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I have swapped over the CL-S6 right and left engine compartment wiring harnesses. The underhood fuse box was attached to the passenger side harness, so that was swapped over too.
However, I was wondering if I could reuse my TL-P dash wiring instead of using the 2 CL-S6 dash wires. The dash wiring should connect to the stock TL fusebox, so shouldn't I just be able to reuse it? Or does the dash wiring connect to the ECU or engine compartment harnesses?
As for rewiring the dash, I need some help with the custom wiring harness. If I just swap everything over from the CL-S6, will it start and run ok? If not, what custom wiring is needed to get the car running?
Engine/tranny swap has been a breeze otherwise. Just this wiring that's driving me insane. Any help would go a long way.
if you have the 02 tl type-s or non type-s trip-tonic the swap is not that bad.
in the engine bay on the passenger side is plug C101 and 102. the 10 pin and 14 pin. the 10 pin you can plug together. the 14 pin you need to remove some of the pin on the body side of the harness. in the 14 pin plug on the body harness side you need to short together the park and select wire. then wire to ground . this will allow you to by pass the relay for the start kill when in park.
now feed the wire harness end that has the ecu plugs on it through the fire wall. now were you stock ecu was the is a plug left there call the A31 plug for the ecu. the ecu for the manual engine (37820-pge-a11) you are using has a E31 plug from its body plug . if you look up the tech data on both, you will see the 99% of all the wires are the same between A31 and E31. get the E31 plug from the CL or its the same plug for a K ecu. then just play connect the dots .
my friend has alldata and when we did the swap for my friend it took about a week. it was more of a pain to put the engine and pedal than wiring the car . if you got more question hit me up . i have the info from my friends swap still.
if you have the 02 tl type-s or non type-s trip-tonic the swap is not that bad.
in the engine bay on the passenger side is plug C101 and 102. the 10 pin and 14 pin. the 10 pin you can plug together. the 14 pin you need to remove some of the pin on the body side of the harness. in the 14 pin plug on the body harness side you need to short together the park and select wire. then wire to ground . this will allow you to by pass the relay for the start kill when in park.
now feed the wire harness end that has the ecu plugs on it through the fire wall. now were you stock ecu was the is a plug left there call the A31 plug for the ecu. the ecu for the manual engine (37820-pge-a11) you are using has a E31 plug from its body plug . if you look up the tech data on both, you will see the 99% of all the wires are the same between A31 and E31. get the E31 plug from the CL or its the same plug for a K ecu. then just play connect the dots .
my friend has alldata and when we did the swap for my friend it took about a week. it was more of a pain to put the engine and pedal than wiring the car . if you got more question hit me up . i have the info from my friends swap still.
Omg any more info would be great. I haven't found any info like this on the custom wiring.
So did your friend use the original wiring and just modify it? I was planning on swapping over all of the engine wiring and just hope everything plugs into the fuseboxes/Ecu.
I haven't seen freeaTLast in a while. Not sure if he's been on the board recently.
Fatty any help? Since I have the entire CL-S6, I was just planning on taking out the dash and swapping it over. That way I don't have to remove and install all of the dash wiring. However, in previous posts, you said to use the TL fuseboxes. So I can swap over the TL fuseboxes into the CL dash. Will that work out?
If I do that, is there any other custom wiring necessary to make the car be driveable?
help with wiring im on the same boat right now. were stuck wondering which wiring do i use from the cl6 and what i dont need to remove from the tl dash. if i swap over the cl wiring my rear windows wont work. and also which wire is the select wire and the parking wire. please help asap i need the car out of the shop. thanks.
I cannot get the car to fire up. For some reason its not sending fuel
My mechanic has the hds scanner and reprogrammed the immobolizer to the cl ecu. Immobolizer light is off meaning the keys should work. If we use the test probe to power up the fuel pump the car starts but for some reason im not getting the fuel pump whine when turning key to on position. Can anyone help please. And btw do i use the tl cabin fuse boxes or do i use the cl fuse boxes.
I cannot get the car to fire up. For some reason its not sending fuel
My mechanic has the hds scanner and reprogrammed the immobolizer to the cl ecu. Immobolizer light is off meaning the keys should work. If we use the test probe to power up the fuel pump the car starts but for some reason im not getting the fuel pump whine when turning key to on position. Can anyone help please. And btw do i use the tl cabin fuse boxes or do i use the cl fuse boxes.
You gotta do your homework before doing this shit. Ok, here's what you need:
-CL-S6 MANUAL engine (Cannot be from an Auto)
-CL-S6 Tranny
-CL-S6 Engine Wire Harness
-CL-S6 Left Engine Compartment Wiring
-CL-S6 Right Engine Compartment Wiring
-CL-S6 Upper Dash Wiring
-CL-S6 Lower Dash Wiring
-CL-S6 Underhood Fusebox
-STOCK TL Dash Fuseboxes
If the car is cranking but not getting fuel, it's probably the immobilizer. The green light will behave the same way regardless of the immobilizer accepting/rejecting the key.
if you have the 02 tl type-s or non type-s trip-tonic the swap is not that bad.
in the engine bay on the passenger side is plug C101 and 102. the 10 pin and 14 pin. the 10 pin you can plug together. the 14 pin you need to remove some of the pin on the body side of the harness. in the 14 pin plug on the body harness side you need to short together the park and select wire. then wire to ground . this will allow you to by pass the relay for the start kill when in park.
now feed the wire harness end that has the ecu plugs on it through the fire wall. now were you stock ecu was the is a plug left there call the A31 plug for the ecu. the ecu for the manual engine (37820-pge-a11) you are using has a E31 plug from its body plug . if you look up the tech data on both, you will see the 99% of all the wires are the same between A31 and E31. get the E31 plug from the CL or its the same plug for a K ecu. then just play connect the dots .
my friend has alldata and when we did the swap for my friend it took about a week. it was more of a pain to put the engine and pedal than wiring the car . if you got more question hit me up . i have the info from my friends swap still.
I know this is old and might be a long shot but im stuck here as far as wiring goes, can you pm this info?
Hmm, so this guy retained all of his original wiring except for the engine wire harness. Then he jumped C101/C102 to let the car start, and repinned the main ECU connector... Wonder if that would actually work well.
Initial thoughts are problems with gear selection, but I fixed all of that with simple wiring. I guess it depends on how much OEM functionality you want.
Hmm, so this guy retained all of his original wiring except for the engine wire harness. Then he jumped C101/C102 to let the car start, and repinned the main ECU connector... Wonder if that would actually work well.
Initial thoughts are problems with gear selection, but I fixed all of that with simple wiring. I guess it depends on how much OEM functionality you want.
well i have a wrecked cl-s 6 speed im pulling everything off of so if i just need to change the left and right engine compartment harnesses i dont mind doing that. and from what youve said i can use all the wiring in the cl dash with the tl fuse boxes but how do i get the rear cabin harnesses to work since they are different plugs?
well i have a wrecked cl-s 6 speed im pulling everything off of so if i just need to change the left and right engine compartment harnesses i dont mind doing that. and from what youve said i can use all the wiring in the cl dash with the tl fuse boxes but how do i get the rear cabin harnesses to work since they are different plugs?
If you're going that route, then completely ignore the post above about changing and repinning plugs. All your front half wiring will be from the CL-S6, so it will all be plug and play.
The TL wiring will come up under the door sills and plug into the TL fuseboxes. Mostly everything will plug in, but there may be a couple slight differences. For example, my gas gauge wasn't working because the sensor wasn't getting ground, so I added that to the connector. Just a couple basic things like that.
Idk what to tell you man. It's in the electrical books but you said, "please don't tell me to just buy the wiring diagram books," so I'm not sure what to say.
I can tell you what I did to fix it. The ground sensor that comes from under the driver's door sill will connect to the driver's under dash fusebox, or maybe another connector. I took the end of that connection and grounded it to the bolt that the plastic trim under the steering wheel bolts to.
What electric books are yal referring to. I have the diagrams fro the haynes manual. Some in depth stuff would be nice. Im stuck at this point in my build but from what i have gathered. Keep the tl stuff for everything in the back and use the cl wiring harness to ecu and front panels. Is that about right?
Last edited by Mustafa Muhammad; 08-20-2019 at 09:46 AM.
What electric books are yal referring to. I have the diagrams fro the haynes manual. Some in depth stuff would be nice. Im stuck at this point in my build but from what i have gathered. Keep the tl stuff for everything in the back and use the cl wiring harness to ecu and front panels. Is that about right?
you can't get any more in depth than the Helms service manual. you can find it here by searching for "1999-2003 service manual."
No, the EMS2 doesn't require any repinning or true swap stuff. You just swap the auto tranny for any manual tranny, and the EMS uses the auto engine without modifications. All the wiring harnesses are kept from the original auto stuff.
No, the EMS2 doesn't require any repinning or true swap stuff. You just swap the auto tranny for any manual tranny, and the EMS uses the auto engine without modifications. All the wiring harnesses are kept from the original auto stuff.
I have the manual engine. Bought a cl and swapped everything. I would like the stad aone for tuning but the od ones didnt wor on thebtrue swap. Andnthere is confusing data on if the new one does. Aem2
Did you have a stroke while typing or something? Can't understand your third sentence.
If you want everything to work 100%, you have to use all the auto stuff and use the AEM EMS2. The true manual swap will leave a lot of electrical stuff disconnected without extensive repinning. The only downside to the AEM EMS2 is that it doesn't have OBD2, so it won't pass emissions. If you need OBD2, then just continue with the true manual swap. I'm not sure what you've swapped or where you're stuck, but you should explain clearly what you've done and what problems you're having if you want any real help.
Did you have a stroke while typing or something? Can't understand your third sentence.
If you want everything to work 100%, you have to use all the auto stuff and use the AEM EMS2. The true manual swap will leave a lot of electrical stuff disconnected without extensive repinning. The only downside to the AEM EMS2 is that it doesn't have OBD2, so it won't pass emissions. If you need OBD2, then just continue with the true manual swap. I'm not sure what you've swapped or where you're stuck, but you should explain clearly what you've done and what problems you're having if you want any real help.
Lol no i have big thumbs nd type 120 wpm on a real keyboard. It doesnt translate well on a touch screen. No its all good now. Learned to keep the rears the same but swap alectronics on th front. Just looking for tuning options now.
If you want everything to work 100%, you have to use all the auto stuff and use the AEM EMS2. The true manual swap will leave a lot of electrical stuff disconnected without extensive repinning. The only downside to the AEM EMS2 is that it doesn't have OBD2, so it won't pass emissions. If you need OBD2, then just continue with the true manual swap. I'm not sure what you've swapped or where you're stuck, but you should explain clearly what you've done and what problems you're having if you want any real help.[/QUOTE]
So I did my swap back in 2017 and she's still my favorite. It was pretty straight forward, thought it would be a lot more challenging because of all the chatter in previous research. Prior to my personal swap I led in my friend's 03 TL swap.
In all we have 3 swapped tls.
NB I kept all the auto stuff I switch the gear selector to neutral and tucked it neatly in the engine bay and spliced in a connector for my reverse lights. For a whole year I had no chec engine light. I was busy with work and sent the car to a shop to get it replaced and it came back with the check engine light on. This summer I'm going to reconfigure a few things give her a fresh coat in Pepsi blue do my interior in red and she'll be back to turning heads .
If you're going that route, then completely ignore the post above about changing and repinning plugs. All your front half wiring will be from the CL-S6, so it will all be plug and play.
The TL wiring will come up under the door sills and plug into the TL fuseboxes. Mostly everything will plug in, but there may be a couple slight differences. For example, my gas gauge wasn't working because the sensor wasn't getting ground, so I added that to the connector. Just a couple basic things like that.
from what thefireball has stated, i am thinking we are all missing the significance of "connector e", which is attached to the instrument dash harness.
i could be wrong though and maybe the CL/TL differ in this respect. i was a little surprised, like fireball, no one really discussed this. even with the front engine harnesses, you're short one connector (i think).
this guy did it without the front left and right harnesses and needed connector E still, and i don't think it's attached to either the instrument or dashboard harness in the TL.
electrical manual on the way, but a lot of overlap between the 5AT "A" connector* and the 6MT "E" connector.
5AT connector A pinout 1 5AT connector A pinout 2 6MT connector E pinout 1 6MT connector E pinout 2
tons of overlap, but missing things like the immobiliser indicator light (not mentioned in the TL manual from what i can see).
EDIT: confirmed. the TL service manual deliberately does not talk about the immobiliser, but a side-by-side of the 20P 5AT connector on the CL should allow us to combine A+E to make the 6MT "E":
pinout for 5AT on the CL pinout for 5AT on the TL
can't wait to get my paws on the 01-03 CL electrical service manual.
*this connector, if i understand it correctly, is NOT from the engine harness (which are "B, C, D")
08-11-2012, 01:58 AM
Dropping a CL Type-s 6speed swap in a Auto TL
in the process of the same thing
