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wet sand with 2000 grid then moving up to 2500 grid and finish with 3000 grid. I then buff the headlight with M105 (you can touch up with a 205 if needed) and do the final touch up before applying Opti lens coating. Sorry those headlight restore kit will never get my money.
Opti lens coating... holy crap... they are proud of their product, I found some at parts geek for $69.99 Didn't expect that.
Actually was Sunday, but I replaced the broken fog light glass for about $15 ($2.50 for plate glass, $8 for glass cutter, $5 for silicone caulk)
Broken fog light glass Removed bumper. 12 plastic fasteners and 6 screws. Remove assembly from bumper. Used pliers and screwdriver to remove remaining glass. Cut a new glass from a 9/32" plate glass. Edges were slightly jagged but doesn't matter. Clear silicone as adhesive for glass. All done
Advics brake pads front and rear , wheel rotation and alignment, AFT DW1 replacement, Mobil 1 engine oil/filter change with 100,000 miles 8 years old and still drives so sweet.
Led yellow fog lights. the Nokya yellow burned out after six months. Hopefully these LEDs will last longer. they are bright. replaced the steering fluid. easy with this pump
One of the H1 bulbs from my quad retrofit gave out. So I decided to splurge a little and replaced them with Phillips capsule H1's from TRS. I just took the car out for a spin and the advertised blurb seems to be true! I definitely noticed the added brightness!
Recently got some squeaky in the front right suspension, found the sway bar end link loose... Replace front and rear along with rear sway bar bushing only to find the squeaking noise more evident. I found out the front right upper control arm bushing is slightly loose. Well I look at OEM parts for upper and lower arm = $1385, I end up ordered B&A at $389 since HDBenjamin used them.
I am intriguing to see how this replacement workout for the long run, hope its good enough for five years.
Recently got some squeaky in the front right suspension, found the sway bar end link loose... Replace front and rear along with rear sway bar bushing only to find the squeaking noise more evident. I found out the front right upper control arm bushing is slightly loose. Well I look at OEM parts for upper and lower arm = $1385, I end up ordered B&A at $389 since HDBenjamin used them.
I am intriguing to see how this replacement workout for the long run, hope its good enough for five years.
It is a good replacement part! let us know how it goes.
Woah. What's the story here? How many miles did you have on your old engine? why did it die?
just casually driving it on the freeway and I hear a loud boom inside the car, I then look at the engine bay and there is an ignition coil with the spark plug burnt on it laying on the engine. Turns out that it’s blew the threads off of the cylinder head. Had 173k miles when it happened.
just casually driving it on the freeway and I hear a loud boom inside the car, I then look at the engine bay and there is an ignition coil with the spark plug burnt on it laying on the engine. Turns out that it’s blew the threads off of the cylinder head. Had 173k miles when it happened.
got the new front upper+lower control arm, the front end is tight, steering response had been increased and no more squeaking noise during load transfer to the front. I will be back later with some more miles to review these control arm.
got the new front upper+lower control arm, the front end is tight, steering response had been increased and no more squeaking noise during load transfer to the front. I will be back later with some more miles to review these control arm.
Thanks for the update! Looking forward to the next one.
Had to replace the Neutral Safety Switch, had issues starting, The RL never let me down thou, had to put in neutral to get started. Also replaced the plugs, air filter, cabin filter and replaced wipers with PIAA blades.
Past six months, new wheels, replaced rear bumper trim, the RL never looked so good.
yeah it was cylinder 5, what’s the problem with it anyways?
On the J series its somewhat common to have plug #5 blew out, every single J30,J32,J35 blew the plug 90% of them is #5. I would highly recommend you check and re-torque all the plug after 40k miles.
Replaced a dome lamp bulb, unsnapped the console lamp from it's hole and ordered a replacement bulb as well as, ordered a Bluetooth interface, door grip and door armrest covers.
Just bought a 2010 for $1700. Owner hit a deer. So ive been inspecting the damage and creating a parts list as I go. I know this is going to sound odd but the first thing i discovered is the hood is aluminum. Oh deer......that damage.
Alternator starting to making noise, replace it with Denso reman and everything got quiet again. I did check to see how the Becker control arm holding out, all tires wear looks good def worth the $389.....
Replaced the latch on my armrest and replaced the cruise on/off button. Tried to replace a bad button on the overhead console but I can't figure out how it comes down without breaking...
Purchased a 2010 RL a couple weeks ago with 71k miles...what a car! I've seen a few KB1's locally but never a KB2.
Last week: changed tranny, front transfer case, and rear diff fluids.
This week: ordered rotors, pads, SS lines, fluid, and spark plugs. Car came with original rear pads and resurfaced rotors.
Is there a need to do the TB/WP/Coolant/Power Steering now, or is it OK to wait until closer to 100k miles?
Installed the BT45-ACU Bluetooth module. After years of mediocre to horrible sound using FM tuner bluetooth devices, I bit the bullet. Not sure why it costs $179 in 2020 but it is WAAAAAAYYY better than the other devices. Dead quiet, no interference or buzzing noises and no compression to music via bluetooth. Should have done this long ago. Hit me up with any questions.
I got P0977 code and decided to replace the solenoid B hoping for best. It was lengthy job mostly due to trying to scrape off old gaskets. (also had to remove metal battery tray by going through wheel well; there are two bolts you can see from the driver side wheel; i had to remove the wheel) Unfortunately, during the job, I tested the old solenoid and it turned out to be good. So I used procedures in page 14-184 to troubleshoot (after making scs line jumping tool https://www.odyclub.com/threads/how-...he-hds.272714/).
After troubleshooting, found the issue - broken cable on PCM wire harness in the engine bay!
Now trying to figure out how to fix this wire.
I swapped out the map and reading bulbs today with Phillips LED 4000K. Bought the bulbs from eBay from Russia and it took 2 whole months for the package to arrive, but it's really worth it - I love the natural white color, not yellowish and not bluish. Man, pulling out the map bulbs and putting the new LED bulbs in was really a workout for me - I have no idea the socket will be that tight. Thanks to the tips in the TL forum I was able to pull out the bulbs using scotch tape.
Alternator starting to making noise, replace it with Denso reman and everything got quiet again. I did check to see how the Becker control arm holding out, all tires wear looks good def worth the $389.....
07-08-2019, 09:37 PM
Finally!
