I've been searching the 2nd Gen RL forums and can't find a consistent answer for this so basically I want to you know what fluid you guys are using for the following and I will list what I am using/thinking about using.

Motor (Done):
Amsoil SAE 5W-20 Signature Series 100% Synthetic Motor Oil
Amsoil EA Synthetic Oil Filters EA15K13
Transmission (Need Suggestion):
Amsoil Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluidor
Honda ATF-Z1(wanted this but can’t find it) or
Honda ATF-DW1 (I hear this isn’t good for out RL?)
Differential:
Honda Dual Pump Fluid II?
Transfer Case:
AMSOIL Synthetic Gear Lube SAE 80W-90
Power Steering:
Suggestions?
Brake:
Suggestions?
Was thinking Amsoil Series 500 High-Performance DOT 3 Brake Fluid

As you can probably notice I like Amsoil a lot ha. As far as using Amsoil in the transmission goes what do you guys think? My parents use Amsoil Tranny Fluid in their 05 Accord and 05 Odyssey and I put it in my 05 MDX before I sold it and bought my 05 RL…I have faith in it but was wondering if any of you guys had used it in your RL

 

My input using your list.
Amsoil is a great brand. I use Mobil1 5w30 and Mobile1 filter for my engine, but I only use the 30 because I am in TX.

 

Thanks! I heard also that the coolant is always something that should be the honda/acura brand? Forgot to add coolant to my list but what are your opinions on that?

Also yes I love Mobile1 too! I was using it for a long time and this is the first time I used Amsoil Oil/Filter, the oil is rated for 25,000 (I am still doing standard 5,000 miles though) and I heard the filter is suppose to be one of the best. Also I have my old NAPA filter that I am going to cut apart later and see whats in the filter.

 

Current Honda standards are 7-8k miles for conventional. A synthetic is easily safe beyond 10-14k. (I do change mine every ~8.5k anyway.)

I have never heard of Honda coolant or that it is necessary. It's just water and antifreeze. I may stand corrected, but that is not a concern.

 

Motul motor oil in the J
and Redline ATF in the tranny (coming from a TL)

haven't done transfer case n differential yet, I will decide on that reading from this thread down the road.

 

Awesome! Anyways I am doing all the fluids this weekend and will be posting in depth DIY's sometime in the near future when I am done doing everything to my car...it hasn't had passenger or rear seats for about a month now lol.

 

Im a few weeks from making the full amsoil switch from conventional, have you posted the diy's yet? In another thread, youtube?

 

How often are you changing the transmission filter?

 

Custom Matt is long gone. No one changes their transmission filter.

 

are you being serious? Is there a filter to change in the trans? I thought I saw one in a diagram somewhere but could be mistaken.

 

It sits in the bottom of the pan IIRC. You have to drop the pan and replace the gasket using considerable caution.

I was pretty sure I had answered this question for you before. Honda designed the system similar to the fuel filter to not be a maintenance item. They expect both filters to last longer than the car under normal circumstances.

 

My Camry has over 260K original miles now, not once was the transmission filter replaced. I drain and refill the fluid regularly, but I've never bothered going thru the hassle of dropping the pan to deal with the filter. As 007 said, the gasket has to be set very carefully, and the bolts have to be torqued in a specified order gradually. It's just a major pain in behind. If it isn't torqued right, it's asking for a leak.... I know I won't do it until the gasket starts leaking on either cars! I'll stick to my drain and fills!

 

Thank you for the info, you have answered ALOT of my questions...i hadn't asked about the filter before yesterday.

 

I have a taurus that the rl is replacing, that has 260k also...ive replaced the trans filter on it 4 times along with a drain and refill that many times. But i had to drop the pan to do the drain so i figured why not.

 

It makes sense there since you're dropping the pan regardless

 

yes indeed. I just picked up 9 qts of Amsoil ATF to do the 3x3 starting next week; along with 75w90 for the transfer case and 0w20 for the engine - still need to get some DPSF from the dealer.

 

My bad. Thinking of someone else.

 

Post #6 here has my two cents on tranny and diff fluids:

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...fluids-795607/

 

Thanks or bringing that thread here, ive read it before. Lots if good info.

 

I buy my oil filters on line from Bernardi Acura for $5 and Mobil 1 from Walmart the five quart jug for $23.

 

I wasn't sure which thread to bump about this, but I figured it wasn't worth a new thread. I dropped my car off for PDR on two dents at the dealer not too long ago, and I started talking with a tech who got curious about my car.

We started talking about oil weights used for the J35 and he said that 5W-20 was the factory oil, but 0W-20 was also recommended for the J35 RL's, but not the J37's. He even showed me the printout they have from Honda Motor Co. with 5W-20 listed as primary recommended and 0W-20 also listed as recommended in smaller font. Any one have any thoughts on switching over to 0W-20 on an 05-08 RL? Vehicle is located in a northern state but doesn't get run in the winter at all

 

I've run 0W-20 in my J35 for years with no oil consumption or problems, but I live in the Snow Belt. If I didn't, I'd probably use 5W-20.

Honestly, I don't think it's that much of an issue. I'd be more concerned about tranny fluid. Given timing belts, the J Series engines run forever with any kind of general maintenance.

 

Most of what I'm reading is supporting what you're saying to be honest. Since this car isn't driven and the winter.... I think I'll stick to the 5W20. Thanks for chiming in!

Agreed on the tranny fluid part. I do know that Honda is very particular about certain fluids like the transmission and power steering fluids in my experience. The power steering pump failed prematurely on my old 1G RL and was replaced by the previous owner due to non-oem fluid...

 

0W-20 is only available as a synthetic, and that might be part of their suggestion (getting customers to buy their synthetic). The winter weight is an indicator of how viscous the fluid is at startup when the engine is cold. This is the most common time for bearing damage, and as a result, it should be payed attention to. However, 5W oil is viscous down to like -10 degrees F. Unless you are starting up in REALLY cold environments without a block heater, then 5W will give you plenty of coverage.

Personally, I don't ever startup in less than 20 degrees F because we don't have the resources to keep roads safe. With that in mind, I care more about the other end of the spectrum (heat) and run oils heavier than OEM recommendation. Legend #1 got 10W-30, Legend #2 got 5W-30, and my Tundra gets 10W-40. All three are 5W-20 recommended, and many feel that 20 weight is too thin in the extreme heat we can encounter here.

 

Makes sense. I'm honestly not seeing any reason why I should switch out from 5W-20 at this point to be honest. We rarely see over 100 degrees in the states I travel in, the highest we see are waves of 90's. And the car sits on a battery tender during the colder months....

 

Good for the car, I agree, but not an option in the Midwest. I love my RL, but I'd be garaging it for 4 months by that standard, and I have places I gotta go.

In Austin, you have the exact opposite problem from mine. With all those 100-degree days and very little of the opposite to contend with, I wouldn't run such thin oil either. Up here, we've had only about 6 days over 90 this year, and none over 95.

 

Mobile1 5/30 Denso oil filter.

 

Yeah, that's what I was trying to say. We maybe have 5 days a year with 20 degree weather and if there is any moisture, everyone stays home. That's why running a 10W year around doesn't concern me. Anyone north of Dallas can't really do that. As long as your oil will flow at startup temperature, there is really no potential for damage. This, 5W is the safe bet for just about everyone.

 

0w40 for me, but that's Europe .

 

I stick with OEM fluids and OEM frequency except for motor oil which is synthetic and standard weight. I think the synthetic helps a little on mileage and keeping the engine clean. I still change motor oil at recommended frequency although I maybe could stretch it. I want maximum life and minimum problems. Do not use Honda Pump Fluid instead of Super Handling AWD Fluid. It is different.

 

I disagree it is different. Besides the color, what is different about it?

 

I have been told from several sources that the Honda fluid is different. I have a Honda CRV that I use the Dual Pump fluid on and the 06 RL that I use the SHAWD fluid. They seem somewhat different in viscosity, to me. I would really like to know if they are truly the same because the SHAWD fluid is much more expensive.

 

I've also heard similar things. To be honest with you, the way I look at it is this: Honda AWD doesn't function the same way as the SH-AWD with the clutches in the rear diff and all those extra parts. What's a little bit extra for the fluid every differential fluid change for the peace of mind?

 

From everything I could gather, they are the same plus some die. I am not one to skimp on $10 for something that could screw up my car. While I agree the SH-AWD rear diff is different than the CR-V/Pilot/Ridgeline rear diff, I don't think Honda changed enough to necessitate a different fluid. I believe they used the same rear diff and added some magnetic clutch packs and electronic logic. Let's think about it. They used to use the ATF fluid, ATF-Z1, in the rear diff. They discovered the thick viscosity was causing unnecessary drag and hurting MPG essential to marketing, so they lightened up the ATF fluid and introduced DW1. Realizing Z1 is used in the diff, they thought about it and came to the conclusion the new ATF fluid wasn't built to handle the extremes of a rear diff, so they reached in their box of knowledge and pulled out the fluid that has protected Honda rear diffs for a decade.

Honestly, I have yet to see a definitive source say it IS different. That's why I asked. "I've heard from numerous sources..." isn't definitive in any sense. Can I say for sure its the same? No. Do I think if you use Honda dual pump fluid in your RL and change it every 45k, you will ever experience a rear diff failure because of it? No. I bet 95% of RL owners could run the new ATF-DW1 in their RL and never experience a rear diff issue.

 

Thank you for your complete explanation of you position. Your rationale is sound. However, considering the cost of repairs I will continue to use the recommended fluids. For me the risk is too great to skimp on such as small cost item. I may be wasting a few bucks but the benefit in peace of mind is worth it for me.

 

Last week I changed all of the powertrain fluids on my RL and below is what I replaced..

Transmission: Acura ATF-DW1
Rear Differential: Acura DPFS
Transfer Case: Royal Purple 75W-90
-- I called the local dealer and they told me to just buy 75w-90 from a local parts store. I asked him, "so where do you guys get yours from?". His answer, "We buy in bulk from a local oil company". I strongly believe that was a scripted answer.

I Agree with oo7spy and dapqam on the responses above. I don't want to risk skimping on fluids and then in the long run have major impacts..

My mechanic and good friend has always told me when it comes to powertrain and Antifreeze, go with OEM.. You can never go wrong. Now as far as brake fluid he always recommending using Synthetic with the same DOT weight.