acuratl26

Hi all,

I have a 00 TL with about 148K miles on it, and it is running on a new transmission that was replaced about 13K miles back.

This afternoon, after I drove it for about 20 miles, I had it turned off for about 30 minutes. After than, when I tried to start it, it hesitated (took about thrice the amount of cranks to turn on). Then, when I put it in D5, it hesitated to move. Felt like all the pistons were not firing. After that, it was normal and I was able to drive it for 20 miles. Once I reached home, I turned off the engine, and waited for 30 seconds and turned it back on. It started ok, but MAINTENANCE REQD light started to flash.

I have a feeling it has to do with faulty spark plugs. Any thoughts on what could be wrong?

FYI - I just replaced the oil, power steering fluid and brake fluid about 800 miles ago. I also ran a 1/2 can of SeaFoam about 600 miles back.

Thanks in advance...

Skirmich

That sounds like the Fuel Pressure Regulator Issue....

01tl4tl

Mait Req is simply the oil change reminder light!
Its reset with the 2 trip buttons on the dash. It only measures miles since last reset, knows nothing about anything-- except 6500 miles, 7000 and 7500
The lights flashing at start up intensifies at 7000 and goes on solid at 7500 miles
My guess is a shop has been changing your oil?
Your actual miles till light may vary slightly- Im not an expert on those!
In general: mait req light flashes- time to think about an oil change

Did you seafoam the gas? at 2 oz per gal of fuel- most use 2 cans- 1 thru each of 2 half tanks = to give it longer- time and heat are seafoams friends- to do its best work for your dollars

You can seafoam the oil just before its next change, 1/2 can in oil and drive 15-30 minutes for a decent cleaning job.
Optional for dirty engines or 1st time cleaning is: install a new cheap filter first- to catch the amount of crud headed its way!
Then drive 100-200 miles/1 week, with drives over 30 minutes working the best.
Change oil and filter with oil warm from 15 minute freeway cruise

01tl4tl

stop by a parts store for a battery and charging system test and code reading- both are FREE
Any codes they find- report back here with the full code P0409 as an example
See our diy section https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...thread-706083/ for info on the FPR fuel pump/pressure relay (not certain of real name at this moment- thats why we have a diy!) problem where solder on the back of the connector board fails, or the relay itself fails
Common enough problem to think thats it, been several reported failures recently

Have a scroll down the threads in regular- and the problems sections
easy DIY job- see that thread list!

any other clues for us?

ErickUa5

Winter fuel and heat soak issue, anyone resolved this yet ?
I have the TSB where it claims its the regulator and ECU but when I had my TLp engine it never did that.
Lately I've been experimenting, Swapped out the MAP sensor from my old engine and its been perfect so far.

TLer trash

I read about a shop in one of the auto service trade publications that cured one of these a few months ago. They put a ton of time and effort into it, including the tsb with a regulator and pcm. I think they tried several other things as well, but what finally cured it was replacing the fuel rail with one from a similar year odyssey. Apparently there's something substantially different in the design or function, compared to a tl. The article didn't make it clear to me what the difference is, and I've never compared them side by side. I will try to get more information.
Some people here may recall that I dealt with this problem on my daughter's tl, but was able to cure it with an updated regulator, with no pcm.
I think there have been quite a few very similar driveability issues here that turned out not to be the exact symptoms of boiling fuel in the fuel rail that acura's tsb covers.

00TL-P3.2

Mine does the same thing with winter blend fuel. Fine if the car sits for an extended period of time. Massive misfires (feels like running on 2 cylinders) within the time it takes to stop in the grocery store on the way home from the office.

01acls

I've cure a 2000 TL of heatsoak that is listed on the TSB by changing the following parts.

Charcoal canister
Shut off valve
Main 02 sensor
Secondary 02 (optional)

ErickUa5

Interesting, But recently had an 00 Odyssey with the same issue. Couldn't experiment on that one sold it a while ago.

An 02 sensor wont do anything for a long crank time followed by misfires.
However the evap could be staying open. But I have no proof of anything yet to pinpoint the issue on my own.
So far the Map sensor has done the trick for me.

kihayes

Hello. I signed up today to find out replacing all plugs, wires, and coils on my 2000 TL. I just purchased a 2006 and gave this one to my daughter but its cutting out and giving some codes indicating 3 bad coils. Didn't know if I could purchase the whole "kit" or how to even go about it.
However, I'm having the exact same issue as above and have for over a year. I researched for months and never could find out what was causing this. I can't afford to guess and replace anymore other parts so I gave up several months ago and we just use it to take "one" trip and let it cool for 45-60 minutes. Its not overheating we just notice the pattern of what it does.
I apologize; I'm a single mom and may not know all the terms such as TSB. The "boiling" fuel sounds what it could very likely be?

01acls

If you want us to help you need to be a lot more specific about the symptoms and when they happen or under what circumstances.

Ie. My car does not start after being driven and park for 20 minutes (hot motor) but starts everytime with a cold or cool motor. When it does start it drives normal indefinitely.

kihayes

Sorry about that first forum and new to any of this but yes; My car does not start (easily) after being driven for a fair amount of distance and park for 20 minutes (hot motor) but starts every time with a cold or . When it does start it drives normal indefinitely. If I do try and start it; it shakes until I throw it into gear and hit the gas. It seems to smooth out from the shakes but the TCS light comes on (CEL stays on now). After I turn it off the TCS light is off when car is cooled. Sometimes it just dies if I can get it into gear and accelerate fast enough. The other thing is I smell gas after these incidents.

01acls

Buy the following parts from rockauto.com and replace them.

01tl4tl

stop by a parts store for a free code reading, by now you should have CEL light on the dash- correct? that means codes are there for interpretation- post them here and we can figure it out
Codes are CLUES not a diagnosis in themselves

coils- multi cyl misfire is often ONE coil, the computer isnt sure which one failed so it gives multi codes

Wires We DO NOT HAVE spark plug wires - each coil sits directly on its 1 spark plug
Go back to the parts store if they sold you wires

Spark PLUGS use ONLY $8 EACH NGK iridium or platinum...not other bs brand like bosch
They wont work in the TL

01acls

No need to pull the codes. They're all false. Unless you want to do it for fun.

Just pull the clock fuse for ten seconds to clear the codes...The codes are stored in the PCM. AKA... Resetting the PCM.

if you reset the PCM then you need to perform the Idle Relearn proceedure.

acuratl26

Hi all,

Apologies for the late response on this topic. So, I ended up going to OReilly's and getting the codes. They were all Engine misfires (P0300,0301-0306, P1399).

One of the first thing that was recommended was the Spark Plugs replacement. They havent been replaced since the car was bought (atleast, there seems to be no record with Acura/CarFax). So, I went ahead and replaced them. For now I am not seeing the problem. Hopefully that fixed it.

ALthough now I am seeing a different issue. So, I replace the headlamps with a pair of new ones from HIDExtra. The driver side one is working perfectly, but the passenger side one comes on and off intermittently. There is no particular reason why it does it. It just comes on and off as and when it wants.

I did not replace the ballasts when I replaced the headlights, as I did not want to deal with the possibility of moisture creep with the new bigger ballasts. Is there someway I can just get one new low price OEM ballast for the Passenger side one, as a replacement?

02tlnate

My HIDExtra does the same thing on the pass side. If I turn the lights off with the engine on then the pass won't come back on until I turn off the car for about 5 mins sometimes constantly turning them on and off it finally comes on. I too want to go back to regular oem ballasts cause I like to leave my lights on all the time and they never gave me a issue

comet24

Hope the plugs fixed it.

If the problem continues look at the Coil Packs. Often just one will be bad but can lead to misfire codes on multiple cylinders.

Chojun

Also check your grounds. If you have a bad electrical connection then just about any problem imaginable can go wrong and then be next to impossible to diagnose.

acuratl26

Thanks all for your inputs. As of now I am not seeing the engine issue. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Chojun, how do I check the grounds?

Chojun

Here are the grounds. Pay particular attention to any braided wires that appear frayed or loose in their connectors - these need to be replaced.

Chevy 0PS

Could someone please tell me how to seafoam a 4th GEN TL??!

Arkady

Chevy - the process will be the same for just about any car really.
Half a can in the gas tank, about half a can GENTLY SLURPED UP in a vacuum line. I used a line right in front of the throttle body for my 2nd-gen TL. On my buddy's 2002 Accord, we used the vacuum line on the brake booster. Look up a youtube video and you'll find some spots you can use.
Make sure that you pour the Seafoam into a clear plastic bottle first, so that you can be sure that you're carefully slurping the liquid up, not just letting your engine chug it up. If you do the latter, you can hydro-lock the entire thing which won't be a good time at all.

Also, this is definitely the wrong thread - you're in the 2nd-gen TL section, not the 4th gen.

WDPanda

Did you change your gas recently?

Christopher O'Sullivan

Just because the starter is turning the engine over doesn't mean the bearings aren't causing excessive friction and causing it to place a high load on the battery and causing the car to crank slowly. It is fairly easy to test the battery capacity by taking it to an auto parts store or you could do a fairly simple test at home by turning on the headlights and other battery powered accessories while checking the battery voltage. That should be enough of a load to determine if the battery voltage is dropping substantially under load. If the voltage under load is not substantially from what it read under no load, the battery is probably not your problem. I replaced my barely adequate OEM battery after it quit at about 5 years old wit an AGM battery and have recently started having a slow cranking issue. The only parts involved in the cranking of the car are the battery & the starter. Also, if the car still cranks slowly if jumper cables are connected to a known good battery, you almost certainly have a bad starter