DIY replacing front motor mount?
02-15-2006, 08:48 AM
#1
'99 Acura 3.2TL
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DIY replacing front motor mount?
my front motor mount has to be replaced and i was wondering if someone could write-up a short DIY... cuz the dealer wants like 500$ to replace it (including the part)...
thanks
thanks
02-15-2006, 12:42 PM
#2
NiGhT rIdEr
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go to a local mechanic, thats what i did.......
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...92#post1330692
Originally Posted by bkzjimmy
today i was quoted by my mechanic for $255 to change my front(34) and right(7) motor mounts.
parts-- front $115 and right $60
labor--$80
sound fair????
parts-- front $115 and right $60
labor--$80
sound fair????
02-15-2006, 10:06 PM
#6
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Do it yourself? Umm i would drive it to the shop and get it fixed....i spent $300 to replace 3 of mine at midas. Its a bitch to get into and you need to have the actual transmission mounted while its lifted...sounds like a bitch
02-16-2006, 10:40 AM
#7
$300 for 3 mounts is a good deal. the parts alone would cost half of that. the front and side mounts are easy to do. Raise the engine just enough to release the weight on these mounts and you can remove them. you will need to remove the radiator hoses to take out the front mount.
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02-17-2006, 02:37 PM
#9
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the front is very easy. just remove a few bolts, un hook the vacum tube, place a jack under teh engine and lift a little and remove
02-18-2006, 03:26 PM
#11
Boomer SOONER
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ususally if one goes out, the others are soon to follow. I would think it would be best to replace all 3 at once because if one isnt doing its job properly, it will place extra stress on the others and cause them to fail early. my 
A local shop quoted me almost $500 to replace all 3 including parts. They said the back one was the only hard one and I could do the front and side myself to save money. Still the back one was going to cost about $200 including the mount. So Ill probalby do the front and side and have them do the back one to save money.
A local shop quoted me almost $500 to replace all 3 including parts. They said the back one was the only hard one and I could do the front and side myself to save money. Still the back one was going to cost about $200 including the mount. So Ill probalby do the front and side and have them do the back one to save money.
09-22-2012, 06:27 PM
#12
The rear mount is the hardest to replace and the only one that rarely cracks and needs to be replaced. I talked to a mechanic at Acura and they dont stock up on the rear mount as much as the front and side mounts!
09-27-2012, 08:13 PM
#14
try this ... mostly copied from other posts ...
TL Motor Mount Replacement DIY
Check these links first ...
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ht=mount+motor
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ht=mount+motor
SIDE: https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/diy-replace-side-engine-mount-%95-acura-tl-775581/
Front and Side Torque settings: 40 lbs/ft
Reminder, dont forget to remove your battery and the battery tray when doing this
or your transmission housing will bend the tray when you're lifting the engine
up. Good luck if you decide on doing this yourself.
1. Jack the front of the car up and place it on jack stands.
2. Pull all the little clips out of the plastic guard under the motor.
3. Put the jack under the motor just to take the weight off the mount.
4. Undo the bolts for the bracket connected to the motor
(2 underneath, 1 up top.)
5. Loosen the four bolts connecting the mount to the sub-frame.
(they all need long extensions.)
6. Undo the bolt on top of the mount.
7. Take the four bolts out.
8. Twist the mount inplace and lay it on its side.
9. Pull it out from the drivers side by holding the upper radiator hose
to the left.
It will barely squeeze out!
Voila!!
10. Repeat the steps to replace with new mount.
I suggest to attach the mounting bracket to the engine loosly to be able to
slide the top of the mount through the hole. That is a bitch, but VERY doable!
You will need:
- two floor jacks
- two jack stands
- a block of wood or two to distribute the weight of the engine on the jack
- 2 6-10 inch 3/8 extensions
- a strong 3/8 ratchet
- 17mm deep socket
- 14mm socket (possibly 14mm wrench too)
- 36" socket extension
- a blanket to lie on when doing the rear mount
- and lastly lots of patience (especially for the rear mount.)
For the Side Engine mount, slightly raise the engine so you can remove the
side mount.
NOTES:
1) When removing the side upper mount, you need to move the cruise control module
out for the way by removing the three mounting screws.
2) There is a plastic clip retaining a hydraulic line hidden underneath the mount.
You need to unclip that line or the mount will not come free. The plastic clip
needs to be removed and re-installed on the new mount.
3) For the front mount, you WILL need a universal joint and very long extensions
(36") for a socket set or you will not be able to remove the left rear frame
bolt as the exhaust manifold gets in the way. These bolts are VERY hard to
loosen and I recommend putting some kind of rust solvent on the bolt heads
before starting the removal. Also, remove the front exhaust manifold cover
to buy a little more room. Three bolts on the front and off it comes.
4) When putting it back together, lining up all the bolt holes is a bitch.
First, "hand start" ALL three bolts going into the block, making sure you have the
single mounting bolt through the engine bracket. It will be difficult to line up the
holes because you can't see the holes and you have to do it by feel. Once you have all
three started, tighten them up. Don't worry that the frame holes don't line up as you
can use a hammer or a pry bar to move the base around until they do. Once all seven
bolts are in, then put on and tighten the single large nut on the top of the mount.
It took about 4 hours to do both plus having to go to the store to by a U-joint.
TL Motor Mount Replacement DIY
Check these links first ...
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ht=mount+motor
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ht=mount+motor
SIDE: https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/diy-replace-side-engine-mount-%95-acura-tl-775581/
Front and Side Torque settings: 40 lbs/ft
Reminder, dont forget to remove your battery and the battery tray when doing this
or your transmission housing will bend the tray when you're lifting the engine
up. Good luck if you decide on doing this yourself.
1. Jack the front of the car up and place it on jack stands.
2. Pull all the little clips out of the plastic guard under the motor.
3. Put the jack under the motor just to take the weight off the mount.
4. Undo the bolts for the bracket connected to the motor
(2 underneath, 1 up top.)
5. Loosen the four bolts connecting the mount to the sub-frame.
(they all need long extensions.)
6. Undo the bolt on top of the mount.
7. Take the four bolts out.
8. Twist the mount inplace and lay it on its side.
9. Pull it out from the drivers side by holding the upper radiator hose
to the left.
It will barely squeeze out!
Voila!!
10. Repeat the steps to replace with new mount.
I suggest to attach the mounting bracket to the engine loosly to be able to
slide the top of the mount through the hole. That is a bitch, but VERY doable!
You will need:
- two floor jacks
- two jack stands
- a block of wood or two to distribute the weight of the engine on the jack
- 2 6-10 inch 3/8 extensions
- a strong 3/8 ratchet
- 17mm deep socket
- 14mm socket (possibly 14mm wrench too)
- 36" socket extension
- a blanket to lie on when doing the rear mount
- and lastly lots of patience (especially for the rear mount.)
For the Side Engine mount, slightly raise the engine so you can remove the
side mount.
NOTES:
1) When removing the side upper mount, you need to move the cruise control module
out for the way by removing the three mounting screws.
2) There is a plastic clip retaining a hydraulic line hidden underneath the mount.
You need to unclip that line or the mount will not come free. The plastic clip
needs to be removed and re-installed on the new mount.
3) For the front mount, you WILL need a universal joint and very long extensions
(36") for a socket set or you will not be able to remove the left rear frame
bolt as the exhaust manifold gets in the way. These bolts are VERY hard to
loosen and I recommend putting some kind of rust solvent on the bolt heads
before starting the removal. Also, remove the front exhaust manifold cover
to buy a little more room. Three bolts on the front and off it comes.
4) When putting it back together, lining up all the bolt holes is a bitch.
First, "hand start" ALL three bolts going into the block, making sure you have the
single mounting bolt through the engine bracket. It will be difficult to line up the
holes because you can't see the holes and you have to do it by feel. Once you have all
three started, tighten them up. Don't worry that the frame holes don't line up as you
can use a hammer or a pry bar to move the base around until they do. Once all seven
bolts are in, then put on and tighten the single large nut on the top of the mount.
It took about 4 hours to do both plus having to go to the store to by a U-joint.
03-08-2017, 09:11 PM
#15
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Quick question
i just ordered a front motorount for my 2007 Acura TL base w navigation. But the website stated that it was a non vacumm part? So how do I know if I ordered the right part? Everyone on the forums says to disconnect the vacumm hose when replacing the from motor mount but the website says non vacumm part?...I'm confused any response or help is much appreciated...thanks
03-08-2017, 09:21 PM
#16
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Motor mount help?
How do I know if my front motor mount has a vaccumm hose on it? Website that I ordered the mount from says no vacumm line on the front .Or mounts on 2007 Acura TL base w navigation...But people on the forums talk about disconnecting the vacumm line when replacing front motor mount...???
Confused any help or response is much appreciated...thanks
Confused any help or response is much appreciated...thanks
03-08-2017, 09:32 PM
#17
i just ordered a front motorount for my 2007 Acura TL base w navigation. But the website stated that it was a non vacumm part? So how do I know if I ordered the right part? Everyone on the forums says to disconnect the vacumm hose when replacing the from motor mount but the website says non vacumm part?...I'm confused any response or help is much appreciated...thanks
03-08-2017, 09:54 PM
#18
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ok cool...Didn't realize I posted in 2g forums...PS what would I use to cap the hose off?...Lol
03-09-2017, 10:40 AM
#19
http://pitstopusa.com/images/F141808057.jpg
Or you can just stick a bolt in there or something. It's a pretty thin air hose, so it shouldn't be a problem. And if you don't seal it correctly, you will know for sure because of the vacuum leak.
03-10-2017, 07:18 PM
#20
Front mount is very easy. Loosen the side and trans mounts so you can jack the engine up. It's a tight fit to get it out, but it will make it. Remove the heat shield over the headers. When you replace the mount, leave the top nut loose. Start the engine then shut it down, then torque the nut.
You will need long extensions. If you don't have a shitload of extensions go buy some.
You will need long extensions. If you don't have a shitload of extensions go buy some.
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