I'm in the process of putting new struts on all my car, What's the best ones to get me back to the factory feeling of the road. I got 180,000 miles on my RL.

 

OEM would be like when the car is new. They are fairly expensive though. I recently ordered a set of KYB front struts but I haven't installed them yet. I am hoping they work out well. I started a thread about it in the suspension section: https://acurazine.com/forums/tires-w...shocks-918135/

 

I would go OEM. Parts for our cars are expensive and thats that really. I don't know many who ran KYB. I'd be interested in knowing how they work out.

 

^Who ran KYB on the RL?

 

Most aftermarket companies Model their shocks to Acura OEM specs.

I wouldnt use KYB, but it is an option!

 

My 'many' should read 'any' haha. I wouldn't use KYB either but I don't think there are any other options other than that or OEM.

 

I will post after I get the KYB's installed. I only paid $140 for the pair. If they suck I will get OEM in the spring time. I figured they have to be better than the stock struts with 113K miles on them.

 

Sorry if I sound like a broken record, but for anyone who has done this at the dealer, would you mind sharing how much the dealer charged for the complete job, parts and labor, and if it was for front or rear or both.

I was quoted a really high price, I just wanted to compare you can PM me the cost if you like. I would be grateful

 

I imagine at a dealer it would probably cost @500 per corner in the front with oem parts and labor. Maybe a little less in the rear but I'm not sure of that because you have to remove the rear seat to get access to the top bolts of the shock.

 

Rear seat is a breeze to take out. That should only add 15 min.


Makes a little difference.

Of course, I missed the "don't" so...

 

they arent called "stealerships" for fun.

 

The DIY posted is really helpful. This can be done with all hand tools obviously Electric and or air makes it that much easier and can be done in an afternoon easily. The hardest part for me is in the front separating the shock from the fork. Do they make a tool for this to make it easy?

 

have anyone installed coilovers on there RL instead of struts. If so which ones are good for the RL.

 

Tein Comfort Sport are the most often used coilovers in North America. Largus Harmonics are used frequently in Japan.

Other options that are nearly impossible to find are Tein Street Flex and Mugen.

 

I dont think Muegen has a coil set up, do they?!? Also I thought Tien had a new application of the street flex?

 

I think I will go with OEM struts, cause I want the original ride of the car.

 

I installed KYB on my car. I can't tell the difference but I also installed H&R springs at the same time. The car rides fine to me.

 

The Mugen setup is a coilover. It just doesn't fall into the definition of coilover that some people have because it isn't adjustable. I'm not privy to the Tein status, so I may very well be wrong about availability.

 

I'm gonna deal in hearsay for a moment:

My brother knew a guy who was extremely expert in automotive technology (sadly, he left us before his time). He was well familiar with the RL. He contended that RL owners should always use OEM parts, specifically including the struts, because they had sensors in them that figured into the calculations of the car's electronic nannies.

I'm open to opinions on this from those of you more knowledgeable than I.

 

I don't think the struts themselves have any sensors. However the AFS certainly relies on a vertical motion sensor (spring loaded potentiometer) in the wheel well. In addition, many members have expressed concern about the impacts of changing ride height on the CMBS and ACC systems, but we have to keep in mind that Acura offered a 3/4" drop as a factory accessory.

 

What are the chances that all four struts are bad as opposed to just the front? I honestly can't tell if the rears are bad from the ride, but I do get more noise from the front, that subtle "thud."

You think I should just replace the fronts? Anyone kniw if the fronts tend to go more in these or how I can tell if the rear struts are failing?

 

On Legend #1, my rear right failed first.

I don't think there is any rhyme or reason to which will have a catastrophic failure first other than pot holes or numerous flat tires on one corner.

 

I'll even add that our factory shock and springs is a coilover set up; it just isnt adjustable.

 

Did you use "shocks" to designate the fronts? (I always forget which one Acura calls which.) If so, yes. I agree.

 

We offer the KYB GR-2 struts on our website.
KYB GR-2 / Excel-G Gas Shocks - Excelerate Performance - Japanese and European Performance Specialists!!

These struts are designed to meet or exceed OE quality. They offer a comfortable ride with improved handling.

 

I ask because my mugen is not a coil setup. I was wondering if there was a mugen strut/shock and mugen coils

 

What makes you say it's not a coil setup? Was it the shock absorbers only?

 

Ok, maybe thats the gap in communication. The setup looks identical to OEM. Is that referred to as a coil setup?

 

That's why I mentioned the popular definition thing. A coilover by definition is a setup where the spring (coil) is placed over the shock. As I am sure you know, the RL front suspension is a coilover and the rear suspension is not. I think it makes it easiest for suppliers to call them coilovers to indicate that you are buying both springs and shock absorbers, and many "tuners" will argue that if it's not adjustable, it's not a coilover. It's just a technicality and not worth getting hung up on.

FWIW, I find it interesting that Honda calls the front absorbers "struts" (or they used to) and the rears "shocks". Now the online manual says shock absorber assembly for both. I don't know if there is a definitive difference between the two or not.

 

I think you've helped me make a decision even if it is hearsay. In deciding on what to do, I have been leaning towards getting OEM in the form of A-Spec on my 06 RL and I think that's the way I will go instead of aftermarket.

 

I had the KYB struts installed today. I only went for a quick ride but I can already tell they are better than the 115k miles original struts. I will post again after I get to put a few hundred miles on them. Hopefully they hold up for a few years. If not it only cost me $140 for the parts and $60 to have them installed.

 

Did you get all four put on or just the front struts??

 

Just the front. The back seem fine to me. I might change them in the future but I don't see the need right now.

 

007, pardon a dumb question: I always thought that pretty much any setup with the spring encircling the shock was a McPherson strut. But I also know our cars have the venerated double wishbones. So, what's the difference? The geometry of the pivoting members attached to the bottom of the spring/strut?

 

Roogs, food for thought: I replaced my OEM springs/struts (which weren't defective) with A-Spec for handling. They did do a better job of controlling vertical body motion in scary situations (e.g., braking and turning at the same time on a crowded highway), which is what I got them for. But they also exacted a substantial penalty in ride quality, which is noticeable to both driver and passengers. Frankly I feel they've compromised my luxury sedan experience, although our former moderator loved his set and disagrees. I'd think twice unless you really love to throw the car around. I found OEM a bit too soft, so the KYB's conceivably could be the Goldilocks choice here (even given my previous post about the sensors).

I'd be interested to hear from anyone on the board who runs the KYB's to hear what they think.

 

If anyone is curious what my local dealer quoted me for parts and labor to change out all four struts, here it is: $2,000.

The parts were close to $1,000 + 7 hours in labor to do it @ roughly $135 an hour. The front struts were $100 more expensive in total than the rears.

That price also includes a full alignment.

The service advisor, whom I've known since I purchased the car and kind of trust, says it is very labor intensive, as others have indicated.

Ouch.

But I'm still going to get it done through them.

 

^you're getting ass raped by your local "trusted" SA

 

Na, considering my past history with "independent" auto shops, I consider it well spent.

Prior to me purchasing this car, I use to skimp and go out and find the most "competent," non-dealer mechanic I could find. Pure nightmares and I ended up spending way more trying to fix their mistakes then had I just went to the dealer instead.

For all the trouble I went through in the past, and considering I've had zero problems with them over the past eight years on my car, that's piece of mind and money well spent.

 

I get the need for piece of mind, but You are paying about double, and that would bother me more. This is not a difficult job, can't really screw it up. It's a three hour job by a competent mechanic. Nothing hard about changing the fronts, bolt on the bottom, few bolts on top, spring compressor. Rear is only slowed by the need to pull the back seat, which is 15-20 mins at most. two bolts. I'd guess parts are about 500 or less. I haven't done it on my car with 102k miles, but when time comes I'll look to do it myself.

 

I have KYB's and they feel almost exactly like the OEM maybe just a little bit stiffer.