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Acura RL 2010 with ACC ....Running on the road with ACC on and after a moment (15 to 20 min ) suddently the ACC turning off then the CMBS and the air bag going Off . Checked the battery is OK and the charge system is Ok .... What could it be other than the Cruise control Module ... a sensor ? which ones should i check ?
Gotta love the cryptic RL's....
Anyways, were you driving in freezing rain or wet snow? I have it where the radar gets blocked and then things go wonky.
This will need to be reset by the dealer and then you should be OK. The warnings will keep returning and leaving an unsettled feeling in your stomach until they reset it.
I have learned that I do not use my ACC in iffy weather. You will still get a "Check CMBS Radar" warning in wet snow / freezing rain but it doesn't stick around. If you use the ACC in wet snow then it really messes up everything.
Thanks for your quick reply , Gotta a love also my previous RL 20007 but i have some problems with this 2010 Rl . The weather was not a problem with the radar coz we were having a sunny day with 9 C yesterday in quebec . I experienced already the problem with sticky snow but this is not the environment i was having yesterday . A reset was done by mechanic guy who is familiar with acura .
I experienced also the same problem even if the ACC was not turned on so that's why i am questionning if there could be a sensor that can be not working well ... but i do not know wich one .... Thanks for your help !
They did replace my VCC Module under warranty when this happened last spring but you're not going to like the price of that. There were hard codes according to the dealer so at least I was covered then.
Warranty is over and the Christmas tree did happen to me with the snow again this year but a simple dealer reset took care of it. This was complimentary as I had servicing booked as well.
The 2009 - 2012 are a very rare breed indeed and I think you may have to seek dealer assistance on this one. In Canada only a total of 75 RL's were sold in 2011-2012 and even the Acura dealers have not had much working knowledge of them.
Keep us in the loop!
Last edited by theShaft; 02-22-2018 at 12:53 PM.
Reason: typo fix
It's true that when there's ice stuck on the radar, the cmbs light will come on. It's rare though.
But when a bunch of lights happen together, my feeling has been there's less current, and even with my gel battery, it is happening.
But turning themselves off altogether is different. There's a modulator fix on here somewhere do a search. I think if i recall correctly the guy found the same modulator in another car brand that cost almost nothing. do a seach and put modulator and specify the RL forum.
Good news for me , last week the dealership find the trouble of all those light while doing a complete inspection of my vehicule . Of what i understand there was a wire not well connected located just over my right leg in the dash board . From what i understand ,it seems that a previous mechanic guy had check with a scanner for the OBD codes and disconnect a wire nearby . Up to now the 3 lights are staying correctly . Maybe you could ask for an inspection of the wires around that place. It seems that it was loosing the communication and the chrismas tree was lightening
Fortunately it did not cost a lot compare to what i was told that i had to change by another mechanic guy .... between 6 and 10 K ......
Hope this can help you
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Good news for me , last week the dealership find the trouble of all those light while doing a complete inspection of my vehicule . Of what i understand there was a wire not well connected located just over my right leg in the dash board . From what i understand ,it seems that a previous mechanic guy had check with a scanner for the OBD codes and disconnect a wire nearby . Up to now the 3 lights are staying correctly . Maybe you could ask for an inspection of the wires around that place. It seems that it was loosing the communication and the chrismas tree was lightening
Fortunately it did not cost a lot compare to what i was told that i had to change by another mechanic guy .... between 6 and 10 K ......
Hope this can help you
.
Where did you get it done? Gravel?
Also, if the wire isn't connected well, then why do they most of the time function correctly, then suddenly all three come on?
Well the car was checked and repaired by Acura Moncton last week and my son is having it since that time and he is teh one confirming that everything is ok . I should go and get it in a couple weeks coz i'm in quebec city .
My son was telling me what he understood from the explanations that were given to him . Probabbly i will learn more when i will go and ask for more details when i 'll get the car . For now it,'s what i know : a wire not well connected inthe area over the right foot of the driver in the dash . It seems that the wire was a little bit loosed and was creating a ground that created then the miscommunication .
As as i get more info i will come back to you . Thanks
I was having the same problem : it was disappearing on restart for a while ... sometime 100 km othertime only 20 km .... You have probably something similar as problem ( a bad connection or communication) . We went to Acura Moncton coz they were offering a free check up with 122 items including a scanner check and a one year road hasard service.
I've been having this sporadic issue as well.... I've swapped batteries (from a new 550 CCA battery to a 600 CCA) and updated the positive terminal post with something much beefier as mine was broken, and yet I'm still having the issue. I can't seem to figure out exactly what is the trigger!!??? The other day I was driving with A/C off, and when I turned on the A/C, a short moment later the lights came on... now I've discovered that the condensor fan (that's the one on the passenger side) has a bad bearing and is starting to make noise. Waiting for the Dorman replacement now....
Anyway, after reading this update about a possible bad connection under the dash, I went and fired up my car and got down low to look around under the dash. I did find a white electrical clip underneath the left side of the steering column, just behind the kick panel (which I did not have to remove to see or touch, can see from driver door area) and when I first touched that connector I immediately got the CMBS/ACC/Airbag lights to come on at the same time. I unclipped it, and reclipped it and could not get the fault to come back in my driveway, but I will be driving around a bit later today with eager anticipation waiting to see if it does. I will report back here at some point... probably sooner than later if the fault returns..
I've been having this sporadic issue as well.... I've swapped batteries (from a new 550 CCA battery to a 600 CCA) and updated the positive terminal post with something much beefier as mine was broken, and yet I'm still having the issue. I can't seem to figure out exactly what is the trigger!!???
Exactly. i get it when I use the horn. Not everytime, but sometimes, especially if i honk longer term for some ..... talented drivers
So i used to think there isn't enough electricity to go around, and when something juice consuming goes on, the sensors get less juice it lights pop.
A weak current connection may just be it as you & Mr Bergeron said.
Anyway, after reading this update about a possible bad connection under the dash, I went and fired up my car and got down low to look around under the dash. I did find a white electrical clip underneath the left side of the steering column, just behind the kick panel (which I did not have to remove to see or touch, can see from driver door area) and when I first touched that connector I immediately got the CMBS/ACC/Airbag lights to come on at the same time. I unclipped it, and reclipped it and could not get the fault to come back in my driveway, but I will be driving around a bit later today with eager anticipation waiting to see if it does. I will report back here at some point... probably sooner than later if the fault returns..
!!! Would you be every so kind as to take a picture of that clip so I know what and where to look for?
Exactly. i get it when I use the horn. Not everytime, but sometimes, especially if i honk longer term for some ..... talented drivers
So i used to think there isn't enough electricity to go around, and when something juice consuming goes on, the sensors get less juice it lights pop.
A weak current connection may just be it as you & Mr Bergeron said.
!!! Would you be every so kind as to take a picture of that clip so I know what and where to look for?
Exactly my thinking previously... One time it happened in sync w/me turning on the A/C. One time it happened when the headlights flickered right after turning them on...,etc... Even after swapping batteries and putting one with with 600 CCA, I felt there may not be enough juice to go around.
When I took my son to school this morning (10 min drive) I got the christmas tree lights just as I'd started back home.. Parked the car, sat down to work... and checked my email. That's when I saw the update to this thread by MPBERGERON. I immediately when out to my car and did what I wrote before. Attached is a photo of the clip I touched (and which immediately made the warning lights come on) which is easily accessed by holding down the kick panel above the brake. After that "touch" that I hope made the lights appear, I shut off my car and undid and re-connected that switch.... In the photo, I'm holding down that panel with the orange pencil. You will need to bend that down a little bit to see this areal.
So --- UPDATE #1:
I just got home from a series of errands. For the first leg of this trip, the car was running a solid 1hr 20 mins, according to the trip computer. No CMBS/ACC/airbag lights, despite multiple attempts to turn A/C on and off, and honk the horn, and even play the music at ridiculous levels.... Car ran just fine, no issues... Normally in that amount of time, it has happened. Then, upon two more successive (but shorter) stops and restarts, still no lights.
I'll check back in regularly and let this thread know if the problem comes back or stays away.... at this point I'm not yet singing from the hilltops, but initial signs are encouraging.
I'm going to take a look. I put my hand down there while driving and it seems tight. Nothing pulls down. All closed up. Gonna go under the wheel later and check. but i may have to undo some clips or screws to take that thing down.
I'm going to take a look. I put my hand down there while driving and it seems tight. Nothing pulls down. All closed up. Gonna go under the wheel later and check. but i may have to undo some clips or screws to take that thing down.
You're going to have to get down on all fours and reach deeper into the footwell. You'll see what I mean...
This morning I drove my son to school again, no lights... But to be fair, I was only on the road about 20 minutes. I do plan on driving a lot this weekend, so we'll see what happens. Hopefully the issue really was just a shaky/oxidized contact in that clip!
You're going to have to get down on all fours and reach deeper into the footwell. You'll see what I mean...
This morning I drove my son to school again, no lights... But to be fair, I was only on the road about 20 minutes. I do plan on driving a lot this weekend, so we'll see what happens. Hopefully the issue really was just a shaky/oxidized contact in that clip!
I see what you mean. indeed further down there's a separate panel, flexible. Here's a visual of my setup down there. The white clip is like solid glued on or screwed on that dome thing you see, I can't move it. And it looks like someone has already cut that wire coming out of it off, then re-attached it. Note the black tape on the 2 wires leading into the white clip.
I will need more hands for light, but I intend to remove that tape, and make sure there's nothing loose in there.
Unless you tell me yours has that same tape on there too, which would still make me wonder why though.
EDIT: Actually, looking back at your picture, it seems you too have that black tape. Urs is 2010? I wonder if earlier years have it.
Think it may have been a prob. noticed and had all replaced or something?
I disconnected the white little part from the larger gray clip by depressing the clip release at the front top of the little white part. I don't think I even undid the connection all the way... just unclipped it, moved it around, then reclipped it. I have driven the car 5 different times since then and no more christmas tree lights. But, my longest trip thus far was only an hour and twenty minutes... Still, I would have expected it to happen at least once since then... Feeling more encouraged every time I drive and it doesn't happen!
Drove the RL all day today. Longest stint was over 3.5 hours in mixed conditions. No lights. At this point I'm starting to think my issue was an oxidized or loose contact in that clip. I'll report back if the problem reappears. Wiping my brow over the relief of not having to chase down a used VSA modulator as they seem to be near impossible to find. The dismantler yards do not seem to know that there are different versions of that part, and there was no way I was paying $1600 + for a new one!
Okay... so much for what I thought was my fix. Sorry for whatever false hope my posts may have given those experiencing this issue as well. My problem came back after about a week. No amount of plugging, unplugging or anything seems to work. I started looking deeper and managed to find an ABS/VSA modulator for ACC/CMBS car that came from a wrecked 2008 with only 19k miles on it and a 6 month warranty (parts only, of course). I couldn't have paid that $300 fast enough! I did have to ask an ebay seller of an RL ABS modulator to clarify if their part came from ACC/CMBS car and provided the EXACT part number of what I was looking for. Seller confirmed the part I was inquiring about (at cheaper price) was not from ACC car, but that they had one. We did the deal and I'm waiting on my package now.
When the problem resurfaced, I finally made the trip to my mechanic to have my codes read. There must have been all 8 years of this car's code history in the ECU. It was a mess. And when we finally cleared the codes the problem changed it's behavior and actually got worse. Incidentally, I have a brand spankin' new, mack-daddy 800 CCA battery in my car as well and my alternator is producing around 13.7v. Power and charge system are not an issue (but we did find codes that they were at one point).
My problem not intermittent any more, it's gotten way worse since clearing the codes. When I start engine, the little warning triangle light never turns off, and after about 1/4 mile of driving I now get the VSA error message, then CMBS message first. Every time, same timeframe. Then, at varying lengths of time following that...., I will get the ACC and the air bag error messages. Those can take as short as an extra minute to appear, or as long as an hour. In the time it takes longer for ACC/Airbag errors to appear, the cruise control does not work, the car just beeps at me when I try to set the cruise control. So, despite the ACC light not being on, the ACC doesn't work anyway...
Incidentally, the codes I'm getting, and which caused me to just go ahead and start parts shopping are:
103-1 CMBS brake control prohibition
85-1 Extensive driving on a rough or winding road or VSA system malfunction
92-1 VSA modulator control unit malfunction
Thank you for the update. In fact, i've been kicking that soft panel while driving and i get no lights. But, I turn on my rear defrost, and i get them, though not always. Same with the car horn.
I hope this modulator idea works. I am uncertain if a modulator has to be programmed by the dealer... I hope for your sake not.
But it does seem like a weak current issue. So every-time current is a bit low, and you add a horn or another component, these 3 lights show up.
My battery is one year old, it's a gel one, clocked 1050 CCA before installing, and the problem is still there. It's the current, but not necessarily the battery, rather 'where the current is being distributed'. And I'm guessing maybe that's a modulator... Coz I just changed my alternator, and I still get them.
Acura dealer is telling me my ACC module is the issue... Part #36700-SJA-A13, price is $1400. The kicker is that they can't guarantee me that is the problem, that is simply where they are stuck in the troubleshooting process. If I buy the part and it doesn't fix the issue, I'm stuck with a $1400 part and possibly more parts down the line. And if I buy the part from another dealer who does wholesale parts (can get for just under $900) then they won't warranty their labor. So, I'm just going to keep driving the car as it is and try to find a used one of these that is more reasonable. If they could promise me the part would fix the issue, that'd be better... but they can't say for sure.
FWIW, I called the dealer in Moncton, NB and spoke with the service manager, who was able to trace down the tech who worked on mpbergeron's car. The loose wire/connector they found was behind the DLC (or OBDII) connector and had chafed on a bracket causing the electrical short. Not a "known" issue, but rather more of a unique fluke.
Well, what are the odds that the same 3 lights come on due to that?
I'll check behind my connector and see.
I had an issue on a BMW years ago when i lived abroad. Was burning oil, white smoke shooting out of the exhaust and a gas tank is consumed in a day or two, doesn't run smooth but choppy, etc. Every mechanic wanted to re-build the engine
I went to a guy who studied at BMW institute in Germany. Left the car there for a few hours. He said "I will not lie to you, it took me 15 minutes. An electric wire. But I spent a lot of money to go study in Germany at BMW. I have to charge you 150$ (25 yrs ago). I said and you deserve it.
Well, what are the odds that the same 3 lights come on due to that?
I'll check behind my connector and see.
I had an issue on a BMW years ago when i lived abroad. Was burning oil, white smoke shooting out of the exhaust and a gas tank is consumed in a day or two, doesn't run smooth but choppy, etc. Every mechanic wanted to re-build the engine
I went to a guy who studied at BMW institute in Germany. Left the car there for a few hours. He said "I will not lie to you, it took me 15 minutes. An electric wire. But I spent a lot of money to go study in Germany at BMW. I have to charge you 150$ (25 yrs ago). I said and you deserve it.
Where to find guys like that nowadays?
I would have gladly paid that $150 too!
Okay... so after some back and forth with the Service Advisor and parts guy at Acura about the "non-refundable-if-it-doesn't-fix-my-issue" $1400 ACC module that represents the next step in their troubleshooting process, I managed to find one from LKQ for a whopping $105. With that said, the SA also sent me the troubleshooting guide from Acura for the ACC system, which I have attached. Maybe this will help someone down the line.
Once I told them I had a replacement module on its way, they told me to hold onto the loaner TLX they gave. Part gets here in another five days... More updates to follow eventually, hopefully with some finality at the end! LOL!
FWIW, they told me that their service manuals are sprinkled with "replace with known good part" comments throughout, with the mindset being that the car is "current model" and the dealter can pull a part from an inventory car (to test) rather than pop open a parts-bin sealed bag. Since we're talking about 2010 car in 2018 and the part numbers have all changed, that's not an issue.
(BTW, the loaner TLX they gave me is a nice car and all, but I really miss my RL with it's much smoother and more elegant lines. You can feel the upgrade in the chassis, even on an 8-year older car. The Leather of the RL vs. pleather in the TLX, the RL's SH-AWD driving dynamics are much more confidence inspiring compared to the TLX front wheel setup. The lane departure warning/correction feature, the back up/blind spot warning system, and the improved gas mileage are IMHO the only real things the TLX has going for it over the RL. The most annoying thing to me about the TLX is the hood redesign as there are little design elements where Acura has made a fitting space that for the engine noise dampening pad. These design elements stick up and are angled like little pyramids on the left and right side of the the hood, just in view. You can see them while driving and they constantly catch reflections that momentarily pull attention away from your eyes as you're driving. Very annoying. I would never buy that car for that reason alone. Also, my 3400 mile loaner has a ticking sound like it might have a noisy lifter. I feel like my 190k mile RL actually runs better than this car.)
I thought I'd chime in again since my Christmas tree of lights has reappeared (again after driving in very damp conditions) and will need a solution as well.
The clip in the photo is actually just the LED light for the footwell. Go out in the dark and un-clip / clip the connector and you'll see that. My 2011 has tape on the wires the same as the photo.
I believe that there's a connector that gets wet / damp somewhere and causes a current drain or mis-signal to the system. Looking at batteries now but not 100% confident that's the issue. Lights had come on at odd times like turning on the radio, or ABS kicking in while making a sharp turn on wet pavement.
FWIW - Acura did replace my ACC module under warranty 1 year ago but the lights were only gone for 6 months and when they re-appeared I was out of the warranty period. No warranty on on the new parts or labour since it was covered by Acura...
I got my RL back from Acura yesterday with my shiny new (not that I can tell) Takata airbags installed. They disassembled my dash to get at the ACC module and and uplugged and re-plugged everything in that area, but did not swap any parts. I thought had the proper ACC module lined up from LKQ parts, but they shipped me a bluetooth module instead, as they apparently had the part mis-inventoried. I left it with Acura that I'd give them their TLX back and we would resume troubleshooting once I acquire the proper module so they can go to the next step of the troubleshooting process.
Glad to have the RL back...
That said, I immediately proceeded to drive the car for four hours non-stop following pick up yesterday, plus a run this morning already... So far (knocking on wood) I don't have any lights showing up in the dash and my adaptive cruise works like like a champ....I'll report back if anything changes on that front. Fingers crossed!
This issue is still popping up for me and can happen several times in a few days or not be seen for a week. I found this link and video which describes my issue 100%. In the process of going through with the Acura dealer hoping it'll be covered through goodwill.
I'm happy to be back in my RL after it spent a few days at the dealer. It's truly refreshing to have the fantastic service department on my side helping sort these out of warranty issues.
The codes pulled were not a match to the SAS issue in the TSB linked above. Acura tech went through all off the modules and eliminated each one by one. It's funny how the service manual says to swap with "known good part" for a lot of the diagnostic procedures. Luckily, they happened to have an RL on the lot that was going out that day as a SOLD vehicle for him to check the PCM (Computer). Happy that it wasn't that!
Last piece of the puzzle still posting errors was the ACC module. They have removed the front cover piece from the radar and with an extended test drive no more errors occurred. Seeing as I love my RL the part has been ordered (approx $350 + tax here in Ontario) but it's on back order for about 6 weeks. Attached is a photo of the CMBS cover that was removed from the grill. There are many scratches from the previous owner who must have vigorously scrapped the ice from it many times after having CMBS Radar errors in the winter months. There's also a stain / oxidization look to the bottom edge as well. Part of me wonders whether moisture gets behind the clear acrylic and throws the system for a loop. I may take this cover to my local body shop and see what he'd charge to sand it up properly (light headlight restoration method) and bake a UV clear on it as well then i'd have a backup.
When the new part has arrived and installed, I will post back again. Cheers.
I just got back from a 2 week trip to Germany (where I didn't see a single Honda Legend or Acura RL) and in my absence my wife drove my car regularly. Issue has not resurfaced since I picked it up from the dealer about a month ago. I had also extensively polished my front sensor leading up to my dealership visit... I couldn't tell you if reprogramming my ACC module or cleaning the sensor, Acura dealer clearing the codes properly, or if simply disconnecting everything and reconnecting it fixed an oxidized contact to make this problem go away, but I'm glad it went away.
I wonder how many people experiencing this same issue might have swapped VSA Modulators that ended up being perfectly fine....?
At this point I'm feeling quite fortunate and happy to have such confidence in this fantastic car now. ACC and CMBS are working fine. Man, how I would have loved to open her up on the autobahn a few times... my little rented Ford Fiesta was tricked out with all the latest tech and proved to be the perfect get-around ride, but I really did miss my "old" RL.
Welcome back - and yes, taking my RL on the Autobahn would be an awesome experience, second only to the Nurburgring track.
My part is not in but I was updated that it should be here the 1st week of June. I've had no errors in my running around without the cover so maybe that's my fix. I did find a small spiderweb in the upper corner on the backside of the old cover which would absolutely collect moisture in very damp weather and possibly be causing sensor malfunctions. The new part will be installed no matter what as I never liked the look of this scratched up one.
Enjoy the summer months and I'll report back once I have it installed.
Two and a half months later, my issue seems to be fixed. I think it was ultimately the re-programming my ACC module that finally fixed my CMBS/ACC/VSA issues. I did not have to buy the new $1200-1800 part from the dealer...
A couple of months ago, and without going into details , I think the dealer messed up a sabotage attempt and my car had that triangle light, every light in the dash as well as it went into safe mode. I smiled and discussed a nice lawsuit coming up. So they had to do a good reprogramming.
That mysteriously seems to have solved my acc/cmbs and airbag lights coming on occasionally.
And yes, I'm afraid if a manufacturer makes a reliable car, that also doesn't sell too much, the dealer will mess with programming to have you keep coming back to replace sensors and parts unnecessarily - is my conclusion.
In Quebec the land of thieves and gangs? You can bet on it.
I'm happy to be back in my RL after it spent a few days at the dealer. It's truly refreshing to have the fantastic service department on my side helping sort these out of warranty issues.
The codes pulled were not a match to the SAS issue in the TSB linked above. Acura tech went through all off the modules and eliminated each one by one. It's funny how the service manual says to swap with "known good part" for a lot of the diagnostic procedures. Luckily, they happened to have an RL on the lot that was going out that day as a SOLD vehicle for him to check the PCM (Computer). Happy that it wasn't that!
Last piece of the puzzle still posting errors was the ACC module. They have removed the front cover piece from the radar and with an extended test drive no more errors occurred. Seeing as I love my RL the part has been ordered (approx $350 + tax here in Ontario) but it's on back order for about 6 weeks. Attached is a photo of the CMBS cover that was removed from the grill. There are many scratches from the previous owner who must have vigorously scrapped the ice from it many times after having CMBS Radar errors in the winter months. There's also a stain / oxidization look to the bottom edge as well. Part of me wonders whether moisture gets behind the clear acrylic and throws the system for a loop. I may take this cover to my local body shop and see what he'd charge to sand it up properly (light headlight restoration method) and bake a UV clear on it as well then i'd have a backup.
When the new part has arrived and installed, I will post back again. Cheers.
Originally Posted by theShaft
Welcome back - and yes, taking my RL on the Autobahn would be an awesome experience, second only to the Nurburgring track.
My part is not in but I was updated that it should be here the 1st week of June. I've had no errors in my running around without the cover so maybe that's my fix. I did find a small spiderweb in the upper corner on the backside of the old cover which would absolutely collect moisture in very damp weather and possibly be causing sensor malfunctions. The new part will be installed no matter what as I never liked the look of this scratched up one.
Enjoy the summer months and I'll report back once I have it installed.
Cheers!
Originally Posted by theShaft
The replacement cover was installed by the dealer on Saturday morning and so far so good.
Big shout out to the Performance Acura Group in North Mississauga for taking care of me so quickly once the part was in.
Fingers crossed that this will solve the "Christmas Tree" issue although we may have to waiting until the snow flies in late Fall.
Next thing to tackle is the Transmission which drives me nuts...
You were certainly onto something there. I came in to try and ask where the ACC module is located. I suppose it is the radar, that's the module?
The code it triggers for those three (ACC/CMBS/AirBag) is U0104. The ACC is the one that lights up first always.
Apps on the phone say that one cause of that is moisture on the connector of the module. That sounded so true as weather changes, and car washes, especially automatic ones, always triggered this.
Did you end up having lights again?
How much did that cover cost? And is it easy to take out?
I am considering taking it out, and doing a cleanup and film wrap around the connectors.
The poor first owner of the car was charged for a full module change in the past, not long before I bought it. I know it is not the module itself for sure. It's moisture.
Well, the cover was not the solution I had hoped it would be. The "Christmas Tree" of lights returned early November when the weather got colder again.
They have been on and off since then with the worst being a few weeks ago with 4 times in a single day. On one occasion, it happened right at startup?!?!?!?
Late last week they popped up as soon as I hit the button to put the window down.
Car is going back for service on Thursday and spending the day for some TLC. MY next steps are replacing the battery and looking at the grounding straps.
Part of me wonders whether the colder temperatures cause a shrinkage (yes Jerry, shrinkage) in the body somewhere and moisture then gets into something it shouldn't. Please let me know what connectors you end up wrapping so I can let me tech know to have a look as well.
02-22-2018, 09:07 AM
, I think the dealer messed up a sabotage attempt and my car had that triangle light, every light in the dash as well as it went into safe mode. I smiled and discussed a nice lawsuit coming up. So they had to do a good reprogramming.