to 95. Held gear fine but heavy throttle in third would only yield a pressure under 100.
4th Tap 138 held well.
5th Tap 95 in D5. D5 the gauge also had a slow response to heavy throttle while in gear and would not rise over 100. Reverse (also measured at 5th tap) showed 95 at idle with brake applied. With light throttle in Reverse the pressure gauge would jump quick to 138.
Didn't have time to get to 1st hold yet.
Not clear on significance of this yet but wanted to get it posted.
I'm in awe. Where were you guys last winter when I needed you?
Finding this thread was like finding "this old house" after I'd dragged my crappy old handyman special house out from under the wrecking ball(in 1979). I'm astonished that someone else is doing this kind of thing. For fun.
I see you already got the tip on how to check shaft bushing play. I got that one from the ATRA manual.
I got nothing else for you but good thoughts.
Went one more round on the M7WA with new feed tubes and guides.
VERY IMPORTANT...When the manual says (in bold) _DON'T USE AN AIR GUN ON SHAFT NUTS...I suggest following the stated instructions the first time, and EVERY time you turn them down on your shaft stack-up. Hand Torque ONLY!
I had a 4th gear thrust failure on my initial test drive just minutes in. I cursed parked it and walked away. Here's what that looks like.
After a few weeks summoning my courage, I found a 2006 BAYA 150,000 for $500. More miles and dollars than I wanted but best I could find in months and only an hour away. What'd I do? Why, I tore it apart and rebuilt it of course. I am a sucker for punishment.
BAYA Build:
Transtar master kit gpx frictions steels
Superior kit Superior STL-HO5-388
Sonnax torque converter check valve 98892-06K
New Torque converter
Filters x 2
Test Drive BAYA
Code: P0740
Problem: Mechanically Stuck linears. AB dual linear B only stuck. Single linear C stuck. Springs not returning.
FINAL FIX: Cleaned linears and DONE.
Got my hat handed to me and humbled by this beast but what a JOY to drive. SO WORTH IT.
I had already cleaned the IACV and intake but after the rebuild it was hanging up again and showed up as the hunting idle after warming up to operating temp. Had me stressing. Pulled intake with throttle body on, flipped and removed IAVC. This time I drilled and tapped out the penta shaped screws and notched them with hack saw for straight slot screw driver. Turning the IAVC shaft was very sluggish at the bearing but cleared right out after solvent, wd40 and compressed air. Idle was instantly better and back to normal.
Thanks everyone for the input and suggestions. Really great community.
I wish my 15" work commute was a little longer now!
Can anyone offer help finding the "line pressure port" on my trans below? The manual shows this pic but offers no orientation. Is it accessed from underneath?
[QUOTE=gazzman;15521911]Happy ending at last
Finally have a daily driver with fresh rebuild.
Went one more round on the M7WA with new feed tubes and guides.
Ok stop, look at the big gear on your oil pump, that inner groove is probably for oil, pretty sure you have it upside down, your trans looks a lot like my 2002 odyssey
Originally Posted by gazzman
Sooo...after a few days of other stuff, finally got a couple answers.
Pump bound and unable to turn drive gear by hand at teardown. Valve body at torque prohibited free movement. Though micrometer said parts were at spec, once assembled and torqued, could not move drive gear at all, much less get a feeler between top of drive gear and VB. Had to sand (150, 220) and polish (400, 1,000) a strong .001" off top of drive gear to get to torque and still remove .002" feeler with drag.
it won't let me delete my last post for some reason, I don't think you can install the gear backwards, it hasa race to lock itself in, so never mind. sorry
31,000 on my AV6 BAYA rebuild so far, and I thought it was over today, in spectacular fashion. Sudden loss of all gears.
No slips or flares since rebuild.
2 drain and fills so far.
Expecting the worst, I was towed home and put it in the garage. I was relieved to have found the upper B solenoid spot weld had failed allowing it to raise and empty fluid quickly. This was a B solenoid from a
n. Luckily I had my old solenoids around and swapped an old honda one back in. Refilled with DW-1 after wiping a small amount of fines off magnet in drain plug.
Good as new.
40K on BAYA aftermarket B solenoid under throttle body and above starter. Spot weld failure (white square). Yellow circle amount of lift caused by fluid pressure.
Side note: my 2000 ody rebuild hit 309K and is still going. My kid probably wishes it would die.
05-20-2015, 09:10 AM
