mitchkramez

I've noticed that going from reverse to drive has a delay engaging drive, it's not long and i can work with it, but I'm curious if it indicates a problem. I don't have any other issues with shifting, every other gear shifts just fine transmission/engine is smooth with no whining, and haven't experienced any of the other shift issues that i read in any of the other threads. Any thoughts?

More Info:
* 2005 RL - 116k Miles
* 90k service was done a while back, including tranny and diff flush

Thanks!

yue3759

i've noticed the same thing in my 06. every so often it would take longer than usual. i don't think it's anything to be concerned about and i've learned to just deal with it.

oo7spy

You are soon to be due for another tranny flush (30k mi). Has your timing belt been replaced? Not that it is the cause, but it is supposed to be done around 100k mi.

mitchkramez

Yeah, timing belt water pump all recently done. I'll keep that in mind that I'll need another tranny flush in 30k or so.

Thanks!

CFoote

My 2005 does the same thing, going from reverse to drive takes a good half second before it shifts into Drive. I've learned to live with it, I've tried changing the fluid and put a new torque converter on, no difference. No big deal, I'm just happy the transmission is functioning fine

Chris

wackjum

Could be motor mounts going bad.

oo7spy

^+1

mitchkramez

wackjum,
How would one check to see if the motor mounts were bad? And how does that affect shifting from R -> D? What would the symptoms be? I read clunking when turning right and giving it gas, but I havent' noticed that - I do have clunking up front over bumps in general, but from my understanding it's the stabilizer bar and the links/grommets...

oo7spy

A way to check motor mounts is to put blocks in front of the wheels, have someone shift from R to D, look for engine movement, and listen for any kind of "clunk" there should me minimal engine movement and noise. Honda mounts, transmission included, are notoriously bad.

Professor

Put it in reverse and wait thirty seconds while holding in both paddle shifters. If your radio resets to no presets, you have a 42A bus breaker with eminent failure. The breaker itself is $5233 alone.

There is a cheap, quick fix that most laugh at... disengage the SHAWD and run a few miles on rear wheels alone. Just clip the yellow and green wire coming from the intake manifold.

slawek65

:cra zy:yikes::e lectric: :wh at:

AgFrost

There is a hell of a lot that doesn't make sense to me in this post.

First, how can a transmission action affect the radio presets?
Second, how can a breaker cost $5233? It's a resetable circuit breaker, right?
Third, clipping a couple of wires on the intake manifold makes the car rear wheel drive? What exactly do the green and yellow wires do. Care to give specifics about these wires, like plug location and pictures? Advising someone to just cut a couple of nonspecific wires to disable half of your drive wheels is quite reckless.

notsureifserious.jpg

wackjum

There's quite a few motor mounts and a few transmission mounts as well. Hard to say with specifics how to check because it depends on which ones are failing.

The symptoms you describe sound like a bad motor mount to me, especially considering the age and mileage of the vehicle. Although with a recent service I would have thought the person working on the car would have inspected these.

The biggest giveaway is the pause and clunk when shifting from drive into reverse or reverse into drive. The car will also have some more hesitation when accelerating but you probably wouldn't be able to tell unless you drive an RL with good motor mounts back to back.

Professor

Lighten up y'all.. it's Monday for Godsakes.

mitchkramez

Professor - I went out and did that, and whole back end of my car exploded into big damn mess. so much for happy monday... I was supposed to keep the gas pedal floored right

Professor

The floored gas pedal was necessary while in reverse and your wife was standing behind looking for a shimmy.

Seriously, the motor mount issue might be a culprit, but I've babied my '05 due to the mal-reports of the Acura 5AT. When you do a tranny flush, see if there are any metal filings in the pan.

Also I went through 3 trannies in a 2003 TL during a 140K.... After 120K, (knock on wood), still running strong with first tranny in 2005RL. I hope the 2011 TSX produces like the RL.

AgFrost

Something about your post seemed sincere and naive. Now, I see who the naive one is!

mitchkramez

I'm wondering if that's the clunking I'm hearing... I do notice the clunk when I go over uneven bumps - but not so much when the bumps are even... interesting... i DO NOT hear any clunking when shifting from r->d or d-r though...

mitchkramez

Regarding the metal filings - I recently had it flushed and asked them specifically to look for anything like that - and they found nothing but dirty tranny fluid - so hopefully we're good there transmission shifts and drives amazing even with 116k miles. Had to take off from stop this weekend with the wife and kids, and my wife commented on how fast and smooth the acceleration was I'll have the motor mounts checked when I go in for an oil change next. Have to get the remote start fixed on the Pilot first

Jelousz

Is the trans service just a drain and fill or is there a filter to be changed . Also the RL transfer case service, what type of fluid should be used? Is it honda specific or can you just pick it up at a parts store?

mitchkramez

Jelousz,
I believe all the fluids are honda specific - but it maybe be available at the parts store, but I've only ever seen it from my dealer where I live. can't say I've ever looked at the other parts stores...

oo7spy

The tranny is fluid only, no filter, and uses ATF-Z1 or ATF-DW1. They will stop making Z1 I believe, so you may only be able to find DW1. Honda recomends a 3x3 drain and fill. Chas2 posted instructions here on how exactly to do it. I can find the link if you like.

When you say transfer case are you taking about the case midway between the tranny and rear diff? If so, you need, per the back of the manual, 80w-90 hypoid gear fluid, API service classified GL4 or GL5.

The rear diff takes either ATF-Z1 or Honda Dual Pump Fluid II. All 3 are drain and fill.

SSjTrunks112O

I definitely have the same issue on my '08 but it has very low miles. I only hear a click under the hood after I put my car into park and shut off the engine. Is that normal?

I also hear a weird intermittent high pitch sound when I first put it in drive in a parking lot without hitting the gas. Any ideas?

Thanks.