New RL 2010 with 45k miles
#1
New RL 2010 with 45k miles
Purchased new Acura RL and I have some problems that I may need some help
Running the self diagnostics on the car I'm getting an XM error I'm also getting a microphone error
Oddly enough the Acura dealer thinks that it's the handsfreelink module but they can't say for sure that's the problem unfortunately dealer cost out the door to replace the hfl is $2,000
Even more weird is that handsfreelink works and I have no issues linking my cell phone and taking and receiving calls
What is happening is that intermittently all the buttons that control the radio seemed to have a 5-10 second delay including the volume so if I attempt to change the volume on the steering wheel or on the dash the boy will turn maybe one or two numbers but it sometimes takes up to 10 seconds
Lastly I cannot stream music from my phone through hfl but as I said above I can except and make calls through Bluetooth.
Luckily the car has an AUX Outlet So currently we are plugging our phones into that cord and are able to listen to music streaming from our phones. My Galaxy S 8 has an AUX port but my family's apples phones no longer have got port what are able to use an apple adapter.
Therefore if we can just stop this delay in volume and button push we should be good but I hesitate to spend $2,000 especially when I'm told that may not solve the problem
Anyone have any ideas thanks
Running the self diagnostics on the car I'm getting an XM error I'm also getting a microphone error
Oddly enough the Acura dealer thinks that it's the handsfreelink module but they can't say for sure that's the problem unfortunately dealer cost out the door to replace the hfl is $2,000
Even more weird is that handsfreelink works and I have no issues linking my cell phone and taking and receiving calls
What is happening is that intermittently all the buttons that control the radio seemed to have a 5-10 second delay including the volume so if I attempt to change the volume on the steering wheel or on the dash the boy will turn maybe one or two numbers but it sometimes takes up to 10 seconds
Lastly I cannot stream music from my phone through hfl but as I said above I can except and make calls through Bluetooth.
Luckily the car has an AUX Outlet So currently we are plugging our phones into that cord and are able to listen to music streaming from our phones. My Galaxy S 8 has an AUX port but my family's apples phones no longer have got port what are able to use an apple adapter.
Therefore if we can just stop this delay in volume and button push we should be good but I hesitate to spend $2,000 especially when I'm told that may not solve the problem
Anyone have any ideas thanks
#2
I'm not any kind of professional in these matters, but the first thing I'd do is the first thing I do when any kind of home consumer electronics exhibits squirrelly behavior: cut off the power. In this case, that would mean disconnecting the battery at the negative terminal for a couple minutes. Of course, have your radio and any other codes all rounded up and handy first.
Electronic devices have permanent memory that tells them how to start and how to behave. In a computer, that's called the BIOS, but all electronic devices have some version of it. It's ROM permanently imprinted on a chip. Sometimes an accumulation of static electricity overrides the instructions, which are recorded through only a minute amount of voltage, and taking away the power dissipates it – sort of a fresh start. It's a no-cost thing to try, at least.
Electronic devices have permanent memory that tells them how to start and how to behave. In a computer, that's called the BIOS, but all electronic devices have some version of it. It's ROM permanently imprinted on a chip. Sometimes an accumulation of static electricity overrides the instructions, which are recorded through only a minute amount of voltage, and taking away the power dissipates it – sort of a fresh start. It's a no-cost thing to try, at least.
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RL09 (11-17-2019)
#4
All other times, the system will eventually switch to XM, but is silent
#5
I'm not any kind of professional in these matters, but the first thing I'd do is the first thing I do when any kind of home consumer electronics exhibits squirrelly behavior: cut off the power. In this case, that would mean disconnecting the battery at the negative terminal for a couple minutes. Of course, have your radio and any other codes all rounded up and handy first.
Electronic devices have permanent memory that tells them how to start and how to behave. In a computer, that's called the BIOS, but all electronic devices have some version of it. It's ROM permanently imprinted on a chip. Sometimes an accumulation of static electricity overrides the instructions, which are recorded through only a minute amount of voltage, and taking away the power dissipates it – sort of a fresh start. It's a no-cost thing to try, at least.
Electronic devices have permanent memory that tells them how to start and how to behave. In a computer, that's called the BIOS, but all electronic devices have some version of it. It's ROM permanently imprinted on a chip. Sometimes an accumulation of static electricity overrides the instructions, which are recorded through only a minute amount of voltage, and taking away the power dissipates it – sort of a fresh start. It's a no-cost thing to try, at least.
Stop at the store car sat for 15 minutes Restarted of the car and the problem reappeared .
Driving home I disconnected the Bluetooth no difference and and heavy acceleration got a code for the all wheel drive system is DTC 75
When I arrived at home I went through the diagnostics see the pictures below
#6
I know you're gonna think this is the goofiest suggestion ever, but the next thing I'd do is replace the battery.
There are legions of examples over the years on this board where every manner of weird, inexplicable electrical gremlin was magically cured by putting in a new battery. This is even if the old battery tests out perfectly and is less than 4 years old.
These cars had a lot of electrical toys that were new and untried at the time. They also have batteries that are undersized for the car''s power draw, probably as a desperation weight saving measure by Honda since the car is so loaded it weighs nearly 4,100 pounds despite aluminum hood, front fenders and suspension members, carbon fiber in the driveshaft and magnesium in the seat frames.
This is sincerely the most cost-efficient next thing to try.
There are legions of examples over the years on this board where every manner of weird, inexplicable electrical gremlin was magically cured by putting in a new battery. This is even if the old battery tests out perfectly and is less than 4 years old.
These cars had a lot of electrical toys that were new and untried at the time. They also have batteries that are undersized for the car''s power draw, probably as a desperation weight saving measure by Honda since the car is so loaded it weighs nearly 4,100 pounds despite aluminum hood, front fenders and suspension members, carbon fiber in the driveshaft and magnesium in the seat frames.
This is sincerely the most cost-efficient next thing to try.
#7
Put new battery and do this. https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-rl-a...-reset-847010/
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TonyCD (11-25-2019)
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#8
I know you're gonna think this is the goofiest suggestion ever, but the next thing I'd do is replace the battery.
There are legions of examples over the years on this board where every manner of weird, inexplicable electrical gremlin was magically cured by putting in a new battery. This is even if the old battery tests out perfectly and is less than 4 years old.
These cars had a lot of electrical toys that were new and untried at the time. They also have batteries that are undersized for the car''s power draw, probably as a desperation weight saving measure by Honda since the car is so loaded it weighs nearly 4,100 pounds despite aluminum hood, front fenders and suspension members, carbon fiber in the driveshaft and magnesium in the seat frames.
This is sincerely the most cost-efficient next thing to try.
There are legions of examples over the years on this board where every manner of weird, inexplicable electrical gremlin was magically cured by putting in a new battery. This is even if the old battery tests out perfectly and is less than 4 years old.
These cars had a lot of electrical toys that were new and untried at the time. They also have batteries that are undersized for the car''s power draw, probably as a desperation weight saving measure by Honda since the car is so loaded it weighs nearly 4,100 pounds despite aluminum hood, front fenders and suspension members, carbon fiber in the driveshaft and magnesium in the seat frames.
This is sincerely the most cost-efficient next thing to try.
Interesting. The car has an Acura battery, dated 2017. I added water and cleaned the batery terminals, even though they were not corroded.
will try the reset mentioned as soon as it stops snowing
#9
It's nearly December 2019, which means your battery could be as old as 2 years 10 months. I actually have it scribbled down on my errand list to pre-emptively replace mine next week at age 3 years even, simply because the three-year mark is about as long as any of my batteries (all Acura brand OEM) have lasted on this car in my decade of ownership.
#10
Tested the battery
Removed the battery posts for about 15 minutes and then connected a wire between the the negative and positive battery cables. Also connected a multimeter to the battery, the meter read 12.37. Spoke to the Acura dealer service department and was told they don't read battery voltage, just use a "battery tester" that reads pass or fail.
Does Acura have a minimum acceptable voltage for warranty? They also charge $40 labor to remove and install if not covered by warranty.
Does Acura have a minimum acceptable voltage for warranty? They also charge $40 labor to remove and install if not covered by warranty.
#11
Removed the battery posts for about 15 minutes and then connected a wire between the the negative and positive battery cables. Also connected a multimeter to the battery, the meter read 12.37. Spoke to the Acura dealer service department and was told they don't read battery voltage, just use a "battery tester" that reads pass or fail.
Does Acura have a minimum acceptable voltage for warranty? They also charge $40 labor to remove and install if not covered by warranty.
Does Acura have a minimum acceptable voltage for warranty? They also charge $40 labor to remove and install if not covered by warranty.
#12
Reset didn't fix the issue unfortunately
However, her is what happened next.
I took the RL to the Acura dealer and asked them to replace the battery under warranty. They tested the battery and it read on the test just under 12 volts. They then did a deep cycle test to see if it could keep a charge.
They came back and told me that the battery was still good, but found a parasitic draw from th HFL unit.
They disconnected the HFL module and the RL is running withoutwity electronic gremlins ever since.
Since the dealership wants $2000 to replace the HFL module, it will not be replaced
Thanks to everyone for their assistance.
However, her is what happened next.
I took the RL to the Acura dealer and asked them to replace the battery under warranty. They tested the battery and it read on the test just under 12 volts. They then did a deep cycle test to see if it could keep a charge.
They came back and told me that the battery was still good, but found a parasitic draw from th HFL unit.
They disconnected the HFL module and the RL is running withoutwity electronic gremlins ever since.
Since the dealership wants $2000 to replace the HFL module, it will not be replaced
Thanks to everyone for their assistance.
The following users liked this post:
WDE_RL2010 (12-10-2019)
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