inspiron0937

Hey all,
So I've decided to go for a new clutch, since the original is basically worn out. Looking at the Clutchmasters FX100 and Clutchmasters FX300, does anyone know if there is any difference between the 2 other than the holding power, do they engage or drive much differently?

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

If you are not planing on going with boost or some crazy build stick with oem. Its cheaper and im sure it will last longer. Also do not forget about break in period. 750-1000miles

inspiron0937

StreetKA, I hear you one the oem price point. My reasoning for the clutchmasters kit is that I also wanted the lightweight aluminum flywheel, so it makes more sense for me to just get the whole kit together rather than an oem clutch and an aftermarket flywheel. But now that you bring up the life lasting factor, I'm curious what is the durability of the clutchmasters to the oem, alot worse?

inspiron0937

Btw, seems like we're in the same area..I'm also in cnj. Do you happen to ever drive around sayreville? I think I've seen your car, but I might be wrong, the exhaust looked identical.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

Im in linden area but i drive around perthamboy rather than sayervile but yes. What color do you have wheels etc ? If you want more grip just with p2r disc remover dampner do the slave mod. It will be cheaper. it depends how your clutch is worn youay be able to reuse flywheel just get it resurfaced that would save some extra money. If you want light flywheel just because you want your engine to rev faster go for light crank pulley. Whats your mods? Once i come back from work i'll post some usefull links.

SPoolinspOON

iTrader: (5)

300whp/280tq 30k miles OEM clutch

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

all options you have :

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...utch+option+CL

Removal of Slave Cylinder checkvalve:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/113-removal-slave-cylinder-check-valve-734300/

also civicdrivr has some experience on 3stage clutch so you can ask him but im sure he will chime in soon :P

inspiron0937

thanks for the links. After digging through what seems like every post on acurazine I've come to a conclusion that my clutch might be ok actually.

Initially I thought my its wearing down because it it grabbing really high, but it seems thats how its made from the factory I guess. Which sucks but at least the clutch wouldn't be worn down. I have 70k on my car, but don't know the habits of the previous owner obviously.

My concerns were the high engagement along with some grinds into 2nd and not being able to shift into 1st gear from a stop without a double take quite often, but after all the reading Im gonna change my fluid to amsoil or the gm synchromesh and see how that helps. Already switched over to the new acura fluid but not much improvement. Any thoughts or experience with this?

My car is anthracite, perfomance wise everything stock. Got this car last month so I still want to finish up with all the maintenance and the likes before I have some fun. Did do the tl shifter, debadge, lip spoiler, some ddm hids (right invertor blew).

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

We should meet up someday
As for clutch high engagment is normal. I dont like it but what can i do

Go for gm synchromesh as for fluid ppl say that its a huge improvement.

And post you damn picture. Are you lowered? I didnt see any anthracite cl in my area. I know there is red cl 6mt red on 08 tl type s rims in a elizabeth/linden area

inspiron0937

Sounds good man, curious to see how much quicker you are. Hopefully this tranny fluid will help the shifts, so annoying. Where did you dyno your car? I love those tl type-s rims, but on our car they are just not right.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

hit me up i have some free time tomorrow if you want

thats where i get my car dynoed
http://wirednj.com/

i think tl type s look good but only on black and red CL with good drop... i dont have picture now but i think they look good.

here is your color but car need moar drop

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

sounds like your clutch is fine to me, no need to do anything.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

CM stage 1 has about the same feel as an OEM clutch. The stage 3 is much stiffer and less forgiving. A few people have had their stage 3 clutch start to slip around 2,000 miles. Ive had mine for the past 25,000 miles with no issues. Im guessing its all in the break-in, but if you dont think you can take it easy for ~2k miles (which is what I did as I was breaking in a motor at the same time) then dont get the stage 3.

I love my clutch, but it takes time to get used to. Since it is carbon-kevlar, you cant ride it out like you would a normal clutch. It will glaze and unlike a normal clutch, you can't drive easy on it for awhile to un-glaze it. Once its glazed, its glazed.

If you really want a lightweight flywheel (I dont blame you), buy an AASCO flywheel. Just count the teeth on the ring gear when you get it and make sure it matches OEM. Use an OEM pressure plate and P2Rs disc. It may come out to around the same price as the CM kit, but the drivability will be better.

Another option is to weld the OEM flywheel, thus making it one piece. It wont be light, but it wont be as intrusive as the stock dual mass flywheel is.

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

welding stock flywheel sounds good to me thats an idea

OperationDarkie

iTrader: (1)

LOL that's my ride, man I got rid of those wheels for some A specs.

inspiron0937

yea i think those tl-s wheels are better suited for a sedan, A-specs probably look real nice though. sweet car..looks just like mine, you need some tints though!

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

I hope that you dont mind that ?

inspiron0937

Hey civicdr, after reading your post I definitely won't be going for the stage 3, and most likely for now I'm gonna hold off on touching the clutch/flywheel in general. I wanna get my shifting smooth and precise first. Damn knob jiggles a little, I ordered those corsport aluminum bushings, can't wait to see the difference!

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

Get an heavy 400g skunk2 knob or voodoo and pspec(?) shifter. Bushing are good too.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Bushings are a great mod. Change the tranny fluid out too if the shifts feel a bit notchy. GM synchro-mesh is good, Pennzoil synchro-mesh is the same formulation IIRC. Im running the Pennzoil stuff and its nice and smooth, even though my 1-2 synchros are shot.

Definitely look into a heavier knob for firmer shifts and also look into a short shifter. Im running the P-Spec shifter along with an S2k Ti knob and its very quick and precise. I love it.

Another must is removing the clutch dampening device. Its located on the driver side frame rail, theres a hard line coming from the clutch master cylinder going to it and then a rubber line going from it to the tranny. Remove the CDD and install a SS braided line in place of the rubber one and you will have much more feel if the clutch. There is also a check valve in the slave cylinder that you should remove as well. Its similar to the CDD as it slows the fluid return slightly to slow down engagement. If you go with any upgraded clutch, you need to remove both the CDD and the check valve.

inspiron0937

thanks, after the bushings my next plan of attack will be the amsoil MTF, and then the pspec shifter. How do you know your synchros are shot, like I mentioned when I'm stopped and try to put it into 1st I have to do it twice sometimes but on a roll it's always fine. Any ideas? I'm pretty sure I'll get the shifts smoother and precise with the fluid and bushings, but the whole shift into 1st gear issue seems like something unrelated...any ideas?

StreetKA

iTrader: (8)

I know exactly what are you talking about. One question? Did you miss shift from 1st to 2nd ? If yes it takes few days sometimes couple hours to let the synchro bed in again. It happened to me twice. Just take it easy for a while should be back to normal. From what i read synchromesh will best choice for our tranny. Im not sayin that amsoil is bad but our tranny will work better on gm

inspiron0937

hey maybe you are right, cuz like a week or 2 ago it was happening almost on every stop but now it's less frequent. I don't think I ever missed shift, but I did shift 1-3 quite a few times until I read that it might not be good for our cars so I stopped doing that. I dunno, let's see what happens. Still deciding on amsoil vs. gm

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

My synchros are shot because it grinds on high rpm 1-2 shifts. I end up shifting around 5500rpms into second to get around it. It doesnt bother me though because if Im getting on it enough to rev out all of first, Im spinning the tires. So its kind of pointless to rev past 5500rpms anyway. It just sucks that I catch second below the VTEC crossover.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I have the same exact problem. Only misshifted from 1st to 2nd before a few times. I do the same thing and shift out of first before going above 6k.