Jucin

Ok you can drive it for 15 minutes perfectly fine, then it just acts like it goes into nuetral, then if you wait 2 hours to cool down its fine again. What could this be? Is there a common issue? It's not fried because it wouldn't keep working after it was cold.

3.2TLc

"It could be fried.....!"

Jucin

Once again its not fried because it works fine till operating temps

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

sounds like its on its last leg.
fried.

have you tried swapping out the old fluid with fresh new fluid?

Edward'TLS

The gear clutch packs are fried.

When the tranny is cold, there's still sufficient friction for the clutch packs to engage. But once they heat up, they will just slip and spin freely as if the car is in neutral gear.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^wonder if fresh fluid would help?

3.2TLc

Yeah, at this point.....anything's worth a try !

Check the fluid's level and condition. When draining the old fluid, inspect the residual fines on the magnetic drain plug for the tranny. Beware that after draining and replacing the fluid, the tranny may possibly become worse if the clutch packs are worn beyond limits. If it responds well, try replacing the filter and cleaning the solenoid screens. Ya have nothing to lose !!!!!

MilwaukeeDave

iTrader: (3)

Clean the solenoid screens and change the pressure switches as well as change the fluid. If that doesn't help, it's fried. This is the cheapest possible way to know for sure. You should also try to replace the filter as well.

Jucin

Ok so changed the filter and fresh fluid, ya the old stuff was horrid. Shifted like a champ. Drove it for about 30
Minutes and then it started revving up like it was toast. Engine light comes on so I pull over. Scan it and it throws the. P0730 code. Shift gear solenoid. Cleared it out and it was back to normal. Now my next question is where is the shift solenoid so I can remove them and clean the screens?


FYI I appreciate the help but once again with every forum you get people that give false info which can lead the normal person in the wrong direction as in Edwards info. I'm it gonna even respond to that because that info is so incorrect.

Ill keep you guys posted.

Skirmich

The Trans is Toast the point it Starts to Slip...
No Healthy trans will Ever ever Slip when a Sensor is Crapping out or Dirty it makes it difficult to Shift or Shifts Hard but NEVER SLIP.

So you just basically wasted money Changing ATF.. Listen to the Azine Crowd when we Say its toast; ITS TOAST.

Jucin

Ok so what your saying is after as soon as I cleared the code it went back to normal. So ill just go ahead and no take that into fact of the matter and just spend money on a new Trans. In fact I'm gonna go out tomorrow and get a new Trans in my work truck since its a common issue that in hot temps I will randomly lose all gears and once it cools down then its back to normal because of a solenoid. It's been doing that for 2 us years now but I guess it's "toast" because it revs up.

Skirmich

Its normal that it Works while Cool (BEEN THERE, DONE THAT) It start to slips the moment the Trans reach Working Temperature becouse the ATF starts to break down thermaly from the High Temps of the slightly Slipping Clutches..

When finally starts to overheat its all slipping shifts over again.

A) You wont solve it by Adding new ATF becouse the Clutches physically are creating Over Friction (From the Slight Slip) which in turn creates overheat which in turns destroys the ATF

B) You wont solve it by Cleaning the Solenoids becouse of point A

C) Dont even think of Add an ATF Cooler.

Your only bet now is to finally solve the Problem! Dont make the Mistake of Buying or Rebuilding that TRANS! Get an Accord V6 5 Speed AUTO from 2006 and 2007.. The Swap is pretty simple to Do and it Should be on the same Alley (Money Wise) than getting an Original Trans or a Rebuild BUT you wont solve the problem with either of those.. The AV6 trans is a 4 Shaft Design which Fixes the Problem all together.

AcraAdi93

What about a trans that jerks a bit and makes a thump sound going to only reverse and some of the time needs to push + twice in order to get it from 2nd to 3rd gear in sport mode??

Skirmich

^^That could be dirty Solenoids indeed...
Slip is not the Same as Faulty Sensors.. Slip is when the Engine Over-revs like you were pressing a clutch in a manual for a single second. < That is not Related to Solenoids.

Also a loud Clunk = Change your ATF, is no longer lubricating...

Jucin

Ok first off this car is a 2003, I searched shift Solenoids and there's the thread of the guy that cleans them with a built in screen which was a 99, where ours is located under the starters am I right?


I talked to my Trans guy which he stated these are notorious for getting too hot. I changed fluid again today and drove it fine for 30 miles, highway and all, cruising no issues. Got off the highway and then was driving it stop and go traffic and it did it again. I was cruising about 35-40 and it would rev up and then just started downshifting and slowing the car down. I pulled over and shut the car off and then started it back up and it was fine again. My Trans guy said that if they do get to hot the shift Solenoids will throw out different ohms causing malfunction, so it proves my point that the trans wasn't smoked. I also ended up driving it home which is a 40 minute commute to downtown and only on e did I shut the car off since I had to reset it when I was almost home. It was about 5 minute stop and go then 35 minutes express way and 15 stop n go. That was 3 hour ago. I just went to get something to eat and took it and actually full throttled the car and it shifted fine. So back to my main questions is where is the shift Solenoids and what options do I have? I calls the dealer and they want 350 and 575 for the Solenoids! Lol ya right.

victus1

From what I've seen, the price of all solenoids costs as much if not more than a used low mileage transmission. I wouldn't even think about going aftermarket on such a critical part as a solenoid. No matter how you try to reason it out.....your most cost effective option is an accord tranny.

Skirmich

Listen Jucin...
I know is hard to you to Understand that you Need to waste almost 1K in another Transmission but Im not trying to screw you over to waste in VAIN.

There are 11 Years of Transmission Knowledge in this Forum most of us have had a Fail transmission myself included. With all this Knowledge who would you Trust? A Random transmission Clerk that only Repairs transmission as they crap out on any Car? Or a group of people who have Researched and Search for the causes of our Prioritary agony?...

When a Shift Solenoid goes bad it cannot make the Trans SLIP! KEYWORD = "SLIP".. A shift solenoid only tells the transmission to shift or shift hard or not shift at all... In Any Case the transmission will do as is told (SHIFT or NOT TO SHIFT). SLIPPEAGE is done by a Physical Damage caused to the Clutch Packs is not done by a Sensor, Solenoid or ATF. Is as Simple as Physically the Clutch Packages dont have the Material Enough to Contact properly to Function as they do.

Imagine a Manual Trans and a Worn Clutch... When a Clutch is Worn it gets harder to secure Bond from the Clutch + Flywheel thus generating heat and an obvious loss in power to the wheels.

Your trans inside has lets say something close to many Clutches and Flywheels which they are now "WORN" from a Faulty ATF Lubrication into the Trans Design. You cannot solve this Physical Problem by changing SOLENOIDs since they wont magically add material into the Clutches.


I hope this Help you out Understand the Difference between a Faulty Solenoid and a TOASTED TRANS. Hard Shifts, Miss Shifts and Overall SLIPPEAGE.

So now the Question is Your trans SLIP? or just Hard Shift? If you are anywhere Near anything related to SLIP < Your trans is Toasted.

fsttyms1

Its quite obvious you dont want to take our information seriously, but as the others said your trans is on its way out. We have NOTHING to gain by giving you false information. We have been dealing with these failures since 2000. Many of us multiple (myself having 5 failures, and personally rebuilt 2 of them). Many of us here know more about these trans than the trans shops. You can put new solenoids and fluid in but the damage that is causing this to happen is already done and the longer you keep driving it like this the faster it will finally fully fail. When you start the car cold, the fluid and some of the debris has fallen away from the solenoid screens giving them the ability to hold adequate pressure to hold the gear while driving. Once driving the fluid and debris clog up the screens again causing the pressure to the clutchpacks allowing more and more slip which in turn heats them up to the point they cant hold. Once that happens you have the symptoms you have. These trans HAVE a design flaw (that no trans shop can fix) which cause excessive heat and wear to the 3rd gear clutch packs.

You can use this link and order the solenoids, and bandaid fix it along with changing out your trans fluid a few more times (drain fill x3) because draining the fluid with the drain plug will only get you about 1/3 (3 quarts of the 7.5 or so) of the fluid out of the trans. Also get the external spin on filter and replace that

http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...catdisplay.jsp

Jucin

Guys I appreciate the info but I was a mechanic for 10 plus years and I deal with the forums a lot because "most" of the time you get good info but 90% is what I call the "repeaters" which is just someone repeating what they read with out having any or actual knowledge or experience of it. I bought this car to flip and I just want to get it some what right since it will be going through the auction. You can in fact keep saying it is toast but as of today it now has another 45 miles on it. There is a issue going on here that is weird. This is why I always hated transmissions. If its in 5th gear it does that low funky down shift low mph deal. If I leave it in 4th gear I have NO ISSUES what so ever. So its obviously some sensor or something going hay wire on it.

DLCU2

You seem to not agree with the advice given here, so just change your tran fluid again and flip it.

Skirmich

The fact that we know why you dont have any issues after changing from 2nd to 3rd should give you a hint on how well informed this forum is.. And If you with +10 years of being a mechanic (It Does not make you a Honda Trans Expert tough so you might be as Much Informed as This forum is with your +10 years of Being Mechanic) you cant Understand the reasoning behind our claims it means we are not dealing with the same amount of mutual respect.

Did you even Researched before buying the Car? The Trans problem is a well known defect of the Honda 1st Gen 5 Speed Automatic Transmission since you are a 10+ Years Mechanic you should know why its defective right? If not we the Actual day 1 Owners of the Car (I have 11 years with it) know anything to this day about the issue and can give a better Info than most Trans Shops in the Entire Country.

Go change endlessly ATFs then and clean all the Solenoids you want At the end of the day you may have another +45 miles of horrible shifting (Like its supposed to work right?) but I guarantee you it wont be long before the trans wont shift AT ALL....

Good Luck fixing that with an ATF Change.

fsttyms1

Jucin

Well holy sheeeettt just logged over 50 plus miles with NO ISSUES in 5th gear. I don't claim to know everything but I do have common sense and it looks like it has paid off so far. 100.00 and some of my time vs getting a 1500.00 used Trans. It's funny I was reading some other threads on here about EGRs and one guy posted a thread about rough idle and someone replied clean your throttle body and it sounds like your transmission is bad.


Lol!!!! That's the stuff I'm talking about.

Skirmich

Jesus.. To clarify its COMMON that once you shifted out of 3rd, 4th and 5th will run like its new both gears are on a different shaft... The issue is on the 3rd gear clutch pad so the problem relies on Shifting 2nd to 3rd.

You must take note tough.. Once the Clutch pack gives in and your cruising lets say something like 60mph your in for a surprise

I would not continue to drive the car at speeds with the issue you might Crash.

fsttyms1

Well holy sheeeettt, 50 miles. You just logged a record amount of miles I too tried what you did. It lasted about 500. Im glad i had common sense and watched for the symptoms of when its about to let go, especially on the hwy when it drops out of 5th and into 2nd no matter how fast you are going and caught it just before hand so that i didnt get rear ended by a 18 wheeler. We all wish you good luck considering none of us know more than you do about these trans or have your level of common sense

3.2TLc

Hey Jucin, none of proclaim to be self righteous mechanics.....but any amount of common sense would lead one to trust their "tranny guy". These TL's have documented inherent issues with the tranny's as mentioned. If ya don't want to fix it properly....it's your conscience, just flip and dump it to some poor unsuspecting soul.

412KING

I had this exact instance with my car the day after I bought my 02 TL-S. I bought it in Columbus, OH and was driving to Pittsburgh. The car drove fine the whole way through Ohio but, once I crossed in to PA it downshifted into 2nd and scared the living hell out of me. That was the scariest car ride home I had ever been on. Certainly not worth dealing with wondering if you're going to be able to make it home safely. I was very upset with Acura of Columbus that they would sell me the car like this knowing it had these issues and I question your moral values if you plan on selling this car after making a quick "fix" so that it works for a period of time when everybody here is telling you from their own experience that the trans is done.

RC99TL

"I was a mechanic for 10 plus years" -love that.
Listen to the members here - you are in fact getting responses from the most educated and experienced owners on the site. Most of us don't just post we do ALL of our own work.
Like it was suggested, go do your research - these aren't your typical planetary type auto transmissions, they are more akin to manuals with clutch packs on each gear set.
As stated (many times) before there is an issue with fluid delivery to the 3rd gear clutch that causes overheating and wear which snowballs in severity.
Clean fresh fluid is only buying you time before the massive fail.
Apologies to all if I am beating the dead horse with this guy - it's just that I get defensive after all the help, ideas and advice I have gotten here...

fsttyms1

3.2TLc

yeah, gotta agree with the guys !