pgeorg10

I know there is a unique paint process on RL. Exactly what is it? Does Acura recomend a type of wax to use? i.e. canuba, polymer?

RandyChicago

From www.hondanews.com:

The exterior paint on the 2005 Acura RL uses an environmentally conscious water-based process. The painting procedure begins with an electrodeposition (ED) primer, which is electrically charged in the paint bath. After the ED primer is applied, it is cured at high temperature to improve corrosive durability.

Next comes a primer-surfacer (PS) that is hand sanded to ensure a smooth surface for better appearance. After a waterborne color basecoat (BC) is applied, a pair of clear coats provide depth while helping to protect the base coat from air pollution, acid rain and fog. Nine different exterior colors are available, including four metallic colors and five pearl colors.


The RL's paint is different because the primer is hand sanded, and also uses two coats of clear coat. However, this means it's still a clear coat paint, so you can use traditional waxes or polymer-based.

I ran my own detailing business for several years when I was younger, and I have likely used/tried over 50 brands of wax/polish. I much prefer polymer-based products, as they tend to last longer, create less mess (dusting), and be easier to use. I discovered Zaino Bros products about six years ago, and I still think they have the best product on the market. There are multiple steps to it, but I personally feel that the steps they ask you to take are what *should* be done before using *anyone's* wax/polish on your car. Here's my "once-a-year" full detail technique, for both the paint, and the wheels:

1. Wash the car with Dawn dishwashing liquid (NOT what you usually want to use, as it strips off any wax on the car)

2. Use a professional bar of paint-detailing clay to remove all contaminents from the paint surface. They are available both online and at local auto-parts stores for under $20. (this may seem like overkill, but it *really* makes the difference, and allows the polish you use to adhere directly to the clear coat surface, without any old wax or road grime getting sealed in)

3. Re-wash the car and wheels with Dawn to remove any clay residue

4. NOW your car is ready for waxing/polishing.

Like I said, my favorite products are Zaino Bros, but I also recommend a product I've been using for about two years called Rejex. It's more of a one-step product, but I don't think it creates quite the same level of gloss/shine as Zaino does. However, I think it lasts almost as long as Zaino. After the steps above, I use Rejex on friends' and family cars, who aren't going to care about "show car" shine. I strictly use Zaino Bros products on every part of my car and wheels.

Additionally, if you haven't used Rain-X before on all of your exterior glass, get some! My family has been using it for almost 15 years now, and each time I ride/drive in a car without it in the rain, I don't see (pun intended) how people can drive without it! If you want to take that a step further, you can buy a product called AquaPel, made by PPG. This is a longer-lasting (but more expensive) coating for your windows. This comes standard on the front glass of Lexus vehicles when purchased new. Usually it's sold for around $30 an application by "professionals" but I've bought it on eBay before, for about $5 an application (it lasts about 6-8 months per app.) I had a 24-case delivered to me for about $112 with shipping included.

Randy

www.zainobros.com

http://www.corrosionx.com/rejex.html

http://www.ppg.com/gls_aquapel/

1HOT NSX

I second the recommendation right above with the exception of the clay bar step. Your car and paint are brand new and it shouldn't need to be clayed. Indeed, Zaino is the best stuff I've ever used and I've used plenty of other waxes and polishes of all kinds. All my cars are now protected by Zaino, including my NSX.

RandyChicago

First off, I completely respect your opinion. I too used to think that new cars didn't need the clay step, but after reading several articles about how many cars travel via railcar, the raildust often settles on the paint, sticking to (and through) the coatings they put on the cars to protect them. Using the thin plastic glove that often comes with clay bar kits, or a thin plastic baggie, run your hand over the paint surface. It may seem smooth, but if you use a clay-bar on a section of the paint, the comparision will be obvious to the touch, and likely noticable down the road when the wax lasts longer on the clayed portion (I've tried this test, and it does last longer). Remember, the brand of clay doesn't matter (as long as it's designed for this purpose).

I will say all of this is likely over-kill for most folks, but if you're like me, and you want the no-holds-barred approach to the perfect paint finish...use a clay bar once a year (usually spring)



Randy

Karl_in_Chicago

I second the notion on, even new, the value of using a claybar to remove raildust. It's quite startling to see the amount of "stuff" that comes off even a brand new car. You can still get a great shine without the clay but allowing the clean, virgin, paint to directly marry with that initial Z1 or, these days, with ZFX-enhanced Z2 (or Z5) does make a visible difference for the truly committed (and it's been suggested that I be commited more than once ).

Fabvsix

I've been using ZAINO for the past 4-5 years. By far some of the BEST stuff. I just got Sal's new product called Zaino 8 Grand Finale spray seal ! Can wait to try it out !

msu79gt82

Hey Fabvsix, I didn't know you were over here too. I used to own an '02 TL-S and was "fairly" (off & on) active in the TL forum for a while.

xaznperswaesonx

Go to the wash and wax topic in the Off Topic forum. It's establish that you should wash, clay, wash, wax your car when you first get it. Or wait a month after if you're paint from factory havent cured yet. Reason for clay on brandnew car is to remove metal dust deposit from train ride to dealer. Trust me on htis on e... i clayed my car first week i got it. sooooper smoooth. if you dont believe me .. put your hand in a bag .. and glide over the body of car .. all that bump needs to be removed.

Topic on on using Dawn to strip wax .. DONT USE IT! pretty establish on the Wash & Wax forum.

Fabvsix

Msu:
I'm an old timer in the sense of being around in the pioneer days of the internet (before it was called internet, extranet, intranet, xtranet etc.....). I joined all the gear head forums years ago....(in 1998 Honda Accord forum v-6 specifically, then the 260hp.com (now Acurazine ????), MDX etc, etc, etc.....)
Ever heard of www.dice.com ? I'm there 3rd customer 14 years ago when few knew what "http" meant.......
Btw I'm not that old either.....