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I have 2013 Acura RDX. The AC is good, no leaks nothing (Checked by mechanic) - Passenger side gets perfect AC and Driver side has NO AC (just normal Air). In Winter it was getting Hot air.
I researched online and found people suggesting it had to do with Air-Blender door issue.
So, I removed the Blend Door/ Actuator-motor, but I do not see the Black/White damper. I was hoping I can remove the motor and just "manually" open the damper for it to remain on Full-AC for another 3 months.
Please see attached picture.
Not sure if I'm missing a part or does 2013 Acura RDX doesnot have that part (On youtube I see that 2010 acura RDX did have the Black/White damper which this motor controlled.)
Anyone with similar issue for Gen 2 Acura RDX. Blender Motor Front Blender Motor Back After Blender motor removal
Hey, I know this is semi-old, but I don't see a lot of solid answers for the second generation Acura RDXs.
I'm experiencing the same issue, so I plan to remove the driver's side air mix control motor this week to perform various tests in accordance to the "Driver's Air Mix Control Motor Test 780" instructions.
As an update, I was able to follow the steps outlined in the Driver's Air Mix Control Motor Test 780. I've placed screen shots of the steps below for reference:
Steps 1-3
Before removing the air mix control motor, I ran MAX HOT and MAX COOL and made sure that the actuator was moving and the gears were rotating as they should. Upon my inspection, the physical components looked fine, so I proceeded to remove the air mix control motor from the vehicle.
Step 4
Once the air mix control motor was removed, I measured the resistance between pins 1 and 3. The acceptable range is 4.2k and 7.8k ohms, Mine was measuring 5.66k ohms, so this looked okay.
Step 5-6
I reinstalled the air mix control motor.
Step 7
Using paper clips that I unraveled, I wedged the pokey ends into terminals 1 and 2 from the wiring harness. I turned my RDX on and the voltage readings were 0.0V in each scenario. Then I realized that in order to get a reading, the motor has to be moving. I asked my wife crank the RDX to MAX COOL. During this process, the voltage was 0.87V, which is close to the 1.0V recommendation. When we switched the RDX to MAX HEAT, the voltage was also 0.87V, which is quite below the recommended 4.0V measurement.
According to the instructions, if any of the resistance or voltage ratings are not within spec, it is recommended that the air mix control motor be replaced. Following this recommendation, I just ordered a new one from oemacuraparts.com. Once it arrives, I will install it and provide another update. Let's hope this is the issue!
Good work. I kinda/sorta have this problem with my RDX; with both heating and cooling, some days it seems fine -- or at least acceptable -- and some days it seems less than acceptable, particularly with the cooling. I look forward to seeing your results with replacing this motor.
I had this problem with my 2004 Accord Coupe, and while I think it was the blender door, it seems that it was simply stuck, as it somehow healed itself and worked from that point on. Then, the comfort of my passengers was paramount (usually one of my daughters), and I wasn't frantic to fix it. Now, I almost never have a passenger, and I am quite annoyed (and uncomfortable) for part of the year.
RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
"My mom is convinced I have narcissistic personality disorder, but I'm pretty sure I'm too awesome to have that." -- Adrienne Airhart
As an update, I was able to follow the steps outlined in the Driver's Air Mix Control Motor Test 780. I've placed screen shots of the steps below for reference:
Steps 1-3
Before removing the air mix control motor, I ran MAX HOT and MAX COOL and made sure that the actuator was moving and the gears were rotating as they should. Upon my inspection, the physical components looked fine, so I proceeded to remove the air mix control motor from the vehicle.
Step 4
Once the air mix control motor was removed, I measured the resistance between pins 1 and 3. The acceptable range is 4.2k and 7.8k ohms, Mine was measuring 5.66k ohms, so this looked okay.
Step 5-6
I reinstalled the air mix control motor.
Step 7
Using paper clips that I unraveled, I wedged the pokey ends into terminals 1 and 2 from the wiring harness. I turned my RDX on and the voltage readings were 0.0V in each scenario. Then I realized that in order to get a reading, the motor has to be moving. I asked my wife crank the RDX to MAX COOL. During this process, the voltage was 0.87V, which is close to the 1.0V recommendation. When we switched the RDX to MAX HEAT, the voltage was also 0.87V, which is quite below the recommended 4.0V measurement.
According to the instructions, if any of the resistance or voltage ratings are not within spec, it is recommended that the air mix control motor be replaced. Following this recommendation, I just ordered a new one from oemacuraparts.com. Once it arrives, I will install it and provide another update. Let's hope this is the issue!
I'm having the same issue with my 2014 RDX AWD Tech pack. Driver's side I get a warm air and no AC. Passenger side, Artic cold.
I haven't tested the voltage yet, I don't own a voltage tester, but you did mention the actuator actually moved when going from cold to/from hot temp, mine does too. I see the gears turn but I don't get any cold air on just the driver's side.
did you get this resolved by swapping the actuator? if so, what part number was it. I know this is kinda of an old post but worth a shot. Dealer ran me a quote of $800+/- which I won't pay.
Test 780
So, I installed the driver's side air mix controller last night and it did NOT resolve my issues. It was a bit cooler on my drive into the office this morning (around 72 degrees), but I did notice the passenger side was still noticeablycooler. I'll check again on my drive home this evening.
Test 781
According to the recommendations, the next step would be to test and replace the passenger side air mix controller assembly (Acura 79170-T0A-A41). If that doesn't work....then onto test 783.
Test 783
According to the recommendations, the final step would be to test and replace the recirculation control motor. (Acura 79350-TRO0A01).
Test 780
So, I installed the driver's side air mix controller last night and it did NOT resolve my issues. It was a bit cooler on my drive into the office this morning (around 72 degrees), but I did notice the passenger side was still noticeablycooler. I'll check again on my drive home this evening.
Dang. That makes some sense, but I had some hope that it would solve the problem (which I have in my 2014 Tech, and had in my 2004 Honda Accord EX 6/6. Ah, well.
RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
"When people ask you what happened here, tell them the North remembers. Tell them Winter came for House Frey." -- Arya Stark
Last edited by Kelsen; 08-09-2023 at 11:21 AM.
Reason: Typo
Dang. That makes some sense, but I had some hope that it would solve the problem (which I have in my 2014 Tech, and had in my 2004 Honda Accord EX 6/6. Ah, well.
RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
"When people ask you what happened here, tell them the North remembers. Tell them Winter came for House Frey." -- Arya Stark
Thank you for testing, I also have a 2014 tech rdx, same issue, no ac coming from driver's side, but artic cold from passenger side. One thing I noticed though, when it gets over 80 or more or humid, the air gets hotter on the driver's side. in the morning, the air is cooler but not as cold as the passenger's side. I might just take this to the dealer at this point.
If you do go that route, please let us all know how it goes and/or what they say. I would guess they're going to start with these exact same tests as well.
If you do go that route, please let us all know how it goes and/or what they say. I would guess they're going to start with these exact same tests as well.
Okay, I just purchased the recirculation control motor as well as the passenger side air mix controller assembly. It was around $100. If replacing these doesn't work, it's off to the dealership.
I have the same issue with my 2015 RDX, warm air on driver side, cold air on passenger side.
After I replace the AC blender door on the driver side, it didn't fix the problem.
After more research, someone suggest it maybe just need to top up the refrigerant.
Make sure you don't over fill it ( it will blow warm/hot air and will damage your compressor).
And it worked.
@wusty23jd damn it - My appointment was pushed back to 8/17. I will report after my visit... @kchoy interesting, I did read about the refrigerant being the problem, but I wasn't buying since I have cold artic air coming from one side and not the other. is there a video or manual that you could share to check coolant/refrigerant? I have heard/read if you do it incorrectly it could cost you an arm and a leg to repair.
@javrdx
below is the link to the explanation why driver side is warm and passenger side is cold, not sure it will fix your problem but it fixed mine.
And worth a trying, very simple process to add refrigeant/
@javrdx
below is the link to the explanation why driver side is warm and passenger side is cold, not sure it will fix your problem but it fixed mine.
And worth a trying, very simple process to add refrigeant/
My AC is working again. this is what I did.
- watched both videos suggested by @kchoy both will provide some insight to static pressure and low pressure
- went to a napa auto part and bought an "avalanche refrigerant with digital display" https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCBBD232D
there are a choices on what product you could go with but I just went with the high-end one, at $52 with a digital gauge. you can even buy the "freon" cans and the gauge separately.
- I followed the can instructions and took a reading when the AC was engaged (this is your LOW pressure) this reading should be matched to the CAN graph. I noticed my low pressure was a bit low 30psi for an ambient temperature of 93F. my low pressure psi should be around 45-55psi.
-so i started the recharge process, this took longer than anticipated as it took probably more than 50% of the can to get it to 48psi for low pressure to get there. at this point I became nervous and felt like I was pumping freon for a long while so I stopped.
- the inside of the vehicle felt nice in a 93F day. both clips that come witht he can, to be installed on the vents, they changed colors to blue and green. according to the can, if these change to green and blue, you are done.
- I followed the steps on the second video provided by @kchoy this one explains static pressure. my static pressure got to 68psi, but the video recommended a 104psi for a 90F ambient temp. my result points to undercharge.
I didn't add any more freon even if the static pressure showed at 68psi. yes it sounds like I am way undercharged still but remember I said that during the charging step, I consumed maybe a bit more of 50% of the bottle already. the fact that I tested all day yesterday, and I have good AC now, I will leave it at its current charge. in case i see the issue return, i will keep on recharging. I dont want to even come close to overcharging. which brings my next question, do I have a leak? car is 2014, I am the only owner, and this issue just started earlier this year.
06-24-2021, 05:56 PM
2013 RDX - AC Blender door issue
